T^^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


1.1 


WUl    125 

^  ^   12.2 

S  114   ■■ 

!g  laa  12.0 


f^ 


Fhotographic 

^Sciences 

Carporation 


11  WMT  MAIN  tTIIIT 
WMITIR.NY.  UIM 

(7U)i7a-4soa 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Inttituta  for  Hittorloal  MIororaproduotions  /  Inatitut  Canadian  da  miororaproductlona  hiatoriquaa 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notm/Notas  techniques  at  bibliographiquas 


Tha  institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Feetures  of  this 
copy  which  mey  be  bibliogrephicaily  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  imeges  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 

D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 

Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagie 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pelliculAe 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  meps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrationa  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relie  avee  d'autras  dooumants 

Tight  binding  may  causa  shadovirs  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  iiure  serrie  peut  eauaar  da  i'ombra  ot*  da  la 
distorslon  la  long  da  la  marga  intiriaura 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  sa  peut  que  oartainaa  pages  blanches  ajoutias 
lors  d'une  rastaiiratlon  apparalasant  dana  la  taxta, 
mats,  lorsqua  eala  Atait  possible,  oas  pagaa  n'ont 
pas  *  *  filmAas. 

Additional  eommants:/ 
Commantairas  supplAmantairat; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  le  meiileur  exemplaire 
qu'il  iui  a  tt^  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sent  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite.  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thoda  normale  de  fiimage 
sont  indiquis  ci-dessous. 


r~n   Coloured  pagaa/ 


D 


Pagaa  da  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restauries  et/ou  pellicuiies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxe< 
Pagan  dicolorias,  tachaties  ou  piqu*es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditachias 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quallt*  inigaia  da  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  matarii 
Comprand  du  materiel  suppi^mantaira 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 


|~~1  Pages  damaged/ 

|~n  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~T|  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

|~n  Pages  detached/ 

FT]  Showthrough/ 

r~n  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

nn  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

rn  Only  edition  available/ 


T 
t( 


T 

P 

o 
fi 


0 
b 
th 
si 

f 
si 

01 


Pages  wholly  or  portially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc..  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  poges  totaiement  ou  partieilement 
obscuroies  par  un  fauiilet  d'errata.  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  it*  filmies  *  nouveau  de  fapon  * 
obtanir  la  mailleure  image  possible. 


Tl 
s» 
Tl 
w 

M 
dl 
an 
bi 
ri| 
rai 
mi 


This  item  is  filmed  at  tha  taduotion  ratio  ohaokad  below/ 

Ca  document  est  film*  au  taux  da  riduotion  indlqu*  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  1IX  22X 


MX 


30X 


I 


12X 


1IX 


aox 


24X 


2tX 


32X 


•  • 


Th«  copy  film«d  hare  hat  b««n  roproducad  thanka 
to  tha  ganaroaity  of: 

National  Library  of  Canada 


L'axamplaira  f  ilmA  f  ut  raproduit  grica  A  la 
ginAroaitA  da: 

BibliothAqua  nationala  du  Canada 


Tha  imagaa  appearing  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
poaaibia  conaidaring  tha  condition  and  lagibiiity 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  apacificationa. 


Laa  imagaa  auivantaa  ont  4t4  raproduitaa  avac  la 
plua  grand  aoin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  I'axampialra  film*,  at  an 
conformity  avac  (as  conditiona  du  contrat  da 
filmaga. 


Original  copiaa  in  printad  papar  covara  ara  filmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impras- 
aion,  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  original  copiaa  ara  filmad  baginning  on  tha 
f  irat  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa- 
aion,  and  anding  on  tha  laat  paga  with  a  printad 
or  illuatratad  Impraaalon. 


Laa  axamplairaa  originaux  dont  la  couvartura  an 
papiar  aat  ImprimAa  iont  filmte  an  commandant 
par  la  pramiar  plat  at  an  tarminant  soit  par  la 
darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'impraaaion  ou  d'llluatration.  soit  par  la  sacond 
plat,  aalon  la  eaa.  Tous  laa  autras  axamplairas 
originaux  aont  filmAa  an  commanfant  par  la 
pramlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'impraaaion  ou  d'illustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
la  darniAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talla 
amprainta. 


Tha  last  racordad  frama  on  aach  microficha 
shall  contain  tha  aymbol  -^  (moaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  tha  aymbol  y  (moaning  "END"), 
whiohavar  appliaa. 


Un  daa  aymbolaa  suivanta  apparaltra  sur  la 
darnlAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microficha.  aalon  la 
caa:  la  aymbola  «►  signifia  "A  8UIVRE".  la 
aymbola  ▼  signifia  "FIN". 


Mapa,  plataa.  charts,  ate,  may  ba  filmad  at 
diffarant  raduction  ratios.  Thoaa  too  larga  to  ba 
antiraly  includad  in  ona  axpoaura  ara  filmad 
baginning  in  tha  uppar  laft  hand  cornar,  laft  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  framas  aa 
raquirad.  Tha  following  diagrams  illustrata  tha 
mathod: 


Las  cartaa,  planohas.  tablaaux,  ate,  pauvant  Atra 
fllmte  i  daa  taux  da  rMuotlon  diff Aranta. 
Lorsqua  la  documant  aat  trop  grand  pour  Atra 
raproduit  an  un  aaul  clichA,  il  aat  f limA  A  partir 
da  I'angla  aupAriaur  gaucha,  da  gaucha  A  droita, 
at  da  haut  an  baa.  an  pranant  la  nombra 
d'imagaa  nAcassaira.  Laa  diagrammas  suivanta 
illustrant  la  mAthoda. 


i 

2 

3 

f 

• 

3 

4 

• 

6 

VALUABLE    WORKS 

PoBuniD  BY  J.  &  J.  HARPER,  89  Curr-^raiBT, 
New-York. 


THE  HISTORY  OF  MODERN  EUROPE,  from  the 

RiM  of  tbe  Modern  Kingdoim  to  the  prasent  Period.  Bv  William  Rumill, 
LL,D.,  and  William  Jonir,  Eiq.  With  AnnoMtiooR,  by  an  American.  !■ 
3  mil.  five. 

THE  HISTORICAL  WORKS  OF  THE  REV.  WIL- 

LIAM  ROBERTSON,  D.D.:  oomi)rialn|  hie  HISTORY  OF  AMERICA ; 
CHARLES  V. ;  ISCOTLAND,  and  INDIA.    In  3  vola.  8to.    With  Platea. 

GIBBON'S  HISTORY  OP  THE  DECLINE  AND 

FALL  OF  THE  ROMAN  EMPIRE.    In  4  vola.  6vo.    With Mapa and  Piatca. 

ENGLISH  SYNONYMES,  with  copious  lUustrations 

and  ExplanaUona,  drawn  Ooin  the  b«Ht  Wrltera.  Uy  Ghorub  CKAaaa,  M. A. 
•to. 

LIFE  OF  LORD  BYRON.    By  Thomas  Moore,  Esq. 

In  9  vola.  8vo.    With  a  Portrait. 

THE  BOOK  OF  NATURE;  being  a  popular  lUus- 

tratlon  or  ilio  guneral  Laws  and  Phenomrna  of  Creation,  «c.  By  John 
Mason  Oook,  M.I),  uinl  P.R.8.    8vo.    With  Ilia  Life. 

HOOPER'S  MEDICAL  DKri'IONARY.    From  the 

lut  London  I^UIiiiiii.    With  Addiiiona,  by  Samici.  Akicrlt,  M.D.    8to. 

COOPKU'S  SURGICAL  DICTIONARY.    In  3  vols. 

New  and  lm|irovAd  Edition.    8vo. 

GOOD'S  (Dr.  .Iohn  Mason)  STUDY  OF  MEDICINE. 

la  I  vola,  Hvo.    A  nuw  Eiliiiuii.    Wlih  Addition*,  by  Hamubl  C'uopaa. 

DOMKSTIi?  DUTIKS;  or  Instructions  to  Married 

i4adleB.    liy  Mra,  Pai.kkr.    laino. 

WORKS   OF  THE  REV.   ROBERT  HALL,  with 

llemoira  ol'  III*  I.llb,  by  UHaaoHy  nnd  Ftmrici'.  I'uniplete  ediilon.  lo  S 
voia,  tlvo.    i*(irtrait. 

A  MEMOIR  OF  THE  LIFE  OF  WILLIAM  LIV- 

INOSTUN,  LI..U,  Mvuiber  of  ConKfeia  in  1774,  I77»,  and  1770 :  Delfnio  lo 
the  Feilernl  rmivriiilun  In  1787;  and  (Invnnior  of  the  Slate  of  New-Jaraay 
ftom  1770  to  l7Utl.    liy  TiiKiionaa  HionitwiLN,  Jr.     8vo,    Portrait. 

THE  LIKK  OF  .IOHN  JAY,  with  Selections  from  his 

CorraapondtiiiRe  mid  MiacHllaneoua  Paiwra.  By  hia  aon  Wm,  Jay.  In  %  vola. 
•*o.    Poriiaii. 

THE  PERCY  ANECDOTES.    Revised  edition.    To 

which  la  addud,  a  VHlnntile  Colleotton  of  American  Anaedolaa,  original  aM 
aalaated,    IVtriralia.    8vo, 

POLYiNKSUN  RESEARCHES,  during  a  Resid«noa 

•r  llihi  Yeara  In  ilm  Society  and  Sandwich  lelanda,  By  Willuh  lun. 
ta«v«la.     191110.    I'latea, 

THE  COMPLETE  WORKS  OF   MARIA  EDGI- 
WfMTH.    Ik  9  vola.    liiino.    With  ■ngravini*. 

KEITH  ON  THE  EVIDBNCB  OF  PROPHECY 

riwiUMlMtLoudm  Edition.   llMi 


I  WORKS  PVBLUHU)  BY  J.  *  J.   HARTIIU 

THE  HISTORY  OF  THE  JEWS,  from  the  earUMt 

PwM  10  tiM  proMiit  Time.  By  On  Bar.  H.  H.  Miliiaii.  In  t  toll.  18«m. 
WUIiMapt. 

THE  LIFE  OF  NAPOLEON  BONAPARTE.    By 

J.  O.  LociHABT,  Bm|.    With  oopiwrplate  •ngraTinga.    t  voli.  18mo. 

LIFE  OF  NELSON.    By  R.  Southiy,  Esq.    Portrait. 

THE  LIFE  OF  ALEXANDER  THE  GREAT.    By 

III*  BaT.  J.  Willi  AMI.    Wilhamap.    ISmo. 

NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  INSECTS.  Illustrated 
br  aumerous  Eiigravinn-    ISmo. 

THE  LIFE  OF  LORD  BYRON.  By  John  Galt,  Esq. 
Itmo. 

THE  LIFE  OF  MOHAMMED.  By  the  Rev.  O. 
Bma,  kM.    With  a  plaie.    18mo. 

LETTERS    ON    DKMONOLOGY  AND    WITCH- 

OBAFT.    By  Sir  Waltir  Scdtt,  Bart.    18mo.    With  an  BngraTtng. 

HISTORY  OF  THE  BIBLE.    By  the  Rev.  G.  R. 

Oliio.    In  8  vol*.  18ino.    With  tnap*  of  Paleitliie,  &o. 

NARRATIVE  OF  DISCOVKRY  AND  ADVEN- 
TURE IN  THB  POLAR  SEAS  ANU  REGIONS.  With  Illuctrallona  of 
Ihalr  CllmMe,  GeoloRy,  and  Natural  Illatory ;  and  an  Accunnt  of  tha  Whalt- 
•■hery.  By  Profbaaor  I.imi.ih,  Prolbuoi  Jamkion, and  Heau  Murrav,  Kw). 
WlUiMaiM,  fto.    IDino, 

LIFE  AND  TIMES  OF  GEORGE  IV.,  with  Aneo- 

Maa  or  Olatlngulahed  Pnraona  of  ihn  last  Fifty  Years.  By  the  Rav.  GBoaog 
OaoLV.    With  a  portrait.    IHino.    Nxw  ami  Improved  edition 

NARRATIVE  OF  ADVKNTURE   AND    DISCOV- 

BRY  IN  APRIOA,  Ooin  the  earllftat  AKen  to  the  proaent  Time.  With  IUa»- 
traUona  of  iho  Uenlugy,  MliioraloRy,  and  /oology.  Bv  ProHeaaor  .'akhion, 
Jamir  Wilndn,  e:si|.,  and  liimu  Mlurav,  Eaq,  With  a  map  and  wood 
lufravlnga.    IHmo, 

LIVES  OF  EMINENT  PAINTERS  AND  SCULP- 

TORS.    By  Allan  Ci  nniniiham,  Kaq.    In  9  vola.  18mo.    With  portralla. 

HISTORY  OF  CHIVALRY  AND  THE  CRUSADES. 

»y  O.  P.  R.  Jamkm,  Eaq.    l8nio.    With  a  plate. 

LIFE  OF  MARY  QUE KN  OV  SCOTS.    By  HiNsr 

ttLABiroHD  Bill.    In  t  vola.  IHniu.    With  a  Portrait. 

VIEW   OF  ANCIENT  AND  MODERN    EGYPT; 

wllh  an  Outline  ol  lu  Natural  lllitory.    By  Rav.  M.  RuiiBLL,  LL.D.    WllH 

iDiravlnga.  ISmo. 

FESTIVALS,  GAMES,  AND  AMUSEMENTS,  An- 

Mat  and  Modern.    By  IIohatio  Smith,  Raq.    ISino.    Wllh  Bngravlnia. 

HISTORY  OF  POLAND,  from  the  earliest  Period 
la  tha  preaeni  Time.  By  Jambi  Flbtohbr,  Baq.  Wltk  a  Partralt  af  !•» 
nvBKo.    IBmo. 

LIFE  OV  GIR  ISAAC  NEWTON.  By  Datid  Bbbws- 
taSiLLD.   WUharanrait.   Itaw 


I  earliMt 

rt»B.l9m. 

rE.    By 

Imo. 

Portrait. 
AT.    By 

llusirated 

f  ALT,  Esq. 

Rev.  O. 

WITCH- 

(rtTtng. 

ev.  O.  R> 

ADVEN- 

usiratloM  or 
of  iha  Whtto- 
AUKRAY,  B«H- 

^ith  Aneo- 
Rev.  QBoaai 

1  DISCOV- 

.    WUhlUH*- 

«0r   .'AMBiOII, 

«p  tnd  wood 

SCULP- 

h  poriralu. 

USADES. 

By  HiMftv 

EGYPT J 

LL.D.    WUH 

JTS,  An- 

Bnirtvlnft. 

^st  Period 

rtnti  or  Kt» 

\iD  Buwt- 


V 


WORKS   PUBLIIHEO   BY  J.   *  J.  HARPER. 


9 


By  M.  RuMiLLf  LL.D. 
JOSEPHINE. 


HISTORY  OF  PALESTINE. 
Mopo  and  Eniravlnfo.    ISnio 

MEMOIRS    OF    THE    EMPRESS 

By  J.  8.  Mkmei,  LL.D.    ISmo.    WUb  a  Portrait. 

COURT  AND  CAMP  OF  BONAPARTE.  With  & 

Foitralt  of  Talleyrand.    18ino. 

LIVES  AND  VOYAGES  of  DRAKE,  CAVENDISH, 

AND  DAMPIER :  Incliidlnn  an  Introductory  View  of  the  earlier  DiaooTeriea 
in  the  South  Sea :  and  the  Illatory  of  the  Bucanlera.  With  three  Portraita. 
18mo. 

JOURNAL  OF  AN  EXPEDITION  to  explore  the 

Courae  and  Tcrniinatlon  of  the  NIGER ;  with  a  Narrative  of  a  Voyage  down 
■     -  -  -    -  liiuatrated 


By  RicHAKD  and  John  Landkr. 
3  vols.    IBmo. 


that  River  to  lt»Terminniion. 
with  Engravings  and  Maps. 

INQUIRIES  CONCERNING  THE  INTELLEC- 
TUAL POWEKS,  AND  Tin;  INVESTIQATION  OF  TRUTH.  By  Jobk 
AaaRcnoMBit,  MD.  K.R.S.    ISino. 

THE    PHILOSOPHY   OF  THE    MORAL   FEEL- 

INGS.    By  John  Adkrciiombib,  M.D.,  Ac.    ISnio. 

MEMOIRS  OF  CELEBRATED   FEMALE  SOVE- 

RBIGNS.    By  Mra.  Jamkron.    9  voli.    16mo. 

THE  LIVES  OF  CELEBRATED  TRAVELLERS. 

By  J.  A.  8r.  John.    3  voU.  l8mo. 

LIFE  OF  FREDEKIC  THE  SECOND.    By  Lord 

DovKR.    In  3  vols,    IHmo.    Portrait. 

SKETCHES   FROM  VENETIAN  HISTORY.     In 

•i  vols.  IHnio.    With  PlntoM. 

INDIAN  UIOGRAPHY;  or  an  historical  Account 

of  those  liidlvlduals  who  have  been  dlstlngulNhnd  nmonR  the  North  American 
Natives  as  Orntors,  VVurrlurs,  8iai«sni«n,  and  olhvr  reumrkablo  Characlan. 
liy  i).  U.  Thati  iiKii,  Kh(|.    9voIh,  l8mo.    Plates. 

HISTORY  OF  BRITISH  INDIA,  from  the  most 

remnid  Porlnd  to  the  present  Time.  Ily  Eight  Authors.  In  3  vols.  18mo. 
With  EngmvliiKS. 

A  DES('RIPTK)N  OF  PITCAIRNS  ISLAND  and 

ita  Inhahitanis,  wiih  an  nuihentio  Anonuni  ofthit  Mutiny  ol'  tliu  Rhip  Bounty, 
and  of  the  iul>R('i|iient  Fortunes  of  the  Mutineers.    IHino.    Plates. 

THE  SACKED  HISTORY  OF  THE  WORLD,  as 

displayed  In  the  I'reatlon  and  subsequent  Events  to  the  Ihjjuge.  By  Biiaror 
Turnbr,  F.h.a.  &o,    l8nio, 

LETTEKS    ON   NATURAL    MAGIC.     By  Dated 

BnawsTKR,  M..i).    With  F.ngravlngs. 

HISTORY  OF  IRELAND.    In  S  vols.   18mo.    By 

W.  C.  Tavi.or,  Es(|.    With  an  Appendliby  Wm.  Samphon.    Kngravlnga. 

HISTORICAL   VIEW  OF  THE   PROGRESS  OP 

DISUOVRRV  ON  THE  MOKE  NORTHERN  COAMTM  OF  AMBRIOA. 
By  P.  F.  T«'ixin,  Er(|.,  and  ProAiaaor  Wii.ion.    Map  and  Eiigravhiga. 

TRAVELS    AND    RESEARCHES    OF    BARON 

UVMBOLDT.    By  W.  MacaibUTRAY.    BngriTlnn. 


WORKS   POOLISHBD   BY   J.  &  J.  IIAAPKR. 


LETTERS  OF  EULER  ON  DIFFERENT  SUB- 
JECTS IN  NATURAL  PHILOSOPHY.  Wim  Notes  and  •  Life  of  Bulw, 
by  David  B  abwstbr,  LL.D.  With  addliioaal  Notu,  by  J.  ORiwoa,  LL.D. 
In  9  Toll.  ISmo.    EngniTingi. 

A  POPULAR  GUIDE  TO  THE  OBSERVATION 

OFNATUKB.    By  Riibbrt  Mi'dik,  Eaq.    ISmo.    Eagravinga. 

THK  HISTORY  OF  CHARLEMAGNE.    By  G.  P.  R. 

Jamks,  Esq.    ItJmo.    With  Portrait. 

LIFE  OF  OLIVER  CROMWELL.    By  Rev.  M.  Rus- 

•aLi.,  LL.D.    In2vol8.    18mo.    Portrait. 

NUBIA  AND  ABYSSINIA :   Comprehending  their 

Civil  History:  Antiquities,  Arts,  Religiuii,  Literature,  and  Natural  History. 
By  Rev.  M.  HiiHAKi.i,,  LL.U.    18ino.    Kngravlngs. 

XENOPHON.     With  a  Portrait.     In  2  vols.  18mo. 
DEMOSTHENES.   With  a  Portrait.    In  2  vols.  18mo. 
SALLUST.    By  Rose.    With  a  Portrait.     18mo. 
CtESAR'S  COMMENTARIES.    Portrait.   In  2  vols. 

Dy  Dun(;an.    18ino. 

LIVES  OF  THE  APOSTLES  and  Early  Martyrs 

iifthe  (Jliurch.     ISmo. 

THE  SWISS  FAMILY  ROBINSON ;  or,  Adventures 

ofa  Father  and  Motticr  and  Four  Sons  on  a  Desert  Island.    In  3  vols.  ISmo, 
Witll  EtiRriivitigs. 

SUNDAY  EVENINGS;   or,  an  easy  Introduction 

to  the  Reading  of  tlin  Bible.    In  3  vols.  I.Smo.    With  Engravings. 

THE   SON   OF  A   GENIUS.    By  Mrs.   Hofland 

Idmo.    With  l-jiiKriivingB, 

NATUR.VL  HISTORY;  or.  Uncle  Philip's  Conver- 
sations with  tlic  CliiUlriMi  about  Toiil.s  und  Trades  among  the  Inferior  Ani- 
mals.   Willi  nuiniTous  Engravings.     18ino. 

INDIAN  TRAITS.  By  the  Author  of  "  Indian  Biog- 
raphy."   Iii3voU.    ISino.    With  numerous  Engravings, 

TALKS  FROM  AMERICAN  HISTORY.    In  3  vols. 

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SUBALTERN'S  FURLOUGH: 

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I  .  ■ 

OF  TKB 

'     UNITED   STATES, 
UPPER  AND  LOWER  CANADA,  NEW-BRUNSWIC!K, 

AND 

NOVA   SCOTIA, 

DURINS    THE   SUMMER  AND   AUTUMN   OF   1832. 

I 

BY  E.  T.  COKE, 

LIEUTENANT  OF  THE  49TH  REGIMENT. 


Wand'ring  from  clime  to  clime  observant  stray'a, 
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s^-: 


Pope. 


IN    TWO    VOLUMES. 

VOL.    I. 


NEW- YORK: 

PrOLUSHED  BY  J.  &  J.  HARPER, 

NO.  82,    CLIFF-SrnEET. 

AND  SOLD  UV  THE  PRINCIPAL    DOOKSELLERS  THROITUHOUT 

THE    UNITED    STATES. 


M  DCCC  XXXIII. 


h] 


n 


HIS  GRACE  THE  DUKE  OP  RUTLAND,   KG., 


&C.  &('., 


Ctltfl  Volutat 


IS  BY  PERMISSION  DEDICATED, 

WITH    KINCEIIB    HE»PE(;T, 
»Y   HI8  grace's 

VEHT   ODEDIRNT 
ANO   MUCH  OlItlOBn  SfRVAKT, 

THE  AUTHOR. 


'    / 


PREFACE. 


Feeling  dissatisfied  with  the  various  statements 
which  have  issued  from  the  press  in  such  rapid  suc- 
cession within  the  Uist  two  or  three  years,  respecting 
tho  United  States,  and  being  convinced  that  much  yet 
remained  to  be  learned  relative  to  that  part  of  tho  vast 
Western  Continent,  I  came  to  tho  determination  of 
availing  myself  of  a  short  leave  of  absence  from  my 
military  duties  to  cross  the  Atlantic,  and  inform  my- 
self more  fully  upon  the  subject. 

Afler  travelling  over  2000  miles  of  the  most  inte- 
resting districts,  and  visiting  the  principal  Atlantic 
cities  in  the  United  States,  I  extended  my  tour 
through  an  equal  distance  in  tho  British  provinces. 
As  my  only  object  in  publishing  the  following 
narrative  is  to  contribute,  in  however  small  a  degree, 
to  the  knowledge  already  possessed  of  those  countriei 
which  are  so  fust  rising  into  importance,  I  hope  that  1 
shall  not  lay  myielf  open  to  a  charge  of  presumption. 

In  the  following  unpretending  pages,  I  profess  only 
to  give  an  unbiassed  and  impartial  statement  of  what 
came  under  my  own  observation.  My  remarks  are 
confined  to  those  things  which  require  but  a  short  re- 
iidence  in  a  country ;  and,  merely  pointing  out  som« 


X  PREFACE.  f 

of  the  most  interesting  objects  and  places  of  greatest 
historical  note,  I  leave  the  full  definition  of  Republican, 
National  Republican,  Federalist,  NulHfier,  Democrat, 
and  all  the  other  various  shades  and  sects  of  the 
political  world,  to  those  who  have  made  state  affairs 
their  study. 

.  I  much  regretted  that  circumstances  would  not  per- 
mit a  longer  stay  in  so  attractive  a  portion  of  the 
globe,  and  do  not  hesitate  to  recommend  those  who 
are  at  a  loss  how  to  kill  time  during  the  summer 
months  to  mnkc  a  similar  trip.  If  their  expectations 
are  not  too  sanguine,  they  will  be  amply  repaid  for 
the  slight  inconvenience  of  rough  seas  and  rough 
roads,  by  not  only  becoming  acquainted  with  an  inte- 
resting people,  but  l)y  the  opportunity  which  will  be 
fifTordcd  tbciu  of  viewing  some  of  the  most  stupcndouis 
natural  curiosities  as  well  as  some  of  tbo  finest  speci- 
mens of  art  in  the  world. 

May  2,  1833. 


CONTENTS 


a- 


:y 


CHAP.  I. 


PACE 


/ 


38—62 


Set  Bail  from  Liverpool — Emigrants  on  board — Man  stow- 
ed away — Dr.  Emmons's  Fredoniad — Make  land — Pilot 
— Enter  the  Delaware — Run  aground — The  Pee  Patch 
Fort — Delaware  City — (Quarantine  Station — Mud  Fort 
— Visit  Philadelphia — Dearborn — RepubUcan  Tavern- 
keeper  13—29 

CHAP.  II. 

Philadelphia— Hotels — Temperance  Societies — Tlieatrc 
— Newspapers 30 — 37 

CHAP.  III. 

Charitable  Institutions — Pennsylvania  Hospital — West's 
Paiiitinfj; — Alms'  House — Museum — Manimolh — Ma- 
jor Amlr«5 — Arcade — State  House — Academy  of  Fine 
Arts — -Line-of-battle-ship — Water-works — Bridges — - 
Fire  and  Hose  companies — United  States'  Bank  .    .    . 

CHAP.  IV. 

Volunteers  and  Militia — Sale  of  Stock — Railway — Ger- 
man Town — Tho  Fire  Knig— Ponu's  Elm-tree — Ste- 
phen Girard — Churches — Markets — Streets — Peuihm- 
tiary S3— 67 

CHAP.  V. 

Diipartnro  (Vom  Philadolpiua — Steamers — Cliesapenke — 
BiUlimore — Monumuiils — Theatre; — Catliedriil — Alor- 
cliants'  Hall — Beiiuiydf  llio  Females — Nfttiee  at  iho 
Hotel— General  Ross— linHle  of  North  Point — Leave 
Baltimore — Coaches — Bludonsburgh,  Battle  of— Arrive 
at  Washington 68—82 

CHAP.  VI. 

Tho  Capitol— Mr.  Adams's  Speech— Destrnet ion  of  Pul)- 
lie  Buildiiif^s — Tripoli  Monument — Member  of  C'on- 
i^ress  drowned — Attom])t  at  Assassination— Mr.  Law 
—Plan  of  tho  City 83— IKJ 

CHAP.  VII. 

Alexandria— Museum — Mount  Vernon — Washintjton's 
Tomb — General  Jackson— State  and  War  Depart- 
muitl»— Captured  Culuuri—Purlraiu  of  Indian  Chiuf»— 


xu 


CONTENTS. 


Arsenal — Navy  Yard— Georgetown — Ohio   Canal — 
Falls  of  the  Potomac 97—110 

CHAP.  VIII. 

Leave  Washington — Musical  German — Miserable  Night    i 
— Blue  Ridge — Winchester — Harper's  Ferry — Manu- 
factories of  Arms — Descend  the  Potomac — Point  of 
Rocks — Restless   Niglit — Mississippi  Captain — Rail- 
way— Cholera— Arrive  at  New- York Ill — 127 

CHAP.  IX. 

Day  of  Festivities — Description  of  City — Academy  of 
Fine  Artit — Niblo's  Gardens — Witty  Auctioneer — 
Churclies — Negro  Dandies — Yankee  Story — Justice  of 


the  Peace — Sam  Patch's  Leap— Deserted  City 

CHAP.  X. 


128—147 


Mrs.TroUopc — Captain  Hall — Brother  Jonathan's  anger 
—Correct  English 148—15$ 

CAAP.  XI. 

Leave  New- York — HcU-gatc — New-IIaven — Indignant 
Lady — ilcf^icide  Judges — Yankee  Nonchalance — Defi- 
nition of  "  Yankee  " — -Hartford — -Archers — -Fire — 
Churches 156—164 

CHAP.  XII. 

Leave  Hartford — Providence — Collcpfe — King  Pliilip — 
Not,  permitted  to  enter  Now]>ort — Sinujc-concli  Conver- 
sation— Yiuikoo  Wit — Arrive  lit  Boston 165—179 

CHAP.  XFtl. 

Description  of  Boston — Washiiifrton's  Statue — Museum — 
Funcuil  llnll — Navy  Yard — Bunker's  Hill — Harvard 
Cojlctje — IMilUdani — Franklin — Leave  Boston — Colo- 
nel (Joffe — BiMvuliful  town — Asccntl  Mount  Ilolyoko 
Wcll-traiiicd  Horse— upset  in  tin;  Couch    .     .    .".     ,  180—194 

CHAP.  XIV. 

Lebanon  Springs-  ~Shakers— Lrrture — Mother  Ann — 
Black  t  iddlt  rs — Troy — Hrhencctndy  Cnllcp — Krio 
Canal — Driver  thrown  into  the  C'lnal — Falls  of  the 
Mohawk~Iu  search  of  tile  Hiililimo 195—809 

CHAP.  XV. 

Inquisitive Pnt-housr  TCrcpcr — hilJsofTrrn'on— Shaking 
in  ft  Dearborn — WliilcNiionnmli  hiNtilutioi\— -("Icrgy- 
maii'n  Saiarv — Sunday  Scliools — Tnsrarora  Indians- 
Mail  Bugs— Names  of  Towns «iO— iM 


V0^ 


y 


97—110 


'¥ 


111— 127 


SUBALTERN'S    FURLOUGH. 


128—147 


148—155 


CHAPTER  I. 

Adieu,  adieu !  my  native  shore, 
Fades  o'er  the  waters  blue. 

Hail  Columbia! 


Btron. 

^ONQ. 


156—164 


165— 17I» 


180—194 


95—209 


As  nothing  can  be  more  uninteresting  to  unprofes- 
sional readers,  than  a  recapitulation  of  all  the  various 
changes  of  weather,  the  heavy  saualls  and  gales,  themore 
tedious  long  rolling  calms,  the  dense  fogs  and  dangerous 
icebergs  (on  the  banks  of  Newfouudland),  the  passing 
sails,  and,  in  short,  the  usual  contents  of  a  ship's  log; 
I  shall  only  briefly  take  notice  of  a  few  incidents  con- 
nected with  the  voyage.  After  a  detention  of  three  days 
at  Liverpool,  owing  to  contrary  winds  with  rough  and 
boisterous  weather,  the  packet  ship,  in  which  I  had  en- 
gaged a  passage,  hauled  out  of  Prince's  dock  at  daylight 
on  the  morning  of  the  33d  of  April,  and  stood  down 
channel;  but  it  was  not  until  the  fiflh  dny  from  that  time 
that  we  were  clear  of  the  southernmost  cape  of  Ireland : 
a  foul  wind  possessed,  however,  one  redeeming  quali- 
ty, by  successively  displaying  the  fine  bold  coast  of  the 


Emerald  Isle,  and  the 
I  had  selected  the 
New-York  line  of  pac 


MO— 222 


)icturosquo  mountains  of  Wales. 
.Philadelphia  in  preference  to  the 
kets,  and  made  some  small  sacri- 
fice to  accommodation  and  society,  from  a  sunposition 
that  but  few  emigrants  would  be  bound  so  far  to  the  south* 
ward ;  knowing  full  well,  from  previous  experience,  tht 

VOL.  1. — D. 


14 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


great  inconvenience  of  a  crowded  steerage.  I  was  therefore 
much  surprised  to  find  that  although  a  vessel  of  only  370 
tons,  she  was  carrying  out  146  passengers  in  that  part 
of  the  ship.     I  had.however,  no  cause  to  regret  the  choice 
I  had  made,  as  I  found  myself  in  an  excellent  seaboat  with 
an  active  and  experienced  commander,  who  had  already 
crossed  the  Atlantic  seventy-six  times;  no  trifling  re- 
commodation  to  a  pleasure-seeking  passenger.      The 
weather,  for  the  season  of  the  year,  was  unusually  bois- 
terous, and  the  wind  variable ;  blowing  scarcely  for  twen- 
ty-four hours  in  succession  from  any  one  point  of  the 
compass :  but  having  a  good  stock  of  provisions  and 
pleasant  society  on  board,  it  mattered  little  to  the  cabin 
passengers  (who  were,  with  one  exception,  old  sailors) 
which  way  the  ship's  head  was ;   but  to  the  emigrants, 
an  increasmg  gale  was  a  source  of  great  tribulation  and 
alarm;     the  deck  resounding  with  their  groans   and 
prayers  until  it  moderated.      The  captain  and  myself 
were  walking  upon  deck  one  squally  day,  when  seeing 
several  of  the  steerage  passengers   sitting  on  the  fore 
hatchway,  exposed  to  every  sea  which  came  aboard,  yet 
at  the  same  time  apparently  regardless  of  it,  we  had 
the  curiosity  to  ask  them,  what  they  were  doing  there, 
and  why  not  below  in  their  berths  ?    "  Why  sure  now, 
Captain,"  said  the  spokesman,  an  Irishman,    "and  isn't 
it  that  we  are  waiting  here,  so  that  we  will  be  ready  to 
get  into  the  boats,  if  the  ship  goes  down  ;  for  we  know 
you  wouldn't  wait  to  call  us."     The  weather  itself  was 
not  more  variable  than  their  conduct:    in  a  calm,  the 
Welch  and  Irish  kept  the  whole  vessel  in  a  uproar  with 
their  broils  and  fighting,  which  ever  arose  from  national 
reflections ;    and  each  man  having  brought  a  store  of 
liquor  on  board  with  him,   as  part  of  his  sea-stock,  the 
combatants  were  generally  more  than  half  intoxicated : 
while  in  rough  weather,  the  self-same  parties   woula 
be  leagued  together  singing  psalms,  in  which  they  were 
assisted  by  the  English  ana  Scotch,  who  kept  aloof  dur- 
ing  the  storm  of  words  and  war  of  fists.     Amongst  the 
emigrants,  however,  were  many  respectable  farmers,  who, 
with  their  families,  were  about  to  seek  their  fortunes  in 
the  Now  World ;  but  the  majority  were  artificers,  and 


A   subaltern's   FUHLOUOa. 


1ft 


were 
)of  dur- 
gst  the 
s,  who, 


lome  few  were  men,  who,  if  they  could  not  make  their 
fortunes,  judging  from  outward  appearances,  could  scarce- 
ly mar  them.     They  were  well  equipped  for  the  early 
commencement  of  operations  in  America,  being  burthen- 
ed  with  no  such  heavy  baggage  as  bedding,  trunks, 
wires,  children,  or  even  a  change  of  apparel;  and  it 
was  a  matter  of  conjecture  to  many  of  us,   how  they 
could  have  procured  sufficient  money  for  the  payment 
of  their  passage.     A  man  obtained  a  free  one  in  the  fol- 
lowing, by  no  means  uncommon  manner : — The  crew  in 
overhauling  the  stores  in  the  sail-room,  a  few  days  after  we 
had  put  to  sea,  discovered  him  snugly  stowed  away  with-  , 
in  the  coil  of  a  cable,  and  bringing  him  upon  deck,  he 
proved  to  be  a  great,  broad-shouldered,  ruddy-faced  son  of 
Erin,  "a  poor  orphan,"  as  he  described  himself,  who  hav- 
ing taken  a  drop  too  much  of  the  cratur  had  found  his 
way  into  the  sail-room  by  accident,  and  fallen  asleep, 
when  the  ship  lay  alongside  the  quay,  and  that  his  pro- 
visions were  in  his  coat-pocket,  which,  upon  due  exami- 
nation, proved  to  contain  only  a  solitary  copper,   and  a 
dry  crust  of  mouldy  bread.     Our  worthy  skipper  put 
him  in  great  bodily  fear,  by  threatening  to  tie  him  up  to 
the  gangway,  and  after  giving  him  a  round  dozen,   to 
put  him  on  board  the  first  fishing-smack  we  met  off  the 
coast  of  Wales ;  but  it  was  merely  a  threat  in  terrorem, 
M  the  following  day  ho  was  duly  initiated  into  all  the 
rites  and  mysteries  of  Jemmy  Ducks;  and  after  being  in- 
vested with  full  power  and.  command  over  that  very 
requisite  department,  he  became  a  most  important  and 
useful  personage.     Some  scoundrel,   however,  relieved 
him  of  part  of  his  charge,  by  administering  a  quantity  of 
oxalic  acid,  which  carried  off  all  our  stock  of  grunters 
at  "  one  fell  swoop."  A  woman,  also,  with  the  tact  of  her 
own  sex,  avoided  detection  until  we  had  been  a  month 
at  sea,  and  was  only  then  discovered  through  the  im- 
peachment of  one  of  her  follow-passengers.    She  had 
ffone  quite  on  the  opposite  tack  to  the  "  poor  orphan :"  to 
far  from  courting  concealment,  she  had  ever  been  observ- 
ed to  be  cooking  or  loitering  about  the  caboose,  was  the 
most  noisy  of  all  the  females  on  board,  and  had  once 
or  twice  even  ventured  upon  the  sacred  limits  of  the 


19 


▲  subaltern's  furlovoh 


quarter-deck.  So  proud  a  bearing  blinded  every  person 
on  board;  nor  could  any  one  have  imagined,  even  when 
challenged  with  the  fraud,  but  that  she  had  paid  her 
passage,  so  menacing  and  formidable  an  appearance  she 
assumed,  with  her  arms  a-kimbo,  and  a  contemptuous  toss 
of  the  head.  Although  the  captain  keeps  a  sharp  look 
out  (there  being  a  fine  imposed  upon  ships  carrying  a 
greater  number  of  passengers  than  the  law  admits,  ac- 
cording to  the  tonnage),  yet  few  vessels  sail  from  Liver- 
pool without  carrying  more  than  their  complement.  Some- 
times an  affectionate  wife  introduces  her  lord  and  mas- 
ter on  board  in  the  guise  of  a  trunk  filled  with  old  clothes, 
or  in  a  crate,  as  her  stock  of  crockery,  in  which  he  is  half 
smothered,  and  tossed  about  most  unceremoniously,  dur- 
ing the  confusion  attendant  upon  weighing  anchor. 

Having  anticipated  a  three  weeks'  passage,  the  few 
books  I  had  brought  on  board  were  exhausted  by  the 
time  we  were  half-way  across  the  Atlantic ;  and  as  a  last 
resource,  almost  amounting  to  a  fit  of  desperation,  I  ob- 
tained the  loan  of  Dr.  Emmons's  "  Fredoniad  j  or,  In- 
dependence Preserved,"  from  a  fellow-pessenger,  and 
toiled  in  a  most  persevering  manner  through  at  least  ten 
of  the  almost  interminable  number  of  cantos  (forty,  I  be- 
lieve) which  compose  the  work ;  but  a  series  of  gross  li- 
bels upon  the  English  nation,  did  not  even  possess  suffi- 
cient mterest  to  make  amends  for  the  rest  of  such  a  dry, 
S rosing  composition ;  and  after  a  few  days  I  flung  it 
own  in  despair,  preferring  to  pass  my  time  in  watchmg 
the  fleeting  clouds  by  day,  and  the  moon  by  night,  to 
volunteering  again  upon  such  a  forlorn  hope.  If  the 
work  was  equally  unprofitable  to  the  author  in  a  pecu- 
niary line,  as  it  was  to  me,  in  point  of  information,  he 
must  have  derived  very  little  satisfaction  from  his  lucu- 
brations. I  never  had  the  good  fortune  to  meet  with 
any  of  his  countrymen  who  had  thoroughly  perused  the 
work,  so  could  not  ascertain  their  opinion  of  its  full  value 
H3  an  historical  one.  Of  its  impartiality,  any  one  may 
judge  from  the  following  extract  (one  out  of  a  hundred), 
descriptive  of  an  interview  between  the  British  General 
Procter,  and  Indian  Chief  Tccumseh,  in  which  the  (or- 
mer  says, 


k  subaltern's  fvrlouoh. 


n 


may 

idred), 

jleneral 

ihe  (or- 


••Brother!  ourking*chief  hath  for  you  prepared, 
For  eTery  scalp  an  ample  rich  reward — 
Batter  of  those  who  b'eed,  their  skulls  in  sport, 
For  we  with  them  shall  decorate  our  court 
At  York,  duebec,  at  Kingston." 

The  wold  is  yours,  what  sort  soe'er  you  bring, — 
Such  IS  the  liberal  promise  of  the  king! 
There's  no  distinction  of  the  price  for  kind — 
Sires,  infants,  mothers,  virgins,  lame  or  blind. 
Now,  now's  the  offer'd  time  to  crush  the  brood, 
To  broil  their  hearts,  and  eat  their  flesh  for  food." 

Thrice  happy  indeed  was  I,  when  the  green  water 
once  again  making  its  appearance,  showed  that  we  were 
in  soundings.  The  unusUal  length  of  the  voyage  had 
not  only  been  rendered  extremely  unpleasant  by  the  num- 
ber, but  also  by  the  want  of  cleanliness  in  the  steerage 
passengers,  some  of  whom  would  not  even  breathe  the 
fresh  air  upon  deck,  in  moderate  weather. 

On  a  fine,  mild  afternoon — ^the  first  we  had  been  favour- 
ed with  since  the  shores  of  England  had  sunk  into  the 
waves — ^there  was  a  cry  of  "Land  a-head'"  from  the 
fore-top  gallant  yard.  Every  one  in  an  instant  was  upon 
deck,  some  for  the  first  time  during  the  voyage,  and  the 
rigging  was  covered  with  those  who  previously  had 
not  courage  to  mount  the  ladder  of  the  hatchway.  Every 
eye  was  in  vain  straiiied  to  gain  a  glimpse  of  the  long- 
wished-for  coast  of  America,  and  three  cheers  greeted 
the  captain  as  he  descended  upon  deck;  the  women  crowd- 
ing round  him,  dancing  ana  singing,  as  though  he  had 
rescued  them  from  some  imminent  danger.  Many  had 
certainly  suffered  much  from  that  worst  of  all  miseries, 
sea-sickness  ;  and  those  who  had  seen  better  days,  from 
the  company  they  were  obliged  to  keep  in  the  steerage ; 
where  the  small-pox  and  inflammatorv  fever  had  broken 
out  a  few  days  after  we  had  sailed  from  Liverpool,  at- 
tacking mai'.y,  and  three  or  four  persons  fatally.  Tho 
wind,  however,  which  had  been  aying  away  for  hours, 
now  totally  failed  us,  and  it  became  a  deaa  calm.  So 
our  sole  employment  consisted  in  watching  the  move- 
ments of  the  innumerable  sloops  and  small  craft  which 
where  rolling  about  at  the  distance  of  some  miles;  and 


18 


A   subaltern's   FURLOUGir. 


I  ijt  ' 


which,  whenever  a  slight  air  or  cat's  paw  crossed  them, 
appeared  as  if  concentrating  to  one  point,  their  heads 
tending  to  some  great  emporium  of  commerce.  Two  ex- 
ceptions to  the  above  afforded  much  amusement.  These 
proved  to  be  rival  pilot  schooners,  taking  every  possible 
advantage  of  flaws  of  wind  and  w'et  sails,  but  still  mak- 
ing little  progress  towards  the  ship  which  each  was  striv- 
ing to  gain ;  at  last,  however,  our  attention  was  attracted 
by  a  small  black  object,  which  appearing  at  intervals  on 
the  swell  of  a  sea,  was  at  first  taken  for  a  portion  of  the 
drift-wood  which  so  thickly  covers  the  Atlantic  off  the 
American  coast ;  but,  upon  examining  it  through  a  glass 
was  found  to  be  a  small  cutter,  pulled  by  two  men,  and 
in  the  course  of  an-bur  the  victorious  pilot  stepped  on 
board,  having  fairly  outmanoeuvred  his  opponent.  Every 
one  pressed  close  round,  asking  him  ten  thousand  sense- 
less questions ;  but  he  was  a  man  of  few  words,  and  all 
the  information  we  could  reap  from  him  amounted  to — 
•*  that  they  had  frost  and  snow  in  April;"  and  that  "there, 
was  a  war  in  Congress."  Having  delivered  thus  much 
in  a  gruff  tone  of  voice,  he  threw  a  bag  of  clothes  from 
under  his  arm  alongside  the  helm;  and  after  passing  a 
few  minutes  in  looking  up  and  scanning  the  rigging  with 
a,  seaman's  eye,  lay  down  upon  a  hencoop,  and,  over- 
powered by  his  exertions  to  reach  the  vessel,  was  soon 
last  asleep.  His  appearance  as  a  pilot  was  by  means 
prepossessing;  far  different  indeed  from  that  of  the  hardy 


looking  race  of  the  English  Channel, 
gaunt  old  man,  with  shoulders  bent 


He  was  a 


tall, 


by  the  storms  of 
some  seventy  years,  and  a  face  bronzed  oy  the  sun  until 
it  resembled  that  of  a  copper-coloured  Indian.     I  really 

Eitied  him,  as  he  tottered  along  the  deck  with  one  of  his 
ands,  which  nad  been  jammed  between  the  cutter  and 
ship's  side,  to  his  mouth,  and  thought  it  high  time  that 
he  was  placed  upon  the  retired  list.  The  day  being 
warm,  he  was  attired  in  a  thick  white  waistcoat,  nankeen 
trowsers,  originally  blue,  and  a  yellow  painted  canvass 
hat.  I  should  judge  that  the  captain  was  as  little  pleas- 
ed with  the  appearance  of  'he  man  who  had  taken  charge 
of  the  ship,  as  any  one  else ;  for  aAer  asking  in  a  signi- 
ficant and  dry  tone  of  voice, "  if  there  were  any  more  pilots 
on  board  the  schooner,"  he  descended  into  the  cabin. 


J  :  .•  ^v» 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


Id 


a 


tall 


A  light  breeze  springing  up  at  midnight,  the  follov- 
ing  morning  showed  us  the  tops  of  the  trees  and  head- 
lands of  the  low  coast  of  Maryland,  suspended  as  it 
were  in  mid-air.  Afler  standing  a  few  miles  to  the 
northward,  by  sun-set  we  made  the  capes  of  the  Dela- 
ware. It  was  now  the  25th  of  May,  and  the  day,  like 
the  preceding  one,  was  fine  and  clear,  with  a  warm  sun, 
the  thermometer  standing  90°  in  the  shade :  such  a  sud- 
den change  in  the  atmosphere,  together  with  the  low, 
flat  shore,  forcibly  reminded  me  of  scenes  in  the  East — 
the  entrance  to  the  Bay  of  Delaware  resembling  the 
mouth  of  the  Hoogly  or  Iriwaddi  rivers.  The  distance 
between  Cape  Henlopen,  in  Delaware,  and  May,  in 
New  Jersey  state,  is  about  fifteen  miles.  The  coast  near 
the  latter  Cape  abounds  with  dangerous  shoals  and  over- 
falls, and  the  navigation  of  the  river  is  rendered  very  in^ 
tricate  throughout  by  numerous  sand-banks.  After  pass- 
ing between  the  two  Capes,  the  river  expands  into  a  noble 
bay  about  thirty  miles  long,  and  thirty  wide,  when  it  again 
contracts  to  a  width  of  two  miles,  and  continues  so  with  lit- 
tle variation  up  to  Philadelphia.  On  the  Henlopen  side 
of  the  bay  a  large  breakwater  was  commenced  a  few  years 
since ;  but  instead  of  the  foundation  being  laid  upon  the 
"  Shears,"  a  shoal  running  parallel  with  the  land,  it  was 
placed  in  four  fathom  water  between  the  two :  thus,  not 
only  rendering  the  work  more  troublesome  and  expen- 
sive, but  also  contracting  the  harbour  considerably,  which 
has  been  formed  into  a  receptacle  for  sand  and  mud, 
brought  in  by  an  eddy  caused  by  this  ill-judged  plan. 
The  pilot  assured  us  that  there  was  already  less  water 
by  some  feet  than  when  the  foundation  was  commenced. 
An  officer  of  the  American  navy  had  recommended  that 
it  should  be  built  upon  the  shoal,  but  his  plan  was  re- 
jected, and  the  present  one,  that  of  a  civil  engineer, 
adopted ;  by  which,  one  of  the  finest  harbour  in  the 
world  appears  in  danger  of  being  seriously  damaged. 
The  breakwater  against  the  fury  of  the  sea  is  to  1&  a 
mile  in  length,  with  the  upper  end  of  the  harbour  pro- 
tected by  an  ice-breaker,  so  that  vessels  may  ride  in 
safety  during  the  winter  months  :  the  latter  was  highly 
requisite,  many  ships  having  been  lost  through  exposure 


80 


A   SUBALTERN'S   FCRLOUOH. 


I 


T 


to  the  river  ice.  Seven  planks  in  the  bows  of  the  packet 
ia  which  I  was  at  this  time,  had  been  cut  through  in 
lets  than  two  hours,  three  months  previously,  by  the 
drift-ice  being  kept  in  motion  by  the  strength  of  the 
tide,  and  acting  like  a  saw  against  them ;  the  vessel  be- 
ing only  saved  by  running  it  ashore.  The  expense  of 
this  great  undertaking  will  be  enormous,  much  of  the  stone 
required  in  its  construction  being  brought  by  sea  from  the 
Hudson  River  quarries  120  miles  distant. 

Evening  had  set  in  before  we  fairly  passed  between  the 
Capes,  and  at  the  distance  of  five  miles  the  surf  could  be 
distinctly  heard  roaring  against  Henlopen.  During  the 
day,  while  our  anxious  pilot  was  asleep  upon  the  booms, 
a  boat  was  lowered  to  catch  a  turtle  floating  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  water,  in  as  happy  a  state  of  forgetfulness  as 
the  old  man  himself;  but  the  ship  having  too  much  head- 
way upon  her,  the  boat  could  not  again  reach  her,  and 
we  were  under  the  necessity  of  awakening  the  pilot,  to 
heave  the  ship  to,  which  he  most  reluctantly  ordered, 
venting  his  displeasure  at  the  same  time  in  a  low  inward 
grumbling.  Not  feeling  very  confident  as  to  the  safety 
of  the  ship  under  such  a  man's  charge,  I  took  the  pre- 
caution of  retiring  to  my  berth  at  night  without  divesting 
myself  of  my  clothes,  thinking  it  more  than  probable  that 
I  should  find  it  convenient  to  bo  on  deck  ere  morning 
without  much  loss  of  time.  My  suppositions  proved  cor- 
rect ;  for  about  half-past  two  o'clock  I  was  awakened  by 
a  slight  motion  of  the  ship,  and  although  it  did  not  equal 
in  force  that  of  a  heavy  sea  striking  it,  yet  the  grating  of 
a  vessel  with  all  sail  set  upon  a  hard  sand,  produces  a 
sensation  which,  when  once  experienced,  will  never  be 
forgotten.  All  hands  rushed  upon  deck  in  an  instant ; 
when,  10 1  and,  behold  I  our  worthy  Argus  was  snugly 
stowed  nwny  in  a  corner,  fast  in  the  arms  of  Morpheui, 
while  the  vessel  striking  heavily  for  some  minutes,  finally 
full  over  a  little  on  its  side,  and  remained  immoveable. 
At  this  time  there  were  no  fewer  than  three  lights  in 
sight,  two  a-stern  on  the  Capes,  and  a  floating  one  di- 
rectly B-head.  I  never  heard  how  the  old  man  accounted 
for  running  us  o-ground — this,  however,  was  no  time  for 
explanations  ;  but  the  boats  being  lowered  as  quickly  ai 


▲  9VBAI.TERN  8   FURLODOU. 


SI 


possible,  and  soundinffs  being-  taken,  it  was  found  that 
we  were  on  the  windward  side  of  the  "Browns,"  a 
dangerous  shoal  about  twelve  miles  from  land ;  and  that 
so  long  as  the  wind  continued  from  the  present  quarter, 
there  would  be  no  hopes  of  the  ship  floatmg ;  and,  if  the 
sea  rose,  she  would  inevitably  go  to  pieces.  As  day 
dawned,  the  ominous  prospect  of  the  head  and  bowsprit 
of  a  ship  showed  themselves  above  water,  a  few  hunared 
yards  distant,  being  all  the  visible  remains  of  the  "  Can- 
ning "  packet,  lost  two  months  previously.  It  was  now 
for  the  first  time,  I  heard  a  genuine  Yankeeism :  "  the 
ship's  lost  to  all  eternitv,"  said  the  captain ;  "  it  a'int, 
I  guess,"  drawled  out  the  old  pilot,  giving  the  sentenco 
at  the  same  time  a  most  inimitable  twang,  which  even 
Mathews  himself  would  have  failed  in  producing. 

It  was  in  vain  that  all  eiTurts  were  used  for  three  houif 
to  get  the  ship  off ;  it  remained  firm  as  a  rock,  excepting 
during  the  turn  of  tide,  when  it  again  struck  heavily. 
Seeing  no  prospect  of  its  being  moved  until  lightened, 
the  "  star-spangled  banner,"  reversed,  was  hoisted  at  thv 
mast-head,  while  the  passengers  awaited  the  arrival  of 
boats  from  the  shore  to  carry  them  away.  I'hc  first  craft 
we  saw  was  a  slooj),  which,  laden  with  shingles,  and 
steered  by  a  iiogro,  run  close  alongside  of  us.  The  fellow 
hailed  us  very  coolly,  with,  "Have  you  a  pilot  on  board?" 
and  being  answered  in  the  afRrmative,  he  continued  on 
his  course  without  tendering  any  assistance:  fortunately, 
however,  we  needed  none  :  for  the  wind  veering  a  point 
or  two,  and  freshening  witn  the  flood-tide,  we  once  more 
floated,  and  standing  our  course  up  the  river,  soon  over- 
took our  black  friend  and  his  shingle  sloop,  at  whom,  «fi 
paaant,  o  volley  of  abuse  was  fired. 

As  we  gained  the  head  of  the  bay,  and  entered  the 
contracted  part  of  the  river,  we  caught  occasional  glimpies 
of  small  villages  and  neat  white  cottages,  scattered  at 
intervals  along  the  banks,  which  v  ere  covered  with  wai* 
nut,  oak,  and  patches  of  pino.  I  was  leaning  over  the  side 
of  the  vessel,  admiring  the  scene,  but  regretting  that  the 
clearings  were  so  "  few,  and  far  between,"  when  seeing 
%  oarnonter,  a  countryman  of  my  own,  limilarly  em- 
ployea,  I  asked  him  what  bethought  of  the  New  World 


22 


▲   subaltern's   rURLOUOR. 


^ 


at  which  we  had  arrived.  "Oh,  sir  1  it  is  a  fine  country ; 
only  look  at  the  timber."  I  smiled,  as  the  old  story  of 
"  nothing  like  leather"  occurred  to  my  recollection ;  and 
the  worthy  planer  of  wood  continued  to  enlarge  upon  his 
opinion  in  a  strain  of  encomium-  He  came  up  to  me  a 
few  hours  after  landing,  quite  delighted  with  having  been 
hired  at  a  dollar  per  diem  on  the  Ohio  rail-road. 

The  scene  was,  indeed,  a  most  pleasing  one.    The  clear 
bright  atmosphere,  which  is  unlcnown  to  England,  dif- 
fusing a  cheerfulness  over  every  object,  with  not  even  a 
passing  cloud  to  hide  the  brilliant  rays  of  the  sun,  as  they 
fell  upon  the  thousands  of  white  sails  which  covered  the 
•urfacc  of  the  broad  and  noble  Delaware  ;  while,  ever 
and  anon,  one  of  those  huge  leviathans  of  the  deep,  an 
American  steamer,  darted  past,  leaving  a  long  tram  of 
white  smoke  from  its  timber-fed  furnaces.     The  whole 
presented  a  scene  striking  and  novel  to  an  Englishman. 
If  there  was  any  thing  to  detract  from  the  beauty  of  the 
landscape,  it  was  the  perfect  flatness  of  the  face  of  the 
country,  thcro  not  being  a  rising  knoll,  or  single  ridge 
to  break  the  back-ground  ;  nor  could  much  be  seen  be- 
yond the  smiling  verdure  of  the  forest-crowned  banks : 
It  was  a  scene,  indeed,  at  this  moment,  of  life  and  sun- 
shine ;  but,  probably,  if  viewed  on  a  squally,  wet  dar, 
would  be  thought  tame  and  uninteresting  enough.     We 
hove  to  again  towards  evening  to  be  boaraed  by  an  officer 
from  a  revenue  cutter,  moorocf  in  the  centre  of  the  stream ; 
and  at  dusk  came  to  an  anchor  near  a  small  island,  where, 
at  five  o'clock  the  following  morning,  we  buried  a  child 
which  had  died  of  the  small-pox  during  the  night ;  and 
then  getting  undor  weigh,  arrived  a-breast  of  Fort  Dela- 
ware.or  the  *'  Pee  Paten,"  buih  upon  a  low  reedy  island, 
which  divides  <he  river  into  two  channels,  and  is  an  ad- 
mirable position  for  defending  the  passage.     The  works 
are  of  masonry  and  very  extensive  ;  but  the  whole  of 
the  interior,  including  the  barracks  and  light-house,  was 
consumed  by  fire  two  years  since,  through  tne  neffligcoee, 
as  was  stated,  of  an  ofitcer  reading  in  bed.     No  atepa 
have  y«t  been  taken  towards  repairing  it,  great  suim 
having  boon  expended  upon  its  construction  only  a  finr 
years  previous  to  the  above  accident.    Th«  channal  ba- 


A  subaltern's  furloooh. 


23 


BUIh- 

officor 
tream ; 
where, 
a  child 
;  and 
Dela- 
island, 
an  ad- 
works 
lole  of 
se,  was 
igcDce, 
■tepi 

•UIM 

y  a  fim 
n«lbo< 


twb^n  it  and  the  main  land  is  to  narrow  tliat  with  a 
head  wind  and  heavy  squalls  there  was  not  room  to  work 
ship,  and  we  were  once  more  compelled  to  let  go  the 
ancnor.     Opposite  to,  and  about  a  mile  distant  from  the 
fort,  is  Delaware  citv,  at  the  junction  of  the  Chesapeake 
Canal  with  the  Delaware.     I  went  ashore  for  an  hour 
at  mid-dav,  and  walked  through  the  city,  which  is  but 
a  miserable  straggling  hamlet,  with  an  inn  at  the  landing- 
place,  and  one  or  two  stores  ;  at  which  a  friend,  who 
accompanied  me,  managed  to  obtain  a  few  cigars,  and 
some  Lundyfoot  snufT,  though  the  storekeeper  would 
not  vouch  lor  its  being  the  true  Irish — "it  might  be 
Yankee,  and  made  at  Boston,  but  he  guessed  not."    The 
canal  appeared  of  noble  dimensions,  being  sixty  feet 
wide  at  the  surface,  and  calculated  for  vessels  with  a 
draught  of  eight  feet  water.     The  inhabitants,  howeverr 
told  us  it  would  not  answer  now  so  well  as  formerly,  a 
rail-way  having  been  formed  five  miles  higher  up  the 
river  in  the  same  direction,  on  which  all  the  passencfers 
travelled  between  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore.     While 
we  were  standing  on  the  side  of  the  tide-lock,  two  sloops 
passed  through,  laden  so  high  with  enormous  oysters, 
that  the  vessels'  ducks  were  on  a  level  with  the  water  ; 
being  fastened  a-stern  of  a  steamer,  ih^y  were  towed  up 
the  river  at  an  amazinc'  speed,  for  the  gratiHcation  of  the 
gourmands  of  Philadelphia.     The  cholera  had  broken 
out  in  England  prior  to  our  sailing,  and  rumours  of  its 
ravages  had  reached  America  some  time  ;  and  as,  most 
probably,  its  effects  hud  l<'on  much  exnfjfgoTntod,  every 
one  lived  in  the  greatest  dread  of  its  nppi'nring  in  thv 
States.     A  gentleman,  who  was  standing  on  the  quay  at 
Delaware  city,  welcomed  my  friend,  and  congratulated 
him  upon  his  return  to  his  native  land ;  but  the  hitter 
telling  him  in  jest  that  we  had  the  cholera  on  board,  he 
parted  from  us  very  unceremoniously,  nor  could  all  our 
assurances  that  it  was  only  the  small-pox,  induce  him  to 
return  and  continue  the  conversation. 

The  passonffors  were  unfortunately  prevented  from  quit- 
ting the  vessel,  on  account  of  the  siniiU-nox  having  been 
prevalent  on  board,  which  (although  the  last  ouhu  was 
disposed  of)  would  probably  subject  ui  to  quarantine  for 


'0 


A  SUBALTERN'S   FURLOVOH. 


^ 


tome  days,  unless  we  could  manage  to  pass  the  Lazaretto 
before  the  1st  of  June,  on  which  day  the  quarantine  flaf 
is  hoisted,  and  its  performance  rigidly  enforced  upon  all 
infected  vessels.  It  was  now  the  31st  of  May,  and  every 
one  being  anxious  to  avoid  farther  detention,  the  ship  got 
under  weigh  with  the  flood  tide  at  night ;  and  after  run- 
ning  into  the  mud  only  once,  from  which  it  was  again 
raised  by  the  tide  in  a  few  minutes,  it  carried  on  all  sail 
until  past  midnight,  and  anchored  half  a  mile  above  the 
quarantine  station,  nineteen  miles  from  Philadelphia.  The 
hospitals,  with  the  storehouses,  are  very  prettily  situated 
within  a  picquet  fence  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river ;  a 
small  village  adjoins,  and  the  ground  rising  with  a  gentle 
acclivity  from  the  water's  edge  for  upwards  of  a  mile,  is 
covered  with  farms  not  too  thickly  wooded,  but  in  many 

filaces  assuming  a  park-like  appearance.  The  country, 
irom  the  town  of  Wilmington,  the  largest  town  in  the 
state,  containing  about  12,000  inhabitants,  twenty-four 
miles  below,  loses  its  dead  flatness ;  but  the  ridge,  which 
runs  parallel  with,  and  at  some  distance  from  the  rivei^, 
does  not  exceed  200  feet  in  height.  Throughout  the  day 
of  the  1st  of  June  it  blew  so  heavy  a  gale  of  wind,  that 
the  ship  drifted  a  considerable  distance  from  two  anchors, 
nor  could  the  pilot  venture  to  get  under  weigh.  The 
following  morning,  during  the  ebb  tide,  several  of  us 
rowed  one  of  the  boats  to  a  small  island,  towards  which 
we  had  been  drifting  the  preceding  day,  where  a  farmer 
had  established  himself  In  landing,  we  found  a  sturgeon 
of  about  120  pounds  weight,  whirh  had  been  loft  by  the 
tide  in  a  shallow  pool,  and  sci/cd  upon  him  for  the  be- 
aofit  of  the  steerage  passengers,  who,  like  r)urselves,  wore 
rather  short  of  provisions,  and  to  whom  we  thought  a 
little  fresh  fish  would  be  acceptable,  Hut  it  wos  not 
until  after  hard  ntniggling  and  battling,  with  much 
splashing  and  rolling  about  in  the  water,  that  three  of  ui 
succeeded  in  securing  our  priase,  and  lifting  him  into  the 
boat.  The  fanner,  also,  selling  us  a  Inmb  and  soma 
vegetables,  wo  returned  in  triumph  to  the  vessel,  and 
again  got  under  weigh,  passing  Mud  Fort,  situated  on  an 
island  at  the  embouchure  of  the  Schuykill,  a  strong  hold 
during  the  revolutionary  war,  and  the  scene  of  much  hard 


X  subaltern's  furlough. 


26 


fighting  between  the  Hessians  and  Americans,  in  which 
the  former  were  repulsed  with  considerable  slaughter  ; 
but  the  fort  was  finally  evacuated  after  a  vigorous  defence 
against  the  British,  who  lost  the  Augusta,  line-of'battle 
ship,  and  Merlin  frigate,  which  tO(ik  fire  during  the  action 
having  grounded  at  the  sunken  chevaux-de-frise,  half  a 
mile  below  the  fort.  The  position  is  an  excellent  one, 
but  the  works  are  fast  falling  to  decay.  On  the  opposite 
side  of  the  river  is  Red  Bank,  the  site  of  another  old 
fort,  abandoned  on  the  approach  of  Lord  Cornwallis ; 
while  in  the  centre  of  the  streum  pre  the  remains  of  a 
large  wooden  battery,  formed  by  piles  driven  into  the 
bed  of  the  river  ;  but,  like  the  Pee  Patch,  it  was  set  fin* 
to  and  destroyed,  by  some  fishermen  cooking  their  pro- 
visions a  few  years  since.  The  only  vestiges  of  it  now 
remaining  are  some  rusty  old  guns,  and  blackened  pieces 
of  timber.  From  the  lower  end  of  another  reach  of  the 
river,  which  extends  for  several  miles  from  hence,  we 
caught  the  first  glimpse  of  the  city — a  shot-tower,  and 
huge  building  in  the  navy  j'ard,  with  a  forest  of  masts 
appronchinff  above  the  trees.  The  smart  white  frame- 
houses,  with  their  green  Venetian  shiUters  and  gardens, 
(iverhung  by  weeping  willows,  and  numerous  poach 
orchards,  on  the  Jersey  side,  with  the  large  well-cleared 
grazing  farms  upon  the  Pennsylvania  bonk,  were  cTideni 
proofs  that  we  were  neurin^'  some  great  abode  of  men, 
One  island  particularly  (the  possession  of  which  1  envied 
the  owner,)  of  about  5J00  acres,  won  by  lottery  ten  or 
twelve  years  since,  was  remarkably  beuuiifiil,  and  quite 
sludden  over  with  cattle. 

The  tide  failed  us  most  provokingly  off  Gloucester 
Point,  at  the  upner  ond  of  the  fine  reacli,  just  ns  wo  had 
rounded  the  lanci  and  came  in  ftiU  view  of  the  city,  at  th<! 
distance  of  only  three  miles  ;  the  wind  too,  following  its 
example,  tho  snip  could  not  stem  the  ebbing  tide,  and 
very  reluctantly  tho  anchor  was  let  go  within  nhnost 
reach  of  the  goal. 

In  the  evening  several  of  us  landed,  and  hiring  at  a 

small  inn  one  of  the  common  four-wheeled  open  wagons 

of  the  country,  called  a  Dearborn  (from  the  inventor,) 

proceeded  over  a  road,  which,  ihoiign  in  the  immediuto 

VOL.  I.— c. 


"^-v 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


•>^. 


i^. 


vicinity  of  the  city,  was  wretchedly  bad ;  the  carriage,  too, 
was  as  uncomfortable  an  invention  as  could  be  well  ima* 
ffined,  there  being  but  one  narrow  wooden  seat,  slung  in 
m«  centre  of  the  vehicle  upon  straps,  with  two  rude 
wooden  springs  to  support  it;  upon  this  two  of  our  party 
took  up  a  position,  while  another  who  volunteered  to  drive 
sat  in  a  chair  in  front,  and  two  others  occupied  chairs 
in  rear  of  the  centre  seat,  while  a  little  curly-headed  negro 
was  posted  upon  one  of  the  shafts,  where  he  sat  grinning 
and  holding  on  like  a  monkey,  his  dusky  skin  forming  a 
charming  contrast  to  an  old  gray  mare  which  was  to  draw 
us.  Our  time  being  short,  the  whip  was  not  spared  ;  so 
that  we  were  whirled  along,  rolling  and  pitchmg  about 
through  thick  and  thin,  and  wherever  a  drain  or  deep 
water-course  crossed  the  road,  the  carriage  giving  a  heavy 
lurch,  and  all  the  chairs  shooting  forward  with  one  con- 
sent, our  volunteer  coachman  was  nearly  precipitated  on 
to  the  horse's  back,  and  the  two  in  rear  of  the  centre  seat, 
not  having  any  thing  to  plant  their  feet  firm  against,  were 
thrown  on  to  the  backs  of  those  occupying  the  seat  in 
front.  It  was,  indeed,  a  broad  caricature  of  "  travelling 
in  the  south  of  Ireland,"  and  we  were  right  glad  to  gain 
the  outskirts  of  the  city  in  safety,  and  abandon  the  uneasy 
conveyance,  leaving  it  in  charge  of  our  sable  attendant. 

While  one  of  the  party  went  to  sound  the  jship-owners 
if  we  could  remain  ashore  during  the  night,  and  until  the 
vessel  reached  town,  the  rest  of  us  (after  walking  about 
the  dimly  lighted  squares  and  streets,  with  which  we  were 
soon  fati(Tuud,  our  feet  being  tender  from  the  little  exer- 
cise we  had  taken  of  late)  proceeded  to  an  oyster-cellar, 
and  there  awaited  our  sentence  with  great  calmness,  dis* 
cussing  the  various  merits  of  English  natives,  and  Ame- 
rican oysters.  The  latter  are  so  largo,  that  one  of  our 
party,  who  had  laid  a  wager  that  he  could  eat  a  dozen  and 
a  half  of  them,  was  obliged  to  cry,  "  hold  I  eno!i»rhl"  ere 
he  had  arrived  at  the  twelfth.  At  midnight  our  spy  re- 
turned with  the  doleful  tidings  that  we  must  return  to 
the  ship,  and  that  on  the  morrow  a  mediral  man  would 
inspect  it,  ond  set  us  at  liberty.  To  hear,  was  to  obey  ; 
so  without  any  more  ado  we  retraced  our  weary  steps, 
and  found  our  little  man  of  colour  and  his  charge,  tno 


A  SUBALTERN  3   FURLOUGH. 


3T 


ere 


pale  horse  and  Dearborn,  moAt  patiently  aMraiting  our 
arrival.  The  road  appeared  to  have  grown  either  some- 
what rougher,  or  our  charioteer  did  not  steer  so  small 
(to  use  a  nautical  term)  as  before  ;  but  after  running  a 
whpelonceor  twice  into  the  deep  ditches,  with  which  the 
road  was  flanked,  he  brought  us  again  to  the  tavern-door 
by  one  o'clock,  where  the  landlord,  aroused  from  his 
slumbers,  soon  made  his  appearance  at  the  bar.  Every 
thing  was  strange  to  me ;  I  might  truly  say  I  was  in  a 
New  World ;  I  had  heard  of  American  landlords,  but, 
like  the  road,  this  man  was  beyond  my  conjectures.  He 
came  down  stairs  the  very  beau  ideal  of  a  dandy,  with  a 
tiny,  little  spiral  hat,  placed  knowingly  on  one  side  of  his 
head,  gold  studs,  and  broach  at  his  breast,  watch  guard- 
chain  round  his  neck,  rings  on  his  finger,  with  his  nether 
man  cased  in  a  pair  of  red  striped  '*  continuations;"  and, 
to  crown  all,  he  cursed  and  swore  "  like  any  gentleman." 
We  inquired  if  the  boat  had  been  off  for  us,  and  were 
informed  it  had  been,  but  had  returned  to  the  ship  at 
ten  o'clock,  as  he  had  told  the  crew  he  would  fire  a  signal 
when  we  arrived.  Thanking  him  for  his  kindness,  we 
thought,  as  a  recompense,  we  were  in  duty  bound  to  call 
for  something  to  drink ;  and  a  considerable  time  having 
elapsed  in  carrying  our  good  intentions  into  eflfect,  and 
seemg  r  preparations  making  for  firing  his  promised 
signal,  one  of  the  party  asked  him  ii  ho  would  favour  us 
by  commencing  operations.  "  Aye,  aye,"  said  he,  '•  I 
told  the  mate  I  would  fire  a  gun — I  would  fire  a  gun  in 
anger  when  you  came ;  but  wait  a  bit,  I'll  take  a  glass 
myself  first,"  aid  then  vith  the  most  admirable  sang- 
Jfroid,  he  set  about  maki'ig  n  glass  of  port-wine  sangaree, 
stirring  the  su^nr  n.bout  with  a  small  circular  piece  of 
wood,  to  which  a  handle  was  attached,  and  which  he 
twirled  about  in  his  white  hands  with  great  dexterity. 
Having  quafTed  this  mi.vture  off  to  our  heahhs,  and  wel- 
come to  America,  he  lighted  a  cigar,  ofToring  one  at  the 
same  time  to  each  of  the  admiring  spcctutors,  and  then 
crossing  his  aims  over  his  breast  d  mi  NapoUon  le  Grand, 
he  talked  of  passing  events,  and  asked  the  news.  Like  old 
Hardcastle  in  the  play,  I  said  aside — 


"  Thli  fellow's  impudeneo  raaily  rndkei  me  laugh,** 


d8 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


and  thought  his  cool  assurance  must  arise  from  a  wish 
to  show  off  before  strangers.  I  turned  away  from  him, 
unable  to  repress  a  laugh,  and,  as  bad  luck  would  have 
it,  unfortunately  saw  a  dog  lying  upon  the  floor,  which 
I  stooped  down  to  pat  with  my  hands.  Mine  host  no 
sooner  saw  this  movement,  than  he  was  out  from  his  bar 
in  a  twinkling,  holding  forth  at  great  length  in  praise  of 
the  animal,  which,  from  his  account,  possessed  all  the 
Tarious  qualities  of  spaniel,  greyhound,  and  pointer  com- 
bimd.  "  Aye,  now  there's  a  dog  for  you — only  look  at 
him — look  at  his  points — there's  not  a  cleverer  dog  in 
the  Union,  I  guess — he's  half  English ;  when  I  go  out 
gunning,  and  shoot  a  rat  or  a  squirrel,  he'll  bring  it 
immediately — I  would' nt  take  fifty  dollars  for  him.  A 
gentleman  down  here,  the  other  aay,  offered  thirty  for 
him  off-hand.  Here,  sir !  here  sir !  come  here !  now, 
lie  down!  lie  down,  lie  dow  .  .  .nl"  The  dog  leapt 
up,  placing  its  fore  paws  on  its  master's  person.  "  Aye, 
he's  only  frightened  before  company,  but  I  would  nt 

Eart  with  him  for  a  cent,  less  than  fifty."  And  thus 
aving,  in  his  Own  opinion,  established  his  dog's  reputa- 
tion, he  at  last  commenced  the  tedious  operation  of  load- 
ing an  enormously  long  barrelled  gun,  respecting  whose 
good  qualities,  also,  we  had  to  endure  a  long  disserta- 
tion, while  he  was  springing  the  ramrod,  and  ramming 
down  about  three  fingers^  deep  of  shot,  with  as  nmch 
labour  and  flourishing  movement  as  there  is  in  loading 
n  twelve-pounder  field-piece ;  and,  finally,  we  had  the 
infinite  satisfaction  of  hearing  Washington,  or  some 
such  nobly-named  ducky  son  of  Afric,  summoned,  who 
received  orders  to  proceed  to  the  end  of  the  wharf,  and 
fire  the  long  wished-for  signal.  Shortly  afterwards  the 
)lash  of  oars  reaching  our  ears,  wo  bade  our  loquacious 
lost  a  long  and  last  farewell,  having  paid  him  two  dol- 
ars  and  a  half  (10».  6rf.  sterling)  for  the  use  of  his  Dear- 
born and  gray  steed  ("  he  would'nt  bo  too  hard  upon 
us"),  and  by  half-past  two  o'clock  were  once  more  in 
our  snug  cabin. 

The  sun  was  high  in  the  heavens  the  following  day 
before  I  awoke  from  strange  and  troubled  dreams  of 
uysters,  Dearborns,  landlords,  negroes,  dogs,  and  guns. 


▲  svbaltirn's  furlovoh.  iK 

A  medical  man  coming  on  board  as  the  anchor  was 
weighing,  said  he  was  satisfied  with  the  health  of  the 
passengers,  and  that  we  had  permission  to  leave  the  ship, 
which  an  hour  after  mid-day  was  safely  moored  along- 
side one  of  the  city  wharfs,  and  we  all  stepped  a- 
shore  with  heartfelt  joy,  having  been  forty  days  from 
Liverpool. 


>  * 


3 
*.'.* 

/        , 

,W'^  ■ 

I 

-    .-''    i 

. 

1 

i  ,' 

'  ■     ■  '■%■-  ■   ' 

1  fu  .'     .. 

N        V           ) 

1  ■••4  ".'•»  t. ', 
•cIMc  I  I  !^  .-. 

'''"■\^r    {, ;       '5   •'^ii  .   '.  f 


A  subaltern's  fvrlouoh. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Into  one  of  the  noeefesf  of  hotels, 
Especially  for  foreigners — 

Where  juniper  expresses  its  best  juice — 

For  downright  rudeness,  ye  may  stay  at  home. 


Btron. 


f  Philadelphia,  the  reverse  of  Lisbon,  at  first  presents 
no  beauties ;  no  domes  or  turrets  rise  in  air  to  break  the 
uniform  stiff  roof-line  of  the  private  dwellings.  And,  if 
1  remember  right,  the  only  buildings  which  show  their 
lofty  heads  above  the  rest,  are  the  State  House,  Christ 
Church  (both  built  prior  to  the  Revolution),  a  Presbyte- 
rian meeting-house,  and  shot-tower.  The  city,  therefore, 
when  viewed  from  the  water,  and  at  a  distance,  presents 
any  thing  but  a  picturesque  appearance.  Iv  is  some- 
what singular,  too,  that  there  should  be  such  a  scarcity 
of  spires  and  conspicuous  buildings,  there  being  no  few- 
er than  ninety  places  of  worship,  besides  hospitals  and 
charitable  institutions  in  great  numbers.  In  place,  too, 
of  noble  piers  and  quays  of  solid  masonry,  which  we 
might  reasonably  expect  to  find  in  a  city  containing  near 
140,000  inhabitants,  and  hoMing  the  second  rank  in 
commercial  importance  in  NoriL  America,  there  are  but 
some  shabby  wharfs,  and  piers  of  rough  piles  of  timber, 
jutting  out  in  unequal  lengths  and  shapes,  from  one  end 
to  the  other  of  the  river  front ;  and  these  again  are 
backed  by  large  piles  of  wood,  warehouses,  and  mean- 
looking  stores.  On  the  narrow  space  between  them  and 
the  water  aie  hundreds  of  negro  porters,  working  at  vast 
heaps  of  iron  bars,  barrels  of  flour,  cotton  bags,  and  all 
the  various  merchandise  imported  or  exported  ;  singing 
in  their  strange  broken-English  tone  of  voice,  some  ab- 
surd chorus,  such  as, 

"  I  mot  a  n\s;^cr" — {chorus  all)  '•  long  time  ago !" 

"  I  met  n  niggur" — (chorttn  all)  "  long  time  nco  !" 

"I  say,  where  yrm  going?" — {chorus  all)  "long  time  ago!" 

"Pull  n way,  my  boys" — {thm'us)  "yoh!  heave — yoh!" 

or  some  such  clegont  strain. 


f 


▲  subaltern's  furlough. 


it" 


Fifty  paces  hence,  the  stranger  enters  the  city,  which 
possesses  an  interior  almost  unrivalled  in  the  world. 
On  walking  through  the  fine  broad  streets,  with  rows  of 
locust  or  other  trees,  which  planted  on  the  edge  of  the 
causeway,  from  a  most  delightful  shade,  and  take  away 
the  glare  of  the  brick  buildings,  he  is  struck  immediate* 
ly  with  the  air  of  simplicity,  yet  strength  and  durability 
which  all  the  public  edifices  possess,  while  the  private 
dwellings  with  their  neat  white  marble  steps  and  win- 
dow-sills bespeak  wealth  and  respectability.     The  neat- 
ness, too,  of  the  dress  of  every  individual,  with  the  total 
absence  of  those  lazy  and  dirty  vagabonds  who  ever  in- 
fest our  towns,  and  loiter  about  the  corners  of  all  the 
public  streets,  passing  insolent  remarks  upon  every  well- 
dressed  man,   or  even  unattended  female,   impress   a 
foreigner  with  a  most  pleasing  and  favourable  idea  of 
an  American  city. 

The  river  in  front  of  the  town  is  about  a  mile  wide, 
but  the  channel  is  considerably  contracted  by  an  island 
which  extends  nearly  the  full  length  of  the  town,  and 
consequently  renders  the  navigation  more  intricate.  It 
is  prettily  planted  with  trees,  and  a  ship  has  been  run 
ushore  at  one  end,  and  converted  into  a  tavern,  a  house 
being  raised  upon  the  upper  deck.  It  was  quite  a  gala 
day,  numerous  steum-vessels  and  rowing  boats,  proceed- 
ing up  the  stream  to  Kensington  (part  of  the  suburbs,) 
and  we  arrived  just  in  time  to  see  a  large  ship  of  600 
tons  burthen  glide  gracefully  from  the  stocks. 

I  was  recommended  by  an  American  gentleman  to  an 
hotel  in  the  principial  street,  where  I  was  immediately 
accommodated  with  a  room.     It  will  scarcely  be  out  of 
place  to  mention  here,  that  the  bed-rooms  in  the  hotels 
in  the  United  Statt's  are  not,  generally  speaking,  so  large, 
comfortable,    or   well  furnished    as  those   in   English 
houses ,  but  the  establishments  themselves,  with  regard 
,to  size  and  capacity  for  accommodating  numbers,  far  ex- 
ceed those  in  England.     In  America  much  comfort  is 
sacrificed  for  the  purpose  of  admitting  numerous  guests 
into  the  house :  a  private  sitting-room,  or  separate  meals, 
are  scarcely  to  be  had,  and  then  only  at  a  high  price  ; 
and,  therefore,  as  almost  every  one  is  under  the  necessi^ 


\ 


32 


A   SUBALTERN  S   FURLOUGH. 


ty  of  dining  at  the  table  d'hote^  a  large  hotel  pressnts  a 
scene  of  great  confusion  and  bustle.  At  the  one  in 
which  I  resided  during  my  stay  at  Philadelphia,  there 
were  about  a  hundred  persons  at  each  meal,  and  the  ma- 
jority of  them  being  merchants,  from  the  back  settle- 
ments, on  their  summer  trip  to  purchase  articles  for  their 
customers  in  the  west,  lawyers  and  shopkeepers  (or 
"  storekeepers,"  as  they  term  themselves,  a  "shopkeeper" 
being  only  a  retailer  on  a  small  scale),  they  devoured 
their  meals  with  a  most  astonishing  rapidity ;  and  va- 
nished instanter  to  their  offices  and  counters,  intent  upon 
business  alone.  I  was  lost  in  admiration,  and  nearly 
lost  my  dinner,  too,  the  first  few  days  I  was  ashore,  in 
watchmg  the  double-quick  masticating  movements  of  my 
vis.d-vi3;  I  truly  believe  that  one-third  of  the  people  had 
disappeared  ere  my  soup  was  cool.  A  young  man,  who 
opens  a  store,  if  a  bachelor,  has  seldom  any  other  apart- 
ment than  the  shop  he  rents,  while  he  boards  and  sleeps 
at  an  hotel,  paying  generally  about  400  dollars  (847. 
sterling)  per  annum,  if  at  a  large  and  respectable  one ;  the 
board  for  occasionel  lodgers  being  one  and  a  half  dollar 
{6s.  3d.)  per  day.  It  is  not  customary  in  most  towns  to 
make  any  extra  remuneration  to  the  waiters  or  other 
servants  of  the  establishment ;  but  of  late  years,  this  bad 
habit,  like  many  others  from  the  mother  country,  has 
been  creeping  into  the  cities  on  the  coast ;  and  though 
the  servants  do  not  actually  request  any,  yet  they  usually 
expect  it :  they  are  generally  Irish  emigrants,  or  half 
castes,  if  I  may  use  an  eastern  term ;  for  though,  during 
my  stay  in  the  United  States,  I  did  not  enter  less  than  a 
hundred  hotels,  I  never  saw  a  waiter  whom  I  could  as- 
certain to  be  a  free-born  American ;  their  pride  not  allow- 
ing them  to  fill  such  places.  In  country  villages,  where 
the  attendants  are  females,  I  have  frequently  seen  the 
one  waiting  upon  me  at  the  dinner-table,  take  a  chair 
near  the  window,  or  the  other  end  of  the  room,  and  read, 
a  newspaper  until  she  observed  I  required  anything; 
but  during  my  whole  travels,  I  never  knew  a  wuiting- 
man  take  a  similar  liberty. 

The  breakfast  hour  is  usually  from  seven  until  nine 
o'clock,   dinner  at  two  or  three,   tea  from  six  to  seven, 


li 

t] 
I 

ti 
e 
t( 
tl 
v 
fa 
t; 
r 

0 

d 


A   SUBALTERN  S   FURLOVOH. 


>» 


and  supper  from  nine  to  twelve ;  the  table  at  each  meal 
being  most  substantially  provided.  Even  at  break&st 
there  is  a  profusion  of  beef-steaks,  cutlets,  mutton-chops, 
eggs,  fish,  fowls,  Indian  bread,  flour  bread,  sweet  cakes, 
cheese,  sweetmeats,  and  a  mess  of  other  et  ceteras  ;  but 
little  wine  is  drank  at  dinner,  though  spirits  are  placed 
upon  the  table  without  any  extra  charge  being  made  to 
consumers.  Yet  since  the  institution  of  the  Temperance 
Societies,  the  use  of  ardent  spirits  amongst  the  higher 
classes  of  society  has  been  almost  laid  aside.  I  have 
seen  a  range  of  well  filled  spirit  decanters  placed  upon 
the  dinner-table  before  upwards  150  people  and  not  a 
single  stopper  removed.  The  strongest  proof,  however, 
of  the  great  decrease  of  the  use  of  ardent  spirits,  appears 
from  the  following  returns  of  the  number  of  gallons  im- 
ported into  the  United  States  during  seven  successive 
years,     In 


1824 
1825 
1826 
1827 

1828 
1829 
1830 


•  ••••< 

•  ••«(• 

•  •         •         •         •         I 


Gallons. 
6,285,047 
4,114,046 
3,322,380 
3,465,302 
4,446,698 
2,462,303 
1,095,488 


Many  hotels  have  "  Temperance  House"  inscribed  in 
large  gilded  lettcv  over  the  door  or  sign,  as  a  notice 
that  wines  and  man  liquor  only  can  be  obtained  there. 
Like  all  other  ni'W  institutions  the  Temperance  Socie- 
ties had  their  enthusiasts  at  first.  Abstinence  Societies 
emanated  fidn  them,  the  members  binding  themselves 
to  drink  puri  water  only;  and,  in  some  churches,  nei- 
ther males  nor  females  were  admitted  to  the  communion 
unless  they  had  enrolled  themselves  amongst  the  mem- 
bers of  one  or  other  society.  All  these  bigoted  absurdi- 
ties are  now  softened  down  into  wholesome  and  sound 
regulations.  Wines  are  generally  high  priced,  and  not 
of  the  first  quality,  so  that  little  of  any  thing  is  drank 
during  dinner.  But  in  the  old-fashioned  hotels,  where 
Temperance  Societies  have  not  any  sway,  the  bar,  dur« 


! 


34 


A   SUBALTERN  S    FURLOUGH. 


ing  the  intervals  between  meals,  is  besieged  by  a  host  of 
applicants  for  iced  mint-julaps,  brandy,  egg-nog,  gin- 
cocktail,  rum  and  water,  gm  and  water,  Port  san- 
garee,  and  all  the  various  combinations  and  mixtures  of 
liquors  imaginable.  When  a  foreigner  (as  was  the  case 
not  unfrequently  with  myself)  finds  himself  established 
for  two  or  three  days  in  such  a  house  as  this,  he  must 
summon  his  full  stock  of  nerve  and  resolution  to  enable 
him  to  withstand  the  dense  fumes  of  tobacco  smoke,  with 
which  his  apartment  is  fumigated,  and  to  breathe  an  at- 
rnosphere  strongly  impregnated  with  the  conjoined  scent 
of  the  abo\fe  mixtures.  The  intolerable  habit  of  chew- 
ing tabacco  is  very  prevalent  amongst  the  storekeepers, 
and  lower  grades  of  society,  but  I  think  it  is  almost  con- 
fined to  them  J  the  very  act  of  mastication  itself  (tremen- 
dously as  it  IS  here  performed)  is  not  half  so  ofiensive 
to  the  eyes  of  a  foreigner  as  the  results  arising  from  it. 
In  a  country,  however,  where  there  is  ostensibly  no  dis- 
tinctive gradation  of  classes  in  the  people,  one  must  of 
necessity  sometimes,  as  on  board  steamers  and  canal 
boats,  mix  with  the  canaille  ;  but  I  will  bear  witness  that 
I  never  even  then  observed  any  impropriety,  or,  during 
the  whole  time  I  was  in  America,  received  the  slightest 
insult  from  (what  I  will  term)  the  lower  orders,  and  to 
which  individuals,  nnd  especially  foreigners,  are  so  sub- 
ject in  my  native  country. 

It  is  singular  to  see  the  footing  upon  which  a  land- 
lord at  nn  inn  is  with  his  customers — apfjearing  rather 
to  conA^r  than  receive  a  favour,  by  admitting  them  into 
his  house.  At  dinner,  he  frequently  takes  the  head  of 
the  table,  drinks  his  wine,  and  asks  those  sitting  near  to 
take  a  glass  with  him:  chnts,  and  laughs  away,  and  sita 
longer  after  the  cloth  lias  been  removed  than  nine-tenthi 
of  his  guests. 

Upon  first  landing,  I  was  much  struck  with  the  per* 
lonal  appearance  of  the  people,  as  being  tall,  slim,  nar- 
row-shouldered, whiskerless,  and  narrow-cheated,  with 
high  cheek  bones,  sharp,  sallow  features,  and  a  alouch* 
ing,  relaxed  kind  of  walk.  I  think  narrow  ahouldert 
and  aharp  features  may  be  deemed  characteristic  of  the 
natirea  of  the  Atlantic  atatoa ;  one  never  aeoing  any 
auch  aturdy,  robuat,  rosy-faced,  John  Bull  sort  of  people 


A   SUBALTERN  B   FUHLOUOH. 


96 


<is  Britain  produces.  Their  costume,  also,  diflfers  much, 
every  man  invariably  wearing  trowsers,  and  the  lower 
orders  being  better  dressed  than  people  in  the  same  walks 
01  life  in  England.  As  it  was  summer,  most  people 
had  white  straw  hats,  with  broad  brims,  the  back  part 
over  the  collar  of  the  coat,  turned  up  like  a  shovel  hat, 
giving  the  wearer  a  most  grotesque  appearance ;  a  great 
proportion  of  the  young  men  wore  spectacles,  and  weak 
eyes  appeared  very  prevalent. 

The  first  evening  I  was  ashore,  I  attended  the  Arch 
Street  Theatre  (the  most  fashionable  one,  the  Chesnut, 
being  closed],  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  Mr.  Hackett, 
who  was  in  nigh  repute  with  his  countryman,  perform 
the  part  of  '•  Nimrod  Wildfire,"  in  the  "  Raw  Kentu- 
kian ;  or,  Lion  of  the  West."  The  play  is  intended  to 
censure  and  correct  the  rough  manners  of  the  States  west 
of  the  Alleghany  mountains,  and  delighted  the  audience 
exceedingly ;  though  to  me  the  greater  part  of  the  dia- 
logue consisted  of  unintelligible  idioms.  Mr.  Hackett 
possessed  great  talent  for  broad  comedy;  and  I  was  in- 
formed that  the  efTect  of  his  performance  in  the  West 
was  such  as  to  excite  a  strong  feeling  against  him ;  and 
so  incensed  the  "hiilf-horse,  half-aligator  boys,"  "the 
yellow  flowers  of  the  forest,"  as  the  call  themselves, 
that  they  threatened  "to  row  him  up  Salt  river,"  if  he 
ventured,  a  repetition  of  the  objectionable  performance. 
I  was  sorry,  however,  to  see  rather  a  bad  feeling  dis- 
played towards  the  old  country.  In  various  parts  of  the 
performance  frequent  allusions  were  made  to  circum- 
stances which  ought  long  to  have  been  buried  in  ob- 
livion; and  which  could  only  tend  to  diminish,  or  rather 
prevent,  mutual  good-will,  l^hose  allusions,  which  ever 
told  against  the  Eniq^lish,  were  much  applauded  by  the 
audience.  The  theatre  is  a  fine  building,  with  white 
marble  front,and  columns  of  the  sniro  beautiful  material, 
supporting  a  frieze  of  the  Doric  order;  and  the  interior 
arrangements  are  excellent.  There  are  also  two  more  in 
tho  city,  suMrior  in  external  appearance,  and  more  ca- 
pacioua  within  than  any  of  the  minor  theatres  in  Lon- 
don, and  all  are  well  attended. 


I 


i 


\ 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


The  3d  of  June  was  so  cold  and  rainy  a  Sunday,  as  to 
remind  me  of  Washington  Irving's  description  of  that 
passed  by  him  at  the  little  town  of  Derby;  but  here  there 
were  neither  the  "  ducks  paddling  about  the  inn-yard,  the 
hostlers  and  post-boys  lounging  about  the  stable-doors, 
or  the  bells  chiming  for  church."  In  vain  did  I  stand  at 
the  window  looking  into  the  flooded  street ;  there  was  . 
not  a  coach  |)assed  by  the  live-long  day,  and  but  one  peal 
of  bells  in  the  city,  those  at  the  old  English  Christ 
Church ;  while  the  ringing  of  the  solitary  bell  at  each  of 
the  other  meeting-houses  and  churches  of  all  denomina- 
tions, sounded  more  like  a  toll  of  the  passing-bell,  and 
added  to  the  gloominess  occasioned  by  the  weather.  As 
evening  set  in,  I  followed  the  example  of  the  author  of 
the  Sketch  Book,  and  took  up  a  newspaper ;  but  reading 
only  "molasses,"  "  flour,"  "  whiskey,"  "  pork,"  "bagging 
and  bale  rope,"  or  the  not  more  interesting  news  of"  the 
President's  speech  has  arrived  in  England,  and  a  bitter 
pill  it  is  for  an  Englishman  to  digest,"  &c.,  I  turned  over 
to  the  advertisements,  generally  the  most  amusing  part  of 
an  American  paper ;  a  runawoy  apprentice  being  adver- 
tised "as  fond  of  pressing  down  the  bed  in  the  morning, 
with  a  reward  of  one  cent,  (a  half-penny,)  and  no  charges 
offered  for  his  apprehension."  Printers  were  cautioned 
against  a  swindler,  who  was  thus  described : — "  Ho  stole 
his  trunk,  &c.  out  of  my  house  last  nif^ht,  and  he  has 
gone  awa\  without  paying  the  tailor's  bill  or  his  board 
bill, — Said  Rogers  is  about  twenty-three  years  of  age,  has 
rod  hair,  fair  skin,  and  a  large  homely  mouth;  the  upper 
teeth  jutting  over  very  much.  He  plays  the  flute,  and 
mak«(s  some  pretensions  as  a  poet  I  but  it  is  easy  to  see 
that  he  is  a  plagiarist.  It  is  presumed  that  editors  inte- 
rested for  the  character  of  the  trade,  will  give  the  above 
a  few  insertions. 

"dtimca.  "John  Cromwell." 

'i'he  following  morning  I  was  engaged  in  passing  what 
little  baggage  1  nod  brought  with  me  tnrougn  the  Custora 
House,  which  was  done  with  but  little  trouble  or  vexation, 
ns  there  were  no  inquisitivo  searchers  who  make  it  a  point 
to  pry  into  every  Wi'iting-desk,  dressing-case,  and  carpet- 


A   SUBALTERN*  S   FVRLOUOIt. 


3T 


bag.    tn  the  evening  I  again  attended  the  theatre  to  wit- 
ness the  performance  of  the  "  Gladiator,"  a  Philadelphian 
tragedy,  from  the  pen  of  Dr.  Bird.     The  principal  cha- 
racter was  sustained  by  Forrest,  the  Roscius  of  tne  Ame- 
rican stage;  but  I  was  quite  unable  to  judge  either  of  the 
merits  of  the  actor,  or  the  play  itself;  for  being  rather 
late,  the  house  was  so  excessively  crowded,  and  the  gen- 
tlemen, with  scarcely  an  exception,  wearing  their  hats  in 
the  dress  circle,  I  could  only  obtain  an  occasional  view 
of  the  stage.    I  at  first  attributed  the  latter  to  want  of  due 
respect  to  the  ladies,  but  afterwards  came  to  the  more 
charitable  conclusion,  that  it  was  an  ancient  custom  be- 
queathed to  them  by  their  Cluaker  forefathers.     I  caught 
one  glimpse  of  the  star  of  the  night,  and  he  appeared  to 
possess  a  fine  figure,  but  farther,  deponent  knoweth  not. 
An  American  gentleman  told  me  that  Forrest  intended  to 
cross  the  Atlantic,  and  introduce  the  •*  Gladiator  "  upon 
the  English  stage ;  and  that,  if  we  could  only  divest  our- 
selves of  national  prejudices,  he  must  succeed,  for  thu 
play  was  so  admirably  written,  and  so  excellently  per- 
formed I     But  when  I  asked  him,  a  few  evenings  after- 
wards, to  accompany  mo  to  see  young  Kcan,  in  the  part 
of  Cloten,  in  Cymbeline,  which  he  was  performing  for 
the  benefit  of  an  American  actor,  and  was  received  by 
the  audience  in  a  most  flattering  manner,  h«  declined  in 
the  following  words :  "  No :  I  make  it  a  point  never  to 
see  any  thing  English,  only  what  is  truly  American, 
performed." 


VOL.  !.— -D. 


A   subaltern's   rVRLOVGH. 


CHAPTER  III. 


Thouj^h  no  proud  gates,  with  China's  taught  to  vie 

Magnificentlv  useless  strike  the  eye : 

What  thouen  no  arch  of  triumph  is  assigned 

To  laurelM  pride,  whose  sword  has  thinn'd  mankind  ? 

Lo  structures  mark  the  charitable  soil 
For  casual  ill,  maim'd  valour,  feeble  toil, 
Worn  out  with  care,  infirmity,  and  age, 
The  life  here  entering,  quitting  there  the  stage. 

Savage, 

I  NOW  commenced  visiting  all  the  public  institutions. 
Of  charitable  societies  the  number  is  amazing;  probably 
no  city  in  the  world,  of  the  same  population,  possesses 
an  equal  number.  It  may  be  truly  said,  that  it  deserves 
its  name,  of  "  Philadelphia ;"  there  are  upwards  of  thirty 
humane  institutions  and  societies  for  the  relief  of  the 
poor  and  orphans,  besides  above  160  mutual  benefit 
societies,  on  the  principle  of  the  English  clubs ;  being 
associations  of  traaesmon  and  artizans  for  the  support  of 
each  other  in  sickness,  each  member  contributing  monthly 
or  weekly  a  small  sum  to  the  general  fund.  Of  the  pub- 
lic institutions  the  "  Pennsylvania  Hospital"  is  on  the  most 
extensive  scale.  It  is  situated  in  a  central  part  of  the 
city,  near  Washington  Square,  and  was  founded  ci^'hty- 
two  years  since,  Benjamin  Franklin  being  its  greatest 

Promoter.  It  contains  an  excellent  library  of  about 
000  volumes;  and  it  is  calculated  that  about  1400  pa- 
tients ar«  annually  admitted  into  it,  of  which  number 
threc-fiAhs  are  paupers;  the  remainder  paying  for  the 
advantages  they  derive  from  the  institution.  The  build- 
ing occupies  an  immense  extent  of  ground,  and  on  three 
sides  of  It  an  open  space  is  lefl  for  a  free  circulation 
of  air :  the  west  end  of  the  building  is  a  ward  for  insane 
patients,  of  whom  there  are  generally  more  than  100. 
The  necessary  funds  for  the  support  of  the  Hospital  are 
derived  from  the  interest  of  its  capital  stock,  and  from 
the  exhibition  of  West's  splendid  painting  of  Christ 


A.  SUBALTERN  S    FURLOUGH. 


Healing  the  Sick,  which  produces  about  600  dollars  per 
annum,  and  is  exhibited  in  a  building  on  the  northern 
side  of  the  Hospital  Square.  The  artist  intended  to 
have  presented  the  original  painting  to  this  Hospital,  but 
his  poverty  could  not  withstand  the  offer  of  3000/.  made 
for  It  in  England ;  and  it  was  sold  with  the  proviso  that 
he  should  take  a  copy,  which  was  the  one  now  exhibited 
here,  and  presented  conditionally  that  it  should  be  placed 
in  a  house  of  certain  dimensions,  and  that  the  proceeds 
from  its  exhibition,  being  a  charge  of  one  shilling  sterling 
for  each  person,  should  be  added  to  the  Hospital  funds. 
The  painting,  which  contains  fifty-eight  figures,  is  about 
16  by  9  feet,  and  with  two  small  marine  pieces,  which 
ho  painted  when  a  child,  occupies  a  room  m  the  second 
floor  of  a  brick  building,  with  the  light  admitted  from 
the  roof  The  woman  who  has  charge  of  it  has  most 
probably  been  wearied  by  tedious  visitors,  for  she  did  not 
even  accompany  me  up  stairs,  but  left  me  to  admire  its 
beauties  without  interruption. 

On  the  opposite  side  or  the  Hospital,  in  the  open  square, 
is  a  fine  statue  of  Penn,  executed  in  England ;  and  on 
the  western  side  is  the  public  Almshouse,  with  Infirmary 
attached,  another  huge  pile  of  building,  capable  of  con- 
taining 1600  inmates  ;  but  not  being  considered  suffi- 
ciently extensive,  and  objections  being  made  to  its  present 
situation,  a  new  one  is  erecting  on  the  rising  ground  at 
the  opposite  side  of  the  Schuylkill  river,  capablo  of  con- 
taining 3000.  The  institution  is  supported  by  a  rate 
upon  the  people,  and  the  average  number  of  inmates  is 
considerably  above  1000.  There  were  many  lunatics  in 
one  of  tno  wards,  where  I  saw  a  man  with  most  forbid- 
ding countenance  feeding  a  poor  girl  who  was  chained 
to  the  wall,  and  her  hands  confined  in  a  strait  waistcoat ; 
but  I  was  assured  that  such  severe  measures  were  but 
seldom,  and  blows  never,  had  recourse  to.  The  majo- 
rity of  the  insane  patients  were  confined  from  mania- 
potu,  their  number  increasing  as  the  warm  weather 
approached.  I  asked  one  of  them,  who  appeared  rather 
sensible  of  his  wretched  state,  how  he  felt,  Hii  answer 
was,  "  much  better,  but  (shutting  his  eyes  and  conceal- 


\ 


40 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


ing  his  face  on  the  pillow)  I  have  such  horrid  dreams  V 
never  was  ^hakspeare's  ,s 

"  Oh,  that  men  should  put  an  enemy  into  their  mouths,  to  steal 
nway  their  brains !" 

more  dreadfully  illustrated.  The  various  wards  appear- 
ed remarkably  clean,  and  great  attention  was  paid  to  the 
inmates.  I  was  at  first  rather  surprised  to  see  a  small 
tread-wheel  in  an  out-building,  which  was  however  used 
only  for  grinding  grain,  and  not  as  a  mode  of  punish- 
ment. By  thus  taking  advantage  of  the  labour  of  some 
few  able  people,  and  of  some  mechanics  in  the  work- 
shops attached,  part  of  the  expenses  of  the  institution 
are  defrayed. 

Strangers  are  admitted  to  view  the  institution  for  the 
deaf  and  dumb,  a  short  distance  from  the  almshouse, 
during  certain  days  of  the  week,  upon  making  application 
to  one  of  the  directors.  It  was  only  incorporated  eleven 
years  since,  and  endowed  by  a  grant  from  the  legislature, 
with  an  additional  provision  for  the  annual  payment  of 
100  dollars  for  four  years,  for  the  support  of  each  child 
admitted,  with  the  provision  that  such  annual  payment 
shauld  not  exceed  8000  dollars  (1050/.  sterling,)  the  sum 
originally  granted.  The  children,  of  whom  there  are 
about  eighty,  are  instructed  in  various  manufactures,  and 
receive  a  good  moral  education. 

The  Museum,  commenced  by  Charles  Peale,  a  private 
individual,  occupies  the  two  upper  stories  of  a  building, 
called  the  Arcade,  and  contains  an  excellent  collection 
of  stuffed  quadrupeds  and  birds,  also  the  most  perfect 
skeleton  of  a  mammoth  in  the  world ;  the  few  bones 
which  were  not  perfect,  or  could  not  bo  found,  being 
supplied  by  an  excellent  imitation  in  wood.  The  ske- 
leton was  discovered  in  a  morass,  in  Ulster  County, 
state  of  New- York,  in  1708,  and  was  dug  out  of  it  after 
much  labour  and  expense  by  the  founder  of  the  Museum, 
in  IbOl.  Two  paintings  represent  the  machinery  which 
was  used  for  pumping  out  the  water,  and  raising  the 
enormous  skeleton,  'iriere  is  a  tradition  respecting  the 
animal  as  delivered  in  the  terms  of  a  Shawanee  Indian, 
>vho  described  the  terrific  monster  as  follows  :«»•"  Ten 


V 

II 


P 
ti 

ii 

b 

u 

k 
a: 
o 
v 
ti 


\\ 


A  8UBA.LTERN  S   FURLOUGH. 


«■ 


.» 


thousand  moons  ago,  when  nought  but  gloomy  forests 
covered  this  lani  of  the  slanting  sun,  long  before  the 
pale  men,  with  thunder  and  fire  at  their  command, 
rushed  on  the  wings  of  the  wind,  to  ruin  the  garden  of 
nature — when  nought  but  the  untamed  wanderers  of  the 
woods,  and  men  as  unrestrained  as  they,  were  the  lords 
of  the  soil — a  race  of  animals  were  in  being,  huge  as 
the  frowning  precipice,  cruel  as  the  bloody  panther,  swift 
as  the  descending  eagle,  and  terrible  as  the  angel  of  night 
— the  pines  crashed  beneath  their  feet,  and  the  lake 
shrunk  when  they  slaked  their  thirst ;  the  powerful  javelin 
in  ^mn  was  hurled,  and  the  barbed  arrow  fell  harmless 
from  their  side,  Forests  were  laid  waste  at  a  meal,  the 
groans  of  expiring  animals  were  everywhere  heard,  and 
whole  villages  inhabited  by  man  were  destroyed  in  a 
moment,"  &c.  &c.  The  skeleton  of  an  elephant  which 
is  placed  by  its  side,  appears  a  very  diminutive  animal. 
Amongst  the  objects  of  curiosity  are  Washington's  sash, 
presented  by  himself,  an  obelisk  of  wood  from  the  elm 
tree  under  which  Penn  made  his  treaty  with  the  Indians, 
in  1660,  and  a  manuscript  poem  of  Major  Andre's,  written 
but  two  months  previous  to  his  execution.  It  is  a  satire 
upon  the  failure  of  General  Wayne,  in  an  expedition 
wnich  he  commanded  for  the  purpose  o^  collecting  cattle 
for  the  American  army ;  it  is  entitled  the  "  Cow  Chase," 
and  ihe  first  stanza  )s  almost  copied  literally  from  the 
old  English  Ballad  of  "  Chevy  Chase."  He  is  very  se- 
vere upon  the  American  General,  amongst  whose  cap- 
tured baggage,  he  enumerates  the  following  articles  : 

"  His  Congross  dollars,  and  his  prog,  ' 

His  tiiilitary  speeches,  ■ 

His  Conislock  wliiskcy  for  his  grog, 
Black  stockings  and  silk  breeches." 

and  concludes  his  Poem  with  a  check  to  his  satire— 

"  Lest  this  same  warrior*d rover,  Wayne, 
Sliould  catch  tho  poet,  and  hang  him." 

It  is  n  sinp^ular  fact  that  the  the  militia-men  who  took 
the  unfortunate  Andrd  prisoner,  were  a  porty  from  tho 
nrmy  under  the  immediate  command  of  Wayne;  his 


43 


A  subaltern's  furlovoh. 


subsequent  unhappy  fate  is  too  well  known.    There  is 
also  an  interesting  gallery  of  200  original  portraits, 

Srincipally  of  those  who  signed  the  Declaration  of  In- 
ependence,  and  the  officers  who  figured  in  the  revolu- 
tionary war,  during  which  period  most  of  the  likenesses 
were  taken. 

The  lower  part  of  the  Arcade,  which  was  built  for  shops, 
has  caused  a  severe  pecuniary  loss  to  the  stockholders, 
who  asked  too  high  a  rent  for  them  in  the  first  instance, 
60  that  not  one-half  of  them  were  let,  and  the  mania  for 
visiting  the  building  has  long  since  died  away.  It  is  a 
beautiful  structure,  with  marble  fronts  of  100  feet,  and 
150  deep ;  costing,  together  with  the  ground,  upwards 
of  160,000  dollars  (34,000/.  sterling.) 

The  State  House,  which  has  one  front  in  Chesnut 
Street,  and  the  other  in  Independence  Square,  is  the 
most  interesting  building  in  the  city,  and  being  more 
than  a  century  old,  bears  some  marks  of  antiquity :  it 
occupies  a  great  extent  of  ground,  having  the  courts 
and  public  offices  attached.  There  is  a  thoroughfare 
through  the  ground  .fioor  from  the  street  into  the  square. 
until  nine  o'clock  at  night,  when  the  gates  are  closed. 
On  one  side  of  it  is  the  Mayor's  Court,  which  was  hold- 
ing one  of  its  four  stated  sessions  at  this  time ;  and  on  the 
opposite  side  is  the  room  in  which  the  celebrated  Decla- 
ration of  Independence  was  drawn  up,  and  which  was 
read  from  the  steps  in  front  of  the  building  on  the  4th 
of  July,  1770.  Some  Goth  in  office  modernized  the  room, 
for  the  purpose,  as  I  was  informed,  of  giving  his  nephew 
a  Job,  and  tore  down  all  the  old  pannelling  and  pillars 
wtiich  supported  the  ceiling,  and  substituted  a  coating 
of  plaster  and  paint.  It  is  a  matter  of  surprise  to  me 
that  the  inhabitants  ever  permitted  such  a  profanation, 
being  generally  so  ;mroud  of  their  revolutionary  relics 
and  deeds  of  arms.  Those  who  now  have  charge  of  the 
buildino'  are  busily  engaged  in  discarding  every  indica- 
tion of  their  predecessors'  taste,  and  are  restoring  the  room 
to  its  original  state.  At  the  upper  end  of  it,  there  is  a 
wooden  statue  of  Washington — the  work  of  a  cutter  of 
ships'  figure  heads.    The  profile  is  considered  excellent, 


una 
id 


til 


and  he  is  represented  with  his  right  foot  upon  the  torn 


A.   SUBALTERN'S   FURLOUGH. 


bond  which  cemented  the  colonies  to  the  mother  country. 
On  the  pedestal  is  the  following  inscription : 

"  First  in  War, 
First  in  Peace, 
First  in  the  hearts  of  his  Countrymen." 

It  is  intended  to  fill  a  vacant  niche  behind  the  figure, 
which  formerly  contained  the  arms  of  England,  with  a 
brass  plate  bearing  the  Declaration  of  Independence  as 
an  inscription.  The  building  is  surmounted  by  a  tower, 
the  lower  part  of  which  is  brick ;  and  the  upper,  of 
wood,  was  added  in  1828,  imitating  as  closely  as  possi- 
ble the  original  one,  which,  being  much  decayed,  was 
taken  down  soon  after  the  Revolution.  I  had  a  very 
talkative  old  man  to  show  me  over  it,  who  was  a  per- 
fect match  for  any  of  our  Westminster,  St.  Paul's,  or 
Tower  guides.  The  bell  in  the  brick  tower  was  cast 
in  1753,  with  the  following  inscription  upon  it,  well 
speaking  the  spirit  of  the  times,  which  did  not,  however, 
burst  forth  until  after  the  expiration  of  20  years : — 

"  Proclaim  liberty  in  the  land  to  all  tlie  inhabitants  thereof. — Lt- 
vitkus,  25  chap.  10  verse.  By  order  of  the  Assembly  of  the  Pro- 
vince of  PennsylTunia,  for  the  State  House  of  Philadelphia." 

My  old  conductor  rested  one  hand  upon  a  supporter, 
while  I  was  copying  the  above  inscription,  and  then  fa- 
voured me  with  a  long  dissertation  upon  the  blessings 
of  liberty,  and  an  abusive  tirade  against  the  English, 
winding  up  his  discourss  with  informing  me  that  the  bell 
was  rung  when  the  Catholics  gained  their  liberty  in  the 
old  country.  He  took  me  up  to  the  wooden  tower,  and 
descanted  largely  on  the  fine  mechanism  of  the  clock ; 
how  many  revolutions  such  a  wheel  performed  in  a  mi- 
nute, and  the  thickness  of  each  bar  in  the  works ;  how, 
when  he  discovered  a  fire  in  the  city,  he  tolled  the  bell, 
80  as  to  inform  the  inhabitants  in  what  quarter  it  was. 
One  toll  signified  north,  two  south,  three  cast,  and  four 
west ;  making  a  short  pause  between  the  tolls,  as,  one, 
nnd  after  a  short  interval  of  time,  three  in  rapid  suc- 
cession, signified  north-east:  the  streets  running  towards 


>; 


M 


44 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


the  cardinal  points,  the  situation  of  the  fire  eonld  be 
easily  ascertained  by  the  firemen,  tiaving  then  led  me 
on  to  the  outer  gallery  of  the  tower,  and  pointed  out  the 
various  buildings  in  the  panorama  beneath,  and  after  ex- 
pressing his  sorrow  that  the  room  where  Congress  sat 
during  the  greater  part  of  the  immortal  struggle  for  free- 
dom should  have  been  mutilated,  we  parted. 

I  attended  the  District  Court,  which  was  sitting  in  a 
large  carpeted  room  on  the  second  floor,  to  witness  the 
trial  of  an  information,  filed  by  the  Attorney  of  the  Unit- 
ed States,  against  goods  landed  without  being  mention* 
ed  in  the  ship's  invoice.  There  were  not  more  than 
twenty  people  present  when  I  entered,  and  a  counsel, 
attired  in  a  blue  coat  and  black  stock,  was  commencing 
his  address  to  the  jury :  he  possessed  great  fluency  of 
language,  and  spoke  warmly  m  defence  of  his  client,  an 
Englishman.  On  a  marble  slab,  in  a  recess  at  the  back 
of  the  judges'  seat,  is  the  following  inscription  to  the 
memory  of  Washington's  nephew : 

>'       "This  Tablet  records 
the  affection  and  respect 
Of  the  Members  of  the  Philadelphia  Bar,  for 
BUSHROD  WASHINGTON, 
,     An  Associate  Justice  of  the  Supreme  Court 
of  the  United  States, 
alike  distinguished 
,     '  For  simplicity  of  manners 

And  j)urity  of  heart, 
Fearless,  dignified,  and  enlightened  as  a  Judge, 
No  influence  or  interest 
Could  touch  his  integrity  or 
Bias  his  Judgment, 
A  ze«dous  Patriot  and  a.  Pious  Christian. 

He  died  at  Philadelphia, 

On  the  26th  of  November,  A.  D.  1829, 

Leaving  his  professional  brethren 

A  spotUss  fame, 

And  to  his  country 

The  learning,  labour,  and  wisdom, 

Of  a  long  judicial  life." 

Independence  Smiare,  about  270  paces  each  way,  is 
prettily  laid  out  with  walks  and  fine  trees,  and  surroun- 
ded by  a  strong  iron  railing ;  but  Washington,  the  ad- 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


# 


ad- 


joining one,  is  both  larger  and  a  more  fashionable  pro- 
menade,  being  crowded  between  the  hours  of  five  and 
six  in  the  evening  with  elegantly  dressed  females.  The 
greatest  objection  to  the  manner  in  which  all  the  squares 
are  laid  out  is,  that  the  grass  is  allowed  to  grow ;  and 
when  I  was  in  Philadelphia,  labourers  were  making  hay 
in  them.  In  this,  as  in  other  instances,  the  Americans 
prefer  profit  to  appearances,  or  even  comfort.  A  statue 
or  monument  is  shortly  to  grace  the  centre  of  Washing, 
ington  s(|uare,  which  was  a  burial  ground,  or  Potter's- 
field,  as  It  is  termed,  during  the  time  the  yellow-fever 
raged  so  violently  in  the  city,  at  the  end  of  the  last  cen- 
tury. 

The  twenty-first  annual  exhibition  of  the  Pennsylva- 
nia Academy  of  Fine  Arts)  was  holding  in  a  spacious 
building  constructed  for  the  express  purpose,  containing 
a  fine  rotunda  with  dome,  and  several  galleries  for  paint- 
ings and  statues,  or  casts  from  celebrated  busts :  there 
are  several  specimens  of  Canova's  and  Chantrey's  sculp- 
ture in  the  collection,  which  is  extensive ;  but  I  was  no 
judge  of  its  value,  nor  could  the  catalogue  which  I  pur- 
chased at  the  door,  give  me  much  information  as  to  the 
i;  -ulptors'  names.     Amongst  the  paintings,  were  some 
by  Salvator  Rosa,  Vandyke,  Rembrandt,  West,  Shee  (Pre- 
sident R.  A.,)  Leslie  (R.  A.,)  and  a  large  one  of  "  The 
dead  Man  restored  to  Life,  by  touching  the  bones  of  the 
prophet  Elisha,"  by  Washington  Alston ;  but  the  greater 
proportion  of  the  remainder  displayed  little  talent — the 
)ortraits  were  young  and  stiff  performances ;  but  I  was 
jrobably  more  inclined  to  be  fastidious  from  having  so 
ately  viewed  West's  noble  effort ;  and  left  the  gallery 
with  a  very  mean  opinion  of  American  artists  in  gene- 
ral. 

The  great  lion,  however,  of  Philadelphia,  is  the  enor- 
mous line-of-battle  ship,  the  Pennsylvania,  which  ia  on 
the  stocks  in  the  Navy-yard  at  the  lower  extremity  of 
the  city.  I  took  advantage  of  the  kindness  of  an  officer 
in  the  American  service,  to  walk  over  it ;  and  he  also 
favoured  me  with  its  dimensions : — the  keel  was  laid  in 
18S3,  and  the  vessel  finished  to  its  present  state  in  seven 
years ;  the  timber  being  exposed  to  a  free  circulation  of 


I 

;( 


!  ( 


46 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


'  air  for  the  prevention  of  dry  rot ;  it  could,  howerer,  be 
prepared  for  sea  in  six  months.  The  shed  which  protects 
it  from  the  weather  is  270  feet  in  length,  105  in  height 
and  84  in  breadth,  with  a  reservoir  at  the  top  of  the  roof, 
which  can  be  filled  with  water  by  means  of  a  force- 
pump,  the  city  water-works  throwing  it  within  15  feet 
of  the  summit.  The  upper  deck  is  220  feet  in  length, 
and  no  forecastle ;  the  extreme  breadth  of  beam  58  feet ; 
depth  from  spar  deck  to  keelson,  44  feet  4  inches ;  and 
draft  of  water  27  feet  6  inches.  Her  decks  are  7  feet 
high,  and  from  the  orlop  to  the  gun-deck  is  7  feet  4 
inches.  The  anchors  were  wrought  at  Plymouth,  Mas- 
sachusetts, and  the  sheet  anchor  weighs  10,171  lbs. 
When  manned,  she  will  carry  a  crew  of  1600,  including 
120  marines,  and  from  140  to  160  guns  ;  but  is  rated  at 
the  former  number,  70  of  which  are  32-pounders  weigh- 
ing 61  cwt.  each ;  38  42-pound  carronades  of  27  cwt., 
and  32  42-pounders  weighing  76  cwt.  1  qr.  each.  The 
spars  for  it  are  not  yet  made,  but  the  main-mast  will  be 
135  feet  in  height,  and  44  inches  in  diameter;  and  the 
extreme  height  from  the  keelson  to  the  summit  of  the 
flag-pole,  upwards  of  300  feet :  the  guns  were  cast  at 
Georgetown,  near  the  city  of  Washington. 

Another  shed  near  it  contains  a  double-banked  fri- 
gate of  60  guns,  whose  keel  was  laid  in  1819,  and  could 
be  fitted  out  for  sea  in  forty  days :  the  state  cabins  are 
panneled  with  mahogany  and  white  maple;  the  gun 
carriages  of  white,  and  the  principal  timbers  of  green 
oak :  both  vessels  are  considered  by  the  Americans  as 
well-built,  and  the  frigate  as  a  perfect  model.  Much 
trouble  will  be  experienced  in  launching  them ;  for,  the 
stocks  being  situated  in  a  bight  of  the  river,  tho  mud  has 
collected  in  great  quantities  from  the  eddies  of  the  tide, 
and  dry  land  is  forming  quickly  between  the  keels  and 
the  river.  The  operation  of  reclaiming  a  large  space  of 
land  about  two  miles  in  length,  by  a  quarter  in  breadth, 
adjoining  the  Navy-yard,  was  taking  place  at  this  time. 
It  appeared  that  some  speculating  person  had  obtained 
a  grant  of  it,  much  to  the  chagrin  of  the  land  owners  on 
the  river's  bank,  who  considered  that  their  title  extended 
to  low,  instead  of,  as  was  decided  by  law,  to  high<wat«r 


A  SUBALTERN'S  FURLOUGH. 


mark:  the  fortunate  speculator  thus  gained  possession  of 
a  great  space  of  land,  which  before  the  lapse  of  many 
years  will  be  thickly  corered  with  houses. 

The  old  hulk  of  the  Cyane,  of  36  guns,  a  trophy  dur- 
ing the  late  war,  is  moored  alongside  the  pier  near  the 
frigate,  though  it  can  scarcely  be  kept  aHoat,  and  is 
quite  unserviceable.  The  Navy-yard  is  small,  compared 
to  any  of  those  in  England,  but  considerable  additions 
were  making:  the  barracks  in  it  will  contain  150  men, 
and  from  60  to  70  were  doing  duty  there  at  this  time ; 
their  undress  uniform,  a  shabby-looking  French  gray, 
gave  them  any  thing  but  a  military  appearance ;  their 
full-dress  of  dark  blue  is  much  neater,  nor  could  I  ever 
understand  why  it  was  not  usually  worn. 

A  fine  Marine  Asylum  is  building  near  the  road  to 
Gray's  Ferry,  a  short  distsmce  from  the  city,  on  a  most 
capacious  plan ;  the  front  of  it  being  little  less  than  400 
feet  in  length,  and  a  broad  double  verandah  upon  two 
sides. 

The  scenery  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Philadelphia 
is  tame  and  uninteresting,  with  the  exception  of  one  or 
two  spots  on  the  banks  of  the  Schuylkill,  where  the  face 
of  the  country  is  rather  more  broken  and  abrupt ;  assum- 
ing in  some  places  rather  a  romantic  appearance. 
Advantage  has  been  taken  of  these  by  gentlemen  who 
have  laid  out  their  grounds  with  good  taste,  and  much 
improved  their  farms  by  adopting  the  English  system  of 
agriculture.  The  citizens  are  permitted  to  walk  through 
the  wardens  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year — a  liberty 
which  to  their  credit  is  but  little  abused.  The  greatest 
lounge,  however,  for  the  inhabitants,  appears  to  be  the 
Fair  Mount  Water-works,  upon  the  excellence  of  which 
they  very  justly  pride  themselves ;  and  at  last,  having 
expended  a  million  of  dollars  in  experiments,  they  have 
discovered  a  plan  at  once  economical  and  serviceable. 
All  attempts  having  failed,  at  an  enormous  expense,  to 
supply  the  demand  for  water  in  the  city,  it  was  deter- 
mmed  to  lay  aside  the  use  of  steam  for  the  introduction 
of  water  power;  and  the  present  works  were  com- 
menced in  1819,  by  throwing  a  dam  1600  feet  in  length, 
at  an  obtuse  angle  across  the  Schuylkill,  so  as  to  be  less 


\ 


(;■ 


I) 


il; 


46 


A  SVBALTGRX'S  FURLOVOH 


exposed  to  the  force  of  the  current.  A  mill  238  feet  in 
len^h,  containing  several  double  forcing-pumps,  is  situ- 
ated  immediatelyl)elow  the  dam  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
rirer,  with  a  race-way  to  lead  the  water  over  eight 
wheels  about  sixteen  feet  in  diameter,  which  can  force 
nearly  seven  millions  of  gallons  of  water  per  day  into 
the  reservoir  on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  100  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  river,  and  60  above  the  highest  part  of 
the  city.  They  contain  nearly  twenty  millions  of  gallons : 
and  tine  present  consumption  of  water  does  not  exceed 
two  millions,  and  in  the  winter  months  one  million  per 
day.  The  expenses  of  the  mill  are  but  four  dollars  (16*. 
8</,)  two  men  being  sufficient  to  attend  the  works; 
while  that  of  steam  was  206  dollars  per  day,  and  did  not 
raise  half  the  quantity.  The  Corporation  are  improving 
the  gardens  attuchecf  to  the  works,  by  the  introduciion  of 
fountains,  statues,  &c.  They  are  a  place  of  groat  resort 
for  strangers,  to  whom  the  simple  and  ingenious  machine- 
ry proves  very  interesting,  and  the  gates  are  daily  be- 
set by  a  large  assemblage  of  carriages.  A  wooden  bridge 
of  a  single  arch,  of  the  enormous  span  of  340  feet,  cross- 
es the  Schuylkill  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  water- 
works ;  being  fiflcen  feet  narrower  in  the  centre  than  at 
the  abutments ;  with  a  roof  and  windows  at  the  sides, 
which  are  walled  in,  as  a  protection  against  the  weather; 
it  presents  a  singular  appearance  to  a  person  who  has 
been  accustomed  to  more  substantial,  but  lighter-looking 
structures.  There  is  a  second  wooden  bridge  nearly  a 
mile  below  this  one,  with  three  arches  and  stone  piers ; 
a  marble  obelisk  at  one  extremity  of  it  states  that  the  cost 
of  its  construction  was  300,000  dollars  (02,600f.>  and 
recounts  the  ^reat  hardships  and  fatigue  the  workmen 
experienced  in  laying  the  foundation  of  the  piers :  the 
lengtli  of  the  bridge  with  its  abutments,  is  1300  feet ; 
the  space  of  the  centre  arch  being  105,  and  the  width  of 
the  road  upon  it  43  feet.  One  of  the  niors  was  commen- 
ced in  the  middle  of  winter,  800,000  tent  of  timber  being 
employed  in  the  construction  of  the  coflbr-dam :  the  ma- 
sonry of  the  pi<<r  was  begun  on  Christmas  day,  1802, 
and  finished  to  low  water  mark  in  41  days  andf nights; 
though  the  foundation  wbi  on  the  rock  at  the  amaxing 


A  bubaltbrn's  furlough. 


■m. 


)l 


kmen 
the 
feet ; 
thof 
men- 
)eing 
ema- 

ma, 

ffhts; 
ampr 


'^epl'h  of  41  feet  below  the  sur&ce  of  the  water ;  being, 
it  18  supposed,  the  greatest  depth  at  which  regular  ma- 
f  sonary  has  ever  been  constructed.  Seven  months  were 
I  occupied  in  preparing  the  dam  and  repairing  damages ; 
the  subaqueous  work  consuming  in  fact  a  great  propor- 
tion of  the  expenditure. 

I  had  heard  much  of  the  expertness  of  the  Philadelphia 
firemen,  and  feared  I  should  be'^'disappointed  in  my 
hopes  of  witnessing  it.  A  few  days,  however,  before  I 
quitted  the  city,  hearing  the  alarm-bell,  I  ran  out,  and, 
remembering  the  old  man's  instructions  at  the  State 
House,  took  the  requisite  direction  Though  I  hurried 
as  speedily  as  possible  to  the  scene  of  action,  when  I  arriv- 
ed, upwards  oi  fifteen  engines  and  hose-carriages  were  in 
full  play  upon  the  firo,  which  had  gained  considerable 
head :  but  such  un  immense  flood  of  water  was  poured 
upon  it,  that  it  was  shortly  extinguished.  I  afterwards 
walked  to  the  house  in  which  the  carriageof  the  American 
Hose  Company  was  kept,  when  some  of  the  members 
very  kindly  drew  out  the  carriage,  and  gave  me  a  copy 
of  the  rules  and  by-laws  they  had  established.  It  was 
decorated  and  painted  in  a  most  costly  manner,  and, 
with  1000  feet  of  hose,  had  been  purchased  for  1600 
dollars  (250/.,)  bearing  the  well-executed  classical  device 
of  the  car  of  Tydides  and  Nestor  at  the  siege  of  Troy, 
as  represented  in  Westall's  (R.  A.)  painting,  and  the 
moKo  "  non  sibi  sod  omnibus.".  The  other  carriages 
were  all  neatly  painted  and  decorated  in  a  similar 
manner.  There  are  about  thirty  engine  and  sixteen  hose 
companies;  but  all  the  firemen,  unlike  those  in  other 
«ilies,  are  volunteers,  and  defray  the  expenses  of  their 
engines  from  their  own  private  funds  ;  the  first  com- 
pany of  the  kind  being  established  by  Dr.  Frnnklin. 
The  hose  formed  upon  tVe  some  spirited  principle  as 
the  engine  companies,  were  established  for  the  purpose 
of  lup^ying  tho  latter  with  water  in  greater  (luantiticN 
than  the  old  system  of  carrying  it  in  buckets.  Lach  car- 
riage has  a  large  cylindrical  roller  in  the  centre,  round 
which  the  hose  is  lapped,  with  brass  screws  and  joints 
ut  intervals  of  about  60  feet  through  its  entire  length. 
One  end  is  screwed  into  a  street  plug,  and  the  water 
VOL.   I.— B. 


11. 


V 


ISO 


A  'svbaltern's  rvRLOVoa 


forced  through  the  hose  to  the  engine,  which  can  have 
a  greater  supply  of  water  than  required.  The  hose 
companies  who  arrive  first  at  the  fire  taking  the  nearest 
plugs,  fend  their  surplus  hose  to  the  last  comers,  who 
are  thi'S  enabled  to  hring  the  water  from  almost  anv 
distance  in  the  adjoining  streets.  There  are  about  100 
members  in  each  company,  generally  young  merchants 
and  tradesmen,  amongst  whom  there  is  a  great  esprit  de 
corps,  and  anxiety  to  reach  a  fire  before  any  other  com- 
pany. Fines  are  imposed  upon  members  who  attend 
upon  such  occasions  uneauipped  in  their  thick  water- 
proof dress,  and  glazed  hat,  with  badgn  upon  it,  or 
who  leave  a  fire  without  permission  from  a  director ; 
and  there  are  many  other  similar  regulations.  Each 
member  also  pays  a  certain  sum  upon  nis  entrance  into 
the  company,  and  a  small  annual  subscription.  It  was 
an  interesting  sight  to  witness  the  regularity  with  which 
the  various  companies  moved  rapidly  through  the  streets 
at  night  to  the  place  where  their  services  were  re<j|uired, 
by  the  lights  oi  numerous  torches,  and  with  the  ringing 
of  the  large  bells  suspended  from  the  cars ;  and,  after 
the  fire  was  extinguished,  all  moved  away  to  their  respec- 
tive station-houses,  where  thu  roll  was  called  over,  to 
ascertain  the  absentees.  Such  an  enthusiastic  public 
spirit  is  doubtless  kept  alive  only  by  the  constant  call 
for  the  services  of  the  young  men  ;  and  every  fire  will 
tend  to  diminish  it  in  some  decree,  an  edict  having 
been  lately  passed,  by  which  a  heavy  fine  is  imposed 
upon  any  one  erecting  a  frame  house  within  the  limits 
or  the  city. 

The  Bank  of  the  United  States  (or,  as  the  Americans 
term  it.  Uncle  Sam's  strong  bo.x)  was  commenced  in 
1810,  after  the  plan  of  the  Parthenon  at  Athens,  omitting 
most  of  the  merely  decorative  parts  of  the  building ; 
and  is  situated  in  Chesnut-street,  the  most  fnshoinable 
street  in  the  city.  The  building  is  entirely  of  white  mar- 
ble (101  by  87  feet,)  the  porticoes  at  each  end  being  sup- 
ported by  eight  Doric  columns,  each  87  feet  in  height, 
an'!  4  feet  0  inches  in  diameter.  When  viewed  by 
moon  liffht,  I  think  I  never  saw  any  thing  more  loft  or 
beautiftiL      The  banking-room,  in   the  centre  of  the 


A  subaltern's  fvklouoh. 


« 


mar- 


id 


buDding.  is  81  by  48,  and  35  feet  ia  height,  with  a 
tesselated  floor  of  American  and  Italian  marble  ;  upon 
each  side  of  it  are  rooms  for  the  directors,  engravers, 
and  copper-plate  printers.  The  capital  of  th«)  hank  is 
35,030,009  dollars,  or  rather  more  than  7\  millions  ster- 
ling, divided  into  350,009  shares  of  100  dollars  each  ; 
the  Government  being  proprietors  of  one-fifth.  It  has 
twenty-two  branch  banks,  distributed  in  various  parts 
o(  the  Union.  Great  consternation  was  created  amongst 
the  directors,  during  my  residence  in  the  country,  by  tne 
promulgation  of  General  Jackson's  veto  upon  the  bank 
charter,  which  will  expire  in  1836.  The  original  charter 
was  granted  for  twenty  years:  and  a  bill  for  renewing 
it  from  the  3d  of  March,  1636,  had  passed  both  houses  of 
Congress,  but  did  not  receive  the  assent  of  the  President. 
His  veto  most  fully  laid  before  the  people  his  rea  ons  for 
taking  so  decisive  a  step ;  some  of  the  strongest  being, 
that,  "out  of  twenty-five  millions  of  private  stock  in  the 
corporation,  eight  and  a  half  millions  wore  held  by 
foreigners,  mostly  of  Great  Britain  ;'*  and  that  from 
.wo  to  five  millions  of  specie  crossed  the  Atlantic  every 
year  to  pay  the  bank  dividends  ;  that,  out  of  the  twenty- 
five  directors  of  the  bank,  twenty  were  chosen  by  the 
citizens  stockholders, — all  foreign  stockholders  being 
excluded  from  having  any  voice  in  these  elections  ; 
that  foreigners  already  possessed  about  one-third  of  the 
itock ;  and  that  the  entire  control  of  the  institution  would 
necessarily  fall  into  the  hands  of  a  few  citizen  stock- 
holders j  and  the  ease  with  which  the  object  would  be 
accomplished,  would  be  a  temptation  to  designing 
men  to  secure  the  control  in  their  own  hands,  by 
mononolizinff  the  remaining  stock  ;  and  thus  would 
there  be  thedanger  of  the  President  and  Directors,  Mng 
able  to  elect  themselves  from  year  to  year,  and  manage 
the  whole  concerns  of  the  bank,  without  responsibility  or 
control  ;  nnd  that  great  evils  might  arise  to  the  country 
from  such  a  concentration  of  power,  in  the  hands  of  a  few 
men,  who  were  not  responsible  to  the  people.  Should 
the  stock  of  the  bank  pass  into  the  hanus  of  foreigners, 
and  the  United  States  bo  at  war  with  their  country, 
their  own  fundi  would  be  used  in  support  of  the  hostile 


52 


A  SUBALTERN'S  FITRLOVOR. 


\ 


fleets  and  armies. — The  President  then  recommends  a  ' 
bank  purely  American,  and  thinks  it  would  be  expedient 
to  prohibit  the  sale  of  its  stock  to  foreigners,  under 
penalty  of  absolute  forfeiture  :  he  says,  too,  that  it  is 
no  argument  in  favour  of  re-cnartering  the  bank,  "  that 
the  calling  in  its  loans  will  produce  great  distress  ;  for, 
if  it  has  been  well  managedf,  the  pressure  will  be  light 
in  winding  up  the  concerns ;  and,  if  badly  managed, 
the  severity  of  the  pressure  will  be  the  fault  of  tho 
bank,  and  it  must  be  responsible ;  and  that,  if  it  produce 
difitross,  it  will  furnish  a  reason  against  renewing  a 
power  which  has  been  so  obviously  abused."     From  i 
the  day  this  veto  was  issued,  the  popular  cry  became,  \ 
'*  Down  with  the  bank,  and  no  English  lords,  or  moneyed 
tristoVi'acy." 


ends  a  ' 
pedient 
,  under 
It  it  is 
,  "  that 
8  ;  for, 
3  light 
naged, 
of  the 
roduce 
ring  a 
From  I 
ecame,  \ 
>neyed 


f  IIKB^LTBIUI'S  rVBIbOUOH. 


CHAPTER  I¥. 


!» 


No  tye  hath  seen  lueh  aurecrowi ! 
Coventry  with  them,  thiol's  flat. 


I  imnU  act  march  through 
S^EiPBfai' 


He  feed^  von  ainw-house,  neat,  but  void  of  state. 
Where  a^  and  want  sit  smiling  at  the  gate  ; 
Him  portion'd  maids,  apprenticed  ophans  blest. 
The  young  who  labour,  and  tlie  old  who  rest. 


Pora. 


As  he  passed  by  Coldbath  Fields,  he  saw 

A  solitary  cell — 
And  the  Devil  was  charm'd,  for  it  grave  him  a  hint 

For  improving  the  prisons  of  hell. 

PORSON. 

The  Philadelphians,  and  I  think  I  may  include  the 
Americans  in  general,  have  a  great  rage  for  playing  at 
soldiers,  and  fondness  for  military  display :  scarcely  a 
day  elapsed  on  which  I  did  not  see  either  the  Jackson 
Guards,  Hibernian  Greens,  Washington  Greys,  Philadel- 
phia Blues,  or  some  such  named  troops,  parading  with 
Dands  of  music  up  one  street  and  down  another,  until 
they  had  run  nearly  the  gauntlet  of  the  whole  city,  when 
they  weio  dismissed.     There  was  nothing  objectionable 
in  their  appearance  as  volunteers,  for  all  were  particu- 
larly  well  clothed,  with  clean  and  neat  accoutrements  ; 
and,  as  to  stature,  many  were  exceedingly  fine-looking 
companies;  but  although  they  could  keep  stop  in  march- 
ing, diminish  their  front  in  a  narrow  part  of  the  street, 
and  wheel  to  the  right  and  left  at  the  corners  tolerably 
well,  yet  the  words  of  command  which  wore  frequently 
given  savoured  but  little  of  a  military  education,  or  at 
if  much  attention  had  been  paid  to  the  study  of  the  evolu- 
tions.    They  have  also  a  singtilar  custom  (certainly 
*    well  adnptedf  for  keeping  up  u  feeling  of  good  will  be- 
tween dineront  States)  ofentiro  companies  visiting  each 
other;  and  they  arc  frequently  put  to  considerable  ex- 
c.jnie  in  providing  for  visitors  upon  so  extensive  a  scale. 
I  raw  a  company  of  the  State  Fenciblei  about  seventy 

9^ 


54 


▲  subaltern's  FURLOtrOR. 


strong,  with  a  negro  band  of  music  at  their  head,  leave 
Philadelphia  on  a  visit  to  some  Boston  troops  at  the  dis- 
tance of  three  hundred  miles,  where  they  would  be  most 
hospitably  treated,  and  live  at  the  expense  of  those  to 
whom  the.visit  was  made.     The  Bostonians  would  pro- 
bably in  the  course  of  the  summer  return  the  compliment 
in  due  form.    It  may  be  supposed  that  these  visits  create 
a  great  stir  in  the  city;   one  company  escorts  another 
into  the  place,  and  several  others  accompany  it  to  see  the 
different  sights ;  their  bands  give  the  citizens  a  musical 
treat  at  the  theatre ;  and  the  corps  have  more  marching 
and  parading,  in  a  ten  days'  visit,  than  a  regiment  of  the 
line  would  have  to  undergo  in  a  whole  month  of  peaceable 
times.     When  the  State  Fenciblcs  embarked  on  board 
the  steamer  which  was  to  convey  them  forty  miles  up 
the  Delaware,  the  vessels  at  anchor,  the  wharfs,  streets, 
and  houses  were  filled   with  spectators,  who,   as  the 
steamer  pushed  off,  and  the  band  struck  up  the  national 
air  of  "  Yankee  Doodle,"  gave  three  such  exhilarating 
cheers  that  a  person  might  have   imagined   the  detach- 
ment was  proceeding  upon  some  dangerous  expedition, 
instead  of  a  feasting  and  sight-seeing  visit  to  their  breth- 
ren  "down   East."      These  volunteer  corps  are  com- 
posed of  rosnictablc  young  men,    who  form    hemselves 
mto  companies,  for  the  purpose  of  avoiding  being  called 
out  to  the  militia  training.?,    which  take  place  annually, 
and  which  are  generally  much  more  ludicrous  than  is  re- 
presented even  in  England,  and  where  the  citizen  sol- 
diers learn  more  that  would  unfit  them  for  actual  service, 
in  one  training,  than  six  months'  severe  good  drill  would 
break  them  of     The  system  is  altogether  deprecated  by 
every  reasonable  man  in  the  United  Slates;  and  all  exer- 
tions are  made  to  cast  ridictile  upon,  and  bring  it  into  dis- 
repute.    One  man  will  appear  upon  parade  with  a  top- 
boot  on  one  leg,  a  silk  stocking  on  the  other,  and  a 
broom  stick  over  his  shoulder ;  while  his  rear-rank  man 
has  one  arm  labelled  "  rigtu,  '  the  other  "left,"  a  wooden 
sword,  a  pair  cf  green  spectaclea,  and  no  coat.  The  offi- 
cers being  appointed  by  votes,  an  ostler  at  a  small  ta- 
vern in  Philadelphia  bore  the  high  commission  of  Colo- 
nel, and  was  carried  about  the  country  in  a  raree-show, 


A  8VBALTBR!f'8  VVRhOVOft. 


65 


as  the  gallant  Colonel  Pluck.    A  regiment  also  appear- 
ed in  New- York,  clothed  in  every  imaginable  costume, 
from  a  bare-legged  Highlander  down  to  the  turbanned 
Turk.     Some  poor  man,  however,  had  a  greater  mar- 
tinet for  a  captain  than  is  generally  the  case,  and  was 
ordered  off  parade  to  change  his  dress,  and  return  pro- 
perly equipped,   "  which  order  (to  use  the  man's  own 
words)  he  considered  unmilitary  and  illegal,  and  there- 
fore respectfully  declined  to  obey."     For  this  act  of  in- 
subordination he  was  tried  by  a  court-innrtial,  spntenced 
to  pay  a  fine  of  ten  dollars,  and,  in  default  thereof,  to  be 
imprisoned.     He  chose  the  latter  alternative :  and  from 
his  place  of  confinement  addressed  a  letter  to  the  public, 
in  which,  after  a  statement  of  his  cnse,  he  thus  describes 
his  dress: — "It  was  proved  to  the  Court  that  my  equip- 
ments were  strictly  according  to  law — that  I  had  an  or- 
dinary powder-horn,  but  which  the  Capffiin  stated  was 
too  large  for  a  musket — that  my  dress  was  as  follows: 
— A  gentleman's  ordinary  haircloth  cnp — a  pair  of  com- 
mon spectacles — an   ordinary  grey   mixed    cloth  coat, 
which  I  usually  wore  in  the  store  in  which  I  am  (or  I 
should  say  was)   a  clerk — a  paper  collar,  instead  of  a 
linen  or  cotton  one,  and  of  the  ordinary  and  usu;il  size, 
and  no  larger — a  common  vest — a  pair  of  brown  drill- 
ing   pantaloons,  my  stockings  drawn   over  instead  of 
tmder  the  pantaloons — and  shoes   tied  with  a  string. 
The  Court  imposed  a  fine  of  ten  dollars,  which,  consi- 
dering to  bo  illegal  and  oppressive,  and  knowing  it  to 
bo  unjust,    I  will  not  have  e>torted  from  me;  and,  for 
so  declining  to  surrender  my  right  ns  a  citizen,   lam 
now  imprisoned,  whether  legally  or  not  may  hereafter 
appear;  for   I  consider  it  virtually  a  lauliss  and  ruth- 
less violation,  not  only  of  my  own,  but  of  the  personal 
rights  ond  personal  liberty  of  every  citizen  of  this  State," 
It  is  rather  singular  that  the  Government  have  not  long 
since  dispensed  with  such  a  system  ;    for,  so  long  as  it 
continuis  in  vogue,  they  can  scarcely  hope  to  see  any 
thing  but  mountebanks   in  place  of  eflective  soldiers, 
The  officers  of  the  volunteer  companies  aro  also  elect- ^ 
ed  by  vote,  and  such  us  the  following  is  a  common  ad- 
vertisement ;— 


\ 


56 


A  svbaltbrn's  furlough. 


i 


"Jackson  Guards — Attention! — You  will 
completely  equipped,  to-morrow  morning,  at  ten  o'clock, 
in  front  of  the  Napoleon  House :  each  man  provided 
with  thirteen  rounds  blank  cartridge.  After  parade,  an 
election  will  take  place  for  one  lieutenant-colonel  and 
one  captain." 

On  my  way  to  the  office  of  a  rail-road,   which  was 
opened  on  the  7th  of  June,  between  the  city  and  Ger- 
man Town,  six  miles  distant,  I  witnessed  a  most  extra- 
ordinary  mode  of  selling  the  stock  in  some  new  bank. 
It  was  a  scene  worthy  of  St.  Giles's  or  Billingsgate;  and 
such  as  I  should  never  have   expected  to  see  in   the 
quiet  city  of  Philadelphia.     The  manner  in  which  it 
was  disposed  of  was  as  follows :    the  sellers   »  ere  in  a 
house,  with  a  small  aperture  in  a  window  shutter,  only 
sufiiciently  large  to  admit  a  man's  hand,  and  through 
which  he  delivered  his  money ;  but  having  received  his 
scrip,  after  a  lapse  of  some  time,  it  was  impossible  for  him 
to  withdraw  through  the  crowd  of  purchasers;  no  one  would 
make  way,  lest  he  should  thereby  lose  his  chance  of  ever 
gaining  the  window.     The  only  plan  then  was,  that  one 
of  his  friends  threw  him  the  end  of  a  rope,  which  he  fas- 
tened  round  his  body,  and  part  of  the  mob,  who  came 
as  mere  lookers-on,  dragged  him  out  by  main  strength, 
frequently  with  the  loss  of  the  better  half  of  his  npparel. 
Many  had,  however,  come  prepared  for  the  worst,  by 
leaving  their  coats,  shirts,  and  hats,  at  home.     It  was 
here  that  the  strongest  went  to  the  wall,  and  various 
wore  the  schemes  adopted  to  keep  possession.     One  fel- 
low had  very  knowingly  brought  a  gimlet  with  him,  and, 
boring  it  into  the  shutter,  heldon  with  one  hand,  while 
he  fought  most  manfully  with  the  othei  !     A  bystander 
told  me  that  a  large  party  had  leagued  together  for  mutual 
support,  and  taken  possession  of  the  window  the  preced- 
ing evening;  but  that  a  stronger  one  attacked  them  in 
the  morning,  and  drove  them  from  their  position,  though 
not  without  several  heads,  arms,  and  legs,  being  broken 
in  the  affray.      It  appeared,  therefore,  that  the    only 
chance  n  peaceable  citizen  had  of  obtaining  any  stock 
was  to  hire  the  greatest  bully  he  could  find  to  fight  his 
battles  for  him.     This  scene  continued  throughout  three 


# 


m 

[ugh 
)ken 
}nlv 
ILock 
his 


•:t 


k  SUBALTERN  S  FURL017UH. 


57 


days;  and,  besides  many  severe  and  dangerous  wounds 
which  were  inflicted  in  the  contest,  one  man  was  killed. 
In  consequence,  however ,  of  this  and  similar  disturb- 
ances, meetings  of  repectable  citizens  were  held,  to  de- 
vise means  to  prevent  a  recurrence  of  them  on  like  oc- 
casions; and,  as  an  additional  proof  that  they  were  asham- 
ed of  those  proceedings,  one  of  them  expressed  a  hopv*; 
"that  I  had  not  witnessed  a  sale  of  bank  stock."  Pursu- 
ing my  may  to  the  rail-road,  I  overheard  a  bricklayer 
call  out  from  his  kiln  to  another  at  some  distance,  "I 
say  Jem,  Bob'll  have  a  blow-out  to-morrow."  "Why? 
how  ?"  "  He's  gone  to  buy  stock,  and  he'll  work  his 
way  amongst  them,  I  know."  I  had  been  detained  so 
long,  that  I  did  not  arrive  at  the  railway  until  two 
minutes  past  nine,  and  the  car  had  started  as  the  clock 
struck  ;  so  I  passed  the  two  hours,  until  the  departure  of 
the  next  train,  by  walking  out  into  the  country.  It  was 
the  first  time  I  had  well  examined  any  American  farm- 
ing, which,  to  an  Englishman's  eye,  appears  to  great  dis- 
advantage. To  this  eflfect,  the  substitution  of zigzig, or, 
as  they  term  them,  worm  fences  of  dead  wood,  instead 
of  the  neat  quickset  hedges  jf  English  husbandry,  doe« 
not  a  little  contribute. 

Locomotive  engines  had  not  been  introduced,  and 
horse  cars  were  substituted  until  the  railway  should  be 
completed,  a  single  road  only  being  at  preeenl  finished; 
but  many  hundreds  of  workmen,  principally  Irish,  were 
employed  in  laying  an  additional  one ;  the  castings  were 
imported  from  England,  and  the  chairs  were  firmly 
fiistened  into  blocks  of  grey  granite,  the  foundation  be- 
ing well  secured  by  a  trench  of  thirty  inches  filled  with 
Macadamized  stones,  well  rammed  down;  and  where 
any  mils  appeared  to  give  way,  or  start  out  from  each 
other,  those  opposite  were  connected  with  them  by  a  rod 
of  iron,  and  gravel  overlaid.  The  highest  embankment 
on  the  road  was  forty  perpendicular  feet,  and  the  only 
very  heavy  work  was  the  blasting  a  ridge  of  granite, 
through  which  we  passed,  four  miles  from  the  city, 
The  carriage  ran  remarkably  easy,  and,  though  carry- 
ing twenty  passengers  (and  calculated  to  hold  forty), 
tho  horse  took  it  the  six  miles  in  forty  minutes,  tho  road 


.,«'♦# 


68 


▲  subaltern's   FURLO0OH. 


;/      I 


rising  thirty-two  feet  psr  mile  throughout  the  distance. 
The  usual  contrivaace  of  a  lever  to  regulate  the  speed 
of  the  carriages  was  used,  having  a  brush  at  the  lower 
end  for  the  purpose  of  sweeping  the  rail  before  the 
wheel.  A  busy  scene  presented  itself  at  the  place  where 
the  cars  stopped,  on  the  edge  of  a  wood,  half  a  mile 
from  German  Town.  A  large  concourse  of  molasses- 
beer  and  oyster  sellers  had  established  themselves  under 
the  trees ;  several  frame-houses  were  erecting  for  the 
sale  of  egg-nog  and  mint  julaps  ;  and  land,  which  had 
been  of  little  value  a  twelvt^month  before,  was  now  let- 
ting at  half  a  dollar  per  foot,  per  month.  German  Town 
is  a  straggling  place,  three  miles  in  length,  and  inter- 
spersed with  gardens  an  J  orchards,  which  give  it  rather 
the  appearance  of  a  large  village.  It  was  here  that 
Washington  experienced  a  repulse  in  his  attack  upon  an 
English  division,  in  1777.  I  walked  through  a  large 
stone  house,  the  property  of  Mr.  Chew,  which  was  the 
principal  scene  of  action,  and  most  gallantly  defended  by 
five  companies  of  the  40th  regiment,  under  Colonel  Mus- 
grave,  against  incessant  attacks  of  an  American  column, 
under  General  Sullivan  It  stands  on  a  rising  ground, 
about  two  hundred  yards  from  the  main  road,  and  still 
bears  marks  of  the  light  artillery,  which  was  brought  to 
bear  upon  it.  I  addressed  myself  to  a  man  who  appear- 
ed to  have  been  left  in  charge  of  the  house,  by  the  pro- 
Srietor;  but  he  answered  me  so  coolly,  and  appeared  so  lit* 
e  inclined  to  give  any  information,  that  I  turned  away, 
and  commenced  a  conversation  with  his  wife,  who  vo- 
lunteered to  show  me  through  the  building,  and  pointed 
out  the  grave  of  the  English  General  Agnew,  in  front 
of  the  stables,  near  which  lay  also  several  ornamental 
statues,  which  had  lost  heads  or  arms  during  the  fight. 

We  were  only  thirty  minutes  returning  to  Philadel- 
phia, where  a  great  concourse  of  people  had  assembled, 
to  witness  the  arrival  of  the  cars,  it  being  the  first  road 
of  the  description  which  had  been  opened  near  the  city. 
The  Americans,  particularly  in  that  portion  of  the 
country  which  gives  birth  to  the  Yankees,  have  acquired 
a  reputation  for  loquacity  and  inquisitiveness,  which 
does  not  extend  to  the  Philadelphians,  who  appear 


A  SOBALTBRNS'  FVAlOttdfi. 


89 


rather  to  inherit  the  Quaker  taciturnity ;  for,  during  the 
first  three  days  I  was  at  the  hotel,  not  a  single  indivi- 
dual  addressed  a  word  to  me  at  table.  All  were  too  busy 
to  ask  questions,  or  to  pay  the  slightest  attention  to  any 
one's  wants  but  their  own ;  as  they  ate,  so  they  departed 
in  silence.  At  last,  fearing  I  should  lose  the  use  of  mv 
tongue,  I  took  courage  on  the  fourth  day,  and  maoe 
some  common-place  observation  to  a  dark,  stout  man 
who  sat  next  to  me,  and  who  always  had  an  English- 
looking  pointer  under  his  chair.  Judging  of  the  master 
by  his  dog,  I  immediately  decided  he  must  be  a  country- 
man; but  no!  he  could  speak  English  but  very  imperfectly, 
and  as  he  doled  out  to  me  a  long  story  in  pitiful  accents, 
about  his  losing  1500  dollars  the  preceding  day,  I  knew 
him  to  be  Monsieur  Chabert  the  fire-king,  having  read 
an  advertisement  in  the  papers  offering  600  dollars  re- 
ward for  the  recovery  of  the  stolen  property.  I  went 
the  same  evening  to  the  Masonic  Hall,  a  room  of  noble 
dimensions,  lighted  by  gas,  from  private  works,  to  witness 
his  performance ;  the  attendance  was  very  thin,  and  the 
audience  appeared  to  take  very  little  interest  in  his  lec- 
ture upon  the  various  qualities  of  poisons,  and  the  impu- 
nity with  which  a  large  quantity  might  be  taken,  provid- 
ed the  antidote  followed  immediately ;  for  all  talked  in- 
cessantly. They  were  more  attentive  when  he  commen- 
ced drinking  the  poisons,  passing  red-hot  bars  of  iron 
over  his  tongue,  swallowing  oil  heated  to  380  degrees, 
Fahrenheit,  and  burning  a  cloak  off  his  back,  by  enter- 
inff  a  temple  in  which  300  cartridges  exploded.  Shouts' 
of  laughter  accompanied  the  awkward  attempts  of  some 
few  aspirants  to  perform  the  same  feats. 

The  historical  compositions  upon  many  of  the  signs 
displayed  over  the  small  inns,  in  the  suburbs  near  Ken- 
sington, was  painted  in  no  ordinary  style,  and  numerous 
groups  were  mtroduced  in  the  subjects,  in  quite  an  artist- 
like  and  classical  style,  such  as  in  "  The  Landing  of 
Columbus  in  the  New  World ;  Washington  crossing 
the  Delaware  on  the  26th  of  December,  IT76;  the  Sur- 
render of  Lord  Cornwallis,  and  Penn*s  treaty  with  the 
Indians,"  which  was  very  near  the  spot  where  the  elm- 
tree  stood  under  which  the  treaty  was  made.    The  tree, 


60 


A  subaltern's  FVRLOtlOH 


\ 


which  measured  twenty-four  feet  in  circumference,  was 
blown  down  a  few  years  since,  and  a  small  marble  obelisk 
now  marks  the  spot  where  it  stood.  It  is  within  thirty 
yards  of  the  Delaware,  and  an  inscription  upon  it  gives 
the  date  of  Penn's  birth,  and  death,  the  former  in  1644, 
and  the  latter  in  1718,  and  on  the  other  sides  are — 

/      ,         V    .  Treaty  ground 

Willinm  Penn,  .'  ,.     -: 

and  the  ,. 

.    Indian  Natives, 
1682. 


"  Unbroken  Faith." 

Pennsylvania, 
founded 
1681, 
,  by  deeds  of  Peace. 

'  Penn's  name  is  sufficiently  immortalized ;  but  I  think 
t)ne  slight  shade  is  drawn  over  his  fame,  by  his  having 
'  deserted  the  infant  city  two  years  after  the  first  house 
was  built,  and  returned  to  England,  where  he  died.  Had 
his  plan  hut  been  rigidly  adhered  to,  there  would  have 
been  none  of  these  mean-looking  houses  on  the  water 
front.  By  singular  good  chance,  however,  his  original 
intention  bids  fair  to  be  carried  into  effect.  An  eccen- 
tric, but  public-spirited  man,  Stephen  Girard,  a  wealthy 
banker,  whose  sentiments  appear  to  have  been  in  accor- 
dance with  the  founder's,  having  lately  died,  bequeathed 
an  immense  sum  for  the  express  purpose  of  beautifying 
the  city.  The  history  of  this  man,  who  died  one  of  the 
wealthiest  private  individuals  in  the  world,  is  very  re- 
markable. It  appears  that  he  was  born  at  Bourdeaux, 
in  France,  about  1746,  and  at  the  age  of  fourteen  sailed 
for  the  West  Indies,  as  a  cabin-boy.  Thence  he  traded 
for  several  years  to  New- York,  as  mate  of  a  vessel;  and 
•oon  after  settled  in  Philadelphia,  where,  at  the  conclu- 
aion  of  the  revolutionary  war,  he  kept  a  small  shop ; 
dealing  in  old  naval  stores,  such  as  iron,  rigging,  &c. ; 
and  his  small  frame-house  was  situated  on  the  same  spot 
that  the  elegant  mansion  in  which  he  died  now  occupi«s. 


A  subaltern's   FVRtOVOH. 


61 


At  times  he  was  engaged  as  a  pedlar,  journeying  up 
And  down  the  country  to  farm-houses,  and  disposing  of 
groceries,  and  ready-made  clothing,  returning  to  the  city 
when  his  stock  was  exhausted ;  and  by  degrees  amassed 
such  a  sum  of  money,  that  he  ranked  as  one  of  the  first 
merchants  in  the  city.  At  the  expiration  of  the  charter 
of  the  bank  of  the  United  States  in  1810,  he  established 
a  private  bank,  the  capital  of  which  in  a  few  years  was 
augmented  to  five  millions  of  dollars.  From  this  cir- 
cumstance, and  from  taking  a  loan  of  five  millions  dur- 
ing the  late  war,  receiving  100  seven  per  cent,  stock  for 
70,  with  a  fortunate  speculation  in  the  stock  of  the  pre- 
sent bank  of  the  United  States,  his  wealt  i  increased  to  so 
vast  an  extent,  that  at  his  death  it  was  estimated  at  four- 
teen millions  of  dollars  (three  millions  sterling,^  the 
whole  of  which,  with  the  exception  of  a  Tew  legacies  to 
his  brother,  and  nieces,  amounting  to  KO.OOO  tioUars 
and  small  annuities  to  his  servants,  he  bequeathed  to  the 
different  charitable  institutions,  towards  the  improvemens 
of  Philadelphia,  and  New-Orleans,  and  for  the  e  'nblish- 
ment  of  a  college  in  the  former  city,  for  the  i  esitience 
and  accommodation  of  at  least  three  hundred  bchoiars. 
In  his  will  he  prescribes  the  dimensions  of  the  various 
rooms,  and  that  the  building  "shall  be  at  least  110  feet 
east  and  west,  and  160  north  and  south ;  shall  be  three 
stories  in  height,  and  each  story  at  least  15  feet  high  in 
the  clear,  from  the  floor  to  the  cornice,  and  that  it  shall 
be  fire-proof  inside  and  outside,  and  no  wood  used  except 
for  doors,  windows,  and  shutters ;  the  floors  and  land- 
ings, as  well  as  the  roof,  to  be  covered  with  marble  slabs, 
securely  laid  in  mortar."  For  the  building  and  esta- 
blishment of  this  college  he  bequeathed  two  millions  of 
dollars ;  and  the  income  of  so  mu  h  of  it  as  remained 
unexpended  was  directed  to  maintain  'v  many  poor  white 
orphans,  between  the  age  of  six  and  ten  years,  as  it  was 
adequate  to.  It  was  also  ordered  that  they  should  be 
instructed  in  the  various  brand  us  of  a  sound  education, 
in  the  French  and  Spanish  (not  forbidding,  but  not 
recommending  the  Latm  or  Greek)  languages ;  and  it 
was  stated,  that  he  would  have  them  taught  "facts  and 
things,  rather  than  words  and  signs  ;^^  and  that  after 

YOL.  I. — F. 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


I 


they  had  attained  the  ages  between  fourteen  and  edgb- 
teen,  they  should  be  bound  out  to  suitable  occupations 
according  to  their  capacities.  He  also  enjoins  and  re- 
quires that  "  no  ecclesiastic,  missionary,  or  minister  of 
any  sect  whatsoever,  should  ever  hold  or  exercise  any 
station  or  duty  whatever  in  the  said  college;  nor 
should  any  such  person  ever  be  admitted  for  an^ purpose 
or  as  a  visitor,  within  the  premises  appropriated  to  the 
purposes  of  the  said  college."  But,  in  making  this  re- 
striction, he  states  that  he  does  not  mean  to  cast  any 
reflection  upon  any  sect  whatsoever;  but  as  there  is 
such  a  multitude  of  sects,  and  diversity  of  opinion  among 
them,  it  is  his  desire  that  the  tender  minds  of  the  orphans 
should  be  free  from  the  excitement  which  clashing  doc- 
trines, and  sectarian  controversy,  arc  apt  to  produce ; 
and  it  is  his  desire  that  the  instructors  of  the  college 
should  instil  into  their  minds  "  the  purest  principles  of 
morality;  so  that,  on  their  entrance  into  life,  they  moy, 
from  inclination  and  habit^  evince  benevolence  ti  wards 
their  fellow-creatures,  and  a  love  of  truth,  sobriety,  and 
industry,  adopting  at  the  same  time  such  religious  tenets 
as  their  matured  reason  may  enable  them  to  prefer,"  If 
the  two  millions  of  dollars  were  insufliciont  for  building 
the  college  and  maintaining  as  many  orphans  as  might 
apply  for  admission,  he  lella  forther  legacy  for  that  pur- 
pose. Ho  also  bequeathed  half  a  million  of  dollars,  the 
income  of  which  was  to  be  applied  exclusively  for  lay- 
ing out  (i  street,  to  be  called  Delaware  Avenue,  along 
the  heads  of  the  docks  in  front  of  the  city,  and  for  pulling 
down  all  buildings  between  it  and  the  water,  within  the 
limits  of  the  city;  to  remove  all  wooden  buildings,  and 
to  prohibit  any  being  built  heroufler  within  the  said  li- 
mits :  his  intention  being  to  make  that  part  of  the  city  cor- 
respond better  with  the  apnea  ranee  of  the  interior :  and, 
in  case  the  t'ommonweulth  of  Pennsylvania  failed  to 
pass  the  laws,  with  regard  to  the  im))rovement8  he  re- 
quired, before  the  expiration  of  a  year  from  the  time  of 
his  death,  the  whole  bequest,  excepting  (hat  for  the  col- 
lege, sliould  revert  to  the  United  States  for  the  purposes 
of  internal  navigation,  "and  no  other"  When  i  arrived 
in  the  city,  all  the  necessary  laws  hud  been  passed ,  and 


ill 


A.  subaltern's  furlouoh 


03 


nor 


p poses 
irriYcd 
and 


a  fine  of  500  dollars  was  to  be  imposed  upon  any  one 
who  built  a  frame  or  wooden  house  within  the  limits. 
Preparations  had  also  commenced  for  building  the  college, 
widening  the  streets  near  the  river,  and  in  every  way 
complying  with  the  testator's  will. 

The  following  Sunday   I  was  more  fortunate  in  the 
weather,  and  attended  divine  service  at  Christ  Church, 
one  of  the  neatest  religious  edifices  in  the  city.     But 
every  thing  appeared  new  and  strange  to  me — there  was 
no  clerk,  and  the  congregation  read  the  responses  aloud. 
The  service,  too,  like  the  interior  of  the  State  House,  had 
been  modernized,  and  had  been  deprived  of  much  of  its 
solemnity,  in  my  opinion,  by  being  rendered  into  fami- 
liarly modern   English.     Emblematic  of  the  country, 
every  thing  old  was  discarded.     A  gentleman,  who  sat 
near  me,  very  deliberately  rose  from  nis  scat,  and  walked 
across  the  aisle  to  the  occupant  of  another  pew,  with  whom 
he  shook  hands,  sat  down,  and,  alter  conversing  with  him 
for  some  minutes,  resumed  his  own  seat.    I  ought  to  state, 
however,  that  this  was  the  only  instance  of  such  dis- 
respectful conduct  which  came  under  my  observation  : 
the  Americans  in  general  being  very  attentive  to  their 
religious  duties,  and  scrupulously  respectful  of  the  de- 
votion of  their  neighbours.     The  number  of  religious 
sects  in  Philadelphia  is  such,  that  Girard's  college  would 
have  barely  contained  a  representative  from  each  deno- 
mination.    There  are  no  fewer  than  nine  Protestant  epis- 
copal churches;  four  Roman  Catholic;  nineteen  Presoy- 
terian  ;  one  Scotch  Presbyterian;  ten  Methodists;  three 
Reformed  Dutch;  six  Raptists;  five  German  Lutheran; 
six  (luakers;  one  Free  Quakers  ;  one  Covenanters;  two 
German  Reformed ;  two  Universalists  ;  two  Synagogues; 
one  Bible  Christian;  one  Mariners'  Church;  one  Sweden- 
borgian  ;  ten  Unitarians ;  one  Moravian ;  one  Menonists, 
or  Dunkers ;  one  Swedish  Lutheran ;  one  Moun^  Zion : 
in  addition  to  these,  the  Evangelical  Society  have  erectea 
four  in  the  suburbs.     None  Jt  them  arc  remarkable  for 
their  exterior  beauty,  but  are  genernlly  so  plain  as  scarcely 
to  bo  distinguishea  from  private  dwelling-houses. 

The  markets  are  excellent ;  |>nrtlcularly  one  lonff  range 
of  buildings  in  High  Street,  up  the  centre  of  which  it 


1'.' 


i 


*N- 


i§  A  suaaltern's  furlough. 

extends  for  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  They  are  a 
perfect  pattern  of  neatness,  though  not  to  be  compared 
m  granaeur  or  convenience  to  that  at  Liverpool,  being 
merely  roofs  supported  on  brick  pillars,  with  a  single 
row  of  stalls  on  each  side  of  the  passage ;  yet  the  most  de- 
licate lady  might  walk  at  any  time  of  day  from  one  to  the 
other  end  without  inconvenience  or  annoyance.  It  is  con- 
sidered the  best  beef  market  in  the  Union,  and  is  well 
supplied  wiih  fruit  and  vegetables  of  every  description, 
excepting  Irish  potatoes,  a  good  bushel  of  which,  coming 
direct  from  Europe,  is  considered  no  mean  present.  1 
think  that  I  scarcely  ever  tasted  a  good  potato  any  where 
south  of  Now- York.  The  costume  of  the  butchers  (white 
coat.s  and  aprons)  is  much  cleanlier  looking,  and  more 
becoming-,  than  the  dirty  blue  of  the  English  knights  of 
the  cleaver  ond  hatchet. 

The  regularity  of  tho  streets  much  pleased  me  upon 
tirst  landing  ;  but,  after  I  had  gained  some  little  experi- 
ence by  a  week's  hard  walking,  I  began  to  look  upon 
them  as  rather  monotonous,  and  to  wish  that  there  was 
more  than  a  solitary  crooked  one.  The  city  occupies  the 
space  of  ground  between  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  rivers, 
which  arc  about  two  miles  apart ;  all  the  streets  running 
from  tho  former  to  the  latter,  due  east  and  west,  are,  with 
the  exception  of  High  Street,  named  nfler  various  trees. 
There  are  but  eight  of  them,  and  their  names  may  bo 
formed  into  tho  Qouplet  of 

BnssafrM,  Codar,  Cliesnut,  Vine, 
Mulberry,  Spruce,  Higli,  Walnut,  Pine  j 

Whilo  those  again  which  cross  them  at  right  angles,  run* 
ning  due  north  and  routh,  are  numbeiud  from  the  rivers 
up  to  Broad  Street,  which  divides  the  citv  into  two  un* 
equal  parts,  there  being  thirteen  streets  between  it  and 
the  Delaware,  and  only  eight  between  it  and  the  Schuyl- 
kill. Tho  city  is  consequently  chequered,  as  it  were, 
liko  a  chess-board,  by  these  divisions  and  subdivisions  ; 
tho  S(iuares  (as  the  inhabitants  term  them)  being  solid,  or 
blocks  of  buildings  This  regularity,  however,  is  very 
convenient  for  a  stranger ;  and,  if  heonly  knows  the  points 


▲  SUBALTERN'S   FVRLOUOH. 


65 


es.  run* 

rivers 

two  un« 

it  and 

Jchuyl- 

it  were, 

isions  ; 

kolid,  or 

jii  very 

poinu 


of  the  compass,  it  is  impossible  he  can  lose  his  way ;  but, 
without  that,  he  would  have  as  much  difficulty  in  finding 
his  hotel,  as  a  mariner  would  in  finding  his  port  without 
knowing  its  bearings.  It  puzzled  me  a  good  deal  at  first 
for,  if  I  asked  any  one  the  way  to  such  a  place,  the  answer 
was  invariably  some  such  as  "  Go  four  squares  higher  up 
and  you  will  find  it  on  the  west  side  of  north  thirteenth, 
next  to  Sassafras."  "  Thank  you,"  said  I,  '•  for  the  in- 
formation— west  side  of  north  thirteenth,  next  to  Sassa- 
fras !"  how  concise !  I  huci  then  to  box  the  compass ;  and, 
after  a  quarter  of  an  hour's  !.r>t  walking,  began  to  despair 
of  finding  the  spot;  so,  inquiring  again,  would  discover 
that  I  was  not  to  search  for  hollow  squirres ;  but  that,  if 
I  returned,  I  should  find  the  place  on  the  west  side  of 
north  thirteenth,  next  to  Race — "  next  to  Race !  why  I 
was  told  but  a  few  minutes  since  that  it  was  next  to  Sas- 
safras." "  tVell,  but  they  are  the  same,  I  guess  ;  only 
Sassafras  is  rather  to  long  a  name."  So  running  down 
the  longitudeof  the  city  again,  until  I  gained  the  required 
latitude  of  13  north,  1  bore  direct  down  the  street,  and 
soon  arrived  at  my  destination ;  thinking  it  strange  that 
they  should  call  a  street  Race,  when  races  were  forbidden 
by  law  in  Pennsylvania. 

Though  the  exterior  appearance  of  the  houses  exceeds 
those  in  English  towns,  from  the  bricks  boinff  painted  red, 
and  not  dimmed  by  the  black  smoke  of  coal  fires,  while 
the  windows  are  set  ofl"  by  the  smart  green  Venetian  shut- 
ters, yet  the  streets  are  but  badly  paved  and  lighted,  and 
worse  kept  as  to  cleanliness.     I  have  seen  innumerable 

{ngs  running  about,  and  rooting,  ad  libitum,  in  the  most 
iishionublu  parts  of  the  town ;  and  have  been  obliged  to 
turn  off  the  causeway  into  the  road,  with  danger  of  being 
run  ov«r  by  a  carriage  or  an  equestrian,  because  it  was 
blocked  up  with  piles  of  merchandize  and  einnty  chests — 
as  if  the  storekeeper  to  whom  they  hehjiigod  was  proud 
of  making  a  display  that  he  was  iHiealerona  great  scale. 
Day  after  di\y  would  those  identical  nuisances  he  in  exist- 
•Mice,  uiid  tolerated  hy  the  citizens  as  a  nuitter  of  course  ; 
hecauao,  in  fact,  to  them  it  was  nothing  uncommon — 
quite  an  every-dny  sij^lit, 

Thvnppeurunceof  the  (uo  must  iiishionuble  squares  is 


Hi    i 


\ 


m 


A.  SUBAtTBRN  S   FTrRLOUGH. 


much  marred  by  the  position  of  a  prison  which  occupies 
ne>'frly  one  side  of  each.  But  the  most  unsightly  build- 
ing, and  that  which  is  least  in  accordance  with  the  habits 
and  sentimen^j  of  most  Americans,  as  to  its  interior  econo- 
my, is  that  Bastile,  the  Penitentiary  ;  the  principles  of 
whi''h  institution  have  been  so  ably  described  by  former 
truv  oilers.  For  my  own  part,  I  could  not  view  its  lofty 
cs  ite'' 'ted  walls  and  towers,  loop-holed  windows,  port- 
(  llif  and  ponderous  irunstudded  gates,  without  a  shud- 
der at  the  fate  of  its  wretched  inmates.  Whoever  views 
the  establishment  will  confess  thai  the  Americans  have 
carried  punishment  for  crime  beyond  even  death  itself 
It  is  strange  that  they  should  hesitate  to  take  away  the 
life  of  man  for  any  crime  short  of  murder ;  and  yet  should 
inflict  perpetual  solitary  confinement  as  more  lenient  ; 
condemning  an  unfortunate  being  to  be  for  ever  cut  off 
from  all  intercourse  with  his  fellow-creatures,  debarred 
the  use  of  any  thing  which  might  give  excitement  to  his 
mind,  and  doomed  to  linger  away  year  after  year  in  a 
miserable  existence, 


III 


"  Until  just  Death,  kind  umpire  of  mena'  miMrtoa, 
With  sweet  enlargement  doth  Uiunisa  Aim." 

I  asked  the  opinion  of  a  keeper  who  had  witnessed  the 
efTects  of  this  syistem,  and  his  answer  wua,  "  I  would 
sooner  be  hung  twice  over,  sir."  If  ever  the  (rood  citi- 
sens  of  Philadelphia  may  expect  a  visit  from  the  shade 
of  the  venerable  founder  of  their  city,  I  sliould  imagine 
it  will  be  to  express  his  abhorrence  at  an  institution 
worthy  only  of  the  best  days  of  the  Spanish  Inquisi- 
tion 

It  is  said  that  Philadelphia  possesses  more  real  and 
ready  capital,  and  that  the  merchants'  spectitations  au* 
more  confined  to  the  latter,  than  is  the  case  in  any  other 
city  in  the  States.  The  manufactures  are  extensive,  espe- 
cially the  warpinif-nuUs  of  wliich  there  ore  upwards  of 
one  muulred  in  the  immediate  vicinity;  and,  smce  wood 
fuel  has  become  more  scarce,  a  i^reat  trade  has  been  cor- 
ried  on,  up  the  Schuylkill  and  Lehigh  rivnrs,  with  thecool 
minus,  100  niilc.i  distant     Tliough  the  coal  in  summer  is 


lil 


▲   SUBALTERN  S   rURLOVOH. 


H^ 


seldom  under  seven  dollars,  and  in  winter  upwards  of 
eleven  dollars,  per  ton ;  yet  it  has  almost  superseded  the 
use  of  wood,  and  the  demand  even  exceeds  the  supply. 
It  is  of  a  hard  Quality,  nearly  as  brilliant  as  glass,  will 
bear  turning,  ana  emits  very  little  smoke:  but  that  which 
is  termed  "anthracite"  will  not  blaze  or  burn  easily, 
unless  English  coal  is  mixed  with  it;  and  this  is  imported 
in  vessels  from  Liverpool  as  ballast.  Mines  hare  been 
opened  only  a  few  years  since  at  Mount  Carbon  and 
Lehigh,  and  are  daily  becoming  more  lucrative  and  ex- 
tensive. 

Like  all  American  towns,  Philadelphia  teems  with 
"  knowledge  for  the  people;"  there  being  eight  doily,  one 
twice-a-week,  and  thirteen  weekly  newspapers ;  seven 
monthly,  and  four  quarterly  publications.  Of  the  latter 
the  American  Review  is  well  edited. 

A  Itogether,  I  have  seen  but  few  cities  with  which  it  will 
not  bear  a  comparison;  and,  in  my  poor  opinion,  it  is  su- 
perior to  all  on  the  continent  of  North  America.  I  could 
not  spare  time  for  more  than  a  ten  days'  residence  there ; 
and  tiiough  during  that  time  1  did  my  best  to  satisfy  my 
curiosity,  1  regretted  to  leave  it  without  having  seen  all 
1  wished.  .       . 


,  V'^i' 


'■;*:  n 


1  1 

f 


88  A   SUBALTBRN^S  FVRLOUOH. 


CHAPTER  V. 

BoaU,  ships,  barges  mark  the  roughened  stream :    ^ 
This  way  and  that  they  differcut  points  puravtA, 
So  mix  Ijie  motions,  and  so  shifts  t)\c  view. 

SAVAar: 

all's  still,  as  'ert?  began 

The  fight;  for,  when  it  did,  they  cheercii  and  raiv 

Hill. 

Thui  was  Ckirinth  lost  and  won. 

Btron. 


At  six,  ▲.  M.,  on  the  13th  of  June,  I  embarked  in  jne 
of  the  "Citizens'  Uiion  Linu'  steamers,  and  proceeded 
down  the  Delaware  at  the  spanking  rate  (  "tfteen  knots 
an  hour.  A  few  minutes  after  I  hjA  beeti  on  board, 
seeing  a  negro  ringing  a  hund-bcU  up  and  down  the 
deckp,  and  having  my  eyes  and  ears  open  for  every  thing 
new,  1  walked  towards  him  with  the  expectation  of  ac< 
quiring  some  valuable  inforn^^ution ;  when,  with  the  Sten- 
torian voice  of  a  town-crier,  he  sung  out,  "Qentlemen 
who  wish  to  take  breakfast,  pl<\ase  walk  to  the  Captain's 
office,  and  take  tickets — also,  pay  their  fare."  There 
were  from  160  to  170  passengers  on  board ;  so  I  in  vain 
strove  to  penetrate  the  dense  mass  collected  round  the 
small  sentry-box  office,  and  therefore  commenced ins{)ect- 
ing  the  various  barbers'  shops,  wai^hing-rooms,  dressing- 
rooms,  and  bar-rooms,  witn  which  the  upper-deck  was 
covered.  In  the  forepart  of  the  vessel,  a  man  had  open- 
ed a  small  shop  for  the  sale  of  indelible  marking-ink, 
with  types  arranged  for  stamping,  which  appeared  to  be 
in  great  request ;  while  in  the  stern  were  a  knot  of  poli- 
ticians discussing  the  merits  of  the  tariff  bill,  and  poring 
for  the  last  news  from  Congress  over  the  morning  pa- 
pers, which  they  had  purchased  from  some  of  the  little 
urchins  who  crowd  the  piers  and  vessels  previous  to  start- 
ing. I  had,  however,  scarcely  studied  the  various  groups, 
or  come  to  any  fixed  deterininution  who  and  what  the 
principal  orators  were,  judging  only  from  a  physiogno 
mical  view  of  them,  when  1  again  heard  the  mack  crier 
and  his  bell,  with  a  shriller  and  more  deciHive   ton«, 


Hi 


A   SVBALTBRn's    rURLOVGH. 


siogno 
U  crior 
totiw, 


screaming  out,  "  Qentlemen  a'int  paid  their  &re  will 
please  walk  to  the  Captain's  office!"  where  I  found 
nearly  as  great  a  throng  as  before ;  but,  being  more  per^ 
severing  in  my  efforts  to  pierce  a  crowd  which  remind- 
ed me  of  the  stock-selling  scene,  I  at  last  obtained  three 
scrips  (or  tickets,) — one  for  breakfast,  to  be  returned 
when  called  for  at  table :  the  second  to  be  given  on  go- 
ing ashore ;  and  a  third,  I  think,  for  the  railway  wa- 
gons, or  the  steam-boat  in  the  Chesapeake. 

The  American  river  steamers  are  noble  vessels,  and, 
the  engines  working  upon  deck,  such  ample  accommoda- 
tion is  afforded,  that  between  two  and  three  hundred  pas- 
sengers can  sit  down  to  breakfast  in  the  cabin,  which 
extends  from  stem  to  stern,   excepting  a  small  portion 

{)anellcd  off  in  the  after  part,  which  is  held  sacred  to  the 
adies  alone,  "  No  admittance  for  gentlemen"  being  paint- 
ed in  legible  characters  over  the  door.  The  accustom- 
ed shrine  of  Bacchus,  to  which  the  gentlemen  pay  their 
repeated  and  enthusiastic  devotions,  is  exposed  to  the 
gaze  of  all  admirers  at  the  forepart  of  their  cabin.  No 
man  of  course  would  bo  so  unconscionable  as  to  expect 
any  thing  approaching  to  comfort  at  the  table  of  a  steam- 
boat ;  so  I  should  advise  him  to  get  rid  of  his  meals  as 
speedily  as  possible,  just  as  he  would  of  any  unpleasant 
duty  wnich  must  bo  performed;  and  thin  let  him  breathe 
the  fresh  air  again  upon  deck,  where,  if  i  beauties  of 
nature  have  no  charm  for  him,  he  can  pull  out  his 
watch  and  count  what  number  of  revolutions  the  paddles 
perform  in  a  minute,  or  work  the  calculation  of  how  ma- 
ny knots  the  vessel  cuts  through  the  water  per  hour.  For 
my  own  part,  I  always  preferred  being  on  deck  on  a  cold 
day,  thouj^h  a  shower  of  rain  might  accompany  it,  to 
stewing  below  with  160  passengers;  and  used  often  to 
imagine  what  a  hurry  and  bcuffie  there  would  b«  in  the 
cabin,  if  the  vossul  "collapsed  its  flue"  as  the  Americana 
would  say),  or,  in  plain  old  English,  burst  its  boiler. 

Touching  at  the  various  towns  on  tho  river's  bank,  to 
land  passengers,  delayed  us  for  a  few  minutes ;  but  we 
arrived  at  Newcastle,  thirty-five  miles  from  Philadelphia, 
in  two  hours  and  a  half  Stepping  at  that  place  from  the 
vessel  on  to  the  railway,  we  entered  the  several  horse-cars, 


70 


▲   SUBALTERN  S   FURLOUGH. 


I 


^   i; 


-    i 


Becoming  to  the  numbered  tickets  we  had  receired  on 
board  the  steamer,  without  any  trouble  about  the  baggage, 
which  had  been  placed  in  small  cars  previously  to  our 
leaving  the  vessel,  and  now  followed  us  on  common  rail- 
way wagons.     The  road  was  but  a  temporarily  built 
one,  being  constructed  of  slabs  of  wood  with  a  flat  iron 
rod  nailed  upon  them,  to  withstand  the  friction  of  the  car- 
riage wheels,  the  foundation  being  formed  of  logs  of  trees 
laid  horizontally,  and  scarcely  substantial  enough  for  the 
locomotive  engines  which  were  to  be  introduced  upon  it 
in  the  course  of  the  summer.  The  country  through  which 
we  passed  was  very  fiat  and  uninteresting,  with  scarcely 
any  signs  of  population,  and  the  soil  poor  and  wet.     In 
two  hours  we  arrived  at  Frenchtown,  containing  two  or 
three  straggling  houses  on  the  banks  of  the  Elk ,  where 
again  entering  a  steam-boat,  we  proceeded  down  the  river, 
which  is  so  beset  with  shoals,  that  stakes  and  the  tops  of 
pine-trees  were  stuck  upon  them  for  the  guidance  of  ves- 
sels.  The  country  was  still  flat  and  devoid  of  beauty,  un- 
til we  entered  the  Chesapeake,   and  the  noble  Bay  in- 
to which  the  Susquehanna  pours  its  tributary  water  ; 
when  we  caught  a  passing  glimpse  of  Harford,  some 
miles  up  the  latter ;  and  a  low  distant  range  of  heiffhts 
made  their  appearance,  almost  following  the  course  of  the 
Chesapeake.     America  may  very  fairly  lay  claim  to  hav- 
ing a  more  variable  climate  than  England;  for  I  often  saw 
the  thermometer  range  30  degrees  m  twenty -four  hours: 
and  upon  this  day  the  sun  was  so  excessively  hot,  and 
the  glare  upon  the  white-painted  deck  so  pamful  to  the 
eyes,  as  well  as  to  the  feet,  that  I  was  obliged  to  take 
shelter  below.     In  Philadelphia,  tv  c>  days  previously, 
every  one  sitting  at  the  Are. 

When  we  quitted  the  Chesapeake,  and  entered  the  Pa- 
tapsco  at  North  Point  (where  the  British  army  landed, 
under  General  Hoss,  in  1814,)  it  was  so  broad  that  ob- 
jects on  either  bank  could  be  but  indistinctly  seen.  After 
running  a  few  miles  up  the  latter  river,  we  got  the  flrst 
sight  of  Baltimore,  situated  on  a  series  of  heiffhts  at  the 
head  of  a  circular  bay,  with  a  range  of  low  blue  hills  in 
rear  of  it,  and  presenting  a  more  picturesque  appearance 
than  Philadelphia,  being  interspersed  with  many  domes, 
towers,  and  lofty  monuments.     Numerous  pretty  country 


!5^l 


A  subaltern's  fttrlocgh 


li 


eired  on 


ly  to  our 
non  rail- 
rily  built 
flat  iron 
if  the  car- 
s  of  trees 
rh  for  the 
d  upon  it 
gh  which 
I  scarcely 
wet.     In 
ig  two  or 
k,  where 
tne  river, 
he  tops  of 
ice  of  ves- 
3auty,  un- 
le  Bay  in- 
ry  water ; 
)rd,  some 
)f  heiffhts 
irse  of  the 
Im  to  hav- 
oflen  saw 
ur  hours; 
hot,  and 
ul  to  the 
1  to  take 
eviously, 

d  the  Pa- 
landed, 
that  ob- 
After 
the  first 
Its  at  the 
I  hills  in 
?arance 
domes, 
'country 


residences,  too,  on  the  rising  ground  in  the  vicinity,  add 
much  to  the  beauty  of  the  city.     In  front  of  it,  and  about 
three  miles  distant,  is  Fort  M' Henry,  on  a  promontory 
formedby  the  junction  of  another  branch  of  the  Patapsco. 
It  was  bombarded,  during  the  late  war,  by  the  British 
fleet,  who  received  a  check  there  to  their  farther  advance 
upon  Baltimore,  by  the  ship  channel  being  choked  up 
with  sunken  vessels.     As  the  steamer  passed,  a  small 
detachment  of  troops  were  at  drill  within  the  works,  which 
are  not  in  very  good  repair ;  but  their  use  is  to  be  super- 
seded by  an  almost  impregnable  fortress  (according  to 
the  description  given  me,)  which  is  erecting  upon  the 
Rip  Rap  shoals,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Chesapeake,  and  at 
Fort  Munro,  on  the  mainland  opposite,  upon  the  construc- 
tion of  which  immense  sums  ofmoney  have  been  expend- 
ed.    We  arrived  oflf  the  pier-head  at  three  o'clock,  hav- 
ing been  nine  hours  on  the  journey  from  Philadelphia, 
ninety-five  miles  distant ;  and  showing  a  porter,  at  his 
request,  "the  location"  of  my  carpet  bag,  I  walked  up  to 
the  City  Hotel,  considered  the  largest  in  the  United  States ; 
which,  though  containing  nearly  two  hundred  apartments, 
had  not  one  single-bedded  room  vacant  until  the  follow- 
ing day.     Having  bargained  that  I  should  be  transferred 
to  one  on  the  morrow,  and  that  my  fellow-occupant  for  the 
night  should  be  a  peaceable  man.    I  walked  out  to  view 
the  lions  of  the  city ;  the  very  first  being  in  the  centre  of 
a  small  square  in  front  of  the  hotel ;  namely  a  white  mar- 
ble monument,  sixty  feet  in  height,  erected  to  the  memo- 
ry of  those  who  fell  in  the  defence  of  the  city  at  the  battle 
of  North  Point,  and  bombardment  of  Fort  !VI' Henry.    A 
double  scroll  entwines  the  fluted  column,  with  the  names 
of  those  who  fell  inscribed  upon  it ;  and  in  small  square 
compartments  at  the  base  are  relievos  representing  the 
death  of  General  Ross,  and  the  bombardment  by  the 
British  fleet.     Several  strange  nondescript  animals — a 
kind  of  half-lion,  half-eagle,  occupy  the  angles  of  the  pe- 
destal ;  and  on  the  summit  of  the  monument  a   female 
figure,  with  a  wreath  elevated  in  her  right  hand,  repre- 
sents (as  I  imagined)Fame  crowning  the  deeds  of  the  slnin. 
The  Americans  point  to  the  monuments  as  erected  in  cele- 
bration of  a  victory  over  the  English,  to  whom  they  will 


i  ■ 


\ij 


11 


\^ 


II 


t! 


It  A  subaltern's  fvrlovor. 

never  allow  a  particle  either  of  honour  or  glory;  but  their 
representatives,  who  fell  back  upon  Baltimore  so  hastily 
from  the  battle  of  North  Point,  could  tell  them  a  far  dif- 
ferent story.  There  is  another  fine  monument  erected 
upon  the  rising  ground,  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  city,  to 
the  memory  of  Washington,  the  only  one  for  that  purpose, 
I  believe,  in  the  northern  States.  The  bas-reliefs  and  other 
decorations  are  not  yet  finished,  for  want  of  the  necessary 
funds.  The  original  intention  was,  that  the  summit  should 
be  raised  200  feet  from  the  ground,  but  it  only  attained 
the  height  of  178,  including  the  colossal  statue  ofWashing- 
ton,  16i  feet  high.  The  whole  exterior  is  of  white  mar- 
ble, and  has  already  cost  200,000  dollars.  Though  the 
day  was  yet  excessively  hot,  I  determined  to  ascend  the 
column;  and  being  furnished  with  a  lantern  at  a  small 
house  at  the  base,  there  being  no  loop-holes  to  admit 
light,  I  toiled  with  aching  limps  up  the  tedious  228  steps, 
and  for  some  time  admired  the  extensive  and  fine  view 
of  the  Chesapeake,  and  surrounding  country. 

Being  Sinclair's  benefit  night,  I  attended  the  theatre 
to  witness  the  performance  of  "  Englishmen  in  India." 
There  was  but  a  thin  audience,  and  they  protracted  the 
play  in  a  most  wearisome  manner,  by  the  frequent  encores 
they  demanded  of  every  song.  The  news  of  the  rejection 
of  the  English  Reform  Bill  had  been  received  two  or  three 
days  in  the  city;  and  also  a  rumour  that  there  was  to  be 
a  creation  of  new  peers  in  order  to  carry  the  measure. 
Advantage  was  taken  of  this  circumstance  by  some  wag 
in  the  play,  bearing  the  unronmntic  name  of  Mr.  Tape, 
who  received  a  long  and  boisterous  round  of  applause  for 
his  ready  wit :  "  You  must  personate  a  Count,"  said 
Lady  Scraggs ;  "  Oh,  aye,"  said  the  knight  of  the  thimble ; 
"  one  of  thu  new  batch  of  Peers  for  the  Reform  Bill,  1 
suppose,  as  Shakespeare  says, 

•  It  wants  a  thorough  reform.' " 

Upon  my  return  to  the  inn,  I  entered  my  opartment 
most  cautiously,  lest  1  should  arouse  the  man  uf  peace 
from  his  slumbers;  but  it  was  an  unneccossary  precaution, 
for,  although  he  Imd  been  in  bed  three  hours,  ne  had  not 


A  subaltern's  FVRLOtJOH. 


73 


;  but  their 
so  hastily 
I  a  far  dif- 
snt  erected 
the  city,  to 
it  purpose, 
3  and  other 
necessary 
mit  should 
y  attained 
Washing- 
(vhite  mar- 
hough  the 
ascend  the 
at  a  small 
ss  to  admit 
J  228  steps, 
i  fine  view 

the  theatre 

1  in  India." 

tracted  the 

nt  encores 

e  rejection 

0  or  three 

was  to  be 

!  measure. 

some  wag 

Mr.  Tape, 

^iplausefor 

)unt,"  said 

ke  thimble ; 

Irm  Bill,  1 


;1 

i 


I 


1 

> 


[apartment 

of  peace 

|)recautioil, 

le  had  not 


closed  his  eyes.  I  told  him  it  was  a  great  waste  of  time, 
and  that  he  had  better  have  attended  the  theatre,  where 
he  might  have  heard  some  excellent  singing,  upon  which 
he  informed  me  that  he  was  a  missionary  from  St.  Kitt's 
in  the  West  Indies,  and  was  now  upon  his  travels  through 
the  United  States  for  the  benefit  of  his  health.  He  had 
landed  only  the  preceding  week  at  New- York,  and  gave 
me  a  most  deplorable  account  of  rough  roads,  and  half 
dislocated  bones  which  he  had  already  met  with  in  his 
joirrney.  As  I  had  every  prospect  of  undergoing  the 
same,  I  sympathized  with  him  most  sincerely ;  and  we 
passed  the  time  away  until  near  dawn  of  day,  expatiating 
upon  the  pleasure  of  speedy  but  easy  travellmg,  and  com- 
paring the  respective  merits  of  the  East  and  West  Indies. 
The  followmg  day  I  visited  the  Catholic  cathedral,  a 
very  gloomy,  prison-like  piece  of  architecture,  and  about 
which  I  had  the  bad  taste  to  see  nothing  worthy  of  ad- 
miration, excepting  the  altar,  a  present  from  France. 
The  exterior  of  the  building  bore  such  marks  of  anti- 
quity, and  of  antique  taste,  that  I  imagined  it  must  have 
been  almost  coeval  with  the  first  settlers  ;  but,  upon 
inquiry,  was  much  surprised  to  find  that  it  had  only  been 
erected  eighteen  years.  The  lowness  of  the  dome,  in 
proportion  to  the  rest  of  the  cathedral,  and  the  great  want 
of  spacious  windows,  give  it  a  very  heavy  appearance. 
Its  extreme  length  is  190  feet,  by  177  in  breadth,  while 
the  height  to  the  summit  of  the  cross  is  only  127  f^et. 
There  are  several  paintings  in  the  interior,  presented  by 
Cardinal  Fesch  to  the  late  Archbishop  Marshall ;  and  one 
the  Descent  from  the  Cross  by  Pauhn  Guerin,  presented 
by  Louis  XVIII.,  possessing  considerably  more  merit 
than  another  presented  by  Charles  X.  of  France,  repre- 
senting some  scene  in  the  time  of  the  Crusades,  from  the 
brush  of  an  unknown  artist. 

A  Unitarian  church,  in  something  the  same  style  of 
architecture,  is  within  200  yards  of  the  cathedral ;  but  the 
American  churches  fall  very  far  short  of  that  appearance 
of  solemn  grandeur  which  is  so  striking  in  the  religious 
edifices  of  the  Old  World,  where  large  Gothic  windows 
with  stone  muUions  and  small  diamond  panes  of  glass, 
vol.  I. — o. 


\ 


74 


A    StBALTERN's   FCK ...  X.aH. 


J'  :!> 


have  not  yet  given  place  to  two  stories  of  smart  window' 
sashes,  with  green  Venetian  shutters.  There  is  no  solidity 
about  an  American  church,  which  is  generally  built  of 
wood  or  red  brick,  in  the  style  of  English  Dissenters'  meet- 
ing-houses; and  surmounted  by  a  light,  highly  ornament- 
ed spire  of  the  former  material,  sometimes  covered  with 
glittering  sheet  tin.  The  chancel  fronts  any  point  of  the 
compass  indifferently;  the  organ  occupies  the  eastern,  and 
the  altar  under  the  pulpit  the  western  end  of  the  church, 
as  convenience  suits ;  our  scrupulous  English  attention 
to  their  particular  situation  being  viewed  as  a  remnant 
of  the  superstitious  ages. 

The  Museum,  established  by  a  brother  of  Peale  of 
Philadelphia,  contains  but  a  paltry  collection  of  paintings, 
with  only  a  moderate  one  of  natural  curiosities,  which  are 
not  arranged  with  half  that  taste  which  distinguishes  the 
one  in  that  city. 

While  walking  through  the  Arcade,  a  fine  building  of 
two  stories,  both  of  which  are  well  occupied  by  shops, 
some  men  were  employed  in  pulling  down  and  cleaning 
the  stove-pipes.  One  of  them  went  out  with  a  large 
portion  of  the  fine  over  his  shoulder;  following  him  to  the 
entrance  into  the  street,  I  stood  there  looking  at  a  lofty 
shot  tower  opposite,  and  had  scarcely  determined  which 
road  I  should  next  take,  when  another  man  as  black  as 
Erebus,  or  the  cyclops  of  old,  came  up  with  a  fathom  of 
the  »tove-pipe  over  his  shoulder ;  and  after  gazing  about 
for  a  moment  or  two,  as  if  at  a  loss  for  something,  ad- 
dressed me  (in  making  the  necessary  turn  of  his  body  to 
get  a  full  view  of  me,  a  cloud  of  soot  shot  from  his  bur- 
then, nearly  upsetting  both  me  and  my  gravity,)  with, 
"  Whidh  way  did  that  gentleman  go,  sir?"  I  bowed 
most  politely,  and,  giving  him  the  required  information, 
we  parted  with  a  mutual  "  good  morning,  sir." 

Tne  Merchants'  Hall,  built  by  private  subscription,  has 
been  a  great  failure  with  regard  to  the  value  of  the  stock. 
It  is  a  noble  building  and  of  grand  dimensions ;  the  front 
being  265  feet  by  a  depth  of  140,  having  four  stories, 
including  the  ground-floor.  The  great  hall,  where  the 
merchants  daily  assemble,  is  86  by  53  feet,  and  lighted 
from  the  dome,  whose  summit  is  90  feet  from  the  floor. 


1  • 


▲  subaltern's  furlough 


76 


windoW' 

0  solidity 
built  of 

srs'  meet- 
rnament- 
red  with 
int  of  the 
stern,  and 
!  church, 
attention 
remnant 

Peale  of 
j)aintings, 
vhich  are 
lishes  the 

uilding  of 
by  shops, 

1  cleaning 
1  a  large 
lim  to  the 
at  a  lofty 
ed  which 

black  as 
athom  of 
ing  about 
hing,  ad- 
is  body  to 

his  bur- 
ity,)  with, 

I  bowed 
ormation, 

)tion,  has 
he  stock, 
the  front 

stories, 
vheve  the 

lighted 
the  floor. 


1 


The  sides  of  the  hall  are  supported  by  columns  of  marble; 
each  being  a  single  block.  An  excellent  news-room,  cus- 
tom-house, and  other  public  offices,  adjoin.  It  was  only 
built  ten  years  since,  at  an  expenceof  200,000  dollars ;  but 
the  original  subscribers  have  sunk  most  of  their  money, 
from  that  part  of  the  building  which  was  constructed  for 
letting  out  to  shopkeepers  and  lawyers  being  unoccu- 
pied. 

The  city  contains  upwards  of  70,000  inhabitants,  and 
possesses  considerable  trade,  particularly  in  flour  and 
cotton ;  every  stream  in  their  vicinity  being  studded  with 
mills.     It  is  not  quite  so  regularly  built,  being  upon  very 
abrupt  ground,  as  Philadelphia;  but  contains  many  excel- 
lent streets,  and  fine  market-houses.     Ample  proofs,  too, 
are  given  of  its  prosperity  on  the  shores  of  the  harbour, 
which  resound  with  the  clang  of  workmen's  hammers  em- 
ployed in  the  construction  of  numerous  ships  and  steam- 
vessels.     But  I  saw  nothing  more  remarkable  than  the 
extreme  beauty  of  the  females  :  the  appearance  of  the 
gentlemen  did  not  strike  me  as  any  thmg  very  extraor- 
dinary, rather  the  contrary ;  for,  if  I  were  to  give  my  can- 
did opinion,  I  should  say  they  were  like  the  merchants' 
exchange  stock — rather  below  par  ;  but  it  is  possible  they 
might  suflfer  some  little  from  contrast  to  their  fair  towns- 
women.     I  do  not  remember,  in  any  part  of  the  globe, 
seeing  amongst  the  females  so  much  loveliness  and  beauty, 
as  in  Baltimore.     It  is  true,  they  are  rather  more  dressy 
than  in  other  towns  in  the  States ;  but  they  have  good 
figures  to  set  oflf;  and  I  should  strongly  recommend  some 
of  the  young  men  from  other  parts  of  the  Union  to  at- 
tempt transplanting  a  few  of  them ;  for  in  my  after-travels 
I  visited  many  places  which,  I  am  sure,  stood  much  in 
need  of  them.     I  think,  however,  the  American  women 
generally,  when  young,  though  not  possessing  the  English 
freshness  of  colour,  are  exceedingly  handsome:  but  ("the 
fairest  still  the  fleetest,"  as  the  song  is,)  age,  or  rather  the 
marks  of  old  age,  creep  upon  them  sooner  than  on  the 
natives  of  more  temperate  climes. 

A  large  varnished  and  painted  board,  with  the  following 
strange  notice  upon  it,  in  gilt  or  yellow  painted  letters, 


I: 


>'  i( 


:i  • 


7« 


▲   SUBALTERN'S   FDRLOUOH. 


was  fixed  up  against  the  wall  opposite  the  window  of  my 
room,  in  a  must  conspicuous  part  of  the  hotel  :— > 

"  Constantly  on  hand  for  the 

> '  accommodation  of  travellers,  ^^ 

on  the  most  reasonable  terms, 

fine  linen  shirts,  cravnts, 

collars,  show  bosoms,  silk  stockings, 

gloves,  suspenders, 

•ilk  and  linen  pocket  handkerchiefs, 

razor  strops,  patent  Venus  pomatum 

for  dyeing  the  hair  and  whiskers 

without  injury  to  the  skin. 

Razors  set  in  order. 

Best  chewing  tobacco." 

But  this  medley  of  pomatum  and  tobacco  did  not  aato 
nish  me  Iialf  so  much  as  tho  following  strange  address  iu 
the  news-room,  to  the  visitors  of  the  largest  hotel  in  the 
Uniied  Stntes  : — '•  Five  dollars  rex^^ard  for  the  discovery 
o(  the  viliian  who  cuts  or  tears  the  newspapers  !  P^ 

The  third  day  after  my  arrival  at  Baltimore,  I  rode  out 
to  view  the  scenes  of  action  in  the  vicinity  during  the  last 
war ;  and,  in  twenty  minutes,  gained  the  heights  to  the 
eastward,  which  are  yet  scarred  and  furrowed  by  the  long 
chain  of  ontrenchmunls  and  redoubts  thrown  up  by  the 
American  army ;  and  before  which,  when  manned  by 
30,000  troops,  the  British  force  of  6000  halted  on  the 
13th  of  September;  and,  finally  retired  to  the  shipping 
without  attempting  a  reduction  of  the  works.  I  know  nut 
what  were  the  general  sentiments  of  the  Amerii^un  army 
collected  for  the  defence  of  Baltimore ;  but  n  gentleman 
who  served  in  it  assured  me  that  it  was  his  firm  opinion  if 
an  attack  had  been  resolutely  commenced,  their  troo])s 
would  have  fled  us  on  the  preceding  day,  'JMiere  can  be  no 
doubl  that  liultimore  owed  its  safety  to  the  artificial  bar's 
which  had  been  formed  in  front  of  Fort  M'Henry.and  not 
to  any  gallantry  of  its  militia.  For  it  is  evident  that, 
could  the  ahinping  have  ^ui..  *d  the  right  flank  of  their 
army,  not  only  would  their  entrenchments  have  been  ex- 
posed to  a  raking  fire,  but  a  force  would  have  been  landed 
within  them.  Proceeding  onwards  for  several  mileit 
tUrougha  thickly-wooded  country,  with  only  small  pulch- 


'i 
I* 


A  SUBALTERN  8   FURLOUGH. 


n 


es  of  cleared  ground,  and  a  wooden  shanty  at  intervals,  I 
crossed  the  farm  where  the  hard-contested  action  of  the 
12th  took  place,  from  which  the  Americans  retreated  in 
great  disorder  to  their  entrenchments  before  the  city.  In 
a  few  minutes,  I  arrived  at  a  small  monument  erected  to 
the  memory  of  the  a  pprentice  by  whose  hand  General  Ross 
fell;  who,  rather  unnecessarily, but  courageously,  exposed 
himself  in  a  petty  skirmish  with  a  scouting  party  of  the 
enemy's  riflemen.  It  is  situated  in  rather  a  romantic  spot, 
at  an  opening  of  the  forest  by  the  road-side,  upon  the 
place  where  the  British  general  fell.  There  is  an  in- 
scription upon  two  faces  of  it,  stating  that  it  was  erected 
by  the  first  mechanic  volunteers  to  the  memory  of 

"  Aquilla  Randall,  aged  twenty-four  years,  who  died  in  bravely 
defending  his  country  and  his  Itomti." 

On  a  third  side, 

"  In  the  skirmish  which  occurred 

at  this  spot 

between  tlin  advanced  party 

under  Major  Ricliard  K.  I  loath, 

of  thu  .5th  regiment  M.M., 

and  the  front  of  tlio  Br'tisli  column, 

Major  General  Ross, 
the  Commander  of  the  British  forces, 
received  his  mortal  wound." 

And  on  the  fourth. 


Ijoen  ox- 
li  landed 
\.\  nu\w 
patch- 


"  How  beautiful  is  death 
who  '  earned  by 
Virtue  /'» 

If  the  rifleman,  as  gononilly  stated  by  ovon  the  Ame- 
ricans themselves,  fired  (leliberaiely  from  behind  a  tree, 
whero  he  had  posted  himsell"  to  await  the  general's  so 
near  iippronch,  that  thero  was  no  pussibility  of  his  aim 
fiiiling,  I  think  the  liittrr  pint  of  tbe  ii<soription  might  u$ 
well  h;ne  Ih'ou  (hspeused  wilb;  (or  I  eiiimnt  see  what 
honour  Hhould  aci-nie, or  praiNc  be  awarded,  to  any  man 
fur  a  deed  whirh  was  but  a  sbaile  better  than  cold-blooded 
nssu.isination. 


i 


78 


A  subaltern's   rURLOUOH 


n'  . 


■ili 


I  left  Baltimore  in  the  afternoon  of  the  16th  of  June, 
and  travelled  for  the  first  time,  in  an  American  coach, 
which  I  found  to  be  a  very  clumsy  piece  of  mechanism, 
and  little  calculated  for  the  ease  or  comfort  of  passengers. 
This  is,  in  a  great  measure,  a  necessary  consequence  of 
the  bad  state  of  the  roads,  which  are  as  yet  quite  un- 
formed, and  more  uneven  than  the  bye-lanes  in  England. 
The  coachman  ^or  "  driver,"  for  he  would  feel  quite 
offended  if  you  hurt  his  dignity  so  much  as  to  address 
him  by  any  other  title,  in  the  United  States,)  very  unlike 
one  of  tho  English  fraternity  of  the  whip,  was  dressed  in 
a  pair  of  light-coloured  trowsers,  with  shoes  and  stock- 
ings, without  coat  or  waistcoat,  but  (boinorn.  rpehing  sum- 
mt;r's  day)  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  and  a  white  straw  hat 
turned  up  behind,  as  I  have  before  described.  He  drove 
most  furiously  over  every  thing,  rough  and  smooth  alike. 
Railways,  ravines,  and  water-courses,  which  cut  up  the 
road  in  countless  numbers,  were  no  impediments ;  he 
dashed  on  at  a  surprising  rate,  over  rough  stones  and 
tottering  bridges  that  would  have  cracked  every  spring 
in  an  English  carriage,  and  caused  its  coachman  to  de- 
liberate some  timte  before  ho  even  ventured  over  them  at 
a  foot  pace.  An  American  driver  allows  his  horses  to 
take  their  own  time  in  ascending  a  hill,  so  that  they  only 
move  some  little ;  but,  be  it  over  so  steep,  not  a  passenger 
for  a  moment,  dreams  of  relieving  tbem  of  his  weight, 
by  walking.  To  make  up  for  this  loss  of  time,  he  de- 
scends the  hills  (to  use  his  own  expression)  "  with  all 
steam  on,"  which  usually  terniinutes  in  a  full  gallop  ut 
the  bottom,  and  not  unfreiiuently  in  an  iip.set.  He  takes 
the  right  of  every  carriage  he  meets,  contrary  to  the  old 
English  stun/u  of, 

"  The  rule  of  llin  road  ii  n  p.\rtilox  (|iiito, 
An  iJiu  cari'ia^os  jii^  it  aloiitf.' 
If  you  ^(1  lo  lliu  \i)\\,  yoti  luc  sum  logo  right, 
thii,  if  you  ^0  rinht,  you  ^o  wrong." 

'I'hi^re  is  one  recommendation,  bowever,  to  the  "  drivors." 
that  tht^y  expect  no  fees  fron>  tbcir  piisHcngrrn  Ifuvn^ 
tomo  conaidurulion  lur  thu  lives  and  liiiiba  uf  travellers, 


ii 


A   SUBALTERNS    FURLOUGH. 


they  have  no  seats  upon  the  roof  of  their  coaches,  but  the 
body  is  so  capacious  as  to  afford  ample  room  for  three 
seats,  or  nine  people ;  the  centre  seat  moving  on  a  hinge 
in  the  middle,  so  as  to  be  pushed  back  when  the  door  is 
opened.     The  body  is  slung  upon  two  immensely  thick 
leathern  springs,  running  under  it  from  the  fore  to  the 
after  axle-trees ;  but  they  give  the  coach  so  much  piny, 
that,  in  crossing  a  water-course,  or  any  slight  hollow,  it 
pitches  down  so  heavily,  that  the  driver  s  footboard  strikes 
tiie  wheel-horses  on  the  back ;  on  which  occasion  a  cor 
responding  movement  is  made  by  the  passengers  within. 
There  were  but  two  besides  myself,  and  they  had  taken 
pos-scssion  of  their  places  before  I  entered ;  so  I  had  only 
the  choice  of  either  riding  with  my  back  to  the  horses,  or 
to  them ;  and,  wishing  to  take  advantage  of  their  society, 
I  preferred  the  former.    But,  although  accustomed  to  the 
rolling  of  a  ship,  I  found  it  utterly  impossible  to  retuiii 
possession  of  my  seat;  every  pitch  of  the  coach  sent  me 
with  force  on  the  centre  one,  and  sometimes  nearly  over 
it  into  my  fellow-travollers'  laps,  being  checked  \n   my 
course  only  by  the  broad  leathern  belt  which  crosses  th«' 
centre  of  the  vehicle  for  the  possengers  in  that  part  to 
lean  their  backs  against.     Nor  wos  it  until  after  much 
manojuvring  that  I  managed  to  secure  myself.     After  I 
had  travelled  a  few  hundred  miles,  I  became  more  accus- 
tomrd  to  the  motion,  and  disco vrred  that  the  heavier  a 
coach  was  laden  the  easi(«r  it  went,  ai/l  that  to  be  wedged 
in  between  two  fut  old  ladies,  or  gentle,m<'n,  was  a  great 
desideratum  in  o  long  und  rougl)  jonrui  v 

The  road  passed  throiiLrh  n  dull,  uncultivnNvl  country, 
with  not  even  a  stragirling  village  for  uf  w;>rd^  of  twenty 
miles'  and  the  few  hoiise.s  we  passed  were  me'<tly  mise- 
rable-looking log-hut.i,  inhnltited  I"  negroes,  whose  chief 
occupation  appeared  to  consist  in  .Ln'adins,  '"ith  a  jjlough 
between  the  stumps  of  trees,  to  turn  up  ihi;  soil  aiijongst 
the  rows  of  Indian  corn.  The  conch  turned  off  the  road 
about  fifte«»ii  miles  from  Baltimore,  and  wound  its  wny 
through  the  maz«'s  of  the  forest.  I  i)ol<ingout  lo  .nscertain 
the  cause  of  such  a  detour,  1  saw  the  branch  of  a  tree  laid 
across  the  road,  und.  a  few  yards  farther,  a  broken  down 


Illi'p 


80 


A   SUBALTERN  8    FURLOUGH. 


wooden  bridge,  with  a  solitary  black  at  work  repairing  it. 
At  the  village  of  Rossburgn  the  scenery  became  more 
varied,  hill  and  dale,  intervened,  and  several  fine  farms 
began  to  show  themselves.    On  the  left  of  the  road,  near 
Bladensburgh,  was  an   English-looking  mansion,  with 
lodges  at  the  entrance  gate,  the  grounds  laid  out  with 
good  taste,  and  every  thing,  even  to  the  very  rail  fences 
of  the  fields,  betokening  an  opulent  and  good  practical 
farmer.     I  was  informed  it  was  the  property  of  Mr.  Cal- 
vert, a  descendent  of  the  Lord  Baltimore,  who  received  a 
grant  from  Charles  I.,  in  1632,  of  a  tract  of  country  on 
the  bay  of  the  Chesapeake,  which  he  named  Maryland,  in 
honour  of  Henrietta  Maria,  and  of  which  state  Baltimore 
is  now  the  capital.     His  brother,  Leonard  Calvert,  the 
following  year,  being  appointed  Governor  of  the  province, 
left  England  with  about  200  planters,  and  settled  on  the 
northern  bank  of  the  Potomac.   This  farm  comprises  near- 
ly 2000  ac  res,  and  is  inn  higher  state  of  cultivation  than 
any  I  saw.      De.sccmling  the  hill,  we  entered  the  small 
village  of  Bladensburgh,  which  does  not  contain  more 
than  two  brick,  and  but  lew  wooden  houses,  which  aro 
scattered  and  almost  concealed  amongst  the  trees,  with 
the  exception  of  one  small  street,  through  which   the 
main  road  passes,  and  iii  the  end  of  which  it  crosses  the 
eastern    branch  of  the   Potomac    by  a   wooden  bridge. 
Here  was  fought  the  action  which,  ni  1814,  d'jcided  the 
late  of  tlu)  capital  of  the  United  Suites.     The  road  from 
Nottingham,  by  whic'i  the  British  army  \nuler  General 
Ross  advanicd,  joins  the  Baltimore  road  at  the  village: 
by  some  sirunge  I'rror,  he  American  comnimuler  neglected 
to  deslrov  the  bridjrc,  or  even  to  dispute  vigorously  the 
pa:   age  "t  the  British  troops  across  it,  but,  aller  some 
i^ligbt  skirmishing.  huiI  rU"  dihchnrge  of  two  lield  pieces, 
he  awaited  their  lbrmati<Hi  and  attack  upon  the  rising 
'.■fround  and  larni-house  on  the  opjH)site  side  m  ihe  river. 
I  b'nci'  liis  loicps  (le(l  with  'he  ijreiitest  pr»Tipitiition ;  the 
snilors  alone   urtder  ('onuii-'dni ''  Bnr'ir\,  a'U'mptilig,  by 
*  .spirited    lesistiMU'e,  ((»    n-tiicM'     he   -  rrois  of  the  day. 
This   action   is  ii     ii(i|:ri  oi  icat  ainoiivy  thf  Americans 
A*n»Bt'l»e8,whofuc'     n-     ijull  it  th.'blaJensburgh  races; 


A  svbaltkrn's  furlough.  H 

and  a  Washington  poet  has  lately  celebrated  it  in  the 
following  terms :  . 

THE    BATTLE    GROUND. 

"  And  here  two  thousand  fought,  three  hundred  fell, 
And  fiflech  thousand  fled  ;  of  these  remain 
The  three  where  Barney  laid  them,  —they  sleep  welL 
0(  the  fifteen,  part  live  to  run  ngain  ; 
And  part  have  died  of  fevers  on  the  brain, 
Potions  and  pills — fell  agents — but  the  worst, 
As  Sewell*  in  his  pamphlet  proves,  is  thirst. 
*♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦* 


it-ncuiifl 
hriicc$; 


And  General  Winder,  I  believe,  is  doad. 

And  General  ( )  rclirotl  to  learned  ease, 

Posting  u  Icdffcr.     He  has  oxclianged  the  bed 

Of  fame  for  onv  of  featlu^ra,  and  the  fees 

Of  war  for  those  of  trade;  and,  where  the  trees 

Shook  at  his  voice,  all 's  still,  as  ere  itogan 

'riie  light;  for,  when  it  did,  they  chccr'd  and — ran. 

Ail,  save  old  Handspike  anil  his  <Tew — ihoy  sUxjd 
])rawn  u|),  oiio  coolly  biilloiiing  his  breeches, 
Another  liis  cluiek  helping  lo  a  c|uid 
Of  jiurscr's  pigtail.     No  long  windy  speeches — 
Kor  valour,  like  a  bishop,  Bcldinn  preaches — 
They  stood  like  men  jtnparcd  to  do  their  duty. 
And  fell,  us  they  iiad  dotie  it — rcti  and  smutty. 

Peace  to  them!  men  I  still  have  fo\md 
Thrtugh  sadly  loDkcd  on  by  us  laniUbrcd  people, 
iligh-soulM,  wann-liearli'd — triir,  it  must  bo  owned, 
'J'hey've  no  gnat  pretliloction  for  a  steeple, 
And  loo  much  I  ir  a  boiilr. — Hut  the  ground 
Slroii;;cst  in  liu'(!S  it  sd  in  wheat ;  the  sod 
May  liower  as  iiere,  whose  very  earth  is  blood.'' 

I  iK'iicvc  it  is  fully  nckno\vlr(l|!T(«(l,  in  overy  English 
nci'outit  of  llu^  action,  timt  no  troup.s  could  Imvo  bi'hnvrd 
worst'  linn  thti  Atncriciin  soldior.s.  and  nono  more  bravely 
than  the  Mailors,  who  worlo'd  tluMr  jii^iins  with  most  asto- 
ni.shiui>'  |)rouiHiori,  as  is  ti'^tiiiiMl  liy  tho  British  having 
upwards  of  &01)  lui'ii  killed  mu\  wounded  ;  while  the  Ame- 
rican loss  did  not  much  exceed  half  that  number.     Sinci 

*  Dincoune  on  Inltniperonc*. 


I 


*■; 


»; 


M!   : 


W  A   SUBALTERN  8    FURLOUGH. 

that  time,  their  naval  service  has  experienced  a  severe  loss 
in  the  person  of  Commodore  Decatur,  who  was  killed  in 
a  duel  on  the  high  ground  near  the  head  of  the  position 
their  army  occupied  upon  that  day. 

A  violent  thunder-storm  burst  upon  us  soon  after  leav- 
ing Bladensburgh,  from  which  we  were  ill  defended  by 
the  painted  canvas  curtains  of  our  vehicle.  Wet  and 
weary,  we  arrived,  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  at  the 
door  of  Oadsby's  hotel,  in  Washington. 


st>.  4f   \ 


;j  \ 


A   IStBiLTKRN's   FVALOtGH 


serere  loss 
IS  killed  in 
he  position 

I  after  leav- 

efended  by 

Wet  and 

ning,  at  the 


CHAPTER  VI. 


There  they  shall  found 
Their  goyemment,  and  their  great  senate  choose. 


MiLTOM. 


Where  commonweaUh  men,  starting  at  the  shade 
Which  in  their  own  wild  fancy  had  been  made, 
s  Of  tyrants  dream'd  who  wore  a  thorny  crown, 

And  with  state  bloodhounds  hunted  Freedom  down. 

To  rear  this  plant  of  Union,  till  at  length, 
Rooted  by  time  and  fostered  into  strength, 
Shooting  aloft  all  danger  it  defies, 
And  proudly  lifts  its  branches  to  the  skies. 

Churchill. 

On  the  following  day  (Sunday)  I  felt  so  sore  and 
shaken  with  my  rough  journey,  and  the  thermometer 
stood  so  high  (upwards  of  ninety  in  the  shade,)  that  1 
kept  within  doors  until  evening,  when  I  strolled  down  the 
broad  Pennsylvania  Avenue  for  an  hour  before  simset ; 
but  immediately  after  breakfast,  the  next  morning,  I  set 
off  to  feast  my  eyes  and  ears  upon  the  grand  object  of 
my  expedhion  from  Philadelphia :  to  wit,  the  Capitol,  and 
Congress  in  full  convention,  I  had  rather  hurried  my 
journey,  lest  the  House  should  adjourn;  and  considered 
myself  fortunate  in  finding,  upon  my  arrival,  that  the 
tariir  and  bank  bills  were  before  it,  and  in  all  human 
probability  would  fully  occupy  it  for  the  next  six  weeks. 

A  few  hundred  paces  from  the  hotel,  up  the  Pennsyl- 
vania Avenue,  I  crossed  a  small  lUuddy  creek,  classiontly 
denominated  the  Tiber,  and  soim  after  gained  the  large 
iron  gates  at  the  entrance  of  the  area  within  which  the 
('nniiol  is  situated.  It  is  upon  a  liifty  eminence,  over- 
looking thoplnin  upon  which  the  city  is  built ;  and  several 
broad  flights  of  steps  lead  lo  the  principal  entrance.  The 
first  stone  was  laid  by  Washington,  during  his  adminis- 
tration, in  September,  I?1W,  but  it  was  not  limshed  to  its 
present  state  until  some  titne  after  the  conclusion  of  hosti- 
lities in  1815,  previously  f.»  which  the  wings  only  wer« 
I'wilt  of  substantial  uaiterials.  ihe  intermediate  .spHce  l>«- 


JSK' 


'■■■I,! 


.1 


I 


■w 


'■'  II  ' 


\>  M 


i    !iii    I 


84 


▲   SVBALTERN  S   rVRLOUGH. 


tween  them,  now  occupied  by  the  Rotunda,  being  formed 
of  wood.     It  was  consumed  in  the  conflagration  of  the 
public  buildings  which  ensued  on  the  entrance  of  the 
British  into  the  city,  on  the  evening  of  the  24th  of  August, 
1814.     It  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  area, 
which  contains  22i  acres  of  ground,  and  is  surroundea 
by  a  low  wall  and  strong  iron  balustrade,  a  small  shrub- 
bery of  low  trees  being  planted  within  the  railing.    The 
western  front,  towards  the  city,  is  tastefully  laid  out  in 
grass  terraces  and  gravel  walks ;  while  on  the  eastern  a 
garden  has  been  fenced  off  within  an  iron  railing,  to 
which  however  every  one  has  free  access.     The  eastern 
front  of  the  building  stands  upon  higher  ground  than  the 
western ;  and,  to  remedy  this  defect  in  the  appearance, 
an  earthen  terrace  was  formed  at  some  distance  (probably 
30  feet)  from  the  basement  story  on  the  latter  side,  which, 
in  addition  to  answering  the  primary  object,  affords,  by 
being  underbuilt,  excellent  cellars  for  fuel.     The  en- 
trance, then,  is  from  this  terrace  into  the  Rotunda,  which 
is  on  the  second  story,  and  paved  with  stone,  receiving 
light  from  the  dome,  96  feet  above  the  floor.    Its  diameter 
is  also  the  same ;  and  the  echo  of  footsteps  along  the 
pavement,  or  the  voices  of  people  conversing  almost 
equals  that  in  the  whispering  gallery  of  St.  Paul's.    The 
western  side  of  it  is  ornamented  with  four  large  oil- 
paintings,  by  Colonel  Trumbull,  an  officer  of  the  Ame- 
rican army,  and  aid-de-camp  to  Washington  during  the 
revolutionary  war.    Retiring  from  the  service  in  disgust 
at  the  irregular  promotion  of  some  officers  over  his  head, 
he  cultivated  his  natural  talent  for  drawing,  by  studying 
under  his  countryman.  West,  and  others  of  the  most 
eminent  artists  in  Europe.    The  paintings  are  placed  in 
niches  about  ten  inches  deep  in  the  wall,  and  arc  from  20 
to  21  feet  in  length,  and  iibout  13  in  height.     They  are 
all    historical  subjects,  taken  from  the  most  important 
events  of  the  era  connected  with  the  Revolution;  repre- 
senting tlie   IX'clarolion  of  Independence  in  the  State 
House,  Philadelphia,  4th  July,  1770;  Surrender  of  Bur- 
goyne,  at  Sarafojra,  1 7th  October,   1777;  that  of  Corn- 
wallu,  at  Yorku)\*n,  19th  October,  1781 ;  and  Washing- 
ion>  Resignation  of  his  Commissiun  into  the  handv  of 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


\g  formed 
[on  of  the 
ice  of  the 
)f  August, 
the  area, 
[irroundea 
lall  shrub- 
ing.    The 
aid  out  in 
3  eastern  a 
railing,  to 
he  eastern 
d  than  the 
ppearance, 
I  (probably 
de,  which, 
afTords,  by 
The  en- 
ida,  which 
,  receiving 
IS  diameter 
along  the 
g  almost 
il's.    The 
large  cil- 
the  Ame- 
uring  the 
|in  disgust 
his  head, 
studying 
the  mo6t 
placed  in 
from  20 
They  are 
mportant 
repre- 
hie  State 
of  Bur- 
lof  Corn- 
'ashing- 
landii  of 


Congress,  at  Annapolis,  23d  December,  1783.    All  hav? 
considerable  merit,  and  their  value  is  enhanced  by  most 
of  the  figures  represented  on  the  canvass  being  from  por- 
traits taken  for  the  express  purpose  by  Colonel  Trum- 
bull.    But,  in  the  last-mentioned  one,  the  two  stiflf  lines 
of  French  and  American  troops,  stationed  at  attention, 
and  looking  at  each  other  from  opposite  ends  of  the 
painting,  with  the  British  army  and  General  O'Hara  at 
their  head,  marching  up  the  centre  in  lengthened  array, 
appear  as  formal  and  old-fashioned  as  the  straight  rows 
of  Lombardy  poplars  in  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue.    The 
four  niches  on   the  opposite  side  of  the  Rotunda  are 
vacant ;  and,  being  merely  plastered  over,  look  shabby 
and  bare,  contrasted  with  the  richly  gilt  frames  which 
surround  them.    Captain  Hall  says  that,  when  he  was  m 
the  States,  the  subject  of  filling  them  with  suitable  paint- 
ings was  brought  before  Congress,  but  that  they  came 
to  no  decision  respecting  them  ;  nor  have  they  made  any 
farther  progress  as  yet.  Various  reasons  were  assigned 
to  me  for  the  necflect  of  what  any  one  would  imagine  was 
but  a  very  simple  undertaking,  and  required  little  or  no 
discussion.    A  youn<T  artist  proposed  to  fill  up  one  of  the 
vacant  niches  gratuitously,  thinking  the  name  he  should 
earn,  and  the  patronage  which  would  ensue  in  conse- 
quence of  such  an  act,  omple   remuneration :   but  ths 
House  declined  accepting  his  oflTer,  as  one  party  (the 
Battle  of  New-Orleans  being  the  subject  proposed)  would 
never  consent  to  any  thing  which  might  tend  to  add  lustre 
to  the  deeds  of  General  Jackson ;  and  another  stated  that 
though  the  artist  might  paint  one  gratuitously,  yet  he 
would  expect,  and  Congress  would  almost  be  bound  to 
give  him  an  order  to  fill  up  the  remaining  three  niches, 
that  too  much  money  had  already  been  lavished  upon 
Colonel  Trumbull  by  the  present  generation,  and  that  pos- 
terity might  fill  the  others      There  are  two  entrances  nilo 
*he  Kotunda  from  the  area  without,  and  two  others  from 
the  Senate  House  in  the  northern  wing,  and  from  the 
House  of  Representatives  in  the  southern  wing.     Over 
each  of  them  is  a  large  historical  piece  of  sculpture  ;  two 
are  from  the  chisel  of  Enrico  Causici,  of  Nerona,  who 
ntudicd  under  Canova  ;  the  one  representing  a  oombat 

▼OL.  I. — H. 


A  sabaltern's  fvrlough^ 


between  Daniel  Boon,  an  early  settler  in  the  west,  and  axt 
Indian,  in  1 773 ;  the  other  represents  the  landing  of  the 
Puritan  settlers  at  Plymouth,  in  3  020.  A  third,  by  A.  Ca- 
pellano,  also  a  pupil  of  Canova  s,  is  the  narrow  escape  of 
Captain  Smith  from  death  (when  captured  by  the  Indians 
in  1H06,)  through  the  intercession  of  Pocahontas,  the 
king's  daughter,  who,  in  1609,  prevented  the  entire  de- 
struction of  the  colony  at  Jamestown,  by  informing  the 
settlers  of  her  father's  design  of  cutting  them  off.  She 
was  subsequently  married  to  Mr.  Rolfe,  an  English  gen- 
tleman, with  whom  she  visited  his  native  country.  The 
fourth  piece  of  sculpture  is  by  R.  Gevelot,  representing 
the  treaty  between  Penn  and  the  Indians  in  1682.  On 
each  side  of  those  over  the  grand  entrances  are  the 
sculptured  heads  of  Raleigh,  Columbus,  Cabot,  and  La 
Sale.  Tiie  House  of  Representatives,  connected  with  the 
Rotunda  by  a  passage,  is  of  a  semi-circular  form ;  its 
greatest  length  bring  95  feet,  with  a  painted  roof  and 
dome  60  feet  in  lieight,  supported  by  about  24  columns 
of  highly-polished  Potomac  marble,  or  pudding  stone, 
with  capitals  of  white  Italian  marble,  which,  I  tiiought 
made  a  contrast  very  unpleas.np;to  the  eye,  reminding  one 
(as  a  gentleman  near  me  remarked)  of  a  negro  with  a 
white  turban  upon  his  head.  A  very  large  and  handsome 
chandelier  is  suspended  from  the  centre  of  the  dome,  in 
which  there  is  also  a  skylight,  and  small  lamps  are  at- 
tached to  each  column  ;  so  that  the  House  is  most  bril- 
liantly illuminated  at  night,  when  the  debates  continue 
beyond  day-light,which  is  seldom  the  case.  The  speaker's 
chair  is  in  the  centre  of  the  base  of  the  semi-circle,  and 
elevated  under  a  canopy  of  drapery  nine  steps  above  the 
floor  of  the  house ;  with  clerks'  desks  immediately  under, 
and  the  newspaper  reporters  in  a  low  gallery  on  each  side, 
and  in  tear  of  the  speiker.  The  members  sit  fronting  the 
speaker  in  amphitheatrical  rows,  and  each  is  furnished 
with  a  chair,  desk,  writing  materials,  and  last,  though  not 
least,  a  brass  spittoon.  In  rear  of  them,  and  between  the 
marble  columns,  are  those  persons  who,  though  not  mem- 
bers, are  yet  entitled  to  a  seat  upon  the  floor  of  the  house. 
The  strangers'  gallery,  of  marble,  with  three  rows  of 
cushioned  seats  and  a  carpeted  floor,  is  raised  about  12  or 


'  I 


It,  and  axt 
ng  of  the 
by  A.  Ca- 
escape  of 
e  Indians 
)ntas,  the 
entire  de- 
•ming  the 
off.     She 
rlish  gen- 
try.   The 
(resenting 
682.     On 
3  are  the 
t,  and  La 
d  with  the 
form ;  its 
roof  and 
I  cohimns 
ing  stone, 
I  thought 
nding  one 
TO  with  a 
landsome 
dome,  in 
ps  are  at- 
lost  bril- 
continue 
[speaker's 
lircle,  and 
ibove  the 
fly  under, 
pach  side, 
pnting  the 
Turnished 
ough  not 
Kveen  the 
lot  inem- 
le  house, 
rows  of 
)ut  12  or 


remarkably  imposing 

ightest  conception 

'r  so  grand,  and  it 

thino"  I  had  ever 


u"  a 


A  SUBALTERN  S    FURLOUGH.  |i 

I4feet  above  the  body  of  the  house,  and  occupies  the  space 
between  the  columns  and  the  wall,  the  full  extent  of  the 
semicircle.  Over  the  speaker's  chair  is  a  large  statue  of 
Liberty,  and  another  (what  it  was  intended  to  represent  I 
was  at  a  loss  to  discover  for  several  days)  is  opposite  to 
it  over  the  entrance  door.  A  full-length  portrait  of  La- 
fayette, with  the  American  standard  and  a  copy  of  the 
Declaration  of  Independence,  decorates  one  side  of  the 
House ;  and  it  is  intended  to  plnrc  one  of  Washington  on 
that  opposite.     About  150  m  s  were  present  when 

I  entered,  and  the  coup  d'a- 
and  magnificent.  I  had  not  fo 
that  I  should  have  witnesses 
struck  me  as  exceeding  in  spl  - 
seen.  The  subject  before  the  House  was  either  trifling  or 
very  uninteresting,  to  judge  from  the  whispering  and  talk- 
ingof  some  members,  and  the  incessant  rustling  of  letters, 
books,  and  newspapers,  kept  up  by  others.  It  was  in  vain 
that  I  strained  my  powers  of  hearing  to  the  uttermost; 
I  could  not  arrive  at  the  pith  of  a  single  speech.  The 
building  is  evidently  ill  calculated  for  sound,  a  speaker's 
voice  being  entirely  lo.st  in  the  vast  expanse  of  dome. 
An  attempt  was  made  to  rectify  this  fault,  by  hanging 
drapery  between  the  marble  columns,  but  it  has  been  of 
very  little  avail  in  confining  the  sound;  and  the  only  pro- 
ject which  is  likely  to  answer  would  be  by  having  an  arti- 
ficial roof,  or  a  glass  dome,  which  would  not  detract  much 
from  the  appearance,  suspended  a  few  feel  above  the  level 
of  the  strangers'  gallery. 

I  was  sitting  in  the  gallery  one  day,  during  a  discussion 
as  to  \/hether  the  house  should  make  a  grant  for  defray- 
ing the  expense  of  printing  the  debates,  and,  not  think- 
ing it  particularly  interesting,  o|U'ned  my  note-book,  and 
commenced  a  sketch  of  the  scene  before  ine,  I  had  not 
been  long  thus  occupied,  when  a  man,  placing  himself  be- 
side me,  said,  "  Can  you  it  take  down  as  fast  as  they 
speak  I"  "Much  faster,"  said  I  ;  "I  write  short-hand 
exceedingly  well."  1  thought  him  blessed  whh  a  very 
dull  genius,  or  that  my  sketch  must  be  a  very  wretched 
one ;  but  nothing  daunted  by  his  remark,  proceeded  with 
my  pencil  as  far  as  sketching  in  the  figure  which  had 


^, 


4^  ^Ty^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


itt  lU   i2.2 
S;  U&   110 


IL25  ■  1.4 


1.6 


V 


Photographic 

^Sciences 

Corporation 


II  VVItT  MAIN  ITMIT 
WIUTM.N.Y,  UIIO 

(71*)  171  4*09 


) 


%^ 


6"^ 


88 


▲   subaltern's   rURLOVOR. 


puzzled  me  so  exceedingly  before,  from  my  not  hting 
able  to  gain  a  front  view  of  it  to  see  what  it  represented ; 
when,  by  one  of  those  singular  pieces  of  good  luck  which 
sometimes  occur  to  travellers,  the  mystery  was  at  onc« 
unravelled.     Mr.  Adams  (the  late  presideiit,  who  had  re- 
sumed his  seat  in  the  House  of  Representatives)  rising  to 
address  the  speaker,  I  took  down  nis  speech  almost  ver* 
batim ;  and  as  he  had  a  clear  voice,  and  the  House  was 
called  thrice  to  order,  I  ascertained  that  it  was  to  the 
following  effect : — "  He  wished  that  the  resolution  now 
before  the  House  might  pass ;  for  he  considered  it  ths 
only  parliamentary,  or  rather,  he  should  say,  congres- 
sional  history  of  the  Union ;  for,  in  time  of  profound 
peace,  the  record  of  the  proceedings  of  the  two  Houses  of 
Congress  is  almost  in  fact  the  history  of  the  nation.     In 
Great  Britain,  a  recent  publication  of  the  parliamentary 
proceedings  formed  a  work  occupying  nearly  209  vol- 
umes, each  as  large  as  those  of  the  work  in  question:  in 
Great  Britain,  whose  people  sometimes  were  accused  of 
not  feeling  the  same  powerful  interest  in  the  concerns  of 
their  government  which  the  Americans  did,  so  much  inte- 
rest was  excited  by  this  publication,  that  it  sustained  itselC 
Surely,  if  there  was  any  thing  in  which  the  example  of 
England  should  have  weight  with  them,  and  if  there  was 
any  thing  in  the  British  House  of  Parliament  worthy  of 
imitation,  it  was  the  spirit  with  which  they  appropriated 
money  for  the  purpose  of  printing  the  debates.     He  sin- 
cerely hoped  gentlemen  would  have  some  regard  for  their 
posterity,  and  furnish  the  means  which  should  enablt 
them  to  learn  what  their  forefathers  had  'said  and  done. 
He  wished  to  ask  the  Speaker  what  wat  the  meaning  of 
that  beautiful  marble  etatue  over  the  clbck  at  the  en. 
trance  of  the  Houte, — Why,  it  wae  the  Mune  of  Hittory 
in  her  car,  looking  down  upon  the   memben  of  the 
Houie,and  reminding  them  that,  as  the  hour  paeaed,  aht 
wa»  in  the  attitude  of  recording  whatever  they  aaid  and  did 
upon  the  Hoor^tLn  admonition  well  worthy  of  being  re- 
membered.    The  reporters,  at  the  sides  ana  in  rear  o?  tlui 
Speaker's  chair,  were  the  scribes  of  that  Muse  of  Histo- 
tf ;  and  th«.'  publication  now  in  question  before  the  House 
was  the  real,  he  might  oven  say  the  living,  record  of  that 


4  tUBALTCRN's  FVRLOUOB. 


not  being' 
presented ; 
uck  which 
as  at  once 
ho  had  re- 
s)  rising  to 
ilmost  ver- 
^ouse  was 
vas  to  the 
lution  now 
ered  it  the 
/,  congres- 
f  profound 
Houses  of 
lation.     In 
liamentaTT 
y  203  vol- 
[uestion:  in 
accused  of 
concerns  of 
much  inte- 
lined  itselC 
example  of 
f  there  was 
t  worthy  of 
ipropriated 
He  sin- 
rd  for  their 
uld  enabl* 

and  done. 
meaning  of 
at  the  en* 
')/  Hittory 
r»  of  the 
mtsed,  ehe 
lid  and  did 

beinff  re- 
rear  of  th» 
Bof  Histo- 
the  House 
!crd  of  that 


hieioric  muse  {  and  he  concluded  by  trusting  that  the 
same  spirit  which  incited  them  to  make  the  grant  for 
erecting  that  statue  would  now  urge  them  to  pass  the  one 
before  the  House." 

I  afterwards  heard  that  the  statue  u-as  designed  by  an 
Italian  sculptor,  who  died  since  in  Washington :  the  Muse 
of  History  is  represented  with  a  book  and  pencil  in  the 
attitude  of  writing,  and  standing  in  a  winged  car  ^the 
•lock  forming  a  wheel)  which  passes  over  the  surface 
of  the  globe. 

The  Senate  House  is  of  the  same  shape  as  that  of  the 
Representatives,  but  smaller;  being  only  74  feet  in  length 
by  42  in  height.  Upon  entering  the  light  strangers' 
gallery,  which,  supported  by  iron  pillars,  runs  round  the 
circular  part  of  it,  the  following  notice  posted  on  the  door 
met  my  eye  and  excited  a  smile  : 

"  Gentlemen  will  be  pleased  not  to  place  their  feet  on  the  board 
in  front  of  the  gallery,  aa  the  dirt  from  tk*m  faUi  upon  Stnotmni' 
Aiodf." 

The  air  and  demeanour  of  thL>  senators  struck  me  as 
rather  more  aristocratical  than  that  of  the  members  of 
the  other  house.  During  the  time  the  houses  are  ac- 
tually  sitting,  a  flag  flies  upon  the  summit  of  the  dome 
over  ench  wing  ;  and,  if  either  adjourns,  that  flag  only 
is  struck. 

Adjoining  the  Rotunrla  on  the  western  front  of  the 
Capitol  is  the  Congress  Library — a  room  of  about  03  by 
35  feet,  and  calculated  to  contain  upwards  of  30,000 
volumes.  At  present  it  has  about  13,000,  which  have 
been  collected  since  1814,  when  the  small  library  of  9000 
was  destroyed. 

— —  •*  ptidct  hrec  opfirobrin  nobla, 
Et  dlci  putuiue,  et  non  potuisio  rcfolli  ]*' 

There  are  two  busts  of  eminent  Americans  by  Forsicaand 
an  old  portrait  of  Columbus  in  it.  From  the  outer  balcony 
there  is  a  fine  prospect  of  the  brond  Potomnc,  and  the 
rising  ground  with  Arlington  House  (the  property  of  Mr. 

H* 


▲  subaltern's  furlough. 


Custis,  related  to  the  Washington  family)  on  the  oppo* 
site  bank;  the  mall,  the  navy-yard,  and  the  towns  of  Alex- 
andria and  Georgetown  in  the  distance.  The  basement 
story  is  occupied  by  various  courts,  offices,  and  bar-rooms. 
The  total  cost  of  the  building  was  2,508,500  dollars 
(640,090/.,)  and  it  covers  one  acre  and  a  half  of  ground, 
and  1820  square  feet ;  the  length  of  the  front  being  350, 
the  depth  of  the  wings  121,  and  the  height  to  the  top  of 
the  centre  dome  120  feet.  The  exterior,  although  of 
white  freestone,  is  painted  white ;  which  tasteless  pro- 
ceeding is  explained  by  the  following  extract  from  the 
Travel l<rs'  Guide :  "  Captain  Hall,  in  nis  Travels,  speak- 
ing of  the  Capitol,  says,  *  By  some  strange  perversity  of 
taste,  however,  for  whicb  I  never  could  learn  to  whom 
the  public  were  indebted,  this  fine  building  has  been 
covered  with  a  coating  of  paint.'  He  should  have  been 
told  that  the  painting  was  to  hide  the  smoke  occasioned 
by  the  conflagration  which  succeeded  the  capture  of  the 
cityby  the  British  troops  in  1814."  The  Editqr  should 
have  added  that  British  troops  would  never  have  been 
guilty  of  such  excesses,  and  that  this  act  of  severity  on 
their  part  would  not  have  happened,  if  the  American 
army  which  invaded  Canada  unaer  General  Harrison,  in 
1812,  had  not  wantonly  destroyed  by  fire  the  Moravian 
village  on  the  20ih  of  October ;  and  if  General  M'Clure 
had  not,  at  the  end  of  the  following  year,  burnt  the  whole 
town  of  Newark,  sparing  no  private  property,  under  the 
pretext  of  securing  the  American  frontier.  The  British, 
on  the  controry,  respected  private  pronerty,  and  destroyed 
only  public  buildings,  in  retaliation  for  this  gross  breach 
of  the  laws  of  civilizod  wi.r<kre.  Yet  the  circumstance 
atone  ( f  the  British  flag  r  ce  having  been  fired  upon 
as  it  entered  VVashin^inn,  the  General's  horse  killed, 
was  sufficient  to  justify  almost  any  steps,  in  addition  to 
putting  to  death  every  one  in  the  house  whence  the  shot 
proceeded,  as  also  rn/ing  the  building  to  the  ground. 

At  the  sumnii'  ot  th<!  steps  on  the  western  sido  is  a  fine 
monument  ercctod  to  the  memory  of  the  officers  who  fell 
9t  Tripoli  in  1804.    There  are  several  allegorical  figure* 


*^# 


A   SUBALTERN  S   VURLOUOH. 


91 


the  oppo- 
18  of  Alex- 
basement 
)ar-roomB. 
)0  dollars 
)f  ground, 
being  350, 
the  top  of 
though  of 
eless  pro- 
from  tho 
els,  speak- 
rversity  of 
to  whom 
has  been 
have  been 
)ccasioned 
ure  of  the 
to,r  should 
[lave  been 
leverity  on 
American 
nrrison,  in 
Moravian 
1  M'Clure 
tho  whole 
under  the 
le  British, 
destroyed 
)S8  breach 
umstance 
irt'd  upon 
rse  killed, 
ddition  to 
0  tho  shot 
■round, 
o  is  a  fine 
B  wlio  fell 
:al  figuTM 


round  the  column,  which  are  described  in  part  of  the  in- 
scription on  the  pedestal : — 

"  The  love  of  glory  inspired  them — Fame  has  crowned  their 
deeds— History  records  the  event — The  children  of  Columbia 
admire — and  Commerce  laments  their  fall." 

It  Stood  until  very  lately,  in  the  navy  yard,  because  (as 
was  said)  Congress  would  not  give  it  so  conspicuous  a 
situation  at  the  Capitol  au  the  naval  officers  expected.  I 
was  glad  to  see  that  they  had  shown  the  good  taste, 
at  the  time  of  its  removal,  to  efface  the  inscription  of 
•*  Mutilated  by  the  British  in  1814,"  which  had  occupied  a 
{irominent  place  upon  it  for  so  many  years.  The  mutila- 
tions, in  the  first  place,  were  very  slight,  the  head  of  a 
figure  and  a  few  letters  of  the  inscription  being  broken  off; 
whereas,  had  the  British  troops  been  bent  upon  destroy- 
ing the  whole  monument,  a  few  blows  from  the  butt-end 
of  a  musket  would  have  shattered  the  greater  part  of  it  to 
pieces  immediately.  The  little  injury  which  it  sustained 
arose,  no  doubt,  from  tho  same  spirit  of  mischief  which 
has  defaced  so  many  of  the  statues  in  Westminster  Abbey 
and  the  public  edifices  in  England.  It  must  have  escaped 
the  notice  of  the  illiberal  authors  of  tho  inscription  that, 
so  long  as  it  remained,  it  was  but  a  memento  that  their 
capital  had  once  been  in  the  possession  of  foreign  troops : 
whether  this,  or  the  knowledge  that  it  was  a  gross  libel 
upon  the  British  nation,  prompted  the  withdrawal  of  it, 
I  know  not. 

During  my  stay  at  Wasliington  I  frequently  attended 
tho  debates,  and  had  to  puss  many  a  tedious  hour  in  at- 
tcmptingto  follow  tho  rhupsodiosofsomo ambitious  young 
lawyer,  who  had  got  pusso.'ision  of  tho  iloor,  and  made  a 
speech  of  almost  interminable  length,  wearying  out  the 

Eationco  of  every  member  in  tho  House.  He  would  pro- 
ably  oflorwards  send  it  to  tho  press,  and  distribute  it  in 
pamphlets  for  the  edification  of  nis  constituents.  On  m? 
expressing  surprise  that  such  a  prosor  was  not  forthwith 
coughed  (town,  some  one  near  mo  said,  *' Every  one  is  at 
liberty  here  to  sneak  as  mncli  as  ho  pleases.  Since  the 
meeting  of  the  nrst  Provincial  Congress,  up  to  tho  pre- 


,<) 


A  SUBALTERN'S   rUKLOUOR. 


II 


I 


sent  period,  no  session  had  been  so  stormy  as  this  one  ; 
nor  had  such  actsof  personal  violence  arising  from  debates 
been  committed  upon  the  members,  one  of  whom  had  been 
caned  in  the  public  streets,  and  another  shot  at  with  a 

Eistol  as  he  was  descending  the  Capitol  steps.  A  good 
earty  cough,  the  cry  of  "  order,"  or  shuffling  with  the 
feet  upon  the  floor  of  the  House,  would  have  put  down 
the  unruly  speaker  and  prevented  both  occurrences.  The 
public  funeral  of  Mr.  Johnson,  a  member  from  Virginia, 
who  was  unfortunately  drowned  in  the  Potomac  by  slip* 
ping  oflT  the  pier,  at  Alexandria,  in  a  dark  and  stormy 
night,  took  place  a  few  days  afler  my  arrival,  in  the  burial 
ground  near  the  Capitol ;  the  president  and  members  «{ 
both  houses  attending,  and  wearing  crape  round  the  left 
arm  for  thirty  days. 

When  the  city  was  flrst  planned,  it  was  supposed  that 
it  would  have  been  built  upon  the  rising  ground,  which  i$ 
a  continuation  cf  the  Capitol  hill,  as  being  a  healthier  and 
finer  sititation  than  the  swampy  flat  between  it  and  the 
Potomac.  Mr.  Law,  an  Englisii  gentleman  speculating 
upon  such  a  result,  erected  a  square  of  houses  to  the  south 
of  the  Capitol,  and  some  few  were  rented  in  the  flrst  in- 
stance ;  but  the  tide  of  population  turned  in  a  diflerent 
direction,  and  settling  in  the  low  ground  along  the  Penn- 
sylvania Avenue,  betx<  een  the  president's  house  and  the 
Capitol,  Mr.  Law's  houses  were  soon  abandoned,  and  be- 
came a  heapof  ruins.  He  first  settled  in  the  States  thirty 
years  since ;  and,  marrying  a  niece  of  Washington's,  was 

auite  an  enthusiast,  and  lost  a  large  fortune  in  promoting 
le  growth  of  the  city. 

Washington  certainly  exhibited  fewer  symptoms  of  pros- 
perity than  any  town  I  visited  in  the  Union.  There  was 
none  of  that  bustle  which  is  always  attendant  upon  a 
thriving)-  place ;  and  the  long  straight  streets,  with  a  few 
idlers  strolling  about  in  them,  betokened  a  place  fast  fall- 
ing to  decay.  At  the  present  rate  of  increase  in  buildings, 
fifteen  centuries  will  scarcely  suffice  to  fill  up  the  original 
plan,  which  woi  on  a  great  and  magnificent  scale;  but 
the  situation,  in  a  mercantile  point  of  view,  is  decidedly 
bad ;  the  river  is  but  just  navigable  f(  r  vt  jsels  of  moderate 
burthen  up  to  the  city,  300  miles  distant  from  the  sea ; 


I 


A  SUBALTERN  8  FURLOVOH. 


03 


B  this  one ; 
om  debates 
fn  had  been 

at  with  a 
I.  A  good 
^  with  the 

put  down 
inces.  The 
1  Virginia, 
ac  by  slip* 
nd  stormy 
i  the  burial 
nembers  «{ 
ind  the  left 

jposed  that 

d,  which  is 

althier  and 

it  and  the 

ipeculatinff 

0  the  south 

he  first  in- 

a  diHerent 

the  Penn- 

se  and  the 

'd,  and  be- 

ates  thirty 

ton's,  wos 

)romoting 

ns  of  pros- 
he  re  wns 
It  upon  a 
ith  a  few 

fast  fall- 
)uildings, 
e  original 
cale;  but 
decidedly 
moderate 

the  sea ; 


and  Baltimore,  so  close  in  the  vicinity  of  the  city,  and  of 
much  easier  access,  engrosses  all  tne  trade  of  the  sur- 
rounding country.  The  present  population  of  Washing^ 
ton,  including  men  of  colour,  is  estimated  at  20,000, 
though  I  should  not  have  judged  it  at  more  than  two- 
thirds  of  that  number.  The  ground  which  is  cleared 
from  forest,  and  upon  which  the  plan  of  the  city  was 
traced  out  as  follows,  is  14  miles  in  circumference.  There 
were  to  have  beei  five  broad  streets  from  120  to  160 feet 
in  width,  and  from  3  j  to  5  miles  in  length,  called  Ave- 
nues. 

•*    '  ''So  called,  as  being  void  of  trees, 

'         Like  Lucuf  from  no  light.", 

and  named  after  different  states  diverging  from  the  Capi- 
tol, which  is  near  the  centre  of  the  intended  city;  several 
more,  named  in  the  same  manner,  were  to  branch  off 
from  the  president's  house,  ll  mile  north  west,  and  from 
an  open  space  1  mile  east  of  the  Capitol,  as  other  centres: 
These  avenues  generally  run  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.,  and! 
from  S.  E.  to  N.  W.,  and  are  intersected  by  streets  run- 
ning direct  to  the  cardinal  points ;  those  north  and  south 
being  numbered  from  1  to  30,  and  those  east  and  west 
according  to  the  letters  of  the  alphabet ;  but,  as  the  num- 
bers commence  from  each  front  of  the  Capitol,  it  is  nece»- 
sary  they  should  be  defined  by  their  bearings  per  com> 
pass  from  it .  thus,  A  street  north  :  A  street  south  ;  29 
street  east,  29  west.  Nearly  all  the  present  buildings 
are  along  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue,  in  which  the  presi- 
dent's house  is  situated,  and  which  is  the  only  one  in  which 
any  trees  are  planted.  The  district  of  Columbia,  in  which 
the  city  is  situated,  is  a  ten-mile  square,  under  the  imme- 
diate direction  of  Congress,  having  been  ceded  to  th« 
United  States  in  1700,  by  Maryland  and  Virginia,  and 
the  site  of  the  city  fixed  upon  a  peninsula,  formed  by  two 
branches  of  the  Potomac.  In  1784,  an  ordinance  was 
passed  by  Congress,  appointing  commisnioners  to  pur- 
chase the  land  on  the  Delaware,  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  Falls,  for  the  purpose  of  erecting  public  buildings 
for  the  reception  of^  Congress,  and  the  omcers  of  goverik- 


A  SUBALTERN  8  FURLQUOH. 


ment ;  but  the  southern  states  had  sufficient  interest  to 
prevent  this  appropriation  of  funds,  which  required  the 
assent  of  nine  states ;  and  so  many  conflicting  interests 
were  brought  into  operation,  whenever  the  subject  was 
discussed  by  Congress,  that  no  motion  designating  a  more 
central  place  could  succeed.  New- York  had  been  ear- 
nestly supported ;  but  at  length  those  in  favour  of  Phila- 
delphia and  the  Potomac  entered  into  agreement,  by  which 
it  was  stipulated  that  Congress  should  hold  its  sessions 
in  that  city  for  ten  years,  during  which  period  buildings 
should  be  erected  on  the  Potomac,  to  which  the  govern- 
ment should  remove  at  the  expiration  of  the  term.  Thus 
was  a  small  majority  created,  by  the  representatives  of 
Pennsylvania  and  Delaware  having  united  with  those  who 
were  favourable  to  the  Potomac ;  a  bill  which  was  brought 
before  the  House  in  conformity  with  their  arrangement, 
was  passed;  and  Washington,  during  his  administration 
as  president,  fixed  on  the  place  which  should  become 
the  capital  of  the  United  States.  From  its  situation  no 
one  would  ever  imagine  it  to  be  a  healthy  place ;  owing 
to  the  great  exhalations  from  the  low  ground  during  the 
excessive  heat  of  summer:  yet  it  appears,  from  Elliott's 
history  of  the  ten-mile  square,  that  "the  average  number 
of  deaths  in  a  year,  is  as  I  to  53;  while  in  Europe  it  is 
as  1  in  28,  and  in  large  cities  1  in  33.  From  the  same 
returns,  bilious  fevers  and  consumptions  caused  one-fiflh 
of  the  mortality.  A  friend  of  mine,  speaking  to  a  shop* 
keeper  in  the  city  one  day,  said,  "  You  must  be  very  dull 
here  when  Congress  has  adjourned?"  *'0h,  no!"  ans- 
wered he,  "  Not  so  dull  either ;  we  have  plenty  of  (ever 
and  ague  to  keep  us  stirring."  But  after  letting  off  this 
little  flash  of  American  wit,  he  acknowledged  that  there 
was  but  little  business  until  winter,  when  the  city  was  all 
life  again.  An  attempt  is  now  making  to  counteract  the 
bad  eflt'cts  of  the  marshy  ground,  by  excavating  a  broad 
canal  up  the  course  of  the  Tiber  creek,  from  its  junction 
with  the  Potomac,  near  the  president's  house,  until  it 
nears  the  garden  of  the  Capitol  and  then  re-enters  the 
eastern  branch  of  the  river  by  two  mouths,  one  near  the 
navy  yard  and  the  other  at  the  arsenal.  The  excessive 
beat  of  the  summer  must  always  render  the  city  an  UQ* 


interest  to 

M]uired  the 

g  interests 

lubject  was 

ing  a  more 

[  been  ear- 

r  of  Phila- 

it,  by  which 

its  sessions 

i  buildings 

he  govern- 

jrm.  Thus 

Bntatives  of 

i  those  who 

as  brought 

'angement, 

linistration 

Id  become 

ituation  no 

ce;  owing 

during  the 

m  Elliott's 

Renumber 

urope  it  is 

1  the  same 

d  one-fifth 

to  a  shop* 

very  dull 

not"  ans- 

y  of  fevef 

7  off  this 

nat  there 

ty  was  all 

teract  the 

ga  broad 

junction 

until  it 

nters  the 

near  the 

excessive 


▲  subaltern's  rt^RLOVOH.  9^ 

pleasant  residence  during  several  months.  The  thermo' 
meter  frequently  stood  as  high  as  ninety-six  degrees  in 
the  shade  at  Oadsby's  hotel :  the  members  of  Congrese 
might  daily  be  seen  crawling  along  the  Pennsylvania 
Avenue  towards  the  Capitol,  with  umbrellas  to  protect 
them  from  the  powerful  rays  of  the  sun,  at  ten  o'clock; 
and  though  receiving  eight  dollars  per  day  (1/.  i4».,) 
their  places  were  not  sinecures,  the  House  only  adjourn- 
ing for  an  early  dinner  at  two  o'clock,  and  then  sitting 
again  until  sunset,  and  once  until  nine  at  night.  One  or 
two  days  before  I  left  the  city,  the  sergeant  at  arms  ab- 
sconded with  a  considerable  sum  of  money  he  had  drawn 
for  various  members  of  the  House  of  Representatives, 
who  had  been  in  the  habit  of  allowing  him  to  fill  up  blank 
checks  with  their  signatures  attached,  for  their  daily  al- 
lowance of  eight  dollars ;  and,  in  most  instances,  he  had 
overdrawn  the  sum  due.  No  money  being  found  in  his 
possession  when  arrested  at  Bladensburgh,  the  members 
determined  not  to  be  losers  by  him,  and  passed  a  resolu- 
tion that  the  amount  he  had  failed  to  pay  over  to  them 
should  be  made  good  out  of  the  contingent  fund  of  the 
House. 

Having  described  the  city  of  Washington  as  it  is  upon 
paper,  I  will  now  attempt  to  give  an  idea  of  its  actual 
state.  Let  the  reader  fancy  himself  standing  with  his  ] 
face  to  the  west  on  the  summit  of  the  Capitol  hill,  a  slight 
eminence,  probably  60  or  70  feet  in  height,  crowned  by  a 
large  and  magnincent  building  with  three  domes,  the 
centre  one  considerably  higher  than  the  other  two.  Im- 
mediately under  him  is  a  terraced  garden,  and  beyr  1 
that  on  the  other  side  of  a  broad  road,  is  another  filuii 
with  young  trees  of  every  description  the  country  pro- 
duces :  while  a  long  wide  street,  planted  with  four  rows 
of  tall  Lombardy  poplars,  runs  airectly  from  him  in  a 
north-westerly  direction,  expanding  into  a  small  town  as 
it  recedes  into  the  distance.  To  his  right,  is  a  continua- 
tion of  the  eminence  upon  which  he  stands,  until  it  is  skirt- 
ed by  the  dark  line  of  forest  two  or  three  miles  distant. 
In  his  rear,  along  the  sides  of  the  Bladensburgh  road,  is 
the  same  broken  ground,  but  partly  cultivateo.  To  his 
left  a  small  and  rugged  street  runs  from  the  Capitol  gates 


A  bvbaltern's  furlough, 


in  a  southerly  direction  over  the  hilly  ground,  and  at 
the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  are  seen  the  large  sheds 
of  the  navy  yard.  Rather  more  to  the  south,  hut  at  the 
distance  of  two  miles,  near  the  Potomac,  is  the  long  brick 
building  of  the  penitentiary,  with  the  arsenal  in  rear  of  it. 
-On  the  open  ground  between  them  and  the  Capitol  are 
the  ruins  and  gable  ends  of  some  houses.  A  canal  filled 
with  water  in  some  parts,  and  in  others  only  partially  ex- 
cavated, winds  towards  him  from  the  river,  across  which 
the  remains  of  a  wooden  bridge,  a  mile  and  a  quarter  in 
length,  are  to  be  seen.  Such  is  Washington!  Upon  the 
whole,  it  has  a  desolate  appearance,  which  is  increased  by 
the  land  marked  out  for  its  site  being  entirely  destitute  of 
trees,  and  only  here  and  there  (excepting  where  the  bie- 
sent  town  is  situated)  are  scattered  houses,  each  standing 
isolated,  as  if  requiring  some  support  on  either  side.  The 
inhabitants,  and  Americans  generally,  fondly  flatter  them- 
selves that  it  will  some  day  vie  in  splendour  with  ancient 
!  Rome.  The  only  comparison  it  bears  at  present  is  with 
the  modern  city,  m  the  ruins  of  the  Potomac  bridge,  and 
Mr.  Law's  houses.  The  scene  altogether  is  described 
most  forcibly  by  a  French  lady,  who  likened  it  to  a  town 
gone  ovti  on  a  visit  into  the  eountry. 


,.,.,.•    ■;■ 


...        ■f 


ind,  and  at 
targe  sheds 
,  but  at  the 
long  brick 
n  rear  of  it. 
Capitol  are 
canal  filled 
artially  ex- 
ross  which 
quarter  in 
Upon  the 
icreased  by 
destitute  of 
ere  the  pre- 
•h  standing 
side.  The 
atter  them- 
ith  ancient 
ent  is  with 
)ridge,  and 
i  described 
t  to  a  town 


v.    .ivV 


iS 


A  subaltern's  fttrlouob 


CHAPTER  VII. 

So  peaceful  restq  without  a  stone,  a  name. 


The  fall  of  waters !  rapid  as  the  light 
,  The  flashing  mass  foams  shaking  the  abyss. 


97 


Pope. 


Btroit. 


Early  on  the  morning  of  the  21st  of  June,  I  took  the 
steam-boat  and  glided  rapidly  down  the  broad  "  river  of 
Swans"  (as  the  poot  Indians  termed  the  stream,)  to  Alex- 
andria, in  the  district  of  Columbia,  seven  miles  below  the 
city,  but  on  the  Virginia  side  of  the  Potomac.  It  con- 
tains about  8000  inhabitants,  and,  like  most  American 
towns  of  moderate  size,  has  a  museum,  which,  however, 
it  is  rather  difficult  for  a  stranger  to  find,  being  placed  in 
the  dark  upper  story  of  an  old  brick  mansion,  where  some 
excellent  specimens  of  natural  history  are  seen  to  very 
little  advantage.  The  museums  in  the  States  are  generally 
good,  but  the  owners  (one  and  all)  possess  a  strange  taste 
for  collecting  such  a  quantity  of  trash  and  childish  trifles, 
as  pieces  of  old  shells,  signal  and  Congreve  rockets,  grape- 
shot,  &c.,'fired  from  the  British  squadron,  under  Captain 
Gordon,  at  the  White  House,  a  few  miles  below  the 
town ;  jackets  of  volunteers  stained  with  blood,  haversacks 
of  sergeants  of  marines  killed  in  action,  &c.  that  it  is 
quite  a  labour  to  search  for  what  is  really  worthy  of  no- 
tice. There  are  several  relics  of  Washington's;  such  as 
his  military  canteen,  mason's  dress,  and  the  red  satin 
robe  in  which  he  was  christened,  preserved  with  the  great- 
est care;  as  also  two  of  his  original  letters,  one  of  which, 
written  a  month  before  his  death,  was  penned  in  a  fine 
bold  hand.  The  old  man  in  charge  of  the  Museum  point- 
ed out  two  colours  taken  from  the  British  duringthe  Re- 
volution ;  one  from  the  Hessians,  at  the  battle  of  Trenton, 
and  the  other  belonging  to  the  7th  Fusileers,  surrender- 
ed by  Lord  Cornwallis  at  Yorktown.  There  was  a  la- 
belled paper  on  each,  the  first  bearing  *^ Alpha"  the  lat- 
ter **  Omega  J*  He  said  that  Washington  had  presented 
them  thus  to  the  Museum,  as  the  fruits  of  his  first  and 

VOL.  1. — I. 


\ 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


I  -i 


last  victory.  As  the  old  man  was  in  his  own  castle,  I  ^d 
not  like  to  question  the  veracity  of  his  statement;  but  I 
think  he  must  have  judged  from  my  countenance  that 
I  was  rather  sceptical. 

Having  hired  a  horse,  I  proceeded  on  my  journey  to 
Mount  Vernon,  the  burial-place  of  Washington.  The 
guide-book  told  me  that  "the  road  to  it  was  uninhabited 
and  difficult  to  trace;"  but  setting  forth  on  my  pilgrimage, 
and  travelling  over  a  sandy,  poor  country,  I  managed 
tolerably  well  for  the  first  few  miles;  until,  arriving  at  the 
meeting  of  four  roads,  I  was  at  a  complete  nou'plusf  there 
being  neither  sign-post  nor  living  being  from  whom  I 
might  gain  further  information.  Trusting  to  my  horse 
ana  good  luck,  I  rode  on  at  a  brisk  trot  for  several  miles, 
when,  meeting  a  woman,  I  discovered  that  I  had  taken  a 
wrong  road,  so  struck  off  at  once  into  the  forest  j  and 
after  losing  my  temper  ten  times,  and  my  road  twice  as 
often,  by  an  hour  after  mid-day  I  arrived  at  the  lodge* 
gates  of  Mount  Vernon. 

I  was  obliged  to  adopt  this  inconvenient  method  of  tra- 
velling, as  the  steam  vessels  from  Alexandria,  which  pss 
within  200  yards  of  the  house,  are  not  permitted  to  land 
passengers,  on  the  plea  that  great  depredations  were  com* 
mitted  amongst  the  trees  and  gardens.  The  proprietor 
certainly  does  not  appear  to  encourage  pilgrims  to  the 
tomb;  the  road  through  the  grounds  from  the  lodge  to 
the  house  being,  if  possible,  worse  than  the  highway,  and 
running  for  a  considerable  distance  up  a  deep  ravine,  and 
over  the  rough  stony  bed  of  a  winters  torrent. 

It  was  much  the  fashion,  during  my  stay  in  America, 
for  the  Volunteer  Corps  and  "Republican  Associations  of 
young  men,"  to  make  a  pilgrimage  to  the  tomb  in  a  bo- 
dy; and  the  middle  and  southern  States,  who  never  allow 
an  opportunity  of  having  a  laugh  against  their  Yankee 
brethren  to  escape  them,  say,  that  the  order  forbidding 
steamers  to  land  their  passangers  arose  in  consequence 
of  a  gentleman  cutting  so  many  walking-sticks  from  the 
sacred  ground  that,  upon  his  return  to  Boston,  he  made 
a  good  round  sum  of  money  by  retailing  them  at  a  dol- 
lar each. 
,  The  house  was  originally  built  by  Lawrence  Washing* 


▲  SUBALTERN^ S  FURLOUGH. 


w 


astle,  I  ^d 
lent;  but  I 
)nance  that 

journey  to 
fton.  The 
minhabited 
lilgrimage, 
I  managed 
ivingatthe 
'pluSf  there 
n  whom  I 
I  my  horse 
ireral  miles, 
lad  taken  a 
forest:  and 
id  twice  as 
;  the  lodge* 

ithod  of  tra- 
which  pass 
:ted  to  land 
were  com- 
proprietor 
ims  to  the 
le  lodge  to 
hway,  and 
'avine,  and 

America, 
)ciation8  of 
lb  in  a  bo- 
pver  allow 
r  Yankee 
brbidding 
nsequence 
from  the 
he  made 
at  a  dol- 

Washing- 


ton,  a  brother  of  the  General's,  and  received  its  name  but 
of  compliment  to  Admiral  Vernon,  in  whose  expedition 
he  haa  served.  He  was  succeeded  by  the  Oeneral,  from 
whom  (having  no  children)  it  descended  to  his  nephew 
Bushrod  Washington,  the  judge,  and  from  him  to  his 
nephew  John  Washington,  who  died  three  days  prior  to 
my  visit ;  in  consequence  of  which,  I  did  not  request  ad- 
mission. I  heard  that  there  was  nothing  interesting  with- 
in the  house,  excepting  a  small  fragment  of  a  jug,  bear- 
ing a  likeness  of  the  Oeneral,  which  is  considered  the 
most  striking  ever  seen;  the  most  singular  part  of  the 
story  being,  that  the  jug  was  made  in  England  by  a  com- 
mon potter  who  had  never  visited  America.  The  house 
is  built  of  wood,  two  stories  in  height,  the  exterior  stuc- 
coed in  imitation  of  stone :  a  portico,  supported  by  square 
wooden  pillars,  extends  the  full  length  of  the  front  to- 
wards the  Potomac,  and  the  roof  is  surmounted  by  a  light 
wooden  tower.  The  situation  is  a  very  pretty  one;  but 
scarcely  any  thing  has  been  done  by  art  to  add  to  the 
natural  beauty.  The  giounds  are  laid  out  in  a  tasteless 
style,  and  kept  in  a  slovenly  manner,  high  coarse  grass 
growing  up  to  the  very  door.  The  Americans  possess 
generally  but  little  taste  for  ornamental  gardening,  or  at 
least  make  no  display  of  it ;  for  I  seldom  saw  a  cottage, 
or  even  a  respectable-looking  mansion,  with  any  thing 
like  a  flower-garden  attached  to  it. 

When  the  judge  possessed  the  property,  it  consisted  of 
more  than  3000  acres  of  land;  but,  the  law  of  primoge- 
niture being  abolished,  it  was  divided  amongst  his  ne- 
phews; so  that  there  are  now  but  1200  with  the  house; 
and  although  the  General  has  been  dead  only  thirty-two 
years,  the  estate  has  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  third 
generation.  The  late  proprietor  has  left  two  sons  and  a 
daughter,  so  that  the  estate  will  be  again  divided,  an^ 
must  eventually  dwindle  into  nothing.  It  is  much  to  be 
regretted  that  the  government  do  not  take  some  steps 
either  to  keep  the  property  entire  in  the  family,  ox  pur- 
chase it  for  the  States  in  general.  Surely  if  any  s^t  in 
America  deser  -38  protection  more  than  another,  it  is  the 
tomb  of  the  father  of  the  country.  Application  was  made 
by  Congress  for  permisiion  to  remove  the  body  on  the 


\ 


100 


A  subaltern's  furlocoh 


centennial  celebration  of  Washington's  birth-day  (22d  of 
February,  1832),  in  order  to  bury  it  with  great  pomp  in 
the  Rotunda  of  the  Capitol;  but  the  late  proprietor 
would  not  accede  to  it,  stating,  as  his  reason,  that  it  had 
been  the  dying  request  of  his  grand-uncle  to  be  buried 
•t  Mount  Vernon. 

A  fine  sloping  bank  descends  from  the  house  nearly  to 
the  Potomac,  when  it  becomes  more  abrupt,  and  is  so 
thickly  covered  with  trees  that  the  river  is  net  visible 
from  the  house.  On  the  brow  of  the  abrupt  part  of  the 
bank  is  the  vault  in  which  the  General  and  other  mem- 
bers of  the  family  were  originally  buried.  The  coffins 
were  removed  a  twelvemonth  since  to  another  vault  two 
or  three  hundred  yards  more  inland.  Both  vaults  are  of 
plain  brick,  and  on  the  original  one  there  was  not  even 
any  inscription,  and  but  a  weak  wooden  door  to  close  the 
entrance.  It  was  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  cluster  of 
oak-trees,  and  several  red  pine  and  cedar  grew  on  the  top 
of  it.  The  present  vault  nas  a  small  tablet  of  stone,  in- 
scribed **  Washington  Family ;"  and  underneath,  "  I  am 
the  Resurrection  and  the  Life,  saith  the  Lord ,  he  that 
believeth  in  me,  though  he  were  dead,  yet  shall  he  live ; 
and  whosoever  liveth  and  believeth  in  me  shall  never 
die."  That  the  nation  have  never  erected  a  monument 
to  the  man  who  was  their  idol  while  living,  and  whose 
memory  is  still  so  revered  amongst  them,  is  ever  a  subject 
of  surprise  and  reproach  among  foreigners.  The  Ameri- 
cans say,  in  their  defence,  that  the  city  of  Washington, 
with  its  public  buildings,  is  alone  a  sufiiciont  monument; 
and  that  the  only  proper  testimonial  of  respect  to  his 
name  is  the  affectionate  remembrance  of  the  people,  It 
must  bo  retnembored,  however,  that  two  days  after  his 
death  Congress  passed  a  resolution,  unanimously,  "that 
a  marble  monument  be  erected  bv  the  United  Statra  at  the 
city  of  Washington^  that  the  family  of  General  Wash- 
ington be  requested  to  permit  hia  body  to  be  deposited 
under  it,  and  that  the  monument  bo  so  designed  as  to 
\  commemorate  the  great  events  of  his  military  and  political 
life;"  to  which  Mrs.  Washington  consented,  saynigthat, 
*' taught  by  the  great  c:  ample  which  I  have  so'long  had 
boCbre  me  never  to  oppose  my  private  wishes  to  the  pub< 


A  SVBALTBRN's  rURLOOOH. 


101 


II 


lay  (23d  of 
at  pomp  in 

proprietor 
that  it  had 

be  buried 

le  nearly  to 

and  is  so 

net  visible 

part  of  the 

)ther  mem- 

^he  coffins 

r  vauh  two 

lults  are  of 

s  not  even 

:o  close  the 

I  cluster  of 

'  on  the  top 

'  stone,  in- 

ith,  "  I  am 

d,  he  that 

ill  he  live ; 

lall  never 

monument 

md  whose 

T  a  subject 

'heAmeri- 

lishingtoii, 

lonument; 

K'ct  to  his 

)cople,    It 

after  his 

sly,  "that 

vtra  at  the 

pal  Wash- 

deposited 

nod  ns  to 

d  political 

y»"g  that, 

long  had 

>  the  pub* 


lie  will,  I  must  eoment  to  the  request  made  by  Congrets.*' 
Judge  Marshall,  in  his  "Life  of  Washington,"  says,  that 
the  Resolution,  although  it  passed  unanimously,  had  ma- 
ny enemies;  that  the  party  which  had  lon^  constituted 
the  opposition  to  his  administration  declared  its  preference 
for  an  equestrian  statue,  which  had  been  voted  by  Con- 
gress at  the  close  of  the  war,  sixteen  years  previous; 
that  the  division  between  a  statue  and  a  monument  was 
so  nearly  equal,  that  the  session  passed  away  without  an 
appropriation  for  either ;  and  that  those  who  possessed 
the  ascendancy  over  the  public  sentiment  employed  their 
influence  to  draw  odium  on  the  men  who  favoured  a  mo- 
nument, and  to  represent  that  measure  as  part  of  a  ge- 
neral system  to  waste  the  public  money. 

When  I  arrived  at  the  cross  roads  on  my  return,  I 
found  a  gentleman  with  his  servant  in  the  very  dilemma 
in  which  I  had  been  situated  in  the  morning.  He  was 
quietly  awaiting  the  arrival  of  some  one  who  could  give 
him  information,  and  asked  me  which  was  the  ruad  to 
Fredricksburg,  about  sixty  miles  distant.  I  advised  him 
to  trust  to  his  horse,  as  the  Knights  errant  of  old  had  done, 
as  I  could  ill  direct  him. 

The  President's  house  at  Washington,  containing  some 
finely  proportioned  rooms,  furnished  in  a  republican  style 
of  plainness.  Is  situated  on  a  slightly  elevated  ground, 
laid  out  in  walks  and  gardens.  The  ouilding  is  of  free- 
stone, painted  white,  for  the  same  reason  as  the  Capitol. 
Although  it  would  be  a  large  house  for  a  private  gentle* 
man,  still  a  more  magnificent  one  might  have  been  erect- 
ed for  the  executive  of  a  mighty  nation.  Many  of  the 
country  residences  of  English  commoners  fur  excel  it  in 
grandeur  of  appearance.  1  passed  several  agreablu  hours 
there  in  company  with  Qenoral  Jackson,  the  President, 
Mr.  Hayne  of  South  Carolina,  who  has  since  so  distin- 
guished himself  as  Governor  of  that  state,  and  some  few 
others  of  the  great  politicians  of  the  day.  The  President 
is  a  tall,  hardy-looking  veteran,  ap))arently  sixty-five 
years  of  ago,  with  a  head  of  strong  bushy  hair.  His 
voice  is  loud,  and,  when  excited,  he  possesses  considera- 
ble fluency  of  speech,  rather  loo  much  interlarded  with 
strong  atsoverations.     The  Tariff  Bill  formed  the  chief 

I* 


1/ 


\ 


102 


▲  subaltern's  furlough 


I 


topic  of  conversation ;  but  he  was  unable  to  cope  with 
the  powerful  eloquence  of  Mr.  Hayne,  his  more  youthful 
antagonist. 

At  a  short  distance  on  either  side  of  the  President's 
house  are  large  buildings  occupied  by  the  State  and  War 
departments.  In  the  former  I  was  gratified  with  a  sight 
of  the  original  copy  of  the  famous  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence,* Some  of  the  signatures,  owing  to  the  process 
of  taking  off  fac-similes,  had  been  so  much  injured  as  to 
be  almost  illegible.  The  document  is  now  carefully  pre- 
served within  a  glass  case,  and  no  one  permitted  to  touch 
it.  Washington's  commission  as  commander  of  the  Ame- 
rican armies,  bearing  date  10th  of  June,  1776,  as  also  the 
various  treaties  made  wih  foreign  powers,  are  shown  with 
'the  greatest  readiness  by  the  gentlemen  who  have  charge 
of  them.     In  one  of  the  rooms  are  the  presents  which 

Eublic  functionaries,  or  officers  of  the  navjr  and  army, 
ave  received  from  foreign  courts,  and  which,  by  law, 
they  are  oompelledHo  deliver  overtothe  American  govern- 
ment, Who  retain  possession  of  them  for  no  earthly  pur- 
pose that  I  could  conceive,  except  impressing  foreigners 
with  the  unfavourable  idea  that  tne  government  was  suspi* 
cious  of  the  integrity  of  its  public  servants,  and  had  so 
mean  an  opinion  of  its  Representatives  as  to  imagine  that 
they  could  be  bribed  by  a  paltry  sword  or  gold  snuff-box ; 
for  there  were  no  more  valuable  presents  amongst  them. 
The  matter  would  appear  in  a  much  better  light  if  the 
government,  following  the  example  of  the  East-India  Com- 
pany, were  to  compel  its  servants  to  return  the  presents 
bestowed  upon  them  to  those  who  presented  them  ;  and 
foreigners  might  then  the  spared  being  imbued  with  what 
are,  probably,  erroneous  impressions. 

Numerous  blue  and  red  painted  canvass  bogs,  about 
the  size  and  shape  of  a  pillow,  suspended  from  the  ceil- 
ing on  one  side  of  the  office  of  the  secretary  of  the  navy, 
with  "Peacock,"  •'Macedonian,"  "Boxer,"  "Frolic," 
and  various  other  such  names  upon  thum,  attracting  my 
attention,  I  had  the  curiosity  to  inquire  what  were  the  con- 
tent! of  luch  a  singular  collection  of  titled  bags,  and  was 

4 

*  Vide  Appendix  I.  .a 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


103 


iope  with 
)  youthful 

'resident's 
I  and  War 
th  a  sight 
1  of  Inde- 
16  process 
ured  as  to 
sfully  pre- 
l  to  touch 
the  Ame- 
is  also  the 
iovm  with 
ve  charge 
nts  which 
nd  army, 
,  by  law, 
m  govern- 
rthly  pur- 
foreigners 
wassuspi- 
id  had  so 
igine  that 
muff-box ; 
gst  them. 
It  if  the 
dia  Gem- 
presents 
lem ;  and 
ivith  what 

gs,  about 
the  ceil- 

the  navy, 
Frolic." 

cting  my 

e  the  con- 
and  was 


informed  that  the  were  the  colours  of  British  vessels  cap*' 
tured  during  the  late  war.  I  shrugged  up  my  shoulders, ' 
and  thought  I  had  penetrated  too  fiir  into  the  $anetum 
sanctorum  of  the  war  department.  There  is  another  very 
interesting  collection  of  strange  names  and  portraits  of 
the  Indian  chiefs,  who  to  the  number  of  100  have  been 
sent  at  various  times  as  delegates  from  the  tribes  in  the 
west.  They  were  painted  by  Mr.  King  of  Washington; 
and  are,  I  was  informed  by  a  competent  judge,  faithful 
likenesses  of  the  red  men  of  the  forest,  who  are  so  rapid- 
ly disappearing  before  the  march  of  civilization  and  en- 
croachment. To  a  foreigner,  they  are  particularly  inter- 
esting, OS  he  may  travel  many  hundred  miles  through 
the  United  States  without  seeing  an  Indian ;  or  the  few 
he  may  perchance  see,  dwelling  within  the  boundaries  of 
civilization,  are  a  degenerate,  dissipated  race,  and  held  in 
contempt  by  such  warriors  as  the  "Stabber,"  "the  Spar- 
row that  hunts  as  he  walks,"  "  the  Spoon,"  "  Sleepy  eye," 
"the  Bear  whose  screams  make  the  rocks  tremble," 
"Bufllalo,"  and  various  others,  as  represented  on  eonvass 
in  the  Indian  Department,  The  great  attention  paid  to  a 
traveller,  and  the  readiness  with  which  he  is  shown  every 
thing  worthy  of  notice  in  these  departments,  and,  in  fact, 
I  may  say  every  where  else  in  the  States,  is  truly  gratify- 
ing; particularly  as  it  arises  from  a  spirit  of  courtesy,  no 
tax,  as  is  too  frequently  the  case  in  England,  being  levied 
upon  the  purse. 

The  arsenal,  upon  the  tongue  of  the  peninsula,  is  now 
but  a  more  depdt  for  ordinance  stores,  the  works  having 
been  levelled  smce  the  war,  when  their  inutility  was  so 
fully  proved  by  the  British  landing  from  the  Patapsco, 
marching  upon  and  taking  Wusliington  from  the  rear ; 
the  American  troops  being  conipuUed  to  abandon  the 
works  which  had  been  thrown  up  to  dispute  the  passage 
of  the  Potomac  alone.  It  was  in  disabling  the  guns  on 
the  rammrts  that  (Captain  Frazerand  many  moro  of  the 
British  ibrce  were  blown  up,  from  a  piece  of  wadding 
nccidentnlly  falling  into  a  dry  well,  in  which  the  Ameri- 
cans  had  placed  the  contents  of  their  magazine,  trusting 
that  it  would  escape  the  observation  of  the  invaders  The 
officer  in  charge  kindly  accompanied  me  through  the  va- 


fl 


V 


104 


A  SUBALTERN  8  FVRLOUOH. 


rious  Store-rooms  and  armouries.  They  contain  models 
of  the  French  and  English  field-pieces,  with  tumbrils,  &c., 
complete — the  English  being  made  by  request  at  Wool- 
wich; but  the  French  system  had  been  approved  of,  and 
will  be  adopted  in  the  American  service,  on  account  of 
the  uniform  size  of  the  ammunition-wagons,  and  a  triflinc 
difference  in  some  other  respect.  The  American  fiela- 
pieces  are  of  cast-iron,  the  smallest  calibre  being  eight 
pounds.  The  few  specimens  I  saw  of  brass  were  very 
faulty,  and  honeycombed  in  the  casting;  the  metal  also  is 
too  expensive,  being  from  20  to  26  cents  {lOd.  to  1«.)  per 
pound.  Many  of  the  iron  guns  were  also  defective. 
Thirty^wo  42-pounders  had  arrived  two  days  previously 
from  the  foundry  at  Georgetown,  and  many  were  very 
roughly  and  imperfectly  cast :  the  weight  of  each  was 
8694  pounds,  and  the  cost  about  6  cents,  or  9id.  per 
pound,  which  makes  the  price  of  a  single  gun  431  dollars, 
or  00/.  sterling.  They  were  intended  for  the  fortresses, 
which  are  erecting  at  the  mouths  of  all  the  harbours,  along 
the  extensive  line  of  coast  of  the  United  States.  As  an 
inland  war  can  scarcely  ever  be  expected,  the  expenditure 
upon  military  works  is  along  the  sea-board,  for  which 
purpose  large  grants  of  money  are  made  every  session  of 
Congress ;  but,  with  only  the  present  foundries  at  work, 
many  years  will  elapse  before  a  sufficient  supply  of  heavy 
artillery  can  be  provided  for  those  fortresses  already 
finishoQ.  In  the  armoury  there  were  40,000  stand  of  arms; 
the  muskets  averaging  the  great  price  of  13  dollars  (BO 
shillings)  each,  and  the  rifies  much  more.  The  latter 
were  upon  a  principle  I  had  never  before  seen  j  diflfering 
considerably  in  their  construction  from  the  English,  which 
I  thought  they  excelled ;  the  soldier  being  capable  of  fir- 
ing five  or  six  times  per  minute  with  them.  The  use  of 
a  ramrod,  except  for  cleaning,  is  entirely  dispensed  with, 
the  barrel  of  the  rifle  having  a  patont  breech,  or  receiver, 
about  six  inches  in  length,  which,  by  touching  a  smstl 
trigger  under  the  stock,  is  opened  at  its  upper  end  j  and 
the  iKHSossnry  load  being  placed  within  the  bore,  it  is  im- 
mediately closed  a(^ain  by  a  slight  nressure  of  the  hand. 
In  other  respects,  it  is  similar  to  the  common  English 
rifle,  excepting  that  the  barrel  is  full  as  long  a3  that  of  a 


lin  models 
ibrils,  &c., 
at  Wool- 
^ed  of,  and 
iccount  of 
latriflinc 
ican  field- 
sing  eight 
«vere  very 
stal  also  is 
to  1«.)  per 
defective, 
ireviously 
vere  very 
each  was 
r  2{d.  per 
31  dollars, 
fortresses, 
urs,  along 
I.    As  an 
cpenditure 
for  which 
session  of 
I  at  work, 
|r  of  heavy 
s  already 
id  of  arms; 
oUars  (60 
The  latter 
diflferinff 
sh,  which 
}le  of  fir- 
he  use  of 
sed  with, 
receiver, 
a  small 
ndj  and 
it  18  im< 
he  hand. 
English 
that  of  a 


A  SrBALTERN's  FtTRLOtTOH 


1^ 


musket.  The  American  light  troops  cary  powder  and' 
ball  flasks  suspended  across  their  shoulders  m  place  of  a 
cartridge-box,  and  the  process  of  going  twice  through  the 
motions  of  loading  must  retard  the  firing.  White  were 
about  to  give  way  to  black  leather  belts,  which  were  to 
be  worn  by  all  descriptions  of  infantry.  The  artificers 
employed  in  the  department  were  principally  citizens  en- 
gaged for  a  limited  period ;  and  though  Congress  had 
lately  passed  a  bill  for  forming  an  entirely  military  esta- 
blishment, great  difficulty  was  experienced  in  finding  men 
who  would  enlist,  when  they  could  obtain  equally  high 
wages  by  daily  labour  elsewhere. 

The  navy  yard,  half  a  mile  from  the  arsenal,  is  upon 
the  eastern  branch  of  the  Potomac,  and  on  a  larger  scale 
than  that  at  Philadelphia.  It  contains  various  sheds  and 
storehouses,  foundry,  saw-mill,  and  two'  large  sheds  for  • 
ship-building,  under  one  of  which  a  vessel  of  48  or  60 
guns  was  in  an  unfinished  state.  The  channel,  as  in 
the  Delaware,  becomes  shallower  yearly  by  the  increase 
of  mud ;  nor  is  there  now  sufiicient  depth  of  water  for 
the  launching  of  any  such  vessel  as  the  Columbus,  of  74 
guns,  which  was  buih  in  this  yard  a  few  years  since.  I 
saw  a  schooner  at  anchot  off  the  pier,  constructed  upon 
a  principle  which  has,  I  believe,  been  tried,  and  failed  in 
England :  namely,  without  knees,  and  entirely  of  thick 
planks  laid  in  tiers  over  one  another,  each  successive  tier* 
being  placed  at  a  different  angle  from  the  preceding  one, 
so  as  to  strengthen  each  other.  This  vessel  was  called  the 
"  Experiment,  but  had  failed  in  realizing  the  expecta- 
tions of  the  builders :  it  carried  12  guns,  and  haa  just 
arrived  from  Norfolk  nuvy  yard,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Chesapeake;  some  knees  were  subsequently  added,  but 
the  naval  officers  entirely  disapproved  of  the  whole  con- 
struction. 

Georgetown,  higher  up  on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac, 
and  only  divided  from  Washington  by  the  inconsiderable 
stream  of  Rock  Creek,  was  formerly  a  place  of  some  im- 
portance, but  of  late  years  has  felt  the  effects  of  Baltimore 
on  its  commerce,  which  has  now  dwindled  into  insigni- 
ficance. On  the  margin  of  the  river,  scarcely  anything 
is  to  be  seen  but  long  rows  of  desolate  dwellings  and 


\ 


\ 
106 


▲  SUBALTERN'S  FURLOTTOH. 


empty  warehouses,  r-ith  their  window  shutters  moaning 
in  tne  wind,  as  if  over  the  fiillen  prosperity  of  the  town. 
It  contains  a  population  of  little  less  than  10,000,  and  is 
prettily  situated  on  a  series  of  heights,  at  a  fine  bend  of 
the  river.  Its  interior  streets  are  well  laid  out,  and  con- 
tain some  very  good  private  residences.  The  College, 
whose  members  generally  profess  the  Catholic  religion, 
is  in  ancient  pile  of  building,  with  a  large  library,  and 
some  good  pamtings.  The  students  were  '^haunting  ves- 
pers, with  rather  a  sweet-toned  organ,  as  I  entered  the 
chancel.  Within  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  there  is  a 
lar^e  academy  for  young  ladies,  attached  to  a  convent, 
which  however  my  unhallowed  foot  was  not  permitted 
to  profane.  The  school  bears  a  very  high  character,  up- 
wards of  200  girls  attending  daily,  many  of  whom  are 
taught  gratuitously.  There  are  also  nearly  100  board- 
ers of  the  most  respectable  families  in  the  neighbourhood, 
for  whom  there  is  a  regular  charge. 

I  proceeded  seveml  miles  up  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio 
Canal  (which  enters  the  Potomac  here  by  four  locks  from 
the  rising  ground,)  on  the  23d  of  June,  in  one  of  the 
packet-boats,  which  ply  daily  upon  it,  and  found  the 
travelling  most  delightful :  I  was  the  only  passenger,  and 
there  was  a  neat,  well-furnished  cabin  about  60  reet  long 
by  14  broad.  We  were  drawn  by  three  horses  at  the  rate 
of  five  miles  an  hour,  a  huge  negro  riding  on  the  last,  and 
driving  the  other  horses  before  him  with  a  long  whip, 
which  he  flourished  and  cracked  most  adroitly.  The  boats 
calculated  for  carrying  merchandize  are  near  100  tons 
burthen,  and  will  carry  between  900  and  1000  barrels 
of  flour,  the  freight  being  at  two  cents  per  ton  per  mile. 
The  canal  is  six  feet  deep,  and  sixty  wide  at  the  summit. 
It  was  commenced  on  the  4th  of  July,  1838,  with  the  in- 
tention of  connecting  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  and  Chesa- 
peake rivers,  by  uniting  with  the  Pennsylvania  and  Ohio 
Canal,  near  Pittsburgh,  in  the  former  State;  when  its  en- 
tire length  will  bo  301  miles,  having  a  lockage  of  more 
than  4U00  feet.  The  government  subscribed  900,000  dol- 
lars towards  its  const  ruction — a  mere  trifle  to  the  estimat- 
ed expense  of  VZ  millions;  and,  as  far  as  I  could  under- 
stand the  merits  of  the  case,  it  appeared  the  work  could  not 


I  moaningf 
the  town. 
lOO,  and  is 
e  bend  of 
t,  and  con- 
3  College, 
E  religion, 
>rary,  and 
mting  ves- 
mtered  the 
there  is  a 
a  convent, 
permitted 
iracter,  up- 
whom  are 
100  board- 
ibourhood, 

B  and  Ohio 
locks  from 
one  of  the 
found  the 
longer,  and 

feet  long 

at  the  rate 

e  last,  and 

iong  whip, 

The  boats 

100  tons 
barrels 

per  mile. 
,e  summit. 
lith  the  in* 
Ind  Ghesa- 

and  Ohio 
len  its  en- 

of  more 

),000dol- 
ie  estimat- 
lid  under- 

could  not 


1  svbaltkrn's  furlough 


m 


proceed  much  longer  unless  an  additional  grant  was  made, 
to  which  the  policy  of  the  present  ministry  is  opposed ; 
contending,  as  they  do,  that  each  State  should  manage  iut 
internal  improvements  without  making  any  demand  upon 
the  funds  of  the  general  government.    About  twenty-six 
miles  of  the  line  were  finished  at  this  time;  but  unless  the 
prospect  brightens,  it  is  supposed  that  half  a  century  will 
elapse  before  any  dividend  can  be  paid,  the  expenses  at 
present  being  from  6  to  7000,  and  the  receipts  not  ex- 
ceeding 87,<)00  dollars  per  annum;  an  insufficient  sum 
to  pay  the  interest  of  the  expended  capital.    The  traffics 
win  of  course  increase  as  the  line  of  canal  becomes  opened 
in  the  interior  of  the  country;  but  at  this  time  there  were 
no  signs  of  prosi)erty .     In  a  distance  of  thirteen  miles  we 
did  not  meet  a  single  boat.    The  canal  runs  parallel  with 
the  river,  varying  from  ten  to  fifty  feet  above  its  level; 
and,  in  some  places,  has  encroached  upon  it,  by  strong 
embankments  being  thrown  up  where  the  ground  was 
too  rocky  and  high  to  admit  of  easy  excavation.     In 
other  places  advantage  has  been  taken  of  the  course  of 
ravines,  in  which  the  tops  of  submersed  trees  just  make 
their  apMarance  above  the  surface  of  the  water.     The 
contrast  oetween  the  works  of  art  nnd  nature  is  exceed- 
inffly  fine.  The  canal  flows  smoothly  and  placidly  along, 
with  not  a  ripple  upon  its  bosom ;  while  the  broad   Po- 
tomac, separated  only  by  a  narrow  pier,  is  seen  fiir  be- 
neath, rushing  fiercely  in  a  wild  and  tumultuous  roar 
over  a  rough  bed  of  rocks,  and  whirling  along  large 
trunks  of  trees  with  tremendous  violence. 

The  musk-rats  occasion  a  deal  of  mischief  by  boring 
holes  from  the  river ;  and  these,  if  neglected,  soon  become 
serious  breaches  in  the  embankments.  The  engineers  had 
Allien  into  a  trifling  error  in  forming  the  slopmg  sides  of 
the  canal  of  earth ;  so  that  the  rapid  motion  of  the  boats 
had  occasioned  the  water  to  undermine  the  towing-path. 
The  river  was  formerly  rendered  navigable,  by  short  ca- 
nals beingformed  round  the  rapids  by  means  oflocks;  but 
such  a  mode  of  conveying  produce  was  subject  to  many 
inconveniences  and  delays ;  the  draught  of  wator  in  other 
parts,  durinff  hot  summers,  being  frequently  insnfricient 
for  heayily  laden  vessels ;  and,  in  heavy  fresh<  tn,  boats 


106 


A  BVSALTSRN's  rVRLOUOH. 


were  endangered  by  floating  masses  of  timber  or  sunken 
rocks.  The  proposition  of  rendering  the  Potomac  naviga* 
ble,  originated  from  Washin^on  himself,  who  saw  the  vast 
advantages  the  State  would  derive  from  it ;  and,  from 
continuing  a  canal  to  the  Ohio,  that  it  woula  divert  the 

Eroduce  of  the  west,  which  at  present  floats  so  many 
undred  miles  down  the  Mississippi  to  New-Orleans,  into 
the  Atlantic  States.  When  once  carried  into  efiect,  it  will 
no  doubt  produce  a  reaction  of  trade  in  fiivour  of  George- 
town and  Alexandria ;  by  which  they  will  become  two  of 
the  greatest '  ports  for  the  exportation  of  flour  in  the 
Union.  The  course  of  the  canal  is  through  a  pretty  and 
romantic  country,  the  banks  of  the  river  bein?  bold  and 
well  wooded.  We  arrived  at  the  Great  Falls,  sixteen 
miles  from  Washington,  in  less  than  four  hours,  having 
passed  through  twenty  locks,  the  average  passage  of  each 
beinff  two  minutes  and  a  small  fraction. 

I  had  heard  the  distant  roaring  of  the  mighty  waterfall 
for  son^e  minutes  before  the  boat  stopped ;  and,  as  soon 
as  it  received  a  temporary  check  at  a  lock,  I  sprang  ashore 
sketch-book  in  hand,  a  young  lad,  belonging  to  the  packet, 
crying  out,  "  Shall  I  show  you  the  way,  sir  ?  I  always  go 
with  gentlemen,  sir;"  at  the  same  time  running  to  accom- 
pany me.  '•  Get  away  with  you,"  said  I,  half  angry  at 
the  intrusion,  and  alarmed  at  the  very  idea  of  my  nrst 
view  of  the  cataract  being  destroyed  by  a  young  urchin 
interrupting  my  reveries  and  feelings  of  ecstatic  delight, 
with  such  sentences  as,  "  There's  more  water  comes  over 
in  a  freshet,  sir  I" — '*  The  Vir^finia  side  is  the  best  one  to 
see  it  from,  sir."  The  little  fellow  was,  however,  I  be- 
lieve, half  frightened,  for  he  shrunk  back  at  my  blunt  refu- 
sal of  his  company,  and  I  saw  no  more  of  him  at  that  time. 
Throwing  myself  down  the  steep  embankment  of  the 
canal,  I  floundered  on  through  pools  of  water,  tumbled 
over  lumps  of  rock,  regardless  of  rattle-snakes  and  other 
reptiles,  scratched  my  hands  and  face,  tore  my  coat 
amongst  the  bushes,  and,  hurrying  under  an  alpine  bridge 
thrown  across  a  ravine  from  one  projecting  rock  to  an- 
other, without  scarcely  deigning  a  passing  glance  at  it,  or 
any  thing  else,  I  rounded  a  point,  and  came  in  full  view 
of  the  great  and  grand  object  which  alone  occupied  my 


or  sunken 
tacnaviga* 
iw  the  vast 
and,  from 
divert  the 
so  many 
rleans,  into 
feet,  it  will 
3f  George- 
ome  two  of 
lur  in  the 
pretty  and 
y  bold  and 
lis,  sixteen 
irs,  having 
ige  of  each 

y  waterfall 

id,  as  soon 

ang  ashore 

the  packet, 

I  always  go 

ptoaccom- 

f  angry  at 

»f  my  first 

ing  urchin 

ic  delight, 

omes  over 

best  one  to 

ever,  I  be- 

blunt  refu- 

that  time. 

9nt  of  the 

',  tumbled 

and  other 

my  coat 

ineoridgo 

Qck  to  an- 

ce  at  it,  or 

full  view 

upied  my 


A  SV&ALTSRN's  yORIOUOH. 


109 


thougnts.  From  the  feelings  J  experienced  at  that  mo- 
ment, I  could  imagine  the  sensations  of  awe  and  delight 
with  which  the  weary  pilgrims  first  gain  sight  of  the  lofty 
mmarets  and  domes  of  the  prophet  s  tomb  at  the  holy 
city  of  Arabia.  In  a  moment  the  troubles  of  the  past  and 
care  for  the  future  are  alike  forgotten ;  the  perils  and  pri- 
vations undergone  in  their  long  and  arduous  marches  over 
the  burning  deserts  are  at  last  fully  compensated.  But 
once  in  my  previous  life  do  I  remember  experiencing  such 
pleasurable  emotions — when,  after  an  absence  of  some 
years  in  a  foreign  land,  the  dim  blue  line  of  my  native 
country  appeared  rising  from  the  main.  I  raised  my 
hands,  and  uttering  some  exclamation,  stood  gazing  in 
silent  and  indescribable  astonishment  for  some  minutes. 
I  found  that  subsequently  I  viewed  Niagara  with  less 
inward  feelings  of  awe  and  delight.  The  rush  of  water 
was  greater,  and  every  thing  was  upon  a  more  sublimely 
magnificent  scale  ;  but  the  Potomac  had  partly  prepared 
me,  and  I  had  already  formed  some  indistinct  idea  in  my 
imagination  of  what  I  should  see :  but  of  this  I  had  not 
the  slightest  conception. 

I  am  but  ill  at  describing  scenery,  and  may,  therefore, 
be  excused  for  merely  taking  notice  in  simple  terms,  of 
what  the  Americans  would  designate  as  the  "  location  of 
the  Falls."  The  river  gradually  contracts  to  a  width 
of  700  or  800  feet  for  some  distance  above  the  rocky  bed 
of  the  Rapids,  over  which  it  foams  and  roars  most  terri- 
fically; until,  gaining  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  it  shoots 
over  in  a  white  sheet  into  a  troubled  abyss  beneath  ;  and 
rushingfuriously  along  between  two  narrow  perpend'^ular 
walls  of  rock  for  the  distance  of  a  mile,  a^ain  expand!)  into 
a  broad  but  rapid  channel.  The  country  m  the  nnmediate 
vicinity  bears  the  appearance  of  having  been  once  con- 
vulsed by  volcanic  eruption;  as  if  the  huge  rocks  had 
been  thrown  upon  one  another  by  gigantic  eflbrts  of 
nature ;  every  thing  seems  to  have  been  subjected  to  some 
almighty  agency.  It  was  now  the  middle  of  summer,  at 
which  time,  I  believe,  the  Falls  are  seen  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage, the  water  being  purer  and  the  rocks  in  the  river 
not  entirely  concealed  from  the  view.  During  the  autum- 
nal floods,  or  the  melting  of  the  winter's  snow,  when  tho 

VOL.  1. — K. 


M 


lid 


A   SUBALTSRM  S  FtTRLOUGH. 


waters  rush  in  one  vast  sheet  of  foam  over  the  whole 
breadth  of  the  chasm,  they  may  present  a  more  terrific- 
ally grand  and  fearful  aspect,  and  be  more  calculated  to 
inspire  awe ;  but  certainly  not  so  beautifully  picturesque 
as  durinff  the  summer's  sunshine^  when  nature  appears  in 
her  milctest  and  serenes!  form,  and  the  prismatic  hues  of 
the  rainbow  are  seen  glistening  in  the  white  mist  which 
rises  from  the  pure  and  limpid  stream,  as  it  glides  over 
the  rocky  shelves.  After  passing  two  hours  in  admira- 
tion, I  returned  to  the  packet,  and,  as  the  sun  set^  arrived 
at  my  quarters  in  the  Pennsylvania  Avenue. 


>v^i 


\i 


fi'-. 


r'S^/l  <   -.''i- 


.;;i 


■Ji-    '•  <>     >.    "?■,[  .    i;  :,.:     I  ,     ■", 


r  the  whole 
lore  terrific* 
alculated  to 
picturesque 
e  appears  in 
fltic  hues  of 
mist  which 
glides  over 
)  in  admira- 
tset^  arrived 


A,  bvbaltbrn's  furlouok. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Ill 


td  Carrier,— I  think  this  be  the  most  villainous  house  in  all  Lon- 
don  road  for  fleas ;  I  am  stune  like  a  tench. 

Ut  Car. — Like  a  tench  7  by  the  mass,  there's'  ne'er  a  kins  in 
Christendom  could  be  better  bit  than  Ihave  been  since  the  first  cock — 

Sbakspbare. 

Through  roads  abrupt,  and  rude  unfashionM  tracts. 

Blackmore. 

On  the  36th  of  June  I  again  crossed  the  Potomac  to 
Alexandria,  and  travelling  in  the  mail  over  a  heavy,  sandvi 
and  hilly  country,  until  near  sunset,  entered  the  pretty  little 
village  of  Aldie,  situated  amongst  the  hills.  We  were  now 
in  Loudoun  county,  and  at  the  same  time  observed  an  im> 
provement  in  the  soil :  the  crops  were  heavier,  and  the 
ragged  worm  fences  gave  way  to  suhstaniial  stone ;  but 
as  yet  i  saw  nothing  like  gooa  farming,  or  any  buildings 
equal  to  those  in  England.     In  addition  to  the  little  dis- 
appointments I  experienced  from  this  appearance  of  the 
country,  I  had  the  misfortune  to  be  troubled  with  a  gar- 
rulous, fat  old  German,  who  had  been  in  the  States  above 
half  a  century,  and  bored  me  with  long  prosing  histories 
of  the  battles  of  Brandy  wine  and  Yorktown,  interspersed 
with  anecdotes  of  his  commander,  Lafayette.     He  was 
now  seventy-eight  years  of  age,  and  boasted  much  of  his 
bodily  strength :  to  prove  that  of  his  lungs,  he  produced 
a  bugle-horn  from  its  leather  case,  and  blew  a  blast  both 
loud  and  strong,  which  I  was  so  inconsiderate  as  to  ap- 
prove of   The  old  gentleman's  vanity  being  flattered,  he 
insisted  upon  treating  me  at  the  first  tavern,  where  the 
coach  stopped  to  change  horses,  with  a  draught  of  mo- 
lasses beer;  and  when  We  had  resumed  our  seats,  favoured 
me  at  intervals  with  a  repetition  of  the  music.     All  my 
hints  respecting  soreness  of  lips,  injury  to  lungs,  head- 
aches, &,c,.,  were  not  only  entirely  thrown  away,  but  made 
the  matter  so  much  worse,  that  1  was  fain  to  put  up  with 
the  annoyance  until  our  arrival  at  the  small  town  of  Mid- 
dleburgh,  when  I  was  happily  relieved  from  him.  It  was 
late  iQ  the  evening  before  we  reached  our  journey's  end ; 


11 


\ 


112 


A  SUBALTERN  S   FI7RLOUOH, 


80,  soon  after  supper,  requesting  to  be  shown  to  my  room, 
I  was,  to  my  infinite  surprise,  ushered  into  one  containing 
four  beds,  three  of  which  were  already  occupied.  Being 
heartily  fatigued,  what  from  the  abominable  road,  and  the 
old  man  with  his  bugle-horn — and  as  the  coach  was  to 
start  again  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning — 1  was  the  less 
inclined  to  be  very  particular ;  so,  as  a  sailor  would  say, 
"turned  in,"  though  not  without  shrewd  suspicions  that 
I  should  not  be  the  sole  occupant,  having,  as  I  was  recon- 
noitring, caught  a  glimpse  of  an  enemy  retiring  under 
cover  of  the  pillow.  Never  was  poor  mortal  so  tormented  I 
I  was  fairly  driven  from  my  post,  and  walked  down  stairs 
before  three  o'clock,  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  coach, 
muttering  a  requiescat  in  pace  as  I  passed  the  restless 
bodies  of  my  companions  in  misery.  The  dirty  inn  at 
Middleburgh  will  certainly  not  soon  be  erased  from  my 
memory. 

From  Woodvlllea  few  miles  fnrther.  where  there  was 
the  only  vineyard  I  ever  saw  in  the  country,  to  the  Blue 
Ridge  the  scenery  was  delightful.  We  met  many  Dutch 
farmers  with  their  heavily-laden  flour  wagons,  and  saw 
groups  of  others  cooking  their  victuals  under  the  trees 
by  the  road  side,  all  appearing  the  happiest  and  most  con- 
tented beings  imaginable.  Leaving  their  farms  upon  the 
banks  of  the  Shenando,  which  waters  part  of  the  valley  of 
Virginia,  they  proceed  with  their  load  of  flour  for  the  Alex- 
andrian market,  and,  carrying  their  hatchets  and  provi- 
sions, pass  the  night  in  their  wagons.  Thus  avoiding  all 
expens^^s,  excepting  the  half  dollar  for  tolls,  they  dispose 
of  their  load,  and  with  clear  profits  forthwith  return  home. 
Having  breakfasted  at  the  inconsiderable  village  of  Paris, 
we  commenced  the  ascent  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  which  is 
easy,  and  not  exceeding  a  mile.  I  had  accustomed  my- 
self some  little  to  the  jolting  of  the  vehicle,  and  had, 
therefore,  taken  my  seat  outside  by  the  coachman,  that 
I  might  enjoy  the  prospect  to  greater  advantage.  While 
praising  the  appearance  of  the  cultivated  and  highly  fer- 
tile vale  lying  between  the  Ridge  and  the  North  moun- 
tains to  him,  he  remarked  that,  "  for  his  part,  he  preferred 
the  hills,  and  should  like  to  live  upon  them  for  some  time; 
for  he  was  fond  of  hunting,  and  intended  quitting  his 


A  SVBAITBRN'S  PVRLOVOH. 


>  my  room, 
containing 
ed.  Being 
id,  and  the 
ich  was  to 
as  the  less 
vould  say, 
icions  that 
Yas  recon- 
ing  under 
jrmented ! 
5wn  stairs 
he  coach, 
e  restless 
•ty  inn  at 
from  my 

there  was 
the  Blue 
ny  Dutch 
and  saw 
the  trees 
most  con- 
upon  the 
valley  of 
theAlex- 
id  provi- 
idingall 
'  dispose 
rn  home. 
)f  Paris, 
vhich  is 
fled  my- 
nd  had, 
m,  that 

While 
hly  fer- 

moun- 
eferred 
18  time; 
ing  his 


present  work,  so  that  he  might  get  some  hounds,  widi  a 
good  horse,  and  have  some  sport;  there  was  also  plenty 
of  gunning  on  the  mountains'  side." 

This  low  chain  of  hills,  which  in  England  would  be 
considered  diminutive,  has  acquired  its  name  of  the  Blue 
Ridge,  from  presenting  a  deeper  shade  of  that  colour  than 
hills  do  in  general ;  but,  when  travelling  across  them  in 
summer,  one  would  be  led  to  imagine  it  arose  from  the 
vast  quantity  of  blue  thistle  which  flourishes  upon  them  in 
a  most  extraordinary  manner ;  patches  of  many  acres  in 
extent  were  so  densely  covered  with  the  light  blue  flower, 
that  the  verdure  was  quite  imperceptible.  But  when  I 
pointed  it  out  to  the  sporting  coachman  as  a  strong 
symptom  of  slovenly  farming,  he  endeavoured  to  con- 
vince me  that  a  new  era  in^  husbandry  had  commenced ; 
it  having  been  most  satisfactorily  ascertained  that  the 
thistle,  so  far  from  impoverishing,  as  was  generally  sup- 
posed, improved  the  soil. 

A  few  miles  after  our  descent,  we  arrived  at  the  ferries 
across  the  Shenando ;  but  the  water  being  low,  forded  the 
stream,  where  it  was  about  three  feet  deep,  and  a  hundred 
yards  wide,  into  Frederic  County.  The  villages  scattered 
along  the  banks  are  far  from  healthy,  owing  to  the  heavy 
rains  swelling  the  river,  and  leaving  vegetable  matter  to 
decompose  upon  the  ground  when  the  water  recedes  to 
its  summer  channel :  the  inhabitants  at  this  time  were 
suffering  much  from  the  scarlet  and  bilious  fevers;  the 
former  had  carried  off*  thirteen  slaves  from  one  gentle- 
man's estate  in  the  course  of  a  few  weeks.  This,  which  is 
however  considered  the  richest  tract  of  land  in  the  vale, 
is  in  the  hands  of  great  landed  proprietors:  the  extent 
of  the  fields  varies  generally  from  twenty  to  thirty  acres, 
and  produces  fine  crops  of  every  description  of  grain ;  the 
term  "corn"  is  applied  to  Indian  corn  only.  Until  aware 
of  this  distinction,  I  had  been  guilty  of  some  slight  mis- 
takes in  stating,  to  farmers'  inquiries,  that  corn  grew  in 
England,  and  was  commonly  in  use.  Ten  miles  far'her 
brought  us  to  the  town  of  Winchester,  containing  ahout 
2500  inhabitants,  and  distant  seventy-five  miles  from 
Washington.  Its  dirty  streets,  with  steppingstores  for 
foot-passengers  at  the  crossings,  presented  no  inducement 


K' 


■V  v  ^ 


#'•• 


114 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


to  remain  a  night ;  but  the  coach  proceeding  no  farther 
upon  my  route,  I  was  compelled  to  wait  till  late  the  fol- 
lowing day,  when  I  again  started,  and  at  the  small  town 
of  Smithfield,  where  the  coach  stopped  to  change  horses, 
met  two  gentlemen  who  had  just  been  overturned  in 
their  carriage  :  and,  after  rolling  down  a  precipice,  had 
most  miraculously  escaped  with  their  lives.  They  com- 
plained bitterly  of  the  exorbitant  demand  of  five  dollars 
made  by  a  wagoner  for  carrying  the  remains  of  their 
carriage  fifteen  miles.  Truly,  it  was  no  wonder  that  it 
was  shattered  to  piccrs;  for  the  mail,  in  which  I  travelled, 
couJd  not  exceed  a  foot's  pace  over  the  limestone  ridges, 
projecting  two  feetalove  the  level  of  the  road;  and  some 
of  the  hills  were  so  steep,  that  it  was  a  matter  of  great 
thankfulness  we  snfely  gained  the  summit  of  them,  or 
that  the  heavy  vehicle  in  the  descent  did  not  crush  down 
the  horses.  1  should  much  have  enjoyed  the  society  of 
a  gentleman  with  whom  I  travelled  on  the  (hesaptake 
and  Dolaworo  railway,  who  said,  tliot  "  he  did  not  nt  ail 
approve  of  so  easy  a  mode  of  conveyance — for  he  re- 
quired exercise."  He  would  certainly  nave  met  it  here  to 
his  heart's  content.  After  eight  hours'  hard  jolting,  we 
gained  the  lulls  above  Harper's  Ferry,  thirty  miles  from 
Winchester:  the  road  had  for  f^ome  time  continued  on 
their  summit;  niul  as  we  reiichtd  the  brow,  previous  to 
descending,  the  lust  gleum  of  day  wos  ju,^t  jiilding  the 
woody  tops  ( f  the  opposite  mountains,  'I'he  town,  ns  it 
lay  far  beneath,  could  be  but  indistinctly  }«een  in  the  shade 
cast  over  it  by  the  towering  masses  of  rock  with  w  hich  it 
\i  IS  encircled  ;  but  which  rendered  more  vivid  the  bright 
flashes  of  a  rapid  succession  of  tremendous  miarrv  hliists, 
as  tfie  echo  was  reveiberiiled  among.st  ilie  lulls  and 
rocks,  like  the  great  artillery  of  heaven.  The  white  lines 
of  the  two  impetuous  streoms.  the  Potomac  otid  Slunando. 
rushing  together  from  nearly  opposite  directions,  like 
mighty  giants  struggling  for  mastery,  unite  into  one 
channel  in  front  of  the  town,  and  thus  force  their  passage 
througli  on  opening  in  the  hills,  A  band  of  music  was 
playing  upon  (!^amp  Hill  at  the  entrance  of  the  town, 
where  the  tents  of  an  itinerant  circus  wore  pitched  ;  and 
tho  bolls  beneath  us  giving  notice  to  the  workmen  that 


A  subaltern's  furlough 


116 


Ef  no  farther 
late  the  fol- 
small  town 
inge  horses, 
ertiirned  in 
ecinice,  had 
Tney  corn- 
five  dollars 
ins  of  their 
nder  that  it 
I  travelled, 
one  ridges, 
I ;  nnd  some 
ter  of  great 
)f  them,  or 
nush  down 
e  society  of 
hesnptnko 
d  not  nt  all 
-for  he  re- 
let it  here  to 
jolting,  we 
miles  from 
nt  in  lied  on 
previous  to 
uildiiig  the 
tow  n,  ns  it 
I  tlie  sluule 
h  wiiioh  it 
the  hright 

y  lihists, 

hills  nnd 

^vhit(^  linen 

Shcnnndo, 

lions,  like 

into  one 
ir  passoge 
nusic  was 
llir  town, 
hrd ;  nnd 
unen  that 


II 


the  labours  of  the  day  had  ceased  altogether,  rendered 
the  scene  impressively  striking. 

Having  been  furnished  at  Washington  with  introduc- 
tory letters  to  G.  Rust,  Esq,,  in  charge  of  the  government 
establishment  for  the  manufactory  of  arms,  he  kindly  ac- 
companied me  through  the  numerous  shops  and  forges, 
which  give  employment  to  more  than  300  men,  though 
^the  greater  part  of  the  work  is  performed  by  machinery. 
The  different  processes  of  turning  the  gun-stock  from 
the  rough  wood,  were  performed  in  less  than  five  minutes, 
and  those  of  fitting  the  lock  and  barrel  upon  it  occupied 
but  two  more.  The  trst  for  the  bayonet  appeared  un- 
necessarily severe,  and  so  many  failing  in  it,  the  price  of 
the  musket  is  rendered  much  greater,  than  if  one,  which 
might  be  sufiicientlv  satisfactory,  was  substituted;  it  con- 
sisted in  iix'wr  the  bayonet  on  the  muzzle,  with  a  twelve- 
pound  brass  ball  attached  to  the  breech  of  a  gun-barrel, 
tln'u  placing  the  bayonet  horizontally  in  two  holes  just 
fitting  it,  nnd  nearly  its  length  apart,  where  it  was  left  for 
about  two  minutes,  the  entire  weight  acting  upon  the 
bayonet,  which,  if  unhent  by  thistrinl,  was  turnco  round 
and  nut  to  the  same  test  wmn  the  other  sidts.  The 
barrels  were  well  finished,  nnd  mnde  of  iron  from  the  State 
of  Connecticut,  a  distance  of  25(1  miles;  but  the  brass 
bands,  which  fastened  the  barrel  to  the  stock,  gave  the 
musket  a  heavy  clumsy  appearance.  Not  only  was  the 
barrel  and  other  ironwork  bronzed,  but  even  the  bnyonet 
also.  In  the  arsenal,  under  the  charge  of  an  old  English 
.sergeant  of  marines,  who  hiid  served  under  Nelson,  were  n 
huiidied  thousand  stand  of  arms,  tinished,  nnd  packed  for 
sending  to  the  various  arseniils  in  the  States,  nnd  for  dis- 
tribution amongst  the  niilitin.  The  present  American 
ride,  which  I  described  as  having  seen  nt  Wnshinjjton,  ns 
also  the  machinery  in  use  at  the  rifle  manufactory  at 
Harper's  Ferry,  were  tiie  invencion  of  Mr,  Hall,  who  is 
the  superintendnnt  of  the  establishment,  in  which  mar  u 
hundred  workmen  are  em)>loyed.  As,  in  the  musket  ma- 
ntifactory,  much  of  the  work  is  performed  by  machinery, 
one  man  through  the  medium  of  it  being  able  to  rifle  thirty 
barrels  per  day.  There  is  one  turn  in  nine  fiet,  so  that 
each  barrel,  being  longer  than  that  of  the  English  rifle, 


\ 


116 


▲  subaltern's  ruRLotroii. 


has  about  one-third  of  a  turn.  Mr.  Hall  showed  me  a 
new  invention,  a  specimen  of  which  he  was  busily  en* 
gaged  in  finishing  for  inspection  at  Washington.  It  con- 
sisted in  screwing  a  short  but  narrow  bayonet  to  the  end 
of  a  highly  tempered  steel  ramrod,  which,  when  drawn 
nearly  out  of  its  socket,  was  firmly  secured  at  the  muzzle 
of  the  rifle  by  a  sliding  ring ;  and  thus  formed  a  weapon 
eight  feet  in  length.  I  did  not  at  all  approve  of  it,  for  it 
appeared  too  slight  a  defence  agninst  even  the  parry  of  a 
sword,  which  caused  it  to  bend  immediately;  but  the  in- 
telligent inventor  was  very  sanguine  in  his  expectations 
of  its  being  generally  adopted  in  war.  Every  thing  con- 
nected with  both  establishments  was  carried  on  with 
great  exactness  and  neatness. 

The  town  will  soon  rise  into  considerable  importance, 
not  only  from  the  attraction  of  the  natural  beauty  of  its 
scenery,  and  the  large  manufactories,  but  also  from  the 
circumstance  of  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  running 
by  the  side  of  the  Potomac,  which  is  crossed  by  a  bridge 
of  700  feet  in  length,  opposite  to  the  town.  I  walked 
for  some  distance  along  tne  line  of  their  operations,  and 
never  saw  a  more  laborious  undertaking,  than  the  blast- 
ing and  excavating  at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  which  are 
nearly  800  feet  in  perpendicular  height.  Wherever  it  was 
practicable,  piers  nave  been  formed  in  the  river,  so  that  a 
considerable  extent  had  been  reclaimed  from  it.  A  trial 
came  on,  during  my  stay  at  the  town,  respecting  damages 
claimed  by  the  proprietor  of  a  smoll  house  which  occu- 
pied the  space  between  the  river  and  rocks,  so  exoctly  in 
the  centre  of  the  lino  of  canal,  that  there  was  not  room 
for  it  on  either  side.  The  owner  did  not  lay  his  damages 
at  the  intrinsic  value  of  the  house  (and  the  lot  upon  which 
it  was  built  was  but  a  mass  of  rook,  upon  which  he  could 
not  even  form  a  kitchen  gorden.)  but  upon  the  great  loss 
he  should  sustain  from  not  posacssiiig  such  a  piece  of 
ground  when  the  canal  was  completed,  and  the  jury  as- 
sessed the  damages  accordingly,  and  at  least,  at  four  times 
the  value  of  the  property,  tJpon  the  face  of  the  bare 
rocks,  4(K)  feet  above  the  bridge,  the  inhabitants  of  the 
town  have  formed  an  imaginary  likeness  of  Washington; 
but  it  ro(|uired  a  greater  stroicn  of  fancy  than  mine  to 
truce  any  thing  like  human  features  upon  it. 


A  subaltern's  rURlOUOH 


wed  me  a 
msily  en* 
I.    It  con- 

0  the  end 
en  drawn 
le  muzzle 
a  weapon 
r  it,  for  it 
parry  of  a 
lut  the  in- 
oectations 
ning  con* 

on  with 

iportance, 

uty  of  its 

from  the 

1  running 
TO.  bridge 
I  walked 
tions,  and 
the  blast* 
hich  are 
irer  it  was 

so  that  a 

A  trial 

domuges 

h  occu* 

xnctly  in 

lot  room 

amages 

n  which 

le  could 

rent  loss 

)iece  of 

ury  as* 

ur  times 

ie  bare 

of  the 

ington; 

■nine  to 


There  being  no  conveyance  in  the  direction  I  wished 
to  proceed,  I  stepped  into  a  large  flour-boat  about  to 
descend  the  Potomac,  and  for  some  distance  darted  over 
the  rapids  with  amazing  velocity.  The  river  is  rendered  • 
particularly  dangerous,  and  almost  innavigable  during  the 
summer  season,  by  the  innumerable  reefs  of  rocks  which 
cross  it  in  every  direction,  making  their  appearance  some 
feet  above  the  surface.  An  experienced  pilot  is  therefore 
required,  who,  in  the  freshets,  takes  his  station  at  the 
helm  astern  ;  but  in  low  water,  in  the  bow.  The  river 
being  excessively  low,  we  had  a  pilot  at  each  end  of  the 
boat  so  that  it  threaded  the  most  difficult  parts  in  gallant 
style,  rubbing  the  keel  occasionally  a  little  upon  the 
summits  of  the  rocks  beneath  the  water.  The  load  was 
only  forty  barrels  when  we  left  the  town;  but,  after  pass- 
ing the  most  precipitous  and  narrow  rapids,  we  ran  in- 
shore again,  and  took  on  board  an  additional  number  of 
thirty,  from  some  wagons  which  had  brought  them  by 
the  road  from  Harper's  Ferry,  and  again  proceeded 
rapidly  down  the  transparent  stream,  with  romantic 
scenery  on  either  bank,  until  we  struck  with  a  most  vio- 
lent shock  upon  a  sunken  rock,  which,  taking  the  boat 
in  its  centre,  made  every  plunk  and  barrel  quiver  with 
the  blow.  All  hands  immediately  set  to  work  moving 
the  cargo  into  the  bow  :  but  being  still  immovable,  the 
Captain  of  a  Mississippi  steamer,  a  passenger  on  board, 
recommended  the  crew  to  go  into  the  water  and  attempt 
to  raise  it  from  the  rock  with  levers,  stepping  out  of  the 
boat  himself  to  give  them  the  necessary  instructions,  No 
sooner  had  his  feet  touched  the  bottom  of  the  river,  and 
hu  had  quitted  his  hold  of  the  boat,  than  the  powerful 
current,  washing  him  fairly  off  his  legs,  carried  him  for 
a  coniNiderablu  distance  down  the  strram,  with  his  head 
bobbing  up  at  intervals,  like  the  float  of  a  line  when  a 
Hsh  is  nibolingat  the  bait.  At  every  re-appearance  of  hit 
head  above  the  foaming  waters,  he  "  roared  him,"  not  as 
Siiakspeare  says, 

"  Ai  gently  at  any  auckinf  dovo," 

but  more  like  a  young  elephant,  and  exched  shouts  of 
laughter  fVom  the  crew,  who  were  too  much  amused  with 


116 


A  subaltern's  pvrlouoh. 


the  scene  to  make  any  attempt  at  rescuing  him.  Being 
very  short-sighted,  and  his  spectacles  becoming  dim  from 
the  water,  it  was  no  easy  matter  for  him,  after  discovering 
our  position,  to  regain  the  boat ;  when  his  ardour  was 
so  cooled  that  he  did  not  recommend  any  more  experi- 
ments. 

The  application  of  levers  failing,  we  had  recourse  to 
the  simple  method  of  placing  some  loose  planks  that  were 
fortunately  on  board,  across  the  stream,  and  holding  them 
firmly  between  the  boat  an^  some  of  the  rocks,  so  that, 
acting  as  a  small  dam,  they  raised  the  water,  and  the  boat 
once  more  floated.  But,  soon  after,  running  a-ground 
again  in  the  shallows,  we  had  the  prospect  of  passing  the 
night  in  that  situation,  until  an  empty  boat,  on  its  way 
down  the  stream,  took  us  ashore  at  the  Point  of  Rocks, 
nine  miles  below  Harper's  Ferry  ;  in  performing  which 
distance  we  had  been  nine  hours,  and  toiling  hard  most 
of  the  time  in  an  excessively  hot  sun. 

A  town  rises  in  Amnrica  with  nn  uliiiust  lullsmanic  ra- 
pidity.     Immediately  some  new  lino  of  canal  or  railway 
IS  projected,  or  a  clearing  oommonced  on  the  banks  of  a 
navigable  stream,  a  tuvfrn  makes  its  appearance  upon  a 
spot  where  it  is  imagined  the  traveller  will  require  a 
"  drink  ;"  this  is  followed  by  a  saw  and  gristmill,  a  store 
or  two,  post-office,  printing-press,  and  bank.     To  use 
their  own  expression,  "every  one  govs  the  whole  hog;" 
the  freshets  probably  carry  away  the  mill,  or  the  bank 
breaks,  and  the  owners  "  clear  out,"  to  commence  their 
spt'cniations  afresh  cKsewhore.     Where  sixty  days  since 
had  been  a  complete  wilderness,  was  now  o  scene  of  bustle 
and  confusion .  a  town  was  fast  rising  from  amongst  the 
bushes  ;  the  streets  were  morkcdout.  and  a  tavern,  seve- 
ral stores,  and  upwards  of  fifty  houses,  wore  already 
inhabited.     The  fortunote  proprietor  of  the  ground  had 
sold  every  other  lot  for  a  triflmg  sum,  and  retoined  the 
remainder  in  his  possession,  letting  it  upon  short  build- 
ing leases  ;  also  calling  the  place  after  his  own  unroman- 
tic  name.and  sunersiKlmgthc  much  prettier  one  of"  Point 
of  Rocks,"  to  wnich  indeed  it  owed  its  rise.     The  Point 
is  the  end  of  u  range  of  rocky  hills,  which  opposes  a  firm 
barrier  to  the  advance  of  the  Baltimore  railway  ond  Chesa- 


im.  Being 
)g  dim  from 
discovering 
ardour  was 
lore  experi- 

recourse  to 
ks  that  were 
olding  them 
cks,  so  that, 
and  the  boat 
ig  a-ground 
passing  the 
on  its  way 
It  of  Rocks, 
ming  which 
^  hard  most 

ilismonic  ra- 

.1  or  rnilway 

0  banks  of  a 

ince  npon  a 

U  require  a 

mill,  a  store 

(.     To  use 

thole  hog ;" 

or  the  bank 

Tience  their 

:  days  since 

3ne  of  bustle 

imongst  the 

avcrn,  seve- 

pro  already 

jfround  had 

etttincd  the 

short  build- 

n  unroman- 

le  of"  Point 

The  Point 
)ose«  a  firm 

nnd  Chesa* 


A  subaltern's  furlovoh. 


119 


peake  Canal ;  which  have  both  the  same  object  in  view — 
that  of  communicating  with  the  Ohio.  By  much  blasting, 
and  enormous  expense,  there  would  be  barely  room  for 
either  of  them  to  pass  between  the  Potomac  and  the  Point ; 
but  both  arriving  at  the  same  spot  from  different  direc- 
tions,  and  nearly  at  the  same  time,  each  claimed  the  right 
of  priority  in  taking  possession  of  the  narrow  passage. 
The  canal  proprietors  made  an  ofier  so  to  compromise 
the  matter  that,  by  each  diminishing  the  respective  widths 
of  their  lines  of  communication  and  making  a  joint  ex- 
pense of  reclaiming  some  space  from  the  river,  there 
might  be  a  passage  for  both.     The  railway  proprietors, 
however,  objected  to  it,  and  laid  an  injunction  upon  the 
canal  to  discontinue  their  works  until  the  case  had  been 
tried  in  a  legal  court.    Afler  a  law-suit  of  two  years,  the 
verdict  was  given  against  them,  and  the  canal  engineers 
were  now  busily  engaged  in  removing  the  point  of  Hocks 
Some  bores  had  been  worked  to  the  depth  of  13  feet,  so 
as  to  undermine  1000  square  yards  of  rock,  which  would 
be  blown  up  as  a  grand  salute  on  the  4th  of  July,  to  the 
celebration  of  which  it  now  wanted  only  three  days.     I 
could  not  ascertain  how  they  intended  to  proceea  with 
the  railway :  but  it  was  stated  that  the  rival  company 
wouM  not  ooiect  to  renew  its  original  proposition.    It  is 
most  probable  that  the  canal   will  not  extend  beyond 
Cumberland,  the  company's  funds  beinff  nearly  exhaust- 
ed ;  though  the  public  seem  impressed  with  the  advan- 
toges  to  bo  derived  from  the  original  project  being  carried 
into  execution.  The  Alleghany  Mountains  :  rea  natural 
barrier  between  the  Western  and  Atlantic  States;  and 
the  former  will  become  daily  more  independent  of,  and 
distinct  from  the  latter,  which  may  end  in  a  separation, 
unless  mutual  intercourse  and  commercial  communica- 
tions are  kept  up  by  such  undertakings  as  those  alluded 
to. 

I  thought  the  inns  at  Harper's  Ferry  very  shabby, 
both  externally  and  internally,  though  one  was  kept  by 
an  ex-member  of  Congress,  and  major  of  militia ;  but 
the  one  at  the  Point  of  Rocks,  being  in  its  infancy,  was 
less  prepared  for  the  rei'.eption  of  numerous  gueststhanuny 
I  had  seen.     From  the  accommodation  with  which  I  had 


«ji 


120 


A  SOBALTfiRN's  FURLOVOR. 


met  since  roy  departure  from  Washington,  I  had  enter* 
tained  no  expectation  of  any  luxury  above  a  single  bed, 
in  probably  a  crowded  room ;  and  a  wash  in  the  morning 
without  glass,  soap,  or  towel,  at  the  pump  or  horse- 
trough  in  the  public  yard.  Upon  inquiring  if  I  could 
be  accommodated  with  a  bed,  I  was  therefore  perfectly 
satisfied  with  an  answer  in  the  affirmative,  qualified  with 
a  regret  "that  their  mattresses  had  not  yet  arrived  from 
Baltimore."  I  soon  became  heartily  tired  of  seeking  for 
adventures  in  these  out-of-the-way  places,  where  all  the 
arrangements  were  infinitely  worse  than  in  an  English 
pot-house.  The  owners  of  the  taverns  were  usually  men 
whose  sole  recommendation  consisted  in  shooting  well 
with  a  rifle,  and  bearing  a  commission  (something  higher 
than  a  subaltern's)  in  the  militia.     My  landlord  at  Har- 

Sers'  Ferry  excelled  in  invariably  striking  a  quarter  of  a 
ollar  (which  is  about  the  size  of  an  English  shilling) 
with  a  single  ball  at  thirty  paces  distant.    Injustice,  how- 
ever, to  the  honest  innkeeper  at  the  Point  of  Rocks,  I  am 
bound  to  say,  that,  in  the  hurry  of  my  departure,  I  lefl 
a  coat  hanging  up  in  the  bar  room,  and,  after  a  journey 
of  3000  miles,  found  it  neatly  packed  up  and  directed  to 
ray  address  at  the  hotel  in  New- York,  where  it  had  been 
laying  for  upwards  of  four  months,  though  I  had  long 
despaired  of  ever  seeing  it  again.     After  a  delightful 
swim  in  the  clear  Potomac,  and  wearied  with  the  day's 
hard  labour,  [  requested  to  bo  shown  up  stairs,  when  I 
was  again  ushered  into  a  room  containing  six  beds,  all 
of  which  were  to  be  doubly  occupied :  the  house,  too,  be- 
ing built  of  wood,  had  become  so  heated  during  the  day 
that  the  fire-king  himself  could  have  scarcely  endured 
the  temperature.     This  was  ruther  too  much  for  a  plea- 
•ure-seeking  traveller;  so,  walking  down  stni'-s  again,  I 
stepped  into  a  car  which  [  had  observed  dur.np  the  day 
upon  the  railway,  and  found  my  boat  compunion,  the 
Mississippi  Captain,  had  already  taken  possession  of  a 
corner,  m  search,  like  myself,  of  a  cooler  atmosphere. 
The  railway  was  continued  down  to  the  waters  edge 
close  to  the  Point  of  Rocks  ;  and  we  were  much  disturo- 
ed  during  the  night  by  a  man  moving  the  car  in  that  di- 
rection.    My  fellow-occupant,  still  having  I  suppose  the 


A  BlfBALTERN  S  rURLOUOH. 


Iiad  entef' 
'ingle  bed, 
i  morning 
or  horse- 
if  I  could 
perfectly 
lified  witn 
ived  from 
?eking  for 
sre  all  the 
I  English 
jally  men 
•ting  well 
ig  higher 
d  at  Har- 
arter  of  a 
shilling) 
tice,  how- 
jks,  lam 
ire,  I  left 
journey 
reeled  to 
had  been 
ad  long 
elightfui 
0  day's 
when  I 
beds,  all 
too,  be- 
the  day 
ndured 
a  plea- 
iq^ain,  I 
the  day 
on,  the 
on  of  a 
sphere, 
edge 
listurn- 
that  di- 
ose  thtt 


recollection  of  the  rapids  strongly  impressed  upon  his 
mindt  jumped  out  of  the  car  half  awake,  up  to  his  knees 
in  a  pool  of  water,  and,  fancying  himself  in  the  Potomac, 
floundered  about  in  it  to  my  infinite  amusement.  Some 
time  elapsed  before  he  gained  the  firm  ground  again, 
when,  turning  round,  he  checked  my  laughter  at  once 
by  saying,  "  Really  I  beg  you  ten  thousand  pardons,  but 
I  was  in  so  great  a  hurry  that  I  could  not  find  my  boots, 
so  put  on  your  shoes ;  however,  I  will  have  them  dried 
for  you  again."  They  were  not,  however,  completely 
dry  again  for  three  days.  This  incident  destroyed  my 
night's  rest  so  thoroughly  that  at  three  o'clock  I  set  oiit, 
in  company  with  a  gentleman  whose  acquaintance  I  had 
formed  merely  by  chance  the  preceding  day,  and  who  had 
very  kindly  obtained  a  horse  for  me  in  the  neighbourhood. 
We  rode  for  some  miles  on  the  towing  path  of  the  canal, 
close  to  the  placid  and  mirror-like  surface  of  the  Potomac, 
which  presented  a  delightful  contrast  to  the  rough  turbu- 
lence of  the  many  miles  of  rocky  torrent  above  the  Point. 
We  passed  by  the  quarries  from  which  the  columns  in 
the  Capitol  at  Washington  were  cut,  and  for  some  dis- 
tance through  part  of  the  estate  df  the  fine  old  patriarch, 
Charles  Carroll,  of  Carrolton,  who,  at  the  age  of  ninety- 
six,  lives  in  the  full  enjoyment  of  his  faculties,  revered 
and  bfc.oved  by  his  countrymen ;  being  the  only  survivor 
of  those  dariiig  men,  who,  in  1770,  risked  their  lives  and 
properties  by  affixing  their  signatures  to  the  Declaration 
of  Independence.* 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Monocacy  River,  which  pours  its 
waters  into  the  Potomac  six  miles  from  the  Point  of 
Rocks,  we  arrived  at  a  splendid  aqueduct,  considered  su- 
perior to  any  thing  of  the  kind  in  the  States,  thrown  over 
the  former  river  by  the  Canal  Company.  It  is  built  of 
a  hard  white  granite,  and  consists  of  seven  segment  arches, 
the  span  of  each  being  54  feet,  with  a  riseof  0  feet  in.the 
arch,  and  the  entire  length,  including  the  wings.  600 
feet.  The  water  upon  the  aqueduct  is  6  feet  in  depth, 
and  the  towing  path  8  feet  brood,  with  a  strong  iron  rail- 
ing on  the  outer  side,  The  entire  work  will  cost  126,000 


♦  Sinco  writing  the  above,  I  have  »ccu  n  notice  of  hii  (lcatl>  in  tlio 
public  prints. 
VOL.    I, — L. 


f 


'■^' 


/ 


# 


4. 


122 


A  subaltern's  fvrlouou. 


dollars  (S6,000/.  sterling.)  The  first  contractor  took  it 
at  seven  dollars  per  perch,  the  second  at  eleven ;  and  both 
failed  in  the  performance ;  the  third  and  present  one  has 
it  at  eleven  dollars  and  fifty  cents  {21.  Ss.  sterling.)  Two 
hundred  yards  beyond  this  is  a  beautiful  piece  of  work- 
manship, over  the  Little  Monocacy,  of  a  single  oblique 
arch  of  twisted  masonry. 

After  partaking  of  a  scanty  breakfast,  upon  my  return 
to  the  Point  of  Rocks,  I  proceeded  to  Baltimore,  fifty 
miles  distant  by  the  railway,  which  crossed  the  Monocacy 
some  miles  from  its  embouchure  into  the  Potomac.  The 
whole  line  of  road  bore  the  appearance  of  having  been  but 
slightly  surveyed  previously  to  laying  down,  and  as  if 
finished  hastily,  in  order  to  compete  with  its  rival :  some 
of  the  curves  round  the  hills  and  along  the  course  of 
rivulets,  were  such  as  to  entirely  cut  off  all  hopes  of  being 
every  able  to  establish  a  rapid  conveyance  by  the  intro- 
duction of  locomotive  engines.  The  inclined  planes  were 
very  precipitous,  two  of  them  being  about  at  an  elevation 
of  1  in  60,  where  a  tunnel  of  half  a  mile  would  have  avoid- 
ed the  hill.  The  rails,  being  laid  also  upon  wood,  are  too 
unstable  for  such  a  purpose,  and  liable  to  be  affected  by 
severe  frosts. 

Much  dissatis&ction  was  expressed  by  many  of  the 
passengers,  who  could  not  obtain  any  thing  strofiger 
than  water  to  quench  their  thirst  at  the  various  places 
where  we  stopped  to  change  horses,  from  either  the 
owners  of  the  nouses  or  the  proprietors  of  the  railway 
being  subscribers  to  the  rules  of  the  Temperance  Society. 

There  was  great  sameness  in  the  scenery,  until  we 
crossed  the  Blue  Ridge,  where  it  became  more  diversified 
and  picturesGue,  especially  near  the  flourishing  town  of 
Ellicott's  Mills,  in  a  most  romantic  dell  on  the  Patapsco 
River,  whose  margin  was  occupied  by  numerous  extensive 
cotton-mills,  scattered  over  an  extent,  of  several  miles, 
giving  the  country  quite  an  English  appearance.  The 
manufactories  were  prettily  situated  amongst  the  trees  on 
the  banks  of  the  river,  which  were  ornamented  with  c'  ^an 
white  cottages  and  gardens,  backed  by  huge  masses  of 
dark  granite.  Several  fine  bridges  have  been  built  across 
the  ravines  and  streams  between  this  place  and  Baltimore. 


tk* 


A  StTBALTERN  S   FURLOnOH. 


13S 


tor  took  it 
and  both 
nt  one  has 
ng.)  Two 
5  of  work- 
le  oblique 

ny  return 
jore,   fifty 
Monocacy 
nac.  The 
g  been  but 
and  as  if 
ml:  some 
course  of 
!s  of  being 
the  intro- 
anes  were 
elevation 
ave  avoid- 
od, are  too 
lected  by 

ny  of  the 
strotiger 
ms  places 
either  the 
e  railway 
e  Society. 
until  we 
iversified 
^  town  of 
Patapsco 
extensive 
al  miles, 
;e,     The 
)  trees  on 
rithcLan 
nasses  of 
ilt  across 
ahimore. 


One  over  Gwynn's  Falls  is  a  single  arch  of  80  feet  span, 
and  40  in  height ;  and  another  across  the  Patapsco  of 
four  arches  of  65  feet  span  each :  but,  although  furnished 
with  such  admirable  materials,  their  masonry  is  much  ' 
inferior  to  that  used  in  similar  works  in  Europe.  The 
main  object  in  America  appears  to  be,  to  finish  the  job  in 
hand  in  as  short  a  time  and  as  economically  as  possible. 
Several  of  the  principal  engineers  complained  to  me  fre- 
quently of  the  mistaken  economy  which  they  were  com- 
pelled to  pursue,  and  of  the  rapidity  with  which  they 
were  obliged  to  proceed,  without  being  permitted  to  con- 
struct the  work  in  such  a  manner  as  to  reflect  credit  upon 
themselves.  The  "deep  cut "  and  embankment  near  the 
city  have  l)een  stupenduous  undertakings,  the  former  be- 
ing nearly  a  mile  in  length,  and  its  greatest  depth  70 
feet,  and  the  latter  of  about  the  same  length,  with  its 
greatest  width  190,  and  elevation  56  feejt,  the  heaviest 
and  best  finished  section  of  the  road  being  from  Elli- 
cott's  Mills  to  Baltimore. 

I  was  only  eight  hours  and  forty  minutes  on  the  journey 
from  Baltimore  to  Philadelphia,  a  distance  of  ninety-seven 
miles  (sixteen  of  which  were  performed  by  horse  carriage 
on  the  Chesapeake  and  Delaware  Railway :)  a  material 
improvement' in  the  speed  of  travelling  on  that  to  which  I 
had  been  obliged  to  submit.  Much  against  the  advice  of 
several  friends  (the  alarming  news  that  the  cholera  had 
broken  out  in  New- York  having  just  arrived,)  I  proceed- 
ed on  my  journey  the  following  morning,  the  3d  of  July, 
wishing  to  be  present  at  the  celebration  of  the  "  glorious 
anniversary,"  which  was,  I  understood,  kept  up  with 
more  pomp  at  New- York  than  elsewhere  in  the  Union, 
imagining  that  a  few  scattered  cases  would  not  check  all 
festivities.  I  was  rather  surprised  to  find  so  many  nas- 
sengers  on  board  the  steamer  in  which  I  embarked  to 
proceed  up  the  Delaware ;  but,  the  news  having  arrived  at 
Philadelphia  only  late  in  the  evening,  it  was  not  generally 
known.  As  soon  as  the  report,  however,  began  to  spread 
through  the  vessel,  our  numbers  diminished  considerably 
at  each  place  where  we  touched ;  many  beinp[  intent  upon 
returning  home  and  others  intending  to  remam  where  they 
landed  until  the  account  was  corroborated  by  the  arrivtl  of 


134 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


a  vessel  from  the  infected  city.  A  Virginian  lady,  who 
had  two  pretty  daughters  in  charge  and  was  upon  her 
way  to  the  Northern  Springs,  burst  into  tears  and  cried 
most  bitterly  when  the  unwelcome  information  was  im- 
parted to  her,  and  left  us  at  the  first  small  village  where 
the  steamer  touched,  fully  determined  upon  returning 
forthwith  to  her  native  State. 

The  banks  of  the  river  are  low,  and  very  unhealthy 
during  the  "  Fall "  (as  the  Americans  invariably  term  the 
autumn ;)  but  some  pretty  little  villages  are  scattered  upon 
either  bank,  more  especially  those  of  Burlington  and 
Bristol,  nearly  opposite  to  each  other,  eighteen  miles  from 
Philadelphia:  I  have  seldom  seen  two  such  tastefully  laid 
out  little  spots.  The  houses  are  very  neat  and  above  the 
common  order,  with  gardens  attached  to  each,  extending 
to  the  margin  of  the  river,  which  is  ornamented  with  large 
and  graceful  weeping  willows,  whose  branches  kiss  the 
watery  element.  The  tower  of  a  summer-house,  in  the 
domamof  Joseph  Buonaparte,  at  Bordentown,  where  the 
ex-king  of  Spain,  or,  as  he  is  called  in  the  States,  the 
Count  de  Survilliers,  resides,  is  seen  from  the  deck  of  the 
steamer ;  and  six  miles  farther  on  the  left  bank  is  Trenton, 
the  capital  of  the  state  of  New-Jersey,  containing  about 
4000  inhabitants,  and  the  termination  of  the  steam  navi- 
gation, there  being  a  succestiun  of  rapids  immediately 
above  the  town.  A  singular  kind  of  bridge  of  five  arches, 
and  200  feet  span,  is  thrown  across  the  stream ;  these 
arches  are  roofed  in,  and  from  them  is  suspended  a  flat 
bridge,  whose  principal  beams  rest  upon  the  piers  of  the 
other  bridge.  The  carriages  and  passengers  cross  the 
river  on  the  lower  one  ;  but  the  upper  arches  give  the 
appearance  of  there  being  one  bridge  built  upon  another. 
The  town,  at  the  commencement  of  the  Revolutionary 
war,  was  in  the  possession  of  a  party  of  Hessians  and 
English,  who  were  surprised,  ana  1000  prisoners  cap- 
tured by  Washington,  on  the  26th  December,  1776.  He 
crossed  the  Delaware  on  Christmas  night,  when  the  se- 
verity of  the  weather  had  subjected  his  army  to  almost 
incredible  sufferings.  It  was  the  first  signal  victory  gained 
by  the  Revolutionists,  and,  occurring  when  many  consi- 
dered  themselves  engaged  in  a  hopeless  contest,  gavo 


A   SUBALTERN'S   FURLOUGH. 


125 


iady,  who 
upon  her 
and  cried 
I  was  im- 
ge  where 
returning 

inhealthy 
r  term  the 
3red  upon 
gton  and 
liles  from 
fully  laid 
above  the 
extending 
i^ith  large 
kiss  the 
se,  in  the 
^here  the 
tates,  the 
!ck  of  the 
Trenton, 
ng  about 
am  navi- 
lediately 
c  arches, 
;   these 
ed  a  flat 
rs  of  the 
:ros8  the 
give  the 
another, 
Jtionary 
ians  and 
lers  cap- 
?76.  He 
1  the  se- 
}  almost 
/  gained 
y  consi* 
8t,  gav« 


them  a  confidence  which  ensured  ultimate  success,  and 
was  soon  followed  by  the  partial  surprise  of  an  English 
division  at  Princeton,  ten  miles  farther.  The  main  road 
crosses  the  field  of  action,  on  the  high  grounds  at  Stony 
Brook.  Upon  our  arrival  at  Trenton,  nine  coaches  were 
drawn  up  at  the  pier  to  receive  the  passengers  from  the 
steamer,  and  set  oflf  in  their  regular  order  (I  had  the 
misfortune  to  be  in  No.  6,)  and,  keeping  within  a  few 
3rards  of  each  other  over  a  sandy  road,  such  immense 
clouds  of  dust  enveloped  us,  that  it  was  only  at  intervals 
I  gained  a  glimpse  of  the  country  through  which  we 
travelled.  The  College  at  Princeton,  founded  in  1738,  is 
rather  a  fine  old  building,  and  we  enjoyed  an  extensive 
view  over  the  long  flat  which  extends  towards  the  ocean, 
during  the  few  minutes  we  remained  to  change  horses. 
This  part  of  the  country,  and  the  state  of  New  Jersey  ge- 
nerally, is  celebrated  for  its  cider,  and  very  extensive  peach 
orchards,  formers  having  accumulated  large  fortunes  by 
the  growth  of  them.  We  passed  many  upon  the  side  of 
the  road  nearly  twenty  acres  in  extent,  and  every  tree  load- 
ed with  fruit.  The  soil  also,  being  light  and  sandy,  is  ad- 
mirably adapted  for  the  growth  of  apples  and  flax;  but  the 
cultivation  of  flax  has  much  decreased  of  late  years, 
there  being  now  not  an  eighth  of  the  quantity  grown 
which  was  some  few  years  since  exported  from  New- 
York,  so  entirely  has  its  use  been  superseded  by  cotton. 
The  country  also  bears  the  appearance  of  being  longer 
settled  and  more  highly  cultivated  than  more  to  the 
south.  Twenty-six  miles  from  Trenton  we  arrived  at 
New-Brunswick,  a  town  consisting  (with  probably  two 
or  three  exceptions)  of  wooden  houses ;  and  we  nailed 
with  joy  the  sight  of  the  smoke  of  the  steamer,  which 
lay  in  the  Raritan  River  awaiting  our  arrival.  Half 
suffocated  with  dust,  and  parched  with  thirst,  we  jumped 
on  board  every  one  scrambling  for  a  whisk  brush,  a  glass 
of  brandy  and  water,  or  a  wash-hand  basin. 

We  here  added  greatly  to  our  numbers,  by  the  acces- 
sion of  200  Irish  labourers  from  a  railway  in  the  vicinity, 
who  were  all  proceeding  to  celebrate  the  Declaration  of 
Independence,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  scarcely  one  of 
them  could  boast  of  retaining  his  sober  senses ;  when  the 


las 


▲  subaltern's  furlouoh. 


deck  presented  a  scene  which  would  have  done  credit  to 
Donnybrook  Fair.  One  poor  fellow  slipped  overboard  as 
we  were  putting  off  from  the  quay  at  New  Brunswick, 
and  lost  his  passage ;  for,  the  steamer  not  stopping  its 
engines,  he  was  obliged  to  struggle  to  the  shore  in  the 
best  manner  he  could  amongst  the  cheers  of  his  country- 
men. Man  (with  an  exception  or  two,  in  such  people  as 
Leander  and  Lord  Byron,)  is  always  an  awkward  kmdof 
animal  when  in  the  water,  but  I  thought  this  one,  with 
ft  large  hat  over  his  eyes,  and  bundle  under  his  arm,  of 
which  he  in  vain  attempted  to  retain  possession,  and 
but  an  ordinary  svrimmer,  a  most  ludicrous  and  singular 
object. 

For  several  miles  after  leaving  New-Brunswick,  we 
proceeded  up  the  Raritan  through  some  extensive  salt 
marshes,  where  numerous  people  were  busily  employed 
in  mowing.  The  river  took  most  extraordinary  curves 
through  it,  and,  being  exceedingly  narrow,  the  vessels  w» 
^'  were  meeting  appeared  as  if  moving  upon  the  dry  ground, 

and  those  which  were  by  the  course  of  the  stream  three 
or  four  miles  astern  as  if  approaching  from  an  opposite 
direction,  only  a  few  hundred  yards  distant.  Perth. Am- 
boy,  thirteen  miles  farther  is  a  bathing-place  of  some 
note  for  the  New- York  fashionables ;  and  sometimes  de- 
signated as  their  Brighton.  It  possesses  an  extensive  and 
safe  harbour,  being  situated  at  some  distance  from  the 
open  sea,  on  a  bay  of  the  Atlantic,  formed  by  Staten  Is- 
land (fifteen  miles  long  and  eight  wide)  on  the  one  side, 
and  by  the  Continent  on  the  other. 

The  opening  view  of  the  Bay  of  New- York,  with  its  nu- 
merous vessels,  batteries,  and  spires,  is  most  magnificent. 
There  is  no  rich  back-ground,  or  lofty  hills,  or  any  single 
object  which  of  itself  is  striking.  It  is  the  tout  ensemble 
which  is  so  pleasing.  We  saw  it  to  the  greatest  advantage, 
within  an  hour  of  a  mild  and  glorious  sunset,  when  the  pla- 
cid surface  of  the  bay  was  covered  with  almost  innumerable 
sails,  and  the  several  islands,  with  their  clean  snow-white 
forts  and  batteries,  were  reflected  upon  its  bosom  as  upon 
a  mirror,  and  land  and  sea  alike  were  tinged  with  a  light 
and  mellow  haze.  Numerous  broad  estuaries  and  rivers 
branch  off  from  the  bay,  intersecting  the  country  in  every 


A  subaltern's  fvrlouoh. 


127 


direction,  which  is  sufficiently  free  from  forest,  and  its 
graceful  undulations  are  richly  diversified  with  beautiful 
villages  and  extensive  farms.  The  spot  whence  we  caught 
the  first  sight  of  the  city  was  opposite  to  the  Merchants' 
Marine  Asylum,  on  the  island — a  building  erected,  as  its 
name  denotes,  for  the  reception  of  the  worn-out  sailors  of 
the  merchant  service ;  the  superfluous  funds,  which  are 
extensive,  are  most  laudably  appropriated  for  the  provi- 
sion of  the  widows  of  captains  who  have  been  subscribers 
to  the  institution.  The  site  seems  admirably  well  calculat- 
ed to  soflen  down  the  rigours  of  declining  old  age;  as  the 
veterans  may  enjoy  a  most  delightful  prospect  of  the  city, 
and  its  forests  of  masts,  with  orrery  inward  and  outward 
bound  vessel ;  as  also  the  views  of  Elizabethtown  and 
Newark,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Sound.  Within  twelve 
hours  from  our  leaving  Philadelphia,  we  landed  at  New- 
York,  a  distance  of  ninety-four  miles;  and,  after  under- 
going as  much  annoyance  from  the  officious  attentions  of 
hackney-coachmen  and  porters  as  one  would  in  the  streets 
of  London,  I  at  last  arrived  in  safety  at  the  City  Hotel, 
in  Broadway. 


•         ** 


128 


A   SCBALTBRN's   rURLOVOH 


'  .11 


,J/ 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Another  plag;ue  of  more  gigantic  Arm 
Arose ;  a  monster  never  known  before 
RearM  from  Cocytus  its  portentous  head : 
This  rapid  fury,  not  like  other  p^sts 
Pursued  a  gradual  course,  but  in  a  dav 
Rush'd  as  a  storm  o*er  half  th'  astonisn'd  isle. 
And  strew'd  with  sudden  carcases  the  land. 

....        and  here  the  Fates 
Were  kind,  that  long  they  linger'd  not  in  pain ; 
For  who  surviv'd  the  sun's  diurnal  race 
Rose  from  the  dreary  gates  of  hell  redeem'd, 
Some  the  sixth  hour  oppress'd,  and  some  the  third. 

Frantic  with  feeur  they  sought  by  flight  to  shun 
The  fierce  contagion — o'er  the  moumAil  land 
Th'  infected  city  pour'd  her  hurrying;  swarms. 

In  heaps  they  fell,  and  oft  one  bed  they  say 
The  sick'ning,  dying,  and  the  dead  contained. 


Doj'frerry— First  who  think  you  the  most  desartless  man  to  be 
constable  7 

lit  Wateh— Hugh  Oatcake,  Sir,  or  George  Seacoal  |  for  they  can 
read  and  write. 

Shaksfiari. 

The  morning  of  the  4th  of  July  was  ushered  in  with 
none  of  those  noisy  symptoms  which  usually  proclaim  the 
celebration  of  some  great  national  festival,  processions 
and  festivities  of  all  descriptions  having  been  aiocouraged 
by  the  board  of  health.  The  public  prints  echoed  the 
same  directions,  and  strenuously  advised  the  people  not 
to  assemble  in  crowds,  which  would  rather  have  a  ten* 
dency  to  encourage  the  advance  of  the  fatal  enemy  they 
so  much  dreaded,  The  order,  therefore,  respecting  a  ge- 
neral parade  of  the  troops  was  cancelled,  and  during  the 
day  there  was  but  one  insignificant  civic  procession;  and 
a  few  ill-dressed  and  worse-drille'd  volunteer  artillery, 
who  where  bent  upon  firing  a  salute,  paraded  through 
the  principal  streets  with  a  oand  of  mustc  and  brigade  of 


▲  subaltern's  furlodoh. 


third. 


MITKONO. 

ft  man  to  be 
for  they  can 

KIPIARI. 

sd  in  with 
oclaim  the 
irocessions 
iocouraged 
whoed  the 
people  not 
Bve  a  ten- 
[lemy  they 
cting  a  ge- 
during  the 
ssion;  and 
artillery, 
i  through 
brigade  of 


ffuns,  carrying  their  noisy  purpose  into  execution  at  mid- 
day, in  an  open  sauaro  on  the  margin  of  the  ba]^.  A 
crowd  of  boys  of  all  shades  of  colour,  with  a  few  children 
of  a  larger  growth  intermixed,  assembled  upon  the  trot- 
toirs,  firinff  off  guns,  pistols,  and  crackers,  to  the  im- 
minent peril  of  the  eyes  and  limbs  of  the  peaceable  citi- 
zens of  New- York.  Although  this  last  species  of  an- 
noyance had  been  strictly  forbidden  by  the  public  autho- 
rities, it  was  a  law  "more  honoured  in  the  breach  than 
,  the  observance;"  and  was  publicly  persevered  in  through- 
out the  entire  day  and  greater  part  of  the  night,  without 
any  efforts  being  made  to  checlc  it.  A  few  sons  of  Old 
Erin,  with  a  negro  or  two,  might  also  be  seen  keeping 
a  holiday;  and,  at  the  hotel,  I  overheard  a  party  (of  what 
country  I  know  not^  who  were  taking  a  glass  of 
wine  two  hours  after  tne  rest  of  the  table  whdte  had  dis- 
persed, singing — 

"Here's  a  health  to  the  King,  God  bleu  him." 

In  the  evening  I  attended  the  Park  Theatre,  the  Drury 
of  the  United  States :  its  front  was  brilliantly  illuminated, 
and  decorated  with  a  large  transparent  painting  of  Wash- 
ington. The  bills  of  the  performance  were  headed  in  large 
'  characters  with  "  Liberty  or  Death ;"  and  the  Qlory  of 
Columbia,  a  drama  with  miserable  dialogue  and  plot  was 
performed  as  an  introductory  piece  to  a  series  of  national 
songs  and  farces,  seasoned,  of  course,  with  some  hard 
blows  in  the  shape  of  abuse  at  John  Bull.  We  had 
•'Yankee  Doodle,  and  "Sons  of  Freedom,"  twice  en- 
cored; and  the  orchestra  played  Washington's  March,  and 
General  Spicer's  March, "  Hail  Columbia,"  and  "the  Star- 
spangled  banner,"  at  least  half  a  dozen  times  each;  every 
patriotic  citizen  appearing  to  think  himself  in  duty  bound 
to  attempt  keeping  time,  whether  or  not  he  had  any  ear 
for  music,  by  stamping  upon  the  floor  of  the  box  with  his 
feet,  so  that  let  the  music  be  what  it  would  I  could 
scarcely  hear  a  bar. 

It  is  said  that  seldom  a  day  elapses  without  a  Are  in 
New- York.  This  day  there  were  not  fewer  than  ten.  At 
one  which  I  witnessed,  four  or  Ave  houses  ware  destroy* 


)■/ 


130 


A  subaltern's  furlouoh 


ed,  and  a  fireman  was  killed.  Most  of  these  conflagra- 
tions, I  heard,  had  their  origin  from  squibs  or  crackers : 
and  thus  ended  the  4th  of  July, 

So  many  Americans  had  spoken  to  me  of  the  grandeur 
and  magnificence  of  Broadway,  some  even  asserting  that 
no  street  in  London  was  superior  to  it,  that  I  felt  very 
much  disappointed,  and  think  that  the  same  comparison 
might  have  been  more  justly  drawn  with  Liverpool.  The 
shops  in  it  certainly  cannot  vie  with  those  even  in  the 
latter  town ;  but,  in  the  number  of  equipages.  New- York 
excols  it,  and  far  outvies  London,  or  any  English  town,  in 
its  hackney  coaches,  which  are  so  remarkin)ly  neat,  and 
even  handsome,  that  a  foreigner  might  be  well  excused 
for  imagining  them  to  be  private  carriages,  Broadway 
is  throughout  the  day  thronged  with  gay  vehicles  and 
equestrians,  and  a  perpetual  stream  of  that  convenient  but 
uncomfortable  London  Carriage,  an  "  omnibus,"  not  the 
least  remarkable  thing  about  those  in  New- York  being 
that  (though  every  man  affects  to  despise  titles  and  rank) 
they  are  all  named  "Lady  Clinton,*'  "  Lady  Washington," 
•*  uidy  Van  Rensselaer,"  and  other?  as  strangely  incon- 
sistent. Sometimes,  too,  servants  in  half  livery  may  bo 
seen  sitting  on  the  box  of  a  carriage,  whose  door-pannels 
are  ornamented  with  a  crcs'.  This  street  is  about  thrte 
miles  in  length,  and  eighty  feet  in  width,  extending  in 
nearly  a  straight  line  from  one  end  of  the  city  to  the  otner. 
The  streets  are  clean  for  an  American  city ;  but  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  cholera  had  caused  the  corporation  to 
exert  themselves  in  attending  more  closely  to  tne  cleanli- 
less  of  them.  Some  wag  observed,  in  one  of  the  public 
prints,  that  the  scavengers  had  actually  dug  down  to  the 
pavement  in  one  or  two  places,  and  that  the  city  was 
cleansed  thoroughly, 

Manhattan  IslandC  on  which  the  city  stands,  and  which 
is  formed  by  the  Hudson,  the  Harloam,  and  East  rivers, 
with  the  bay  on  the  south,  is  fiflcon  miles  in  length,  and 
from  two  to  three  in  breadth.  The  Old  Town,  near  th« 
bay,  much  resembles  an  English  one,  but  the  horthom 
part  of  it  is  ns  regularly  laid  out  as  Philadelphia  or  Wash- 
ington, and  numbers  about  eighty-seven  strettt.  The 
wharfs  are  similar  to  those  of  Philadelphia,  but  not  qulto 


▲  subaltern's  furlough. 


m 


9  conflagra- 
>r  crackers : 

tie  grandeur 
iserting  that 
t  I  felt  very 
comparisoti 
jrpool.  The 
even  in  the 
New-York 
iish  town,  in 
ly  neat,  and 
rell  excused 
Broadway 
vehicles  and 
irenient  but 
us,"  not  the 
York  being 
!S  and  rank) 
''ashin^ton," 
igely  incon- 
ery  may  bo 
oor-pannels 
about  thrte 
ixtending  in 
to  the  other, 
but  the  ap- 
rporation  to 
tne  cleanli- 
f  the  public 
down  to  the 
he  city  was 

,  and  which 
East  rivers, 
length,  and 
m,  near  the 
^e  northern 
ia  or  Wash- 
retts.  The 
ut  not  quito 


so  ragged,  and  extend  much  farther  up  the  east  than  the 
Hudson,  or  North  River,  as  it  is  generally  called,  thus  de- 
priving the  great  discoverer  of  the  honour  of  giving  his 
name  to  the  noble  stream.  On  the  south-west  point  of 
the  island,  overlooking  the  bay,  is  a  fine  public  promenade, 
of  from  600  to  600  yards  in  length,  and  160  in  breadth, 
prettily  laid  out  in  walks,  and  planted  with  trees.  In  the 
evenings  it  is  generally  crowded  with  citizens,  who  as- 
semble to  derive  the  benefit  from  a  pleasant  breeze  ofifthe 
water,  or  listen  to  a  band  that  frequently  plays  in  the 
Castle  garden,  which  is  connected  with  the  walk  by  a 
wooden  bridge,  upon  which,  and  along  the  whole  extent 
of  the  public  walk,  may  be  seen  various  Cockney  anglers, 
of  most  persevering  dispositions.  The  former  promenade 
is  called  the  Battery,  from  having  in  the  olden  times  of 
the  Dutch  settlers,  or  during  the  Revolutionary  war, 
mounted  a  few  guns ;  and  the  Castle  garden  in  a  similar 
manner  possesses  no  garden,  nor  could  it  ever  have  pos- 
sessed one,  being  a  modern  stone  fort,  with  twenty-eight 
embrasures,  built  upon  a  solid  rock,  which  appeared  but  a 
short  distance  above  the  water.  This  being  an  unprofitable 
kind  of  investment  of  funds,  has  been  let  by  the  Corpora- 
tion to  a  publican,  who  has  converted  it  to  a  much  more 
profitable  use,  charging  sixpence  sterling  for  admission, 
and  giving  a  ticket,  so  that  the  visitor  mny  enjoy  a  stroll 
upon  the  upper  platform  of  the  fort,  admire  the  view,  and 
then  call  for  a  glass  of  some  liquor  at  the  bar,  for  which 
he  is  not  charged  any  thing.  The  Battery,  nevertheless, 
is  the  most  pleasant  promenade  in  New- York,  and  far 
excels  any  thing  else  of  the  kind  in  America.  Governor's 
Island,  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  distant  in  the  bay, 
has  a  large  stone  circular  fort  with  three  tiers  of  embra- 
sures, ond  is  calculated  for  m  .re  than  100  guns  at  its 
western  extremity.  When  I  entered  it  through  the  small 
wicket  door,  I  was  nearly  upset  by  a  quantity  of  half* 
starved  pigs,  which  rushed  grunting  up  to  ine,  as  if  at- 
tempting to  gain  the  exterior  of  the  fort,  and  compelled  me 
to  make  strenuous  use  of  my  walkingstick.  The  interior 
was  little  better  than  a  stye,  and  in  a  most  unfinished 
state.  In  the  centre  of  the  island,  a  small  quadrangular 
fort  is  connected  with  the  circular  one  by  a  covered  way, 


I) 


m 


A  subaltern's  furlouor. 


with  barracks  and  military  stores  in  the  interior.  Vast 
numbers  of  workmen  were  employed  in  facing  the  works 
with  granite;  and  the  whole  island  forcibly  reminded  me 
of  Washington  Irving's  happy  description,  as  "  resem- 
bling  a  fierce  little  warrior  in  a  big  cocked-hat,  breathing 
gunpowder  and  defiance  to  the  world."  Though  these 
works  may  not  enhance  the  attractions  of  the  scene,  they 
do  not,  like  the  numerous  poplars  on  the  island,  mar  the 
beauty  of  the  noble  sheet  of  water ;  and,  if  those  who 
hold  dominion  over  the  island  possessed  any  love  for 
the  picturesque,  they  would  grub  them  up  root  and 
branch ;  for  certainly,  to  quote  the  above  ingenious  au* 
thor  again,  they  do  look  "  like  so  many  birch-broomi 
standing  on  end."  On  Bedlow's  and  Ellis's  Island,  at 
also  at  the  Narrows  (the  entrance  of  the  bay  from  the 
Atlantic,)  are  most  formidable  batteries,  nearly  all  of 
which  are  at  present  upon  the  peace  establishment,  as  I 
did  not  see  a  single  gun  mounted,  and  only  a  few,  with- 
out carriages,  upon  the  circular  fort  on  Oovernor't 
Island. 

Of  the  public  buildings,  the  City  Hall,  containing  the 
Supreme  Court,  Mayor's  Court,  ana  various  public  offices, 
situated  in  the  park,  a  fine  and  handsome  square,  is  the 
most  remarkable ;  and,  being  fronted  with  white  marble, 
has  a  beautiful  enect  when  seen  through  the  forest-trees 
in  the  park.  The  building  is  upwards  of  SOO  feet  in 
length,  with  a  dome  and  tower  surmounted  by  a  statue  of 
Justice.  A  rough  stone  prison  on  the  right,  and  a  building 
on  the  left  used  as  a  cholera  hospital  during  my  resi* 
dence,  occupy  one  side  of  the  park :  this  last  appeared, 
from  its  large  portico  in  front,  and  style  of  architecture, 
to  be  a  church.  The  Merchants'  Exchange  in  Wall-street 
(the  Lombard-street  of  London)  is  a  fine  edifice,  of  the 
same  material  as  the  front  of  the  City  Hall.  The  base- 
ment story  is  occupied  by  the  Post  Office,  and  above  it 
the  Exchange,  85  toot  in  l<?ngth,  66  in  width,  and  46  in 
height  to  the  dome,  from  which  it  is  lighted.  Tho  greater 
proportion  of  the  other  buildings  in  the  street  are  in- 
surance offices,  bankf),  nnd  exchange  offices.  With  regard 
to  the  charitable  institutions,  1  can  say  nothing,  tho 
cholera  raging  so  violently  in  some  of  them  that  it  would 


A   SUBALTERN  S   FCRLOVOU. 


133 


nor.  Vast 
!f  the  works 
minded  me 
as  ••  resem* 
t,  breathing 
ough  these 
scene,  they 
id,  mar  the 
those  who 
ly  love  for 
root  and 
j^enious  au* 
rch-broomi 
Island,  ai 
f  from  the 
arly  all  of 
iment,  as  I 
few,  with- 
Qovemor't 

taining  the 
blic  offices, 
lare,  is  the 
lite  marble, 
forest-trees 
200  feet  in 
'  a  statue  of 
I  a  building 
g  my  resi- 

appeared, 
rchitecture, 
Wall-street 
fice,  of  the 
The  base- 
\  above  it 

and  45  in 
'ho  greater 
oet  are  in- 
^ith  regard 
thing,  the 
U  it  would 


not  have  been  prudent  to  have  visited  them;  and  strangers 
were  refused  admittance  to  the  prisons  for  fear  of  im- 
parting the  disease  to  the  inmates.     In  the  Academy  of 
Fine  Arts  there  was  scarcely  any  thing  which  could  im- 
press one  with  a  favourable  idea  of  the  advance  of  the 
pictorial  art  in  New- York.    The  portraits  were  all  stiff, 
unnatural  productions,  devoid  of  all  life,  and  evidently 
from  the  brush  of  very  young  artists.    The  an:hitectural 
designs,  too,  of  which  some  few  were  displayed,  were  but 
poor  and  void  of  taste.    Colonel  Trumbull,  some  pf  whose 
efforts  in  the  art  decorate  the  Capitol  at  Washington,  and 
who  is  the  president  of  the  academy,  also  exhibits  his 
paintings,  many  of  which  are  historical,  in  a  separate 
exhibition.    They  are  rendered  particularly  interestmg  by 
containing  nearly  250  portraits  of*  persons  distinguished 
during  the  revolution.     The   rest  are  miniatures,  and 
copies  from  celebrated  artists,  painted  by  Colonel  Trum- 
bull when  studying  in  England.    The  American  engrav- 
ings show  a  great  harshness  and  indistinctness  oftouoh, 
which  must  ever  bo  the  case  where  so  little  encourage- 
ment is  given  to  the  art.    One  of  the  principal  booksellers 
in  Broadway  assured  me  ho  found  it  exceedingly  difficult 
to  dispose  of  a  few  copies  of  the  annuals  which  are  got 
up  in  Boston;  the  demand  being  only  for  the  English. 
Scarcely  any  of  the  literary  sketches  or  illustrations  in  the 
former  are  original :  the  few  contributions  which  can  boast 
of  being  truly  American  are  such  as  would  not  find  u 
place  in  any  British  magazine.  The  only  good  specimens 
of  lithography  I  ever  saw  in  the  States  were  Ly  Pendleton 
of  New- York. 

The  Museum  in  the  Park  contains  some  excellent  spe- 
cimens of  natural  history,  very  well  arranged.  Although 
it  cannot  vie  with  Philadelphia  in  displaying  such  a  mon- 
strous skeleton  as  the  mammoth,  yet  it  may  be  said  to 
have  a  mammoth  turtle, — such  indeed  as  o^  itself  would 
almost  furnish  sufficient  soup  for  a  lord  mayor's  feast. 
It  was  caught  off  Sandy  Hook,  within  fifteen  miles  of  the 
vity,  by  somo  pilots,  and  weighs  1000  pounds. 

Niblo's  Gardens,  in  imitation  of  those  at  Vauxhall, 
were  a  great  attraction  to  the  citizens,  and  the  arrange- 
ments were  most  admirably  conducted.     There  was  su 

?«l.  I. — M. 


134 


A   SABALTKRN'S   rURLOVGH. 


excellent  band  of  music,  and  a  good  display  of  fire-works 
the  night  I  attended,  with  a  much  greater  assemblage  of 
people  than  I  should  have  expected.  A  panorama  was 
exhibited  in  one  part  of  the  building,  where  the  visitors 
assembled  for  hearing  the  music.  It  represented  the 
struggle  of  the  Greeks  for  their  liberty,  and  the  battle  of 
Navarino.  The  owner,  or  showman,  mformed  us  that  it 
had  been  exhibited  in  Leicester-square;  but  I  much 
doubted  whether  he  treated  his  audience  in  London  with 
the  lecture  upon  the  blessings  of  liberty  with  which  he 
thought  fit  to  favour  them  in  New- York.  He  represented 
to  us  in  the  most  glowing  terms  and  bombastic  language, 
with  the  tone  of  a  man  who  acts  in  the  same  capacity  in 
a  menagerie,  "  how  the  English  had  no  right  to  enter  the 
bay  of  Navarino;  that  they  were  the  first  peace-breakers ; 
and,  had  the  officers  commanding  the  batteries  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  bay  been  but  for  a  moment  aware  of  such 
an  intention,  they  would  have  instantaneously  sunk  the 
whole  fleet '" 

At  the  Bowery  Theatre,  which  holds  the  second  rank 
in  the  histrionic  world  in  New- York,  but  which  in  the 
external  appearance  and  elegance  of  its  interior  excels 
that  in  the  Park ;  I  saw  Miss  Vincent,  a  young  American 
actress  of  great  promise,  perform  in  Goldsmith's  play  of 
"  Sho  stoops  to  Conquer,"  and  the  "  Maid  of  Milan." 
Her  talents  were  of  a  higher  order  than  those  of  any 
American  actress  I  saw  in  the  country. 

1  wns  much  amused  with  the  familiar  manner  in  which 
an  auctioneer,  who  held  sales  of  books  ond  prints  every 
evening  in  some  rooms  in  Broadway,  spoke  of  the  execu- 
tive, and  men  in  authority,  when  he  nad  occasion  to  make 
mention  of  them.  I  whiled  awoy  many  an  idle  hour  in 
listening  to  his  wit,  and  the  quick  repartees  from  some 
of  the  assembled  crowd.  One  night,  when  he  had  some 
biogriiphical  works  to  dispose  of,  the  following  scene  oc- 
curnnl,  "  Here,"  said  the  wai^',  bringing  out  the  Life  of 
Jackson,  "who'll  buyold  Hickory?" — the  name  by  which 
the  President  is  generally  culled,  from  the  hard  wood 

"inoss.     "  I'll  give  a  cent 

,"  answered  the  other, 

go  lor  twice  tnat;  I'd  sooner  keep  it  my- 


uw  r-n'Hiuwm  is   grm'rniiy  cniii'u, 
which  they  say  he  rivals  in  toughnri 
for  it,"  said  some  one;  "  youshunV 
"  I'll  not  let  it  go  for  twice  that;  !'< 


Df  fire-works 
ssemblage  of 
norama  was 
i  the  visitors 
resented  the 
the  battle  of 
led  us  that  it 
but  I  much 
Liondon  with 
th  which  he 
I  represented 
ic  language, 
3  capacity  in 
t  to  enter  the 
ce-breakers ; 
es  at  the  en- 
are  of  such 
ily  sunk  the 

second  rank 
vhich  in  the 
erior  excels 
g  American 
ith's  play  of 
I  of  Milan." 
hose  of  any 

ler  in  which 

prints  every 

»f  the  execu- 

ion  to  make 

die  hour  in 

from  some 

le  had  some 

ig  scene  oc- 

t  the  Lift!  of 

nob)  which 

hard  wood 

give  a  cent 

id  the  other, 

keep  it  my- 


k  subaltern's  furlovoh. 


188 


self:"  at  last  it  went  for  a  quarter  dollar.  The  next 
work  he  brou^:ht  out  was  the  Life  of  Glayj  "  Comet 
here,  they  ought  to  go  together,  who'll  bid  for  our  next 
would-be  presic.ent?  he  shall  go  for  two  cents."  "  WiU- 
be  president  I"  said  a  rough  voice  out  of  the  crowd, 
"  twenty-five  cents."  "  Take  him,  then,  Mr.  Cash,  he's 
yours — he's  not  worth  half  that — you'll  stick  in  the  mud 
before  you  have  waded  half  throvigh  it." 

Thechurches  in  New- York  are  handsomer  edifices  than 
those  in  the  southern  cities  I  visited,  and  contain  some 
interesting  monuments.  St.  Paul's,  in  the  Park,  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  States.  In  the  interior,  there  is  a 
tablet  in  the  chancel  to  Sir  Robert  Temple,  baronet,  the 
first  consul-general  to  the  United  States  from  England, 
who  died  in  the  city;  and  one  to  the  wife  of  the  British 
governor  of  New- Jersey,  who  died  during  the  revolution 
from  distress  of  mind,  being  separated  from  her  husband 
by  the  events  of  the  time.  In  the  yard,  also,  there  is  a 
large  Egyptian  obelisk  of  a  single  block  of  white  marble, 
32  feet  in  height,  erected  to  Thomas  Emmett,  an  eminent 
counsellor  at  law,  and  brother  of  the  Irish  orator  who 
suffered  during  the  rebellion.  When  I  visited  New- York 
again,  some  months  afterwards,  one  front  of  it  was  em- 
bellished with  an  emblematical  representation  of  his  for- 
tunes. Though  it  was  in  an  unfinished  state,  and  the 
canvass  had  not  been  removed  from  before  the  scaflTolding, 
I  could  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  representation  of  a  hand, 
with  a  wreath  or  bracelet  of  shamrock  round  the  wrist, 
clasping  one  with  a  similar  ornament  of  stars,  and  the 
eagle  of  America  bheltering  the  unstrung  harp  of  Ireland. 
Mr.  Emmet  had  emigrated  to  the  States,  and  settled  in 
New-York,  where  he  had  acquired  considerable  reputa- 
tion many  years  previous  to  his  death.  There  is  also  ano- 
ther monument  near  it  under  the  portico  of  the  church  to 
General  Montgomery,  who  fell  in  the  unsuccessful  attack 
upon  Quebec  in  1775.  This  monument  was  erected  pre- 
viously to  the  declaration  of  independence  by  the  Congress ; 
and  in  1818,when  his  remains  were  removed  from  Quebec 
to  New- York,  and  interred  at  St.  Paul's,  another  tablet 
was  added  recording  the  event ;  though  at  the  time  great 
doubts  were  entertained  whether  they  actually  were  th« 


136 


A   subaltern's   rURLOUOH. 


general's  remains  which  were  exhumed.  The  matter  was, 
however,  subsequently  set  at  rest  beyond  a  doubt,  by  the 

Eublication  of  a  certificate*  drawn  up  by  the  person  who 
ad  actually  buried  the  general  in  the  first  instance,  and 
who  was  then  living  in  Quebec,  at  a  very  advanced  age, 
being  the  only  survivor  of  the  army  which  served  under 
Wolfe.    There  is  a  very  handsome  monument,  near  the 
centre  of  the  churchyard,  erected  by  Kean,  of  Drury  Lane 
Theatre,  to  Cook,  the  actor.  Trinity  Church,  which  is  also 
in  Broadway,  was  the  oldest  in  the  city,  having  been  ori- 
ginally built  in  1696,  but  destroyed  by  fire  eighty  years 
afterwards,  althoiigh  from  the  circumstance  of  a  monu- 
ment in  the  churchyard,  of  1691,  it  appears  it  was  used 
as  a  burial-ground  some  time  previously.     Though  not 
containing  much  above  an  acre  of  ground,  by  a  moderate 
calculation,  not  fewer  than  200,000  bodies  have  been 
buried  in  it.     Of  late  years  there  have  been  no  burials, 
and  weeping  willows  with  various  trees  have  been  planted, 
whibh  m  time  will  make  it  ornamental  to  the  city.     In 
one  corner  are  the  ruins  of  a  monument,  erected  but  six- 
teen years  since  to  Captain  Lawrence,  of  the  American 
navy,  who  fell  defending  his  Ship,  the  Chesapeake,  against 
Sir  P.  Broke,  in  the  Shannon.     His  body  was  taken  to 
Halifax,  in  Nova  Scotia,  and  buried  there  with  all  the  ho- 
nours of  war,  the  pall  being  the  American  ensign  sup- 
ported by  six  of  the  senior  captains  in  the  royal  navy, 
then  in  the  harbour.     But  the  Americans  immediately 
after  sent  a  vessel  with  i  flag  of  truce  to  apply  for  the 
removal  of  the  body,  which  being  granted,  it  was  re-buried 
in  Trinity  Churchyard,  and  the  present  monument,  no 
lasting  memorial  of  his  country's  grief,  erected  upon  tho 
spot.    It  is  a  most  shabby,  economical  structure,  built  of 
brick  and  faced  with  white  marble.     The  column,  of  the 
Corinthian  order,  is  broken  short,  with  part  of  the  capital 
lying  at  the  base  of  the  pedestal,  emblematic  of  his  pre- 
mature death.     Owing  to  the  summit  being  exposed  to 
the  weather,  the  rain  has  gained  admittance  into  the  in- 
terior of  the  brick-work,  and  has  given  the  column  a  con- 
siderable inclination  to  one  side.     Some  of  the  marble 

*  Vide  Appendix  9, 


A   BVBALTBRN'8  PVKLOUVH. 


13T 


e  matter  was, 
Joubt,  by  the 
I  person  who 
nstance,  and 
ivanced  age, 
erved  under 
snt,  near  the 
Drury  Lane 
ivhich  is  also 
ing  been  ori- 
sighty  years 
of  a  monu- 
it  was  used 
Though  not 
'  a  moderate 
have  been 
I  no  burials, 
een  planted, 
le  cily.     In 
:ted  but  six- 
e  American 
lake,  against 
las  taken  to 
1  all  the  ho- 
ensign  sup- 
royal  navy, 
umediately 
>ply  for  the 
ts  re-buried 
dument,  no 
d  upon  tho 
\rv,  built  of 
imn,  of  the  • 
the  capital 
9f  his  pre* 
Qx posed  to 
nto  the  in^ 
imn  a  con* 
le  marble 


front  also,  with  two  '  'des  of  that  of  the  pedestal,  have 
fallen  down  and  exposed  the  shabby  interior.  Surelj 
such  a  man  deserved  a  monument  of  more  durable  mate- 
rials. That  the  Americans,  however,  were  not  unmind- 
ful of  the  respect  paid  to  his  remains  by  the  British,  ap- 
pears from  the  following  part  of  the  inscription  upon  the 
monument  :— 

"  His  bravery  in  action 

Was  only  equalled  by  his  modesty  in  triumph, 

And  his  magnanimity  to  the  vanquished. 

In  private  life 

He  was  a  gentleman  of  the  most  generous  and  endearing  qualities ; 

And  8)  acknowledged  was  his  public  worth 

That  the  whole  nation  mourned  his  loss, 

And  the  enemy  contended  with  his  countryinen 

'  Who  most  should  honour  his  remains." 

There  is  a  monument  near  it  to  the  memory  of  General 
Hamilton,  who  had  served  with  distinction  under  Wash- 
ington, and  ranked  high  as  a  statesman.  He  was  killed 
in  a  duel  by  Colonel  Burr,  the  Vice-president  of  the 
United  States,  who  is  yet  living  in  New- York,  The 
inscription  is  as  follows ; — 

To  the  memory  of  Alexander  Hamilton 
The  Corporation  of  Trinity  Church 
,    ,  Have  erected  this  monument 

>'  In  testimony  of  theirrespcct for 

''    '     "    '       The  Patriot  of  incorruptible  integrity, 
The  soldier  of  approved  valour, 
The  statesmn  ;i  of  consummate  wisdom ; 

Whose  talents  und  whose  virtues 

Will  be  admired  by  a  grateful  nosterity 

Long  after  this  marble  shall  have  mouldered  into  dust. 

He  did  July  8d,  1804,  aged  47. 

Brooklyn,  on  the  opposite  side  of  East  River,  and  aitU' 
ated  upon  Long- Island,  is  a  place  of  considerable  imnort- 
ance,  containing  upwards  of  13,000  inhabitants.  There 
are  many  country  seats  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  belonff- 
ing  to  New- York  merchants.  In  the  navy  yard  on  Wall- 
about  Bay,  at  the  upper  end  of  the  town,  were  two  large 
frigates  upon  the  stocks  ;  and,  as  in  the  other  yards  at 
Fhiladelpnia  and  Washington,  considerable  additions 


139 


▲  subaltern's  furlough. 


were  making  in  erecting  buildings,  piers,  &c.  The  in- 
trenchments  thrown  up  in  defence  of  the  town  in  1776, 
when  the  American  army  received  so  terrible  a  defeat 
from  the  British  and  Hessians  under  Cornwallis  and 
OUnton,  still  remain  upon  the  hill  in  the  rear  of  the  navy 
yard ;  and  the  marsh  where  so  many  were  smothered  in 
the  retreat  is  seen  from  thence  near  the  Bay  upon  the 
right.  Situated  in  a  similar  manner  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  city,  and  across  the  Hudson,  is  Hoboken.a  parti- 
cularly pretty  spot  and  great  promenade  and  lounge  for 
the  citizens.  They  assemble  here  in  great  numbers,  the 
gardens  being  tastefully  laid  out  in  walks,  to  stroll  about 
and  to  enjoy  a  ride  upon  a  circular  rail-road  devised  by 
some  ingenious  person.  It  is  built  upon  frame  work, 
raided  three  feet  from  the  ground.  The  carriages  which 
run  upon  it  are  so  constructed  that  those  who  sit  in  them 
by  turning  a  handle  in  front  of  the  seat,  keep  the  carriage 
in  motion,  when  it  is  once  set  off  by  a  slight  push,  and 
urge  it  along  with  great  rapidity ;  being  allowed  to  travel 
threo  times  round  it,  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  for  a  shil- 
ling. However,  it  was  a  pleasure  which  1  thought  dear- 
ly earned,  and  very  ftuiguing  to  the  arms,  for  those  who 
are  ambitious  of  speedy  travelling.  There  area  double 
set  of  rails,  and  only  two  carriages,  which  take  contrary 
directions,  so  that  a  slugs^ish  man  cannot  be  run  over. 
Hoboken  being  in  New  Jersey,  and  out  of  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  the  city,  affairs  of  honour  are  generally  settled 
under  a  high  bank,  some  distance  above  the  landing-place 
where  General  Hamilton  fell.  Upon  my  return  one  day 
from  this  place  to  the  city,  I  met  a  procession  of  several 
hundreds  of  African  blacks,  parading  through  the  streets, 
with  music  and  banners  of  their  different  trades  and  so- 
cieties. The  majority  of  them  appeared  to  be  true  wor- 
shippers of  Bacchus ;  the  sailors  carried  some  models  of 
small  vessels  of  war,  while  their  band,  rollingabout  in  front, 
attempted  to  play  the  "British  Grenadiers."  All  wore  a 
yollow  sash  across  their  shoulders,  and  those  at  the  head 
of  the  column,  apparently  the  officers  of  the  Society,  were 
Upon  horseback,  and  equipped  in  frock  coats,  blue  sash- 


▲  subaltern's  furlovob. 


130 


c.     The  m- 
rni  in  1770, 

ble  a  defeat 
iwallis  and 
of  the  navy 
mothered  in 
y  upon  the 
pposite  side 
£en,  a  parti- 
1  lounge  for 
umbers,  the 
stroll  about 
devised  by 
rame  work, 
ages  which 
sit  in  them 
he  carriage 

Jush,  and 
to  travel 
\  for  a  shil- 
oiight  dear- 
:  those  who 
re  a  double 
i.e  contrary 
run  over, 
le  jurisdic- 
lly  settled 
ding-placo 
rn  one  day 
of  several 
the  streets, 
les  and  so- 
true  wor- 
models  of 
)ut  in  front, 
\.ll  wore  u 
It  the  head 
iiety,  wero 
blue  sash* 


es,  yellow  or  blue  satin  trowsers,  making  their  steeds 
caper  about,  and 

*'  Witching  the  world  with  noble  horsemanship." 

Of  all  dandies,  the  negroes  in  Ameiica  are  the  most  in- 
tolerable ;  a  fashion,  to  come  up  to  their  idea  of  taste, 
cannot  be  too  outre ;  let  it  be  ever  so  ridiculous,  they 
adopt  it  immediately.  When  I  was  in  New- York  striped 
trowsers,  kid  gloves,  three  or  four  feet  of  guard  chain  for 
the  watch,  and  gold  headed  canes,  were  the  "  correct 
thing ;"  with  two-thirds  of  the  sable  countenance  con- 
cealed by  the  well-starched  collar  of  the  shirt.  On  Sun- 
day afternoon,  when  the  streets  in  all  the  cities  appear- 
ed entirely  given  up  to  the  African  world,  it  was  a  high 
treat  to  witness  the  switching  of  canes  and  important  strut 
of  the  one  sex,  and  the  affected  dangling  of  parasols  and 
reticules  of  the  other.  Familiar  nods  or  distant  bows  of 
recognition  were  acknowledged  with  all  the  air  of  people 
who  had  be(  n  rehearsing  their  parts  during  the  other  six 
days  of  the  week,  or  taking  lessons  from  the  manners  of 
their  masters'  visitors. 

Crossing  over  to  Hoboken,  on  the  9th  of  July,  I  took 
the  coach  and  proceeded  near  the  high  ground  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Hudson  to  the  small  village  of  Aqua- 
kinock,  and  thence  upon  a  rail-road  which  had  been  lately 
opened  to  the  flourishing  town  of  Paterson,  on  the  Pas- 
saic River,  sixteen  miles  from  New- York.  It  wanted 
an  hour  to  mid-day,  when  I  arrived  and  the  rain  pour- 
ing in  torrents  caused  the  dirty  streets  to  look  more  miser- 
able and  dull  than  even  New- York,  from  which  every 
one  was  hurrying  who  could  possibly  afford  means.  The 
driver  of  an  omnibus  came  across  the  river  in  the  steam- 
boat with  me,  and  had  his  entire  family  with  baggage 
stowed  within  and  without  his  carriage,  intending  to  re- 
main in  the  country  until  the  dreadful  pestilence  abated 
I  had  also  crossed  over  to  Paterson,  with  the  intention 
of  staying  there  for  a  few  days ;  then,  after  making  a 
short  tour  to  the  Pennsylvania  coal-mines  and  Wyoming, 
to  return  to  the  city,  trusting  that  the  inhabitants  would 
be  more  settled.  But  the  mtlancholy-looking  day  made 
me  wish  myself  back  again,  in  a  place  where,  whatever 


14D 


A  SUBALTERN'S  VURLOUOH. 


< 


Other  drawback  there  might  be,  I  could  at  least  lay  my 
hands  upon  a  book  to  pass  away  a  few  dull  hours.  After 
listening  by  the  hour  to  a  long  dissertation  upon  the 
Reform  Bill  from  a  stout,  one-legged  man,  I  encounter- 
ed another  unconscionably  long  story,  from  a  little  spare 
person,  about  hunting  and  "old  Kentuck,"  in  the  middle 
of  which  all  his  audience,  excepting  myself,  deserted 
him,  and,  betaking  themselves  to  their  brandy  and  water, 
gradually  dropped  off  one  by  one  to  their  respective 
homes.  At  last  even  I  left  my  chair,  where  I  had  been 
most  patiently  sitting  in  a  half  dose,  without  hearing  a 
single  word  the  Kentuckian  had  been  saying  for  the  last 
forty  minutes,  and,  yawning,  wished  him  good  evening, 
just  as  he  had  got  me  some  half  dozen  miles  up  the  Mam- 
moth Cave.  Thus,  having  lost  his  audience,  he  rose, 
and,  discovering  that  his  umbrella  was  gone,  said,  with 
an  air  which  appeared  almost  to  console  him  for  the  loss, 
"  Well,  I  guess  he  must  be  a  mean  fellow  who  would 
clear  off  with  it ;  for  it  was  but  a  mean  umbrella,  and  I 
don't  care  one  cent  about  it,  only  the  pole  and  shove-up 
are  good,  that's  a^ac."  As  I  was  on  the  point  of  retir- 
ing, a  man  entered  the  room  smiling  and  looking  as  if  . 
he  had  some  good  joke  to  impart.  I  therefore  determin- 
ed to  wait  a  fow  minutes  longer ;  but  he  only  whispered 
to  the  story-teller,  and  both,  laughing  heartily,  left  the 
house  together.  In  a  minute  or  two  came  another,  with 
the  same  important  countenance,  who  took  away  the 
landlord ;  and  immediately  afterwards  the  bar-keeper 
disappeared  in  the  same  mysterious  manner,  leaving  a 
little  girl  in  charge  of  his  department.  My  curiosity  was 
now  excited  to  the  utmost ;  so  laying  down  my  candle 
again,  although  it  was  still  raining  heavily,  I  followed 
him  out  into  the  dark  street,  and  down  it  for  some  dis- 
tance, until,  walking  up  the  steps  of  a  house,  he  opened 
the  door,  and  entered.  Seeing  a  crowd  of  people  inside 
wearing  their  hats,  I  also  stepped  in,  and  found  myself 
in  a  small  frame  room,  devoid  of  all  furniture,  excepting 
two  rough  chairs,  and  a  strong  greasy  table,  with  some 
benches  placed  against  the  walls,  from  which  were  suspend- 
ed lists  of  the  Newark  and  Hoboken  coaches,  steam- 
vessels,  lotteries,  the  comic  almanac,  and  other  placards. 


A   SUBALTERN  8   rURLOVOH. 


141 


ast  lay  my 
urs.  Ajfler 
upon  the 
encounter- 
little  spare 
the  middle 
f,  deserted 
and  water, 
respective 
[  had  been 
hearing  a 
for  the  last 
d  evening, 
)  the  Mam- 
e,  he  rose, 
said,  with 
or  the  loss, 
^ho  would 
3lla,  and  I 
i  shove-up 
It  of  retir- 
pking  as  if 
determin- 
whispered 
y,  left  the 
)ther,  with 
away  the 
)ar-keeper 
leaving  a 
iosity  was 
ny  candle 
followed 
some  dis- 
le  opened 
pie  inside 
nd  myself 
excepting 
vith  some 
suspend- 
es,  steam- 
placards. 


One  of  the  ricketty  old  chairs  was  occupied  by  an  elderly 
sharp  featured  man,  with  long  gray  hair,  brushed  so  as  to 
display  a  high  forehead,  and  with  a  pair  of  spectacles 
fitted  on  the  very  tip  of  his  nose,  which  he  took  ofTat  in- 
tervals of  a  minute  or  two,  and  looked  round  with  great 
dignity  upon  the  people  assembled.  Then,  after  taking 
the  circuit,  he  let  his  eyes  fall  upon  an  ill-dressed  man, 
apparently  an  artizan,  who  sat  m  the  other  chair  oppo- 
site, and  scrutinized  his  appearance  from  head  to  foot; 
while  he  himself  leaning  back  upon  his  own  seat,  and  ba- 
lancing on  the  hinder  legs  of  it,  had  his  feet  crossed  on  the 
top  of  the  table,  upon  which  lay  a  plentifully  thumbed  and 
dogs'-eared  volume,  some  writmg-paper,andan  ink-stand 
I  was  utterly  at  a  loss,  for  some  time,  to  discover  for  what 
purpose  so  many  silent  people  could  have  collected  to- 
gether, and  was,  at  last  relieved  from  my  suspense  by  the 
elderly  man  suddenly  rousing  himself,  and  saying,  with 
the  air  of  a  man  just  struck  by  some  bright  thought,  or 
as  if  determined  upon  some  great  undertaking,  ''State 
the  charge  against  the  prisoner ;"  and  for  the  first  time 
I  found  myself  in  the  presence  of  an  American  Justice  of 
the  peace.  The  man  who  had  so  coolly  taken  possession 
of  the  other  chair  was  charged  with  "paying  for  a  quan* 
tity  of  clams  (shell-fish,)  which  he  had  purchased  from  a 
little  boy,  with  a  counterfeit  dollar  note."  It  appeared, 
upon  the  evidence  of  a  host  of  witnesses,  that  he  had  been 
taken  from  a  tavern  wherehe  was  superintending  the  cook- 
ing of  the  clams,  and  that  his  confederates  had  made  their 
escape.  The  prisoner  protested  most  vehemently  against 
the  accusation,  asserting  his  innocence  :n  a  long  story, 
which  was  not  at  all  connected  with  the  charge,  and  was  in- 
terrupted momentarily  by  the  observations  and  witticisms 
of  the  by -slanders,  on  the  chance  of  his  being  lodged,  free 
of  expense,  in  good  apartments,  at  Sing-Sing  (the  State 
prison,)  and  joking  him  upon  the  loss  of  his  clam  supper. 
The  Justice  appeared  to  have  less  to  do  with  the  business 
than  any  one  else ;  until  some  one  called  out,  "  Let  the 
squire  cross-examine  him."  "Aye  do  cross-examine  him, 
squire,"  reiterated  fifteen  voices ;  and  the  squire.  acord< 
ingly,  peering  over  the  top  of  his  spectacles,  let  fly  a  vol- 
ley of"  Who  are  you  ?"  "  what's  your  trade?"  "  where  «r« 


142 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


yott  from?"  "what  brought  you  to  this  town?"  "  where 
did  you  get  that  note?"  "  what's  your  name  ?"  and  other 
questions,  with  such  amazing  volubility,  as  if  he  was  re- 
solired  to  confuse  the  prisoner  with  the  very  weight  of 
them,  concluding  by  saying,  "  Well,  I  move  that  this 
fellow  be  committed,  and  that  we  make  up  the  dollar  for 
the  boy."  Silver  coins  to  the  amount  were  immediately 
thrown  upon  the  table  by  the  by -slanders ;  and  the  squire, 
smiling  complacently,  threw  himself  back  in  his  chair, 
with  his  eyes  fixed  upon  the  ceiling,  quite  overcome  with 
the  exertion  of  the  prisoner's  cross-examination.  One  man 
remarked  that  "  he  had  better  dismiss  him,  for  the  dollar 
would  stand  the  state  in  200  dollars  to  prosecute."  The 
wooden-legged  man  also  took  a  most  prominent  and  active 
part  in  the  jokes  and  gibes  upon  the  prisoner,  snyiiig,  "You 
richly  deserve  three  years  in  Sing-Sing  I"  "  So  do  you,  if 
every  rogue  had  his  deserts,"  answered  the  man.  "  Very 
likely,"  said  the  first;  "and,  if  I  go  there,  I  shall  make 
special  application  to  be  put  in  the  same  coll  with  you, 
and  I  will  then  give  you  a  good  flogging."  Soon  after 
another  party  came  in  with  onoof  his  accomplices,  against 
whom  the  first  turned  evidence,  and  was  therefore  ad* 
mitted  to  bail ;  but,  not  being  able  to  furnish  it,  the  squire 
permitted  him  to  go  away  on  his  bare  promise  that  he 
would  return  the  following  day,  and  the  other  culprit  was 
delivered  over  to  a  guard  of  citizens,  who  volunteered 
their  services  for  the  night.  Although  throughout  the 
scene  was  ridiculous  in  the  extreme,  there  were  still  some 
traits  highly  creditable  to  the  Justice  and  by-standeri, 
osperially  in  the  spirit  with  which  the  collection  was 
made  for  the  boy,  and  the  readiness  with  which  they  all 
proffered  to  take  charge  of  the  prisoner  until  the  morn- 

The  town  already  contains  nearly  10,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  increasing  most  rapidly;  thereure  ot  present  nearly 
thirty  cotton-mills,  iron  and  brass  foundries,  in  the  upper 
part  of  it,  with  gardens  so  tastefully  laid  out,  and  the 
banks  of  the  river  kept  so  neat,  and  ornamented  with 
weeping  willows,  as  to  compensate  for  the  broken 
bridges  and  dirt  of  the  lower  part  of  the  town.  It  is 
cfltimated  that  each  new  mill  brmgs  an  increase  of  1000 


A  subaltern's   rURLOUOH. 


143 


I"  '•  where 
and  other 
he  was  re- 
weight  of 
i  that  this 
i  dollar  for 
imediately 
the  squire, 
his  chair, 
come  with 
One  man 
■  the  dollar 
ute"    The 
tand  active 
n»g,  "You 
0  do  you,  if 
m,  "  Very 
jliall  make 
with  you, 
Soon  after 
*cs,  aufainst 
ercfore  ad- 
the  squire 
se  that   he 
ulprit  was 
olunteercd 
ghout  the 
still  some 
-slanders, 
ction  was 
h  they  all 
the  morn* 

habitants, 
cnt  nearly 
the  upper 
and  the 
nted  with 
broken 
rn.  It  is 
e  of  1000 


to  the  population ;  and  two  more  were  building  when  I 
visited  the  place.  It  will  ere  long  be  the  Manchester  of 
those  parts,  and  one  of  the  largest  manufacturing  towns 
in  the  Union.  They  have  already  the  advantage  of  a 
rail-road  and  canal  to  transport  their  goods  to  New- 
York  and  Philadelphia ;  and  much  machinery  is  made 
for  exportation  to  the  southern  markets. 

The  Passaic  River  is  very  romantic  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  Paterson ;  but,  upon  inquiring  where  what 
are  called  the  *'  Grand  Falls ''  were  to  be  seen,  I  was 
much  disappointed  to  find  that  they  were  actually  in  sight 
and  very  unimportant,  the  stream  being  diverted  on  three 
levels  for  the  supply  of  the  mills.  There  were  but  about 
100  gallons  per  minute  falling  over  a  precipice  of  70  feet 
into  a  dark  and  narrow  gulf,  over  which  a  bridge  ho.! 
been  thrown.  Some  few  years  since,  an  American,  of  the 
name  of  Patch,  leaped  irom  a  spot  very  near  it  into  the 
chasm  beneath,  with  the  intention,  as  was  stated,  of  com- 
mitting suicide;  but,  finding  himself  without  injury  in  the 
water,  he  made  from  that  time  a  trade  by  taking  a  similar 
leap  from  most  of  tho  falls  in  the  States ;  and  at  length 
met  his  doatii.  in  182S),  by  striking  against  some  sunken 
rocks  at  the  falls  of  the  Clencsee,  in  the  town  of  Ro- 
chester. Tho  water  power  which  these  falls  aHbrd  is  st) 
valuable  as  to  produce  an  income  of  25,000  dollars  pel 
annum  to  the  |)roprietor. 

Having  ascertained  that  I  could  not  obtain  any  other 
conveyance  to  Easton.  on  niy  route  to  the  coal  mines,  than 
a  heavy  cnnol  boat,  which  would  not  arrive  in  less  thon 
three  days,  although  only  si.xty  miles,  I  returned  to  New- 
York,  notwithstanding  the  alarming  accounts  of  the  in- 
crcose  of  cholera,  on  the  Itith  of  July.  Tho  city  borea 
very  different  appearance  from  that  which  it  presented 
when  [  had  landed  ten  days  previously,  or  even  when  I 
had  departed  for  i'aterson.  At  that  time  only  the  timid 
had  fled  to  the  watering  places  on  tho  ffeacoast,  or  the 
Catskill  Mountains  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson.  Since 
thon  every  one  who  could  afford  means  oppearoA  to 
havo  followed  their  example.  The  public  gardens  and 
theatres  were  closed,  and  in  many  streets  entire  rows  of 
houses  were  deserted,  their  late  occuponts  having  fled 


144 


▲  StTBALTERN's   rCRLOVOH. 


Ih^i 


from  the  dreadful  pestilence.  A  steam-vessel  on  the 
Hudson  carried  away  700  passengers  at  one  time,  and 
yet  refused  to  take  many  who  were  anxious  to  escape. 
The  gay  shops  in  Broadway  were  closed  by  half  past 
eighl  in  the  evening ;  the  facetious  auctioneer  had  no 
audience;  and  only  a  solitary  individual  was  at  intervals 
seen  hurrying  down  the  street,  as  if  upon  some  urgent 
business.  The  bustle  of  Wall-street  had  almost  ceased 
and  tmdes'-people  of  every  description  complained  that 
bankruptcy  must  certainly  come  upon  them,  if  the  general 

Eanic  continued.  The  vast  shoals  of  travellers  who  had 
een  hurrving  towards  the  north,  to  escape  the  more  un- 
healthy climate  of  the  south,  were  met  here  by  a  more 
dreaded  enemy  than  even  the  yellow  fever,  ana  had  all 
returned  to  their  homes,  or  betaken  themselves  to  th« 
springs  in  Virginia.  The  hotels  were  comparatively 
empty.  The  earl  and  countess  Belruore  hud  arrived  from 
Jamaica  for  the  express  purpose  of  travelling  through  thu 
United  States ;  but  after  making  a  stay  of  four  or  five  days 
at  the  hotel,  and  one  short  excursion  up  the  tludson,  they 
proceeded  to  England  liy  the  first  packet  which  sailed. 
The  Americans,  1  had  frequent  occasion  to  observe,  are 
an  easily  excited  people,  and  even  destitute  of  that  moral 
courage  which  is  so  requisite  in  times  of  personal  or  na- 
tional calamity.  The  panic  and  excitement  upon  this 
occasion  were  much  augmented  by  the  daily  prints,  which 
not  content  with  merely  taking  notice  of  cases  in  round 
numbers,  mentioned  every  alarming  incident  they  could 

Eossibly  collect;  and  even  the  names,  the  streets,  the  num- 
er  of  ihe  house,  and  the  medical  men  who  attended  th« 
patients,  were  duly  inserted.  As  an  instance  of  the  extra- 
ordinary dread  entertained  of  the  rnalndy,  a  respectabltt 
printer  in  Philadelphia  comtnitttd  suicide  bv  taking  a 
quantity  of  laudanum ;  and  said  to  those  around  him,  who 
were  attempting  to  save  his  life,  that  all  eflbrts  would  b« 
fxuitli'tts.and,  if  the  physicians  prepared  an  antidote,  they 
could  not  make  him  take  it;  that  "he  had  heard  tha 
cholera  was  in  Uuebec,  and,  being  thoroughly  convinced 
that  it  would  spread  over  the  whole  continent  of  Arn»- 
rica,  he  had  come  to  the  determination  of  not  suffering 
an  attack  of  it  himself,  or  seeing  hii  wife  and  childrcu 


A  sitbaltern's  furlovoh. 


:4g 


sel  on  the 

)  time,  and 

to  escape. 

r  half  past 

er  had  no 

It  intervals 

I  mo  urgent 

lost  ceased 

ained  that 

he  general 

'8  who  had 

e  more  un- 

by  a  more 

nu  had  nil 

[ves  to  thtt 

iparatively 

rived  from 

hrough  thu 

)r  five  days 

idson, they 

lich  sailed. 

)serve,  are 

that  moral 

anal  or  na- 

upon  this 

iits,  which 

s  in  round 

they  could 

I,  thu  num- 

tunded  th« 

the  extra- 

spectablv 

tuking  a 

him,  who 

would  bt 

dote,  they 

leard  th« 

convinced 

of  Am»> 

RufTering 

childrcu 


die  before  him."  Unfortunately,  too,  a  great  schism  pre- 
vailed amongst  the  medical  men,  who  were  either  jealous 
of  each  other's  practice,  or  disagreed  in  the  views  they 
took  of  the  disease.  The  board  of  health  refused  to  pub- 
lish the  reports  of  cases  sent  in  by  an  eminent  practitioner 
in  the  city,  who  had  proceeded  to  Quebec  upon  the  first 
appearance  of  the  cholera  there,  to  ascertain  the  nature  of 
it.  This  so  incensed  him  that  he  withdrew  his  name 
from  amongst  the  members  composing  the  board  ;  and, 
others  refusing  to  make  any  returns,  an  order  was  issued 
by  those  in  power  that  any  medical  man  who  did  not 
make  a  return  of  cases  should  be  fined  forty  dollars.  It 
was  hoped,  too,  that  the  fear  of  this  penalty  would  act 
as  a  check  upon  the  quack  doctors  (or  steam  doctors,  as 
the  Americans  call  them,)  who  flocked  into  the  city  from 
all  quarters,  and  put  in  practice  the  aystem  from  which 
they  derive  their  name — hot-baths  and  cayenne  pepper 
for  every  complaint,  from  a  cold  and  sore  throat  to  the 
vellow-fever.     The  some  difltrence  of  opinion  pervaded 

yen  the  acts  of  Congress,  who,  ever  jealous  of  the  Pre- 
sident's authority,  could  not  come  to  any  decision  about 
appointin^y  a  day  of  fast  and  humiliation.  The  motion 
had  been  made  to  apply  to  tho  President  to  order  a  day ; 
but  it  was  rejected,  some  members  contending  that  the  Pre- 
sident had  no  right  to  order  a  fast,  and  that  the  observance 
of  one  was  optional  with  every  one.  The  President,  in  an- 
swer to  an  application  from  the  Committee  of  the  General 
Synod  in  Now- York,  for  the  appointment  of  a  general 
fast,  said,  "  I  am  constrained  to  declino  the  designation  of 
any  period  or  mode  as  proper  for  the  public  manifesta- 
tion of  this  reliance.  I  could  not  do  otherwise  without 
transcending  the  limits  prescribed  by  the  constitution  for 
the  President,  nor  without  feeling  thot  \  might  in  some 
degree  disturb  the  security  which  religion  now  enjoys  in 
this  country,  in  its  complete  separation  from  tho  political 
concerns  of  tho  general  government, 

"  It  is  the  province  of  tho  pulpits,  and  the  state  tribunals, 
to  recommend  tho  time  and  mode  by  which  the  people 
may  best  attest  their  reliance  on  the  protecting  orm  of 
the  Almighty  in  times  of  great  distress.' 

Tho  connnitteo  then  npj)lied  to  tho  Governor  of  the 

▼01.  I, — N. 


\ 


14« 


▲  BVBALTERN's  rURLOUOH. 


State,  who  replied,  *  *  *  *  "  As  fiisting,  humUi&- 
tion,  and  prayer,  are  religious  rites,  so  the  recommenda* 
tion  of  a  day  for  that  purpose  is  an  appeal  to  the  religious 
sentiments  of  the  community,  and  should,  in  my  opinion, 
proceed  from  an  authority  which  has  its  influence  over 

the  consciences  of  men,  rather  than  their  civil  obligations. 

•  ••«•• 

"  I  cannot  here  refrain  from  the  remark,  and  I  hope  it 
will  be  received  with  indulgence,  that  the  more  scrupu- 
loi&ly  the  religious  authorities  of  the  land  follow  the  indi- 
cations of  the  public  will,  as  pointed  out  in  her  constitu- 
tions, the  more  likely  will  they  be  to  have  that  influence 
which  is  essential  to  crown  with  success  their  labours  for 
the  melioration  of  the  condition  of  the  human  race." 

In  many  parts  of  the  town  the  streets  were  watered 
w'(h  chloride  of  lime,  in  which,  as  an  antidote,  great  faith 
was  placed.  Upon  every  subject,  the  Americans  divide 
themselves  into  numerous  parties,  all  differing  in  some 
trifle  from  each  other ;  upon  this  occasion  there  v/ere  con- 
tagionists,  non-contagionists,  contingent  contagionists,  in- 
fectionists,  and  non-infectionists.  There  were  many  who 
asserted  that  the  disease  had  its  origin  in  the  air,  and 
that  if  a  piece  of  raw  meat  were  suspended  at  a  certain 
height  it  would  immediately  become  putrid.  The  experi- 
ment was  actually  tried  at  the  mast-head  of  a.  ship  in  the 
harbour :  but,  upon  being  brought  down  again  in  a  few 
hours,  tne  expectations  of  the  most  sangume  upon  the 
subject  were  much  disappointed  in  finding  it  in  the  same 
state  as  when  put  up.  Others  looked  for  the  origin  of 
the  disease  from  the  earth — the  water — the  comet;  and  it 
was  even  gravely  asserted  that  the  sun  did  not  give  its 
customary  light.  There  were  some  who  would  not  eat 
meat,  anu  others  who  would  not  eat  vegetables;  some 
who  would  not  drink  any  thing  except  water,  and  others 
who  would  only  take  "anti-thoiera,*'  as  they  termed  bran- 
dy and  port  wine,  the  temperate  soothed  their  fears,  by 
crying  out  that  only  the  dissolute  and  dirty  would  fall 
victims  to  it,  and  every  post  and  tree  in  the  city  was  la- 
belled with  "Unit  dram-drinking  if  you  would  not  have 
the  cholera."  Those  who  had  been  in  the  habit  of  dram- 
drinking  were  at  a  loii  how  to  proceed ;  one  party  told 


▲  subaltern's  fvrlouoh. 


147 


some 


them  they  were  certain  to  contract  the  disease,  and  an- 
other assured  them  that,  if  they  were  to  abstain  suddenly 
from  their  former  habits,  there  would  be  no  hope  for 
them;  and,  at  all  events,  they  would  be  bad  subjects  for 
it,  when  attacked.  Some  were  for  clothing  warm;  but  an 
alarm  was  immediately  given,  by  the  opposite  party,  that 
excess  in  clothing  was  as  injurious  as  excess  in  drinking. 
It  was  no  wonder,  then,  that  nearly  100,000  of  the  inha- 
bitants fled  into  the  country,  and  many  of  them  out  of 
the  reach  of  medical  assistance  fell  victims  to  the  disease, 
which  they  might  probably  have  otherwise  escaped. 

The  second  evening  afler  my  return,  I  walked  down  to 
the  battery;  and  although  it  was  a  most  bewitching  scene, 
as  the  sun  set  mildly  and  beautifully  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  bay,  and  the  bright  moon  rose  majestically 
in  the  deep  blue  sky,  still  only  a  stranger  or  two  were 
seen,  leanmg  over  the  rails  at  the  edge  of  the  pier.  At 
last  I  caught  the  general  infection  of  fear  myself  (thouffh 
I  had  often  been  an  eye-witness  of  the  ravages  of  the 
disease  in  other  lands,  without  any  such  sensation,)  and 
the  reflection  that  if  I  were  attacked  by  it  I  might  be  car- 
ried off  to  some  public  hospital,  unknown,  and  almost 
uncared  for,  made  me  think  it  would  bo  more  prudent 
to  remove  to  a  healthier  part  of  the  country.  Curiosity 
alone  had  brought  me  to  New- York,  and  I  had  been 
there  a  fortnight  already  without  any  probability  of  being 
gratified  with  a  sight  of  any  thing  interestmg ;  two 
gentlemen,  whose  acquaintance  I  was  just  making,  were 
suddenly  carried  off  by  the  disease,  and  my  only  remain- 
ing friend  had  sailed  for  England:  I  therefore  determin- 
ed to  continue  my  tour,  and,  if  possible,  return  at  a  busier 
and  gayer  time. 


148 


A  subaltern's  fualouoh. 


yj 


■^.t      i«'/lw"-   lntsfl^P 


CHAPTER  X. 


The  flying  rumours  gathered  as  they  roU'd, 

Scarce  any  tale  was  sooner  heard  than  told ; 

And  all  who  told  it  added  something  new,  fitH&^i 

And  all  who  heard  it  made  enlargements  too ;  it 

In  ev'ry  ear  it  spread,  on  ev'ry  tongue  it  grew.  | 

Thus  flying  east  and  west,  and  north  and  south,  ^ 

News  travelled  with  increase  from  mouth  to  mouth. 

Pope. 


al 

sj 
al 

aJ 


Satire  lashes  vice  into  reformation. 


'r,u 


Drtdbn.  .. 


Mrs.  Trollope  states,  in  her  "  Domestic  Manners  of 
the  Americans,"  that  much  angry  feeling  was  excited 
throughout  the  United  States  by  the  appeaiance  of  Cap- 
tain Hall's  travels  in  that  country ;  probably  but  little 
imagining  that  she  herself  as  an  authoress  should  fifiv& 
such  umbrage  to  the  republicans,  and  that  the  gallant 
Captain's  works  should  sink  into  comparative  insignifi- 
cance before  her  lashing  pen.  It  was  during  my  resi- 
dency in  New- York  that  her  first  publication  was  re- 
printed, and  the  commotion  it  created  amongst  (he  good 
citizens  is  truly  inconceivable.  The  Tariflf  ahd  Bank 
Bill  were  alike  forgotten,  and  the  tug  of  war  was  hard, 
whether  the  "  Domestic  Manners,"  or  the  cholera,  which 
burst  upon  them  simultaneously,  should  be  the  more  en- 
grossing topic  of  conversation.  Atevery  corner  ofthestreet, 
at  the  tioor  of  every  petty  retailer  of  information  for  the 
people,  a  large  placard  mot  the  eye  with,  "For  sale  here, 
witli  platen.  Domestic  Manners  of  the  Americans,  by  Mrs. 
Trollope."  At  every  table  d'h6te,  on  board  of  every 
steam-boat,  in  every  stage-coach,  and  'v\  all  societies,  the 
first  question  was,  *'  Have  you  read  Mrs.  Trollope?"  And 
one  half  of  the  people  wou''  bo  seen  with  a  red  or  blue 
half-bound  volume  in  their  hand,  which  you  might  vouch 
for  being  the  odious  work ;  and  the  more  it  was  abused 
the  more  rapidly  did  the  printers  issue  new  editions.  1 
never  could  ascertain  the  reason  why  the  /  merican  edition 
appeared  without  the  name  of  its  publisher ;  whether  it 


^"i! 


A  SUBALTBRN's  rURLOUOH. 


149 


arose  from  the  fear  of  subjecting  himself  to  serious  eon- 
sequences  for  printing  a  work  which  spoke  so  unfitvour- 
ably  of  his  country,  or  that  he  was  ashamed  of  publicly 
acknowledging  the  preface,  in  which  he  laboured  to  prove 
that  Mrs.  Trollope  and  Captain  "All"  (as  he  was  &ce- 
tiously  pleased  to  write  the  name,  as  being  the  true  Eng- 
lish pronunciation)  were  one  and  the  same  person,— an 
opimon  which  soon  gained  ground,  and  I  was  assured  by 
many  intelligent  people  that  there  was  not  the  slightest 
doubt  but  "that  Captain  Hall  had  written  every  word  of 
it;  Mrs.  Trollope  might  probably  have  furnished  notes 
for  it,  but  certainly  nothing  more;  no  one  who  had  read 
the  two  works,  and  observed  the  great  similarity  of  ex- 
pression and  opinions,  could  for  a  moment  doubt  the 
author's  identity,  and  every  one  was  well  aware  that  he 
had  been  sent  out  by  the  Quarterly  Revi6w."  Never  were 
two  poor  authors  so  abused:  every  newspaper  for  two 
months  teemed  with  some  violent  remarks,  and  persona- 
lities, which  were  substituted  for  refutations,  thus  apparent- 
ly verifying  the  justice  of  the  saying,  that 

"Blunt  truths  more  mischief  than  nice  falsehoods  do;" 

nor  was  this  kind  of  criticism  confined  merely  to  editors 
of  daily  newspapers ;  but  even  people  who  had  some  pre- 
tensions to  literary  talent  fell  mto  the  same  error.  Mr. 
Dunlap,  in  his  late  history  of  the  American  stage,  confi- 
dently states  that  Captain  Hall  was  the  author  of  the  work 
in  question ;  and  Mr.  Paulding,  who  ranks  high  as  an 
author  amongst  his  countrymen,  in  his  late  novel  of  "West- 
ward Ho  I "  exerts  himself,  as  much,  as  possible,  to 
hold  up  Captain  Hall  to  the  ridicule  of  the  Americans, 
merely  because  he  differs  in  opinion  from  them;  forget- 
ting that 

"  *Tis  with  our  Judgments  as  our  watches,  none  ^ 

Go  Just  alike,  yet  euch  behoves  his  own." 

Though  the  extract  I  allude  to  is  long,  yet  I  transcribe 
it,  OS  serving  two  purposes ;  one  to  show  the  soreness  of 


160 


A  subaltern's  fvrlovoh 


the  Americans,  and  the  other  to  give  a  specimen  of  the 
Western  provincialisms. 

"Well,  then.  Captain,  if  he  v(ron'tsing,  suppose  you  tell 
us  another  story,"  quoth  Cherub  Spooney. 

"Ay,  do  now,  Captain;  tell  us  the  story  of  the  strange 
cretur  you  picked  up  going  down  the  river,"  said  an- 
other. 

"  Ah !  now  do,  Massa  Cappin  Sam,"  quoth  Blackey. 

"  Well,  I'll  tell  you  how  it  was.  We  had  hauled  in 
the  Broad-horn  close  ashore  to  wood;  wind  was  upstream, 
?o  we  couldn't  make  much  headway  any  how.  Bill  told 
the  nigger  to  cook  a  few  steaks  off  Clumsy — that  was 
what  we  called  the  bear  I  shot  the  day  before.  V^ell,  while 
we  were  a — woodmg — " 

"  That  story's  as  long  as  the  Mississippi,"  said  one. 

"  Shut  pan,  and  sing  dumb,  or  I'll  throw  you  into  the 
drink,"  exclaimed  Spooney. 

"Why,  I  heard  that  story  before," 

"  Well,  supposing  you  did,  I  didn't,  go  on  Cap- 
tain," 

"Well,  as  I  was  saying,  Spoon,  the  nigger — " 

"  I  tink  he  made  call  'um  gemman  of  colour,"  mutter- 
ed Blackey. 

"  The  nigger  went  to  cook  some  bear  while  we  were 
wooding,  so  that  we  might  have  something  to  go  upon. 
When  we  came  back,  what  kind  of  a  varment  do  you 
think  we  started  in  the  cane-brake?" 

'•  I  reckon  an  alligator,"  said  Blackey. 

"  Hold  your  tongue,  you  beauty,  or  you  shall  smell 
brimstone  through  a  nail  hole,"  cried  Spooney;  "go 
a-head,  so  a-head.  Captain." 

"  Well,  as  I  was  savmg,  we  started  the  drollest  varment, 

fierhans,  you  ever  did  see.  Its  face  was  covered  with  hair, 
ike  a  bull  buffalo,  all  but  a  little  place  for  his  eyes  to  see 
through.  It  looked  mighty  skeery,  as  though  it  thought 
itself  a  gone-sucker,  and  calculated  we  were  ffoing  to  eat 
it,  before  we  killed  it ;  but  we  carried  it  aboard  the  Broad- 
Korn,  and  took  compassion  on  the  |)oor  thing.  I  slapped 
It  on  the  back,  and  told  it  to  stand  on  its  hind  legs,  and  I 
wish  I  may  run  on  a  sawyer  if  it  didn't  turn  out  to  be  a 
live  dandy." 
"Had  It  a  tail?" 


A  SUBALTERN  S  FURLOUGH. 


11^1 


9n  of  the 

3  you  tell 

3  strange 
said  an- 

llackey. 
lauled  in 
tp  stream, 
Bill  told 
that  was 
ell,  while 

id  one. 
1  into  the 

on  Cap- 

'  muttei'- 

we  were 
go  upon. 
It  do  you 

lall  smell 
ey;    "go 

varment, 
tvith  hair, 
yes  to  see 
t  thought 
ing  to  eat 
le  Broad- 
I  slapped 
9gs,  and  I 
It  to  be  a 


"  I'll  wool  lightning  out  of  you,  Bill,  if  you  interrupt 
me." 

"  That's  actionable  in  New-Orleans." 

"  Ha,  ha,  whoop!  wake  snakes — goa-head,  go  a-head, 
and  don't  be  so  rantankerous,"  shouted  the  audienqe. 
"  I  swear,  if  he  once  gets  my  tail  up,  he'll  find  I'm  from 
the  forks  of  the  roaring  river,  and  a  bit  of  a  screamer," 
said  Captain  Hugg. 

"  Well,  go  a-head — go  a-head, — ^tell  us  about  the  dandy, 
— ha  I  ha  I  ha  I  I  should  like  to  have  seen  it  when  it 
stood  on  its  hind  legs — what  did  it  say  ?" 

"  Why,  I  asked  what  they  called  such  queer  things 
where  it  came  from,  and  it  said  Basil ;  and  that  the  Cap- 
tain of  the  steam-boat  nad  put  it  ashore,  because  it  insisted 
on  going  into  the  ladies*  cabin. — Well,  some  of  us  called 
it  summer  savory,  some  catnip,  some  sweet  Basil,  and  we 
had  high  fun  with  the  cretur,  and  laughed  till  we  were 
tired.  And  then  we  set  him  on  a  barrel  forked  end 
downwards." 

"  Yough !  yough  !  yough  I"  ejaculated  Blackey,  burst- 
ing into  one  of  his  indescribable  laughs. 

'•  No  laughing  in  the  ranks  there — throw  that  nigger 
overboard,  if  he  laughs  before  I  come  to  the  right  place, 
and  then  you  may  all  begin.  Well,  then,  I  began  to  ask 
him  all  about  himself,  and  he  told  me  he  was  a  gicat  tra- 
veller, and  that  he  had  been  so  far  north  that  the  north- 
star  was  south  of  him ;  and  then  he  asked  me  if  1  knew 
any  thing  of  navigation,  and  the  use  of  the  globes.  "  To 
be  sure  I  do,"  said  I,  "  aint  they  made  for  people  to  live 
in  ?"  Then  he  inquired  if  I  ever  heard  of  Herschel,  or 
Hisshel,  I  forgot  which,  and  I  told  him  I  knew  him  as 
well  as  a  squirrel  knows  a  hickory-nut  from  an  acorn." 

"  He's  dead,"  said  the  queer  cretur. 

"  No,  no,"  says  I,  "  that  won't  do,  there's  no  mistake 
in  Shavetail,  you  may  swear.  I  saw  a  pedlar  with  some 
splendid  sausages  made  of  red  flannel,  and  turnips,  go  by 
our  house,  and  I  changed  with  him  some  v/ooden  bacon 
hams.  He  comes  from  Litchfield,  where  Herschel  lived, 
and  did'nt  say  a  word  about  it.  Here  he  made  a  note  in 
his  book,  and  I  begun  to  smoke  him  for  one  of  those 
fellows  that  drive  a  sort  of  a  trade  of  making  books 


li 


IttS 


A  subaltirn's  fvrlovoh. 


about  old  Kentuck  and  the  western  country :  so  I  thought 
I'd  set  him  barking  up  the  wrong  tree  a  little,  and  I  told 
him  some  stories  that  were  enough  to  set  the  Mississippi 
a-fire ;  but  he  put  them  all  down  in  his  book.  One  of 
my  men  was  listening,  and  he  sung  out,  "  Well,  Sam, 
you  do  take  the  rag  off  the  bush,  that's  sartin ;"  and  I 
was  fearful  dandy  would  find  out  I  was  smoking  him, 
so  I  jumped  up,  and  told  Tom  a  short  horse  was  soon 
curried,  and  I'd  knock  him  into  a  cocked  hat  if  he  said 
another  word,  and  that  broke  up  the  conversation. 

"  Next  morning  we  stopped  to  wood  a  little  below 
New  Madrid,  and  the  dandy  who  seemed  one  of  the 
curiousest  creturs  you  ever  saw,  and  was  poking  his  nose 
every  where,  like  a  dog  smelling  out  a  trail,  went  with 
me  a  little  way  into  a  cane-brake,  where  we  met  a  woman 
living  under  a  board-shed,  with  four  or  five  children. 
Dandy  asked  her  if  she  was  all  alone ;  she  said  her 
husband  had  gone  up  to  Yellow  Banks  to  look  for  better 
land.  Then  he  wanted  to  know  what  she  had  to  eat, 
and  she  said,  nothing  but  sweet  pumpkins.  "  What,  no 
meat?"  said  he.  "  No,  nothing  but  sweet  pumpkins." 
"  Well,"  said  dandv,  "  I  never  saw  any  thing  half  so  bad 
as  this  in  the  old  countries,"  and  then  he  put  his  hand 
in  his  pocket,  and  gave  her  a  pickatlon.  "  Thank  you," 
said  she,  "  as  I  am  a  living  woman,  I  've  tasted  no  meat 
for  the  last  fortnight — nothing  but  venison  and  wild 
turkey."  The  d — 1  you  ha'int,"  said  Dandy ;  and  want- 
ed to  get  the  pickatlon  back  again. 

"  What  a  wild-goose  of  a  fellow,  not  to  know  that 
nothing  is  called  meat  in  these  parts  but  salt-pork  and 
beef.  He 's  a  pretty  hand  to  write  books  of  travels,"  said 
Spooney. 

"  I  wish  I  may  be  forced  to  pass  the  old  sycamore  root 
up  stream  twice  a  day,  if  I'd  give  the  Mississippi  navi- 
gator  for  a  whole  raft  of  such  creturs." 

"  But  what  did  you  do  with  him  at  last.  Captain?" 
said  another. 

"  Why,  I  got  tired  of  making  fun  of  the  ring-tail 
roarer,  and  happening  to  meet  the  steam-boat,  Daniel 
Boone,  Captain  Ijansdale,  coming  down  stream,  just  as 


•^" 


A  subaltern's  furlouoh. 


15S 


said 


she  had  smashed  a  broad  horn,  and  the  owner  was  sitting 
on  the  top  of  it,  singing, 

;i' '                   '*  Hail  Columbia,  happy  land, 
Ifla'intruin»drilbe .'» 

1  persuaded  the  Captain  to  let  the  Dandy  come  on  board 
again,  on  his  promising  to  keep  out  of  the  ladies'  cabin — 
So  we  shook  hands ;  and  "  I  wish  I  might  be  smash'd 
too  if  I  wouldn't  sooner  hunt  such  a  raccoon  than  the 
fattest  buck  that  ever  broke  bread  in  old  Kentuck." 

This  is  but  a  mild  specimen  of  the  bitter  feeling  which 
was  exhibited  against  the  gallant  Captain ;  and  I  sincerely 
give  it  as  my  opinion  that  neither  he  nor  Mrs.  TroUojje 
could  with  safety  make  their  personal  appearance  again 
in  the  United  States.  Never  was  there  so  extremely  sen- 
sitive a  person  as  brother  Jonathan.  He  lashes  himself 
into  a  violent  rage,  if  any  one  doubts  that  his  own  dear 
land  is  not  the  abode  of  all  that  is  estimable.  Mere  ap- 
proval will  not  do  for  him ;  it  must  be  the  most  unquali- 
fied approbation ;  and  he  thinks  he  is  in  duty  bound  to 
consider  any  national  reflection  a  personal  insult,  and  to 
resent  it  accordingly.  Thus  it  has  ever  been  in  his  wars 
with  England,  which  were  carried  on  with  greater  ani- 
mosity than  any  of  our  continental  struggles.  Thus, 
also  (to  descend 40  minor  affairs,)  can  alone  be  explained 
their  conduct  towards  Kean»  Anderson,  and  others,  where 
the  whole  nation  resented  what  was  only  a  private  ouarrel. 

Although  I  should  not  wish  to  identify  myself  with 
Mrs.  TroUope's  opinions  and  sentiments,  inasmuch  as 
she  evidently  is  a  writer,  who,  in  drawing  a  tolerable 
likeness,  has  given  a  broad  caricature  of  the  Americans, 
and  most  unjustly  impressed  those  who  have  not  visited 
the  United  States  with  the  imagination  that  no  gentlemen 
are  to  be  met  with  there,  yet  I  must  think  her  "  Domes- 
tic Manners"  will  do  good  amongst  a  certain  class  of 
people.  The  effects  had  even  begun  to  show  themselves 
before  I  quitted  the  country ;  and  I  record  the  following 
anecdote,  in  order  that,  if  tliese  poor  pages  ever  meet  the 
eye  of  the  witty  and  much  abused  authoress,  she  may 
congratulate  herself  on  having  already  worked  a  partial 


154 


A  subaltern's  rURLOVOH. 


reform.  When  Miss  Kemble  made  her  first  appearance 
at  the  Park  Theatre,  in  New- York,  the  house  was 
erowded  to  excess:  and  a  gentleman  in  the  boxes,  turn- 
ing round  between  the  acts  of  the  play  to  speak  to  some 
one  who  sat  in  the  bench  behind  him,  displayed  rather 
more  of  his  back  to  the  pit  than  was  thought  quite  ortho- 
dox. This  was  no  sooner  observed  than  a  low  murmur 
arose  amongst  the  insulted  part  of  the  audience,  which 
presently  burst  forth  into  loud  cries  of  '*  TroUope  I" 
'*  TroUope!"  "turn  him  out,"  "throw  him  over,"  &c., 
and  continued  for  several  minutes,  accompanied  by  the 
most  discordant  noises,  until  the  offending  person  assum- 
ed a  less  objectionable  position.  I  will  bear  witness  that  I 
have  frequently  seen  as  much  want  of  decorum  in  our 
theatres  as  I  ever  did  in  the  American ;  and  think  that 
our  bar-rooms  and  ordinaries  in  country  inns,  and  pas- 
sengers on  a  stage-coach,  might  with  as  much  justice  be 
taken  as  samples  by  which  a  foreigner  might  form  his 
estimate  of  English  gentlemen  as  the  inmates  of  steam- 
vessels,  canal-boats,  and  lodging-houses,  should  be  of 
American  gentlemen.  That  the  Americans  generally 
have  many  unpleasant  customs,  no  sensible  man  in  the 
country  will  deny ;  and  if  ringing  the  changes  upon  to- 
bacco chewing  and  smoking,  dram-drinking,  and  spitting, 
perpetually  in  their  ears,  will  be  of  any  service  towards 
working  a  reformation,  no  English  traveller  will  ever 
spare  them ;  and  no  man  could  have  more  strongly  ex- 
pressed his  abhorrence  of  such  filthy  habits  than  I  did 
during  my  sojourn  in  the  States. 

Though  the  long  extract  I  have  given  from  Mr.  Pauld- 
ing's work  should  be  considered  as  a  good  specimen  of 
western  provincialisms,  yet  not  an  American,  let  him  be 
Yankee  or  Southerner,  from  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  or 
the  Mississippi,  but  flatters  himself  that  he  speaks  more 
correct  English  than  we  illiterate  sons  of  the  mother  isle. 
If  you  ask  a  Canadian  in  what  part  of  the  globe  the  purest 
French  is  spoken,  he  will  reply,  "  upon  the  shores  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,"  and  assign  as  a  reason  for  such  being 
the  case  that  a  patois  was  introduced  in  the  old  country 
when  the  canaille  gained  the  ascendency  during  the  Re- 
volution of  1792,  and  that  the  correct  language  fitlling , 


▲  8UBAI.TVRN'S  FVRLOVOH. 


166 


tpearance 
3U8e  was 
zes,  tum- 
c  to  some 
ed  rather 
ite  ortho- 
murmur 
:e,  which 
rollope !" 
irer,"  &c., 
;d  by  the 
m  assum- 
ess  that  I 
im  in  our 
link  that 
and  pas- 
justice  be 
form  his 
of  steam- 
ild  be  of 
B^enerally 
lan  in  the 
3  upon  to- 
i  spitting, 
3  towards 
will  ever 
ongly  ex- 
han  I  did 


with  the  princes  and  nobles,  Canada  alone,  which  hat  not 
been  subject  to  any  such  convulsions,  retains  the  language 
in  its  original  purity.  Incredible  as  it  may  appear,  I  was 
frequently  told  by  casual  acquaintance  in  the  States, 
"  Well,  I  should  have  imagined  you  to  be  an  American, 
you  have  not  got  the  English  brogue,  and  aspirate  the 
letter  A,  when  speaking."  And  once  I  was  actually  told, 
by  a  fellow-passenger  in  the  stage  coach  from  Alexandria 
to  Winchester,  "  Really  I  should  never  have  thought 
you  to  be  from  the  old  country,  you  pronounce  your 
words  so  well,  and  have  not  got  the  ium-vp  note  /"  This 
same  "turn-up  nose,"  somewhat  approaching  to  the  pug, 
is,  I  find,  one  of  the  characteristic  marks  of  an  English- 
man in  American  eyes :  and  they  apply  the  term  "  Cock- 
ney" as  indiscriminately  to  us  as  ^fe  do  that  of"  Yankee" 
to  them.  Whatever  may  be  their  opinion  of  the  ma/mer 
in  which  we  natives  of  Great  Britain  speak  the  ^.lother- 
tongue,  I  can  affirm  that  the  nasal  twang,  which  Ame- 
ricans, of  every  class,  possess  in  some  degree,  is  very 
grating  and  disagreeable  to  the  ears  of  an  Englishman." 


'; .! 


■  1   ■•       :\K~..-  i>\ 


I-.      -  U 


It.  Pauld- 
jcimen  of 
Bt  him  be 
[udson  or 
aks  more 
Qther  isle, 
he  purest 
res  of  the 
ich  being 
1  country 
g  the  Re- 
«  foiling, 


1 1 


t      ^»    . 


. 

■.-•il 

'  ■    i 

..«    ,v. 

•  .  :*> 

Mi'.'. 

;■, 

^•■'t.<J* 

166 


A  SUBALTERN'S  FURLOUGH. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Lady  Charlotte.    I  want  none  of  your  explanations — (scornfully,) 

Garrick. 

Taking  advantage  of  a  bright  morning  sun,  so  that  1 
might  enjoy  a  view  of  surrounding  objects,  I  embarked 
on  board  the  Superior  steam-vessel,  on  East  River,  for 
New-Haven  in  Connecticut.  I  departed  from  New- York 
rather  sooner  than  even  the  unhealthy  state  of  the  place 
would  have  urged,  being  fearful  that  if  I  remained  there 
many  days  longer  an  opportunity  would  not  occur  of 
leavmg  the  city,  as  many  steam-vessels  had  discontinued 
making  their  usual  trips,  from  the  long  quarantine  imposed 
upon  thom  in  some  ports,  and  from  the  decrease  in  the 
number  of  passengers.  The  most  conspicuous  objects  on 
the  banks  of  the  East  River  are  the  two  large  stone  build- 
ings of  the  Almshouse  at  Bellevue,  which  contain  from 
1200  to  1500  inmates.  Amongst  them  the  cholera  was 
making  most  frightful  ravages  principally  owing  to  the 
impaired  constitution  of  thu  patients;  and  at  this  time 
upwards  of  thirty  ware  dying  daily. 

A  short  distance  further  a  penitentiary  is  erecting  tipon 
an  isluntl,  for  the  confinement  of  prisoners  uniler  sentence 
of  two  years  or  a  less  period.  It  is  a  very  narrow,  long, 
tasteless  piece  of  architecture,  with  two  wings  so  closely 
studded  with  innumerable  windows  (no  broader  than  the 
loop-holes  of  an  old  castle)  as  to  give  it  a  most  ungrncoful 
appearance.  Its  future  occupants  worn  busily  employed  in 
its  construction;  and  were  closely  watched  by  an  overseer, 
who  was  pacing  to  and  fro,  upon  a  lolly  wooden  platform, 
lest  any  one  should  attempt  to  escape  into  the  bushes, 
Opposite  to  the  um)er  end  of  the  island  are  some  hand- 
some country  resnlences  on  the  mainland  ;  and  also  the 
entrance  to  Hell-Ctate,  or,  ns  in  this  nge  of  refinement  it 
is  called,  ITurl-Clate.  It  being  ebb-tide,  the  walor  wuj« 
rushing  with  great  violence  over  the  Hog's  Hack  and 
Oridiron,and  boilingand  tossing  about  in  a  furious  trou- 
ble in  the  l*ot  and  Frying  Pan,  These  eddies  have  been 
most  aptly  named,  and  were  to  be  distinguishad  at  n  grent 


I. 


A   subaltern's  FURLOOOir. 


w 


(scornfully.) 

GfARRICK. 

1,  so  that  1 
embarked 
River,  for 
New- York 
f  the  place 
lined  there 
)t  occur  of 
scontinued 
tie  imposed 
?aso  in  the 
I  objects  on 
itono  build- 
ntain  from 
liolera  was 
I'ing  to  the 
this  time 

[•ting  upon 
r  sentence 
row,  long, 
so  closely 
r  than  the 
mgraccful 
1  ployed  in 
1  overseer, 
platform, 
e  bushes. 
)ine  hand- 
d  also  the 
nrmerit  it 
vntur  WHS 
Hack  and 
ious  trou- 
uivo  l)tfen 
atH  great 


distance :  they  act  in  part  as  a  guard  against  the  entrance 
of  vessels  into  the  harbour,  and  batteries  were  also  erect- 
ed some  few  years  since  on  the  point  of  land  which  form 
the  gate  to  make  the  pass  more  secure.  The  depth  of 
water  is  ample,  as  two  French  ships  of  war,  wh..n 
blockaded  by  the  British  off  New- York,  in  1810,  made 
their  escape  through  the  gate  into  the  sound.  It  is  a 
dangerous  and  intricate  navigation  for  sailing  craft  at 
all  times  of  tide,  and  part  of  a  small  vessel  was  visible 
above  water  when  we  ran  through,  and  was  lying  on  some 
huge  masses  of  rock  in  the  centre  of  the  gate.  It  is  in 
contemplation  to  excavate  a  canal  across  the  peninsula, 
from  Pot  to  HalU't's  Cove,  of  sufficient  depth  to  admit 
line-of-biit(le  ships;  the  estimated  expense  being  about 
150,000  dollars  for  a  canal  of  28  feet  in  depth  and  137 
in  breadth  at  the  top. 

After  running  thirty  miles  amongst  innumerable  is- 
lands, and  ki.'cping  along  the  continental  shore,  the  sound 
bocumo  so  broad  that  Long-lisland  was  but  indistinctly 
seen.  Having  touched  ut  several  small  towns,  we  arrived 
ut  Now-Ilaven,  eightysix  miles  from  New- York,  in  six 
hours  and  a  half  The  town  liaving  some  high  bluff  rocks 
rising  at  the  back  of  it,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  a  bay  of 
considerable  extent,  which  affords  an  excellent  shelter 
from  the,«ea,and  a  small  battery, dignified  with  theappella- 
tion  of  Fort  Hale,  occupies  a  point  about  two  miles  up  the 
bay  When  within  half  a  mile  of  the  pier,  the  steamer 
was  boarded  by  a  health  officer  who  oxprtssed  himself 
satisfied  with  the  Captain's  word  that  there  wore  no  cho- 
lera cases  on  board;  so,  being  poruiitted  to  land,  I  pro- 
ceeded to  an  hotel  in  a  la  rye  s(|uare  called  the  Orcen, 
about  tliree-(piartors  of  a  mile  in  circumference.  It  has 
three  cliuroh<*s  in  a  line  near  the  centre  of  ii,  and  at  a 
short  distance  in  another  line  a  sfale-liou.se  (which  is 
idniost  a  fac-simileof  the  l^hihulelphian  bank  and  a  Me- 
ihuditU  ehapel;  while  the  opposite  side  of  the  square  is 
occupied  by  the  large  brick  buildin;<8of  the  Yale  (yollege. 
The  s(puire  as  also  the  streets  nf  the  town  (which  contains 
1 1,000  inhabitants)  are  planted  v  ith  line  elm  trees,  which 
keep  them,  however,  exce«ulinglv  wet  and  dirty.  The  col 
lege  has  four  houses  for  the  lodging  uf  the  students,  two 

TOl.  1,— o, 


166 


▲   SUBALTERN  S   FURLOVOH. 


III 


m 


chapels,  and  a  Lyceum  (in  which  are  the  recitation  rooms) 
and  possesses  an  excellent  library.  It  was  commenced 
io  1700,  by  the  rccotfimevulation  of  eleven  of  the  principal 
ministers  of  neighbouring  towns,  who  had  been  appointed 
to  adopt  such  measures  as  they  should  deem  fit  for  the 
regulation  of  a  college.  Its  first  commencement  was  held 
at  Saybrook  in  1702,  and  removed  to  New-Haven  in  1717. 
The  Hon.  Elihu  Yale,  Governor  of  the  East  India  Com- 
pany, being  its  principal  benefactor,  his  name  was  bestow- 
ed upon  it.  It  is  considered  one  of  the  bust  colleges  in  the 
States,  and  from  four  to  five  hundred  young  men  study 
at  it. 

The  Green  was  used  as  a  burial-ijround  from  the  settle- 
ment of  the  town  in  1638  until  the  year  1700,  when  a 
cemetery  wiis  marke'd  out  in  the  north  western  suburbs, 
and  the  grave  stones  were  removed  there  in  1^21.  It  con- 
tains aboiit  twelve  acres  of  ground,  and  is  planted  thickly 
with  poplars  and  weeping  willows,  which  well  accord  wito 
the  numerous  obelisks  and  columns  of  black  and  white 
marble  that  distinguish  the  graves. 

I  never  felt  the  inconvenience  of  the  small  bed-roomM  in 
American  hotels  so  much  as  at  the  one  in  New- Haven  ; 
mine  was  only  10  feet  by  7,  and  the  door  of  tlie  adjoining 
room  closed  upon  the  sumo  post  as  that  ( ('  mine.  I  wa« 
sitting  studying  the  travelliTs'  map,  in  rather  a  dishabille, 
having  returned  heateil  from  a  lonjLf  walk,  when  1  heard 
a  Toico  at  my  door  say, "( .'harlcs,  Charlen,  get  up  I"  while 
a  person  m  the  next  room  muttered  sotmtliinf;,  ina  half- 
waking,  hulf.sleeping  tone  of  voice.  The  oonunand  vrnn 
again  repeated,  with,  "  May  I  come  in  V  and  a  knock 
at  my  door.  "  Yes  I"  said  the  voice  in  tlie  next  room 
My  door  was  now  op«'ned  half  an  inch,  while  1  sal  in 
aniazement,  wondering  what  would  next  tippenr.  "  Arc- 
you  Hslecp  ?"  said  the  voice:  "  No!"  an.swrrcd  ilie  next- 
room  occupant.  At  this  moment  my  door  (lew  u\>v\\,  and 
diicovered  thrre  ladies  staiuiing  at  the  miranct-  A  tall 
eldorly  one,  the  mother  of  the  other  two,  surveyed  me 
with  a  most  haujjhty  frown  (which,  tln»ii;.jh  n(it  at  all  inv 

£  roving  the  natuml  Ix  auty  of  her  dark  countenance,  would 
aTO  been  invaluable  to  a  tragedy  (pieen.)  hh  1  uujttcred 
aomothing  about  "u  mistake."     AAer  darting  anolhei 


\ 


A  SOBAXTERN's  rORLODOH 


160 


on  rooms) 
tnmenced 
principal 
appointed 
(it  for  the 
was  held 
n  in  1717. 
idia  Com- 
as bestow- 
ges  in  the 
lien  study 

the  settle- 
8,  when  a 
1  suburbs, 
SI.  It  con- 
ed thickly 
:cord  witn 
and  white 

J- rooms  in 

w- Ho  VCD  ; 

ndjoinin/^ 

10.      I  WM 

iishahillc. 
n  1  heiird 
pi"  while 

inn  half- 
iniind  vrut 

u  knock 
(!xt  room 
0  1  sat  in 
ir     "  Arc- 

I  ho  next- 

i'|M<ii,  nnd 

•      A  tall 

K'yrd    me 

at  all  iiii- 
ice,  would 

unitlcnd 
{  another 


jflance,  which  spoke  volumes,  at  me,  she  flung  the  door 

▼iolently  to  again,  saying,  "  you  are  not  Mr. ,  so  why 

did  you  speak.  Sir?"  The  door  was  just  closed,  when  I 
heard  the  next-room  voice  again ;  and,  after  a  few  ques- 
tions, the  lady,  discovering  her  mistake,  said  that  "  Mr. 
——wished  to  show  them  the  beauties  of  New-Haven," 
and  descended  the  stairs  again  most  majestically,  one  of 
the  younger  voices  saying,  "  You  made  a  mistake  mam- 
ma ; '  the  answer  of  the  indignant  lady  I  could  not  dis- 
tinctly overhear,  but  was  right  glud  to  get  rid  of  her  up- 
on any  terms. 

The  morning  after  my  arrival,  IwtJ  .ed  o\it  todiehiffh 
bluir  rocks  behind  the  town,  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the 
cave  in  which  the  rf;gicid<;  judges, — Whalleyand  Goffe, 
-— secreted  themselves  for  some  years,  previous  to  1604, 
having  escaped  from  England  at  the  Restoration,  when 
ioveral  of  the  judges  upon  the  trial  of  Charles  I.  were  tried 
and  executed.  They  eluded  the  search  of  the  colonists, 
and  their  phice  of  refuge  would  probably  have  remained 
anknown  but  for  tin;  chance  discovery  of  it  by  some 
Indians ;  when,  finding  themselves  no  longer  in  safety, 
they  removed  to  a  small  village  si.xty  miles  higher  up  the 
Connecticut  river,  and  lived  in  the  cellar  of  a  clergyman's 
bouso  for  upwards  of  fifteen  years,  M'here  the  former  died 
and  was  buried;  Colonel  Hi  xwell,  another  of  the  judges, 
had  joined  them  in  their  last  place  of  conc,(;alment,  shortly 
after  their  arrival  at  it.  After  vainly  n.-'cending  the  hill 
throe  times  successively  i»  search  of  the  cave,  with  di- 
rections froni  those  wlio  either  knew  or  pretended  to 
know  its  locality,  1  was  obli<r»^'d  at  last  to  give  it  up.  U 
was  described  to  me  as  being  formed  by  two  rocks  which 
had  fullnn  together,  upon  one  of  which  was  the  following 
vnacription : 

••  OppoHiiion  to  lyrnnts  in  obiMlunf:  to  Ood." 

Between  two  and  three  miles  from  the  town,  there  is  a 
musket  mnitufactory,  established  by  Mr.  Eli  Whitney, 
a  government  contractor,  on  the  banks  of  a  small  stream 
which  empties  itself  into  the  Dragon,  n  fine  winding  river 
with  low  banks  and  rich  nult  mcudows  on  its  margin,  and 


160 


▲   SUBALTERN  8   FURLODOH. 


rather  nenrer  the  town  is  a  pretty  mansion,  the  residence 
o(  Mr  Hillhouse.  The  frame-houses  on  the  outskirts  of 
New-Haven  are  distinguished  for  neatness,  and  on  the 
whole,  it  may  be  considered  one  of  the  handsomest  towns 
ia  the  States. 

Leav*  ig  New-Haven  in  one  of  four  coaches,  filled  with 
passerigfers  whohad  made  their  escape  from  New- York, 
w<?  tr.  v(  !  d  rapidly  over  a  tolerably  good  road  to  the 
pretty  iitno  town  of  Meriden,  which  has  several  block-tin 
manulactories  in  its  vicinity;  and  thence  to  Berlin,  along 
itraggliny  town,  joven  miles  iUrthcr ;  we  were  but  fifty 
minutes — quite  an  era  in  American  driving.  It  was  very 
evident,  from  the  conchman's  nonchalance,  that  we  v/ero 
now  in  the  genuine  Yankee  country.  One  of  the  gentle- 
men, an  inside  pas.songer,  told  him  to  moimt  his  box  and 
move  on,  as  he  was  loitering  at  a  tavern  door,  smoking  a 
cigar,and  conversinij;  ijuittly  n  iiii  a  brother  whip,  but  was 
answered  with  an  air  of  the  most  perfect  indifference,  as 
follows  : — *'  Don't  be  in  such  a  hurry ;  we  take  it  easy  in 
this  part  of  the  world,  I  guess ;  and,  1  declare,  it  ain't  four 
o'clock  yet — that's  a  fac."  But  I  acquit  the  man  of  inten 
tional  rudeness,  as  I  sat  on  the  box  with  him,  nnd  found 
him  both  civil  nnd  oblij^ing,  pointing  out  every  object 
of  interest  as  wo  went  along  ;  and,  during  my  triivoLs 
oAerwards  of  many  hundreds  of  miles  by  the  coaches, 
I  never  found  them  otherwise.  Upon  first  landing  in 
tlio  country,  such  roughne&s  of  manner  is  mistaken  for 
inaolence. 

In  England  we  are  apt  to  designatr  all  A  noricnns  as 
Yankees,  whether  they  are  born  undertho  burning  sun  of 
Louisiana,  or  frozen  up  five  months  in  the  year  on  tho 
ihores  of  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  '''he  name,  correctly 
ipeaking,  is  applicable  only  to  the  native  of  the  NeW' 
Lngland  States,  a  very  small  portion  of  the  Union  The 
southern  States  call  all  their  countrymen  who  re.sidoporth 
of  the  Potomac  Yankees.  The  middle  States,  including 
New- York,  Maryland,  i*ennsylvania,&c.,jiush  the  odious 
a|jpellation  oif  their  shoulders  on  to  their  more  northern 
brethren,  the  natives  of  that  part  of  tlie  country  lying  to 
tho  east  of  the  river  Hudson;  while  they,  not  lK>ing  ablu 
to  put  it  upon  the  New-Brunswickers,  whu  havo  tbfir 


residence 
itskirta  of 
d  on  the 
sat  towns 

illed  with 
iw-York, 
ad  to  the 
block-tin 
in,  a  long 
but  fifty 
was  very 
we  v/ero 
he  gentltt- 
3  box  and 
niokingfl 
[•).  but  was 
ironce.  as 
it  easy  in 
niii't  four 
n  of  intcn 
ind  found 
ry  object 
\y  truvoLs 
'  coaches, 
indiiig  in 
if  a  kin  for 

-ricans  hh 
int^sun  of 
'11  r  on  thu 

correctly 
llio  Now- 
licin,  'I'hf 
si(lei»orth 
including 
1  bo  odious 

northern 
V  lying  tu 
lM)ing  ablu 
mvQ  their 


A   SUBALTERNS    PVRLOUOH, 


16t 


own  proper  by-name,  make  a  virtue  of  necessity,  and  wear 
the  title  with  a  good  grace,  frequently  prefacmg  the  con- 
versation with  '*  We  Yankees  are  a  curious  'quisitive 
set,  ain't  we?"  And  (that  being  granted)  make  a  dead 
point  at  all  your  secrets.  Knickerbocker  tells  us  that 
"the  name  of  Yankies,  which  in  the  Mais-Tchusaeg 
(or  Massachusett  language)  signifies  silent  men,^^  was  a 
waggish  appellation  bestov\  ed  by  the  aborigines  of  the 
land  upon  the  first  settlers,  who  kept  up  such  a  joyful 
clamour,  for  the  space  of  one  whole  year  after  their  arrival 
in  America, "  that  they  frightened  every  bird  and  beast  out 
of  the  neighbourhood,  and  so  completely  dumb-founded 
tertain  fish,  which  abound  on  their  coast,  that  they  have 
been  called  dumb  fish  ever  since."  Other  authorities  say, 
it  is  a  corruption  of  the  word  "  English."  The  Yankees 
(iifTer  much  in  personal  appearance  and  disposition  from 
the  southerners  :  the  latter,  like  their  climnti',  are  fiery, 
warm-hearted,  and  generous,  and  display  a  greater  re- 
spect for  the  customs  of  the  mother  country  than  the 
former,  who  are  cool  spoculo.tors,  intent  upon  gain  alone. 
But  little  good-will  exists  between  these  two  portions 
of  the  Union,  their  interests  in  mercantile  matters  so 
directly  clashing,  and  what  (like  the  Tariff)  is  a  safeguard 
to  the  manul'uctures  of  the  nortii  is  little  better  than  ruin 
to  the  south.  I  thought  that  the  sotithornor  had  generally 
a  fresher  colour,  and  was  of  a  stouter  habit  of  body,  than 
the  Yankee,  who  is  well  described  in  the  words  of  his 
own  national  Melody : — 

••  A  Ya»knc  boy  is  trim  tuul  tall, 
And  never  over  I'm,  sir, 

•  ••«•« 

Ho'a  nlwtiym  out  on  trniiiiit^-dny, 

CommciH'omrni,  (»r  rlcctiim; 
At  truck  nnil  inulc  h<'kuow»iho  wny 

Orthrivuij[  to  peril  f.tiiiti. 

Yiuilu'c  JuDille  dundy,"  &c. 

Having  gained  an  umiMcnce  four  miles  from  Hartford, 
we  hud  a  magnificent  view  of  the  town  with  its  numerous 
I'oines,  the  t  nssinir  sails  upon  the  Connecticut  River,  and 
the  light  yellow  corn  fields  cuvoring  the  wliulo  eitcnl  of 


'Vi 


16» 


A  subaltern's  furlough 


1% 


i 


(he  valley  toa  range  of  forest-crowned  hills,  twenty  mile? 
distant.  Passing  the  Insane  Asylum,  a  plain  but  neat 
building  on  the  outskirts  of  the  town,  we  drovp  up  m  thf 
City  Hoiol,  situated  in  a  small  squan^  opp  ;snc  the  State 
House,  and  kept  by  a  most  attentive  l.indlord. 

'  had  but  just  stepped  off" the  coach.  ?ii>ds»if  ri  my  bac'" 
gage  fairly  housed,  when,  hearing  drains  at  a  dif,iauoe,  I 
walked  to  the  corner  of  the  stro«>t,  and  .^aw  the  students 
of  the  collugH.  between  sixty  und  seventy  in  number, 
etjuipped  asrir.'hers,  vvitii  light  green  frocks,  white  trow- 
ilers,  green  boimets,  and  ostrich  feathers,  inarching  dt  vn 
it;  their  olHcors  distinguished  by  wearing  a  sword  and 
sasli.  The  whole  body  had  a  very  neat  and  .striking  ap- 
peal mce;  each  archer  carried  i  lou'v  bow  \x\  his  ii\  u\,  und 
a  quiver  of  arrows  at  his  back.  1  could  huv\!  almost  fan- 
ci.d  myseli  in  the  Forest  of  Arden,  or  Merry  Sher- 
wood, insiead  of  in  one  of  the  largest  cities  in  the  Unit- 
ed States,  whore  the  very  last  si y, lit  I  should  have  ex- 
poclud  would  havG  been  a  company  of  archers  in  Lin- 
coln Green. 

During  the  night  an  alarm  of  fire  was  given,  which  im- 
mediately set  every  bell  in  church  a»id  chapel  ringing, 
anda  night-cupped  head  was  protruded  fromevery  window 
in  the  street,  vociferatii^f  "Fire!  Fire!"  so  loudly  that 
I  at  first  conceived  it  must  be  in  the  hotel,  and,  but  half- 
awake,  sprang  out  of  bed  in  double-quick  time,  whereas 
it  was  quite  at  the  other  extremity  of  the  town.  The 
engines  rolled  and  thundered  over  the  rough  pavement 
in  quick  succession,  and,  instead  of  being  drawn  by  hor- 
ses, men  and  boys  who  volunteered  there  services  for  the 
mere  sake,  I  believe,  of  increasing  the  uproar,  were  yok- 
ed to  them ;  while  the  superintendants,  who  continued 
shouting  through  their  long  tin  trumpets  to  urge  them 
on,  produced  a  most  hideous  noise,  a  "clangor  tubarum," 
which  would  have  broken  the  charm  of  the  Seven  Sleep- 
ers themselves,  or  aroused  the  giants  from  any  on- 
chanted  castle  in  Christendom.  Thanks,  however,  to 
my  scaling  the  hills  at  Now-llaven,  I  was  soon  again  in 
fi  sound  slumber. 

The  following  day  being  Sunday,  I  attended  service  at 
Ihi)  Protestant  Episcopal  Church,  which  was  the  finest 


f,^ 


■"^ 


A    SUBALTERN  S    FURLOUGH. 


103 


specimen  of  solid  architecture  I  had  seen.  Being  built 
of  a  dark  coloured  stone  in  imitation  of  the  Gothic  style, 
it  already  possessed  a  venerable  and  antique  air,  which 
the  brick  churches  and  white  painted  wooden  towers  will 
not  acquire  in  less  than  a  century.  The  tower  was  not 
finished,  but,  when  carried  to  the  height  intended  it  will 
become  a  great  ornament  to  the  town,  and  a  monument 
of  the  spirit  of  the  congregation,  who  erected  it  entirely  by 
private  subscription.  Most  of  the  American  churches  have 
their  towers  at  the  eastern  end,  which  is  a  great  delras- 
lion  to  their  interior  beauty,  from  not  having  the  large, 
light,  chancel  window,  which  is  found  in  all  English  re- 
gious  edifices;  and  none  of  them  possesses  that  air  of  so- 
lidity without,  or  solemn  grandeur  within,  which  distin- 
guishes the  ecclesiastical  buildings  of  the  old  world.  The 
inhabitants  of  Hartford  appear  strictly  attentive  to  their 
religious  ob.servances.  There  are  nine  or  ten  churches 
to  8500  inhabitants ;  and,  on  walking  out  in  the  afternoon, 
there  was  literally  not  one  person  to  be  scon  in  the  streets. 
Feeling  ratbor  ashamed  at  being  apparently  the  only  ab- 
sentee from  divine  service,  I  proceeded  a  short  distance 
out  of  the  town  to  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  which  was 
the  first  establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  States,  and  is 
partly  conducted  by  a  gentleman  who  has  tlie  missfortune 
to  be  atHicted  himself  in  the  same  manner.  Ttc  building 
is  a  very  extensive  one,  situated  on  an  rminence  overlook- 
ing the  town,  and  generally  contains  from  sixty  to  seven- 
ty inmates,  it  was  a  lovely  afternoon,  and  as  I  sat  upon 
tnegrjiss,  gazing  upon  the  town  and  river  beneath,  whence 
neither  tho  hum  of  voices  nor  the  sound  of  any  one 
stirring  arose,  and  not  a  living  being  was  even  to  be  seen 
iu  )ssing  the  long  straight  streets,  or  standing  at  a  door 
or  window,  1  thought  I  had  never  before  seen  a  day  so 
truly  sot  anart  as  u  day  of  rest,  nor  one,  1  would  believe, 
so  strictly  Kept. 

In  Dctober,  1087,  Sir  Edmund  Andross,  (lovernor  of 
the  Now-Engla».d  States  (who  committed  so  many  arbi- 
trary acts  during  his  administration,)  proceeded  to  Mart- 
ford  with  a  detacliment  of  troops,  and,  entering  the  House 
of  Assembly  when  in  Session,  demanded  the  Charter  of 
Connecticut,  declaring  the  Colonial  Uovernment  to  b« 


104 


i    SUBALTKRM  S   FURLOTTOH. 


deposed ;  the  Assembly  protracted  the  debates  till  even- 
ing, when  the  Charter  was  laid  upon  the  table,  and,  at 
a  preconcerted  signal,  the  lights  being  extinguished,  a 
Captain  Wadsworth,  seizing  the  Charter,  sprung  out  of 
the  window,  and,  under  cover  of  the  dark  night,  secreted 
it  in  the  hollow  of  an  oak,  where  it  lay  concealed  for 
ieveral  years,  until  the  accession  of  William,  Prince  of 
Orange,  to  the  throne  of  Great  Britain,  when  the  Colo- 
nists resumed  their  Charter,  which  continued  in  force  until 
1818,  when  they  adopted  a  new  constitution.  The  old 
House  of  Assembly  is  still  pointed  out  in  rear  of  the  Epis- 
copal Church,  and  the  Charter  Oak  retains  its  fine  broad- 
spreading  branches  in  front  of  the  pleasure-grounds  of 
Mr.  Wyllis,  at  the  southern  outskirts  of  the  town.  The 
Connecticut  River,  on  whoso  right  bank  the  town  stands, 
ic  about  300  yards  broad,  and  connected  with  the  largo 
manufacturing  village  of  East  Hartford,  one  mile  distant, 
by  a  bridge  of  seven  arches,  at  which  the  sloop  naviga- 
tion ceases.  The  town  would  be  a  very  handsome  one,  if 
a  little  more  attention  were  paid  to  the  cleanliness  of  the 
streets ;  but,  like  most  American  towns,  the  dirt  was  six 
inches  deep  in  them.  Grass,  rank  docks,  and  other 
weeds,  were  growing  on  every  side  of  the  State  House 
and  one  half  the  square,  which  was  cut  up  in  ejetj  di- 
rection,  after  a  heavy  shower  of  rain,  by  deep  ruts  and 
innumerable  water-courses. 


A   SDBALTERN  d    FURLOUGH. 


1« 


CHAPTER  XII. 


The  Lacedemonians,  forbidding  all  access  of  strangers  into  their 
eoasts,  are,  in  that  respect,  deservedly  blamed,  as  being  enemiee  to 
that  hoepitality  which,  for  common  humanity's  sake,  all  the  natiom 
QU  earth  should  embrace. 

HOOKBR. 

Why  must  I  Afric's  sable  children  see 
Vended  for  slaves,  though  formed  by  Nature  free, 
The  nameless  tortures  cruel  minds  mvcnt. 
Those  to  subject  whom  Nature  equal  meant  ? 

Sa?aob. 

The  whole  course  of  hit  argumentation  comes  to  nothing. 

Adduob. 


Proceeding  in  the  coach  from  Hartford  across  the  Con- 
necticut River,  we  passed  over  an  undulating  country  to 
Mansfield,  twenty-four  miles  distant,  where  a  silk  factory 
has  been  lately  established.  Much  silk  in  grown  in  tho 
vicinity  of  the  vil'ige,  the  worms  being  kept  in  long  shedi 
neatly  arranged  with  shelves;  and  the  mulberry-trees  in 
every  direction  were  laden  with  the  youn;,'  guardians  of 
the  insects  picking  the  leaves.  From  this  place  we  en- 
tered a  more  hilly  country,  the  face  of  which  was  densely 
covered  with  rocks  and  large  stones.  Where  fields  had 
been  cleared,  they  were  not  more  than  three  or  four  acres 
m  extent,  enclosed  with  stone  fences,  and  for  forty  miles 
the  scenery  much  resemMed  many  parts  of  the  Peak  of 
Derbyshire.  Manufactories  of  various  kinds  were  scat- 
tered thickly  up  in  every  stream;  and  at  the  pretty  littlo 
village  of  Scituate,  a  very  extensive  comb  establishment, 
employing  upwards  of  100  workmen,  had  been  lately 
opened  with  every  prospect  of  success.  Tho  State  of 
Connecticut,  though  possessing  a  soil  generally  fertile, 
increases  in  the  numnur  of  its  inhabitants  more  slowly 
than  any  other  in  tho  union,  thirty  years  only  giving  an 
addition  of  38,000  piople.  This  has  arisen  from  so  many 
of  the  young  men  migrating  to  the  western  regions,  it 
being  said  that  this  state  and  the  neighbouring  one  of 
Massachusetts  send  a  greater  proportion  across  theAllt* 


166 


1.   STTBALTIRn's   rCRLOUOH. 


ghany  Mountains  than  any  other.  AfteT  a  tedious  journey 
of  fifteen  hours,  we  arrived  at  Providence,  pleasantly  si- 
tuated on  both  sides  of  the  river  of  the  same  name.  On 
the  eastern  bank,  it  is  buih  at  the  foot  of  a  range  jdC 
heights  which  run  parallel  with  the  stream,  and  upon  the 
summit  of  them  are  the  two  large  tasteless  buildings  of 
the  Brown  University.  An  Englishman's  ideas  of  a  col- 
lege are  associated  with  cloisters,  antique  piles,  and  black- 
lettered  volumes,  and  he  would  fix  the  seat  of  the  genius 
of  learning  in  some  venerable  pile  of  building  which  pos- 
sessed an  air  of  grandeur.  FIc  could  scarcely  reconcile 
to  himself  a  four-storied,  red-painted,  brick  house  as  her 
abode;  and  would  pardon  her  for  taking  alarm  and  fleeing 
from  such  a  spot,  where  too  her  votaries  are  distinguished 
by  no  classical  garb.  I  believe  it  is  rather  the  case  with 
this  College,  which  does  not  bear  so  high  a  name  as  that 
at  Hartford  or  New-Haven,  or  Cambridge ;  but,  of  all  the 
public  buildings  in  America,  I  thought  the  colleges  wer« 
trhe  most  tasteless. 

Steam-vessels  and  sloops  navigate  the  river  up  to  the 
bridges,  which  connect  the  two  towns ;  where  the  stream 
IS  cpnsiderably  contracted  by  the  piers  which  have  been 
thrown  out,  but  immediately  above  them  it  expands  again 
into  a  fine  cove  or  bay  of  half  a  mile  in  width,  with  neat 
houses  encircling  it.  The  town  containing  between  16,000 
and  17,000  inhabitants  is  a  manufacturing  place  of  consi<- 
derable  importance,  and  printed  calicoes  of  very  durable 
•olours  are  struck  off  In  the  cotton  works  many  very 
young  children  are  employed  ;  but  there  were  proposi- 
tions (as  in  England^  by  Mr.  Sadler)  to  limit  the  number 
of  working  hours.  At  Pawtuckct,  four  miles  from  the 
town  on  the  Seekhonk  River,  there  are  twelve  cotton, 
and  a  variety  of  other  mills.  1  walked  there  over  the  mo*t 
passable  road  I  had  as  yet  seen,  and  saw  many  wagons 
laden  with  the  raw  material,  which  had  been  landed  at 
Providence,  on  their  way  to  the  flourishing  manufacto- 
ries. A  largo  new  Almshouse  is  situated  upon  the  same 
range  of  hills  as  the  College,  built  by  the  bequest  of  Mr. 
Dexter,  a  second  Mr.  Girard,  who  also  bequeathed  an 
extensive  farm  iu  the  vicinity  of  the  town  for  some  other 
lihuritable  purpose,  and  a  fine  plot  of  land  to  be  used  as 


k  80BALTERN  S    tURLOroH. 


167 


a  public  parade  ground.     The  town  is  the  most  exten- 
sive one  m  the  State  of  Rhode-Island,  and  was  first  set- 
tled in  1636,  by  Roger  Williams,  a  minister  of  Salem  in 
Massachusetts,  from  which  colony  he  had  been  banished 
on  account  of  heretical  opinions  ;  the  person  who  was 
appointed  to  dispute  with  him  before  the  general  court 
being  unable  to  convince  him,  he  was  sentenced  to  depart 
out  of  the  jurisdiction  within  six  weeks,  and  removed 
with  his  family  to  Mooshawsic,  where  he  commenced  a 
plantation,  and  called  it  Providence.     Visiting  England 
eight  years  afterwards,  he  obtained  a  free  charter  of  in- 
corporation for  Providence  and  Rhode-Island  plantations, 
the  latter  having  been  commenced  by  William  Codding- 
ton  in  1638;  and  in  1663  a  royal  charter  was  granted 
to  them  by  Charles  II.,  which  governs  the  state  to  this 
day,  there  being  no  written  constitution  as  in  the  other 
States  of  the  Union.  The  election  for  governor  was  tak- 
ing place  during  the  time  I  was  in  the  state,  and  the  vot- 
ing was  viva  voce.     The  streets  of  the  town  are  kept 
very  clean,  and  the  private  dwellings  are  generally  re- 
markably neat  and  elegant.     The  Arcade  is  also  a  hand- 
some structure,  nearly  260  feet  in  length,  with  two  front* 
supported  by  six  massive  columns  of  granite,  the  shaft  of 
each  being  a  single  block  from  23  to  21  feet  high.  Th« 
interior  consists  of  three  tiers  of  shops,  and  the  balco- 
nies are  protected  by  a  highly  ornamented  iron  balus- 
trade. 

During  my  stay  in  Providenco,  a  steamer  arrived  from 
New- York  with  passengers,  who  had  not  been  a:lo\ved 
to  land  at  Newport  on  the  sea-const,  nor  would  tUe  au- 
thorities permit  them  to  enter  Providence,  unless  they 
performed  quarantine  three  days ;  btit  gave  them  full  per- 
mission at  the  same  time  to  land  elsewln-re  on  the  river's 
banks,  on  condition  that  they  did  not  cjiter  the  tov/n  in 
loss  than  ten  days,  which  if  they  set  aside,  they  w uuld  be 
subject  to  a  heavy  penalty,  whereas  I  had  entered  by  land 
without  any  questions  being  asked,  or  any  one  uppe^ring 
to  trouble  himself  about  the  stage-coach  passengers. 

The  road  from  Providence  to  Bristol,  at  the  hend  of 
the  Naraganset  Bay,  is  through  a  pleasing  open  country; 
but  the  crops  ev«ry  where  appeared  exceedingly  poor ; 


i 


1«S 


A   subaltern's   FURLOVG/; 


many  indeed  were  scarcely  worth  gathering,  and  would 
apparently  not  yield  more  than  six  bushels  per  acT&  The 
principal  produce  of  the  land  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
Bristol  was  onions,  which  are  shipped  off  in  vast  quanti- 
ties to  New- York  and  other  large  ports  in  the  States 
Though  the  day  I  travelled  between  the  towns  was  a  fine 
hay-making  day,  yet  the  road  was  thronged  with  the 
farmers  who  were  riding  in  to  vote  for  the  governor's 
election.  It  was  one  in  which  great  interest  was  taken, 
there  being  three  candidates  for  the  office  (one  of  whom 
was  supported  by  the  Anti-masons ;)  and,  it  being  requi- 
site that  the  successful  one  should  have  a  majority  of  the 
whole  number  of  votes,  the  two  former  elections  had  foil- 
ed, and  I  saw  afterwards  by  the  public  prints  that  even 
the  third,  and,  I  believe  the  fourth,  had  also  been  unsuc- 
cessful in  appointing  one.  Two  miles  below  Bristol, 
the  passengers  cross  from  the  mainland  to  Rhode  Island, 
over  an  arm  of  the  bay  three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  in 
a  ferry-boat,  worked  by  four  horses,  who  tread  upon  a 
horizontal  wheel  which  is  connected  with  the  paddles, 
and  impel  the  boat  rapidly  through  the  water.  It  was 
blowing  rather  fresh,  and,  there  being  a  considerable 
swell  the  poor  animals  could  with  great  difficulty  keep 
on  their  legs.  A  short  distance  to  the  left  of  the  Ferry 
is  Mount  Hope,  a  conical  hill,  with  a  small  summer- 
house  on  the  summit.  It  was  there  that  King  Philip,  of 
the  Naraganset  tribe  of  Indians,  a  brave  and  intrepid 
warrior,  fell,  through  the  treachery  of  one  of  his  own 
tribe,  who  guided  Captain  Church  with  a  detachment  of 
soldiers  to  his  place  of  encampment  in  1676.  He  was  a 
most  inveterate  enemy  of  the  whites,  and  at  one  time  se- 
riously endangered  the  very  existence  of  these  colonies. 
A(^er  his  death,  resistance,  with  any  prospect  of  success, 
was  perceived  by  the  Indians  to  be  hopeless,  and  the 
tribes  on  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic,  one  by  one,  submitted 
to  the  sway  of  the  English.  During  the  three  years'  war 
waged  by  Philip  against  the  colonies,  the  flower  of  their 
strength  had  fallen,  "  Every  eleventh  family  was  house- 
leas,  and  every  eleventh  soldier  had  sunk  to  his  grave." 
The  island  is  hilly,  but  all  the  ground  is  in  a  state  of 
cultivation,  and  there  are  many  large  and  excellent  iarmc 


▲   SUBALTERN  S   FURLOUGB. 


jm 


d  wouid 
sra  The 
icinity  of 
it  quanti- 
le  States, 
kras  a  fine 
with  the 
)vernor'« 
as  taken, 
of  whom 
ng  requi- 
ity  of  the 
had  iail- 
hat  even 
n  unsuc- 

Bristol, 

e  Island, 

wide,  in 

id  upon  a 

paddles, 

It  was 
isiderable 
ulty  keep 
he  Ferry 
summer- 
Philip,  of 
i  intrepid 
his  own 
;hment  of 
He  was  a 
B  time  se- 
colonies. 
f  success, 
,  and  the 
submitted 
'ears'  war 
n'  of  their 
as  house- 
is  grave." 
a  state  of 
lent  farm* 


sc&ttered  on  the  sides  of  the  road.  The  one  which  had 
attained  the  highest  state  of  cultivation  was  the  properly 
of  an  English  gentleman,  who  had  been  settled  there  only 
a  few  years,  and  had  chosen  a  pretty  retired  spot,  near 
the  water's  edge,  for  his  house  and  gardens.  Twelve 
miles  from  the  Ferry,  we  arrived  within  sight  of  New- 
port, on  the  opposite  side  of  the  island;  it  is  situated  o?) 
the  side  of  an  eminence  rising  gradually  from  the  head 
of  a  circular  bay,  which  affords  a  most  capacious  and  ex- 
cellent harbour.  Just  as  we  arrived  at  some  old-fashion- 
ed and  dirty,  but  picturesque,  windmills  at  the  entrance  to 
the  town,  a  rope  stretched  across  the  road,  with  a  sentry 
box  at  one  end  of  it,  and  two  citizens  on  guard  with  large 
pine  sticks  in  their  hands,  brought  us  to  a  halt,  and  ona 
of  them  began  to  cross-examine  me  (being  the  only  pas- 
senger) with  the  air  of  a  man 

"  Drest  in  a  little  brief  authority," 

as  to  where  I  came  from ;  and,  upon  hearing  I  had  qnii- 
ted  New- York  six  days  previously,  he  informed  me  that 
I  could  not  enter  Newport  until  1  had  been  ten  days  ab- 
sent from  that  city.  AH  my  remonstrances  that  I  had 
travelled  through  two  entire  States,  and  visited  the  prin- 
cipal towns  in  them  since  I  had  left  it  without  any  ob- 
jections being  raised,  were  of  no  avail.  He  proffered  me 
a  Testament,  saying  he  should  have  no  objection  to  pass 
me  in,  if  I  would  take  an  oath  that  I  hao  been  absent  the 
length  of  time  required ;  which  begging  to  decline  doing, 
I  had  no  alternative  but  to  jump  off  the  coach,  which  im- 
mediately proceeded  into  the  town.  The  citizen  sentry 
then  produced  a  dirty  scrap  of  paper  on  which  he  request- 
ed me  to  write  my  name  and  place  of  abode.  I  then  sounded 
him,  to  discover  whether  ne  would  allow  me  to  walk 
through  the  town  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  it.promising  that 
I  would  return  again  in  three  hours ;  but  the  law  of  parole 
was  quite  unintelligible  to  him :  he  was  obstinate  and  faith- 
ful to  his  trust,  saying  that,  for  his  own  part,  "  he  did  not 
fear  me:  ho  would  as  soon  sleep  wiiii  iruiasnot;  but  the 
inhabitants — old  and  young,  men  tvv  .,  *  men,  were  tarna- 
tionly  frightened."  I  thanked  bini  I'  -  iis  good  will,  and 
began  to  reconnoitre  the  outskirts  oi .  .u  [Ancc  over  a  stone 
VOL.  T. — p. 


1^ 


MO 


A   SUBALtKRN's   FVRLOUOR. 


wall  which  flanked  the  road:  but  I  suppose  he  imagined 
[  had  some  intention  of  skulking  in  during  the  night;  for 
he  hinted  slightly  that  there  was  a  penalty  of  100  dollars 
if  any  one  was  discovered  entering  the  town  privily.  A 
crowd  of  men  and  boys  had  begun  to  collect  by  this  time 
and  thinking  it  more  than  probable  that  they  might  hunt 
me  down  as  they  would  a  mad  dog,  I  began  to  retrace 
my  steps  towards  Bristol.  After  proceeding  a  mile  upon 
the  road,  I  turned  across  the  fields  to  an  old  redoubt 
on  the  summit  of  a  hill,  which  overlooked  the  bay,  and 
sat  down  to  admire  the  scene,  the  beauty  of  which  might 
probobly  have  been  heightened  from  the  circumstance 
of  my  not  being  allowed  to  take  a  closer  survey  of  it 
It  had  been  a  kind  of  promised  land  to  me  from  the 
time  I  had  quitted  New- York  ;  and  I  had  thought  witlj 
pleasure  of  treading  over  the  spots  which  had  been 
the  scenos  of  so  much  real  as  well  as  fictitious  life.  The 
town  a|ipoared  calculated  for  0000  or  7000  inhabitants, 
and  built  round  a  circular  bay,  fronting  the  south-west, 
the  houses  rising  in  amphitheatrical  form  from  the 
water  up  to  the  Numtnit  of  a  range  of  heights,  which 
skirted  the  bay  ot  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distance,  wliile,  on 
the  various  points  and  headlands,  the  lofty  white  columns 
of  the  light-houses  reared  themselves  on  high,  and  every 
commanding  position  was  covered  with  dark  frowning 
batteries  and  forts.  The  distant  hills  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  bay  were  dimmed  M'ith  that  light  haze  so  peculiar 
to  southerly  winds  in  a  warm  climate,  and,  over  and  above 
them,  might  be  seen  the  dark  blue  waves  fading  away  in 
the  distimce,  until  both  sea  and  sky  were  blended  into 
one.  The  very  redoubt  upon  which  I  had  taken  my 
station  had  been  in  Mirn  possessed  by  contending  armies; 
and  every  foot  of  grouncf,  us  fiir  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
had  been  severely  contested,  It  was  h('ro  that  the  British 
army,  under  ( Jcnerf'l  I'igot,  might  have  been  captured, 
but  for  the  want  of  energy  on  :he  part  of  the  French 
Admiral  D'Estainij,  who  failed  to  co-operate  in  the  attack 
on  the  Amerinin  (Jl«'neral  Sullivan,  in  AugUNt,  I7?N.  The 
same  bay,  too,  had  been  the  principal  scene  in  the  "  lied 
Rover,"  one  of  Cooper's  most  interesting^  novels;  nnd  now 
there  were  two  vessois  lying  at  anchor  in  it,  which, 


A.  subaltern's  furlough 


171 


though  probably  not  possessing  so  much  attraction  as  the 
Rover's  ship  and  the  Bristol  merchantman,  were  by  no 
means  devoid  of  interest.  One  of  them  was  a  packet  ship 
which  had  sailed  from  New- York  only  a  few  days  pre- 
viously, bound  for  Europe,  with  a  cargo  of  cotton,  and 
many  passengers ;  but  had  taken  fire  at  sea,  and  had  put 
into  Newport  for  assistance.  Arriving  there  after  the 
cargo  had  been  on  fire  twelve  hours,  the  inhabitants,  with 
the  same  feeling  of  humanity  which  induced  them  to  ar- 
rest travellers  in  their  progress  by  land,  would  not  allow 
a  single  passenger  to  come  on  shore,  thoui,'^h  there  had 
not  been  any  symptoms  whatever  of  disease  on  board, 
but  solely  becaust;  they  had  not  been  ten  days  absent  from 
New- York.  They  had,  however,  1  must  do  them  th^ 
justice  to  say,  suHicii'nt  good-feeling  still  remaining  to 
attempt  extinguishing  the  fire,  and,  severul  engines  being 
put  on  board  lighters,  six  feet  of  water  was  thrown  into 
the  hold,  the  passengers  being  rescued  from  tlie  suffo- 
cating heat  by  a  brig  which  received  them  on  board  A 
few  days  after,  a  steamer  arrived  from  New  York  for  the 
purpose  of  towing  the  injured  vessel  buck  again  to  port, 
and,  her  fuel  being  exhnusted,  the  crew  were  not  allowed 
to  land  at  Newport  for  a  fresh  supply.  To  this  conduct, 
that  at  New-Havi'n  may  serve  as  a  sei-oir,  where  the  gates 
wore  op«^n  to  every  one,  and  the  ladies,  with  that  charitable 
fueling  for  which  American  females  are  so  distinguished, 
sent  upwards  of  I'^OO  suits  of  clothes,  in  acMition  to  a 
sum  of  money,  for  the  use  of  the  poor  people  at  Mon- 
treal, in  Fiower  -Canada,  upon  the  first  breaking  out  of 
the  disease  in  that  city. 

It  nppi'urs  to  be  tl.i'  inti'ntion  of  the  American  Ciovern 
motit  to  render  the  harbour  inipregiiuble.  Fort  Adams, 
which  is  building  upon  a  point  of  land,  and  connected, 
with  the  town  by  a  narrow  neck,  was  commenced  five 
years  since,  and  in  likely  to  take  three  more  to  finish  it 
though  300  vorkmi'n  are  kept  in  employ  the  annual 
expenditure  upon  it  is  nearly  100,000  doUari.  Fort 
Woolcott  is  situated  upon  an  iaiand  in  the  centre  of  the 
harbour,  between  Port  Adams  and  tho  town.  There  im 
Another  fort  up<ni  Rose  Island,  a  short  distance  above  tho 
town,  nt  th«  entrance  to  th»  Naragana«t  Uivor ;  while  a 


i! 


I 


17a 


A  subaltern's  rVRLOirOR. 


fourth  occupies  a  rocky  point  called  the  Dumplings,  at 
frhe  entrance-  to  the  bay,  opposite  to  Fort  Adums.  The 
tfiwn  is  a  fashionable  watering  place  for  the  southern 
people,  there  being  a  most  extensive  and  beautiful  beach 
unon  the  opposite  side  of  the  neck  to  that  upon  which 
tlic  town  is  built,  and  having  the  additional  luxury  of  a 
fine  sea  breeze,  which  seta  in  during  the  summer  months 
t'i\nn  about  nine  in  the  morning  until  sunset. 

The  surrounding  country  is  rather  devoid  of  trees,  a 
•oniplaint  which  a  traveller  will  not  often  have  to  make 
111  America,  but  so  n.any  are  rising  np  round  the  pretty 
r..'3i(l<jncets  in  tiie  vicinity  of  the  town,  that  in  a  few  years 
it  will  be  a  most  attractive  place.  After  making  one  or 
two  ahnost  inelll'ctual  uttinnpts  at  taking  a  sketcli  of  the 
town,  ngainsl  which  1  believe  there  was  neither  ])ain  nor 
ponaliy  attached,  1  again  rose,  having  rested  myself  for 
two  liours  in  tra/ing  u|»on  tlje  scene,  and,  rtignining  the 
ri),ul,  |)roceede(l  on  my  jonriKiy,  almost  wicKed  enough  to 
wusli  thai  the  cholera  might  pay  the  inhabitanlu  of  New- 
pur*  a  visit,  in  return  for  tht  ir  inhospitable  conduct  to 
trivellers,  and  those  who  were  seeking  n  place  of  refuge. 
After  a  Jiot  Wiilk  of  six  mile^,  I  arrived  towards  sunset  at 
.»  small  tavern  on  the  road-side,  where  1  could  obtain  a 
iiippiT  and  a  bed. 

Tlie  following  morning,  the  lOlh  of  July.  I  took  the 
taiicii,  and  ])roceeded  through  the  village  ul  J'ortsmouth 
(  ^here  someetml  mines  had  been  worKed  the  jireceding 
ye;ir,  but  wliich  were  closed  again,  the  produce  being 
ojily  a  sort  of  anthracite,  or  worNi  (h'soriiilion  oft-oul,)  to 
fhc  N.  E  e.xireinily  of  the  island  K(  «'|)Mig  along  a  nar- 
row neek  of  liind,\\  liicli  is  overllow  ed  at  .-prin!' -tides,  wo 
tti*. >.<se(l  (he  Seaeonne'  to  llu'  mainland,  by  a  pier  (KM) 
y  >rds  in  leni.'th,  with  a  draw-hridye  in  lln;  centre  for  the 
tuivi'iraiiun  of  \e,'^se|,s  into  iNbtuni  llopi'  IJay.  'J'o  guard 
f.!ie  pas's,  n  sniiill  block-bouse  and  brea.^iwork  have  been 
thrown  up  at  the  Ijhode-lslanij  eiirl  of  the  pier;  and  the 
lnw'ghts  above  tlui  small  village,  at  the  opposite  .side,  are 
i:  ••ered  with  old  revidntionary  redoubts.  Alter  ascend- 
i  ig  tln'.^ie  heights,  a  splendid  view  pre.senlN  itself  o( 
iVlount  Hope,  tite  nume.  >us  creeks  and  rivulets  of  Narn- 
^HUiot  ii'iy,  the  town  of  JUristol,  with  many  viiluges  and 


▲  SOBAT.TBRIf'a   rURLOUOH 


178 


white  cottages  interspersed  amongst  the  trees,  the  country 
fur  a  distance  of  fifty  miles  being  varied  with  every  kind 
of  laitdscape.  From  the  Seaconnet,  we  passed  through 
a  broken  and  uninteresting  country,  to  the  small  town 
of  Tiverton,  where  are  manufactories  of  printed  calicoes ; 
and  a  few  miles  farther  to  Fall  River,  another  manufac- 
turing place  of  flourishing  appearance.  By  the  time  we 
had  arrived  there,  the  heat  of  the  sun  was  so  oppressive 
that  I  sought  shelter  from  its  rays  within  the  coach,  and 
placed  myself  in  the  centre  seat  opposite  to  an  elderly 
and  a  young  Quaker,  as  the  former  was  saying,  "  Voung 
men  can  be  convinced — their  opinii  is  are  not  y(!\  formed 
— they  have  no  prejudices,  no  contlicting  interests  to 
contend  with.  But  old  men  like  me  are  quite  the  reverse: 
they  have  formed  their  opinions,  and  will  not  change 
them,  nor  will  they  listen  to  the  voice  of  reason,  and  I 
truly  think  there  are  not  twelve  old  men  in  Fall 
River  who  rank  on  the  anti-slavery  side."  In  expecta- 
tion of  hearing  something  interesting,  I  paid  particular 
attention  to  the  following  conversation  — 

"  More  than  that,"  said  the  young  man.  "  Not  more 
than  twelve  decided  opponents  to  slavery,"  answered  the 
other.  There  are  plenty  of  thy  lukewarm  characters — 
men,  who,  if  thou  ask  them  the  question  direct,  will  uay, 
'  let  it  bo  done  by  degrees;  not  while  we  live.'  Now, 
go  to  a  school  of  cnildren,  say  100,  and  represent  slavery 
to  them  in  its  true  light ;  they  will  ail  cry  out,  '  let  it  bo 
abolished  immediately  ;'  but  tliy  old  men  isay,  'Oht  it  is 
as  with  a  drunkard,  if  he  abstain  from  dnnv  i"  too  rtud- 
dunly,  ho  will  surely  die:  no!  it  must  tupii  oH'  by  de- 
grees, as  it  were  " 

"  Well,  and  they  are  right  in  having  tln>ir  own  opi- 
nions upon  the  subjuct,"  said  u  sliarpri>titiir*fd,  dark,  and 
aged,  but  fiery  looking  man,  who  mil  woxt  to  »nc,  "and 
not  submitting  to  the  sentiments  of  every  itinerant 
preacher  they  hear." 

"  But  they  know  nothing  of  slavery ;  now,  I  hnva 
seen  plenty  of  it," 

"  Where  ?" 

"  Why,  in  Maryland,  in  Columbia,  ond  in  Virginia  ** 

"  But  have  you  leen  it  in  Carolina?" 


ti 


11 


874 


▲  sdbaltirn'b  furlough. 


"  No,  I  have  not." 

"  Then  you  know  nothing  about  it,  nor  have  you  any 
idoii  what  slavery  is." 

"  What !  its  miseries  and  horrors  V 

"  Miseries!    No! — its  pleasures  and  its  happiness." 

"  Pleasures?" 

"  Yes,  pleasures ;  they  are  much  happier  mid  more 
contented  than  you  and  I ;  they  have  not  half  the  cares 
;in<l  anxieties  we  have.  Have  not  we  our  families  to  care 
iinl  provide  for?  And  these  nep^roes,  too,  require  and 
enjoy  j)rotection  ;  they  area  poor  helpless  rnce  of  beings, 
wiio  do  not  posses.s  sufficient  natural  sense  to  take  care 
ofdieinselves;  witness  those  who  were  manumitted  after 

\]u'  revolution,  and  those  again  of  Colonel 's,  just 

jliove  here;  are  they  not  wandering  about,  the  greatest 
rogues  and  vagabonds  in  the  State,  without  attempting 
t.o  earn  a  livelihood  ?" 

"  Plio  !  all  men  were  created  equal ;  and  they  have  the 
jsame  claims  to  freedom  as  we  have  " 

"  No,  Sir,  as  one  star  above  difTereth  from  another  in 
jplendonr  ond  magnitude,"  snid  a  little  shrill-toned  old 
woman,  with  a  face  like  a  dried  cabliagc,  in  (he  rear,  "  so 
do  mankind  on  eartli ;  aonw  men  ai'  Tented  with  nbund- 
iUice  of  lalents,  and  others  with  noru  tlirre's  for  vou. 
Sir!" 

"  No  Madam,  wc*  all  sprung  from  one  man,  wr  are  nil 
of  (.hf  sanu- family ;  no  (nr  was  born  .subject  to  llie  other, 
and  the  fjrrt  man  douht  r.ss  was  black  " 

"  Black'"  reiterated  balfa  dozen  voice;*  rif  once 

"  f '  )|ipei  coloured,  thou  sliouldst  »uy,"  said  tUe  young 

"  HefiveiiK,  black  '  '  screatned  tli{(  old  ludy  ,  "  how  Ml  it, 
(hen,  that  tliey  ai'»  so  much  flmnged  ' 

"  Wby.  <  "utb'i"  Hay.s,  '  dwt,  l>en  Cain  kill  <le  brodder 
Abel,  de  nianna  imuu — un  hw.  sny,  '  ('am  wlinr  you  a 
bmdder  Abel  V  (  iiiii  sny.  I  don  t  know  jf,.»hsa,'  He 
t'lim  gin  in  Hiiy. '  (ain,  whnryouu  I'iddtitr  Abel  V  Cain 
;*iiy,  '  I  don'i  know,  inncsa  but  the  niegef  lino'ed  all  do 
time.  MassM  nowgetmtui  -uni  gin,  ifcmU  mity sharp dis 
lime, '  (^aJn  you  nigjfer.  wlinr  ycni  a  brodder  V  <  'nin  no\T 
Jet  /I'ttiit,  AIM  he  turn  ull  uv«r  \ui\e  «§  it  »hu«t  I   but  I 


A    BtTBikLTERN's    FURLOUOU. 


IW 


know  not,  madam,  nor  do  I  pretend  to  know,  nor  to  be 

able  to  explain  the  true  reason." 

"  They  are  poor  helpless  beings,"  said  the  old  woman; 

•'  they  require,  protectors  and  have  them  " 
"  A  nigger  is  a  nigger,"  said  the  dark  man — 
"  Aye,  u  nigger's  a  nigger,"  said  the  Cluaker,  "  and 

a  hog 's  Li  hog,  but  a  man  need  not  bo  black  tc  be  a 

nigger" 

"  Flcery  loc1<ii  and  skins  of  jet 

Do  not  forff'it  NiUurc'B  claim : 

Skins  may  dilTcr "  « 


"  Oh,  you  may  talk  and  preach,"  paid  the  black  man, 
"  but  its  of  no  use;  all  your  logic  and  philosophy  areOjUite 
lost  upr»n  tne ;  my  opinion  is  formed,  and  you  know  no- 
thing about  the  matter.  I  have  lived  at  Charleston  four- 
teen years,  nnd  had  as  manya,s  eleven  or  twelve  vessels  on 
the  const  of  Africa,  purcliiising  and  selling  slaves,  so  I 
ought  to  know  somethin'.r  aboiit  it." 

The  (Inaker  was  evidently  .struck  dmnbat  llii.s,  and  gave 
a  kind  of  involuntary  .shuddir ;  no  one  utteri d  a  word,  but 
nil  looked  hard  at  the  slaver,  and  even  T  scanned  his  coun- 
tenance clo.sely.  I  fancy  myself  (ms  do  many  others) 
»omt>thiu!M.)f  !i  )>hy.«iognonusl;  but  my  scrutiny  produced 
nothinj^  for  his  frafun'S  betokened  ueilher  crijelty  norany 
rioious  nrofn'nsity.  The  dead  silence  was  ul  lawt  broken 
by  the  old  hdy  .sayiuL'  to  tlic  hint  spenluT  \vlio!s<:  counte- 
nance she  had  hern  ev;uniiiinjr  over  my  shoulder  (or  sumo 

tim(!.  "  .\re  you  INfr.  S f 

"  Ve.s,  MiViim!" 

"  Ah'  how  do  you  do?  Many  k  tlic  .Kdlar';}  worth  I  have 

bought  of  you      IJon't  you  nuietnlier  Miss that  used 

to  be?  I)  is  thirty-five  years  sinci'  we  met  "  and  the  old 
•  roncM  ri'iioved  ilnir  recollections  of  days  loni,'  j^one  by. 
The  (tiiaUor  .stuik  hack  in  hisrteat.and  le;niin<,'[  his  hwid 
against  tlic  conch  rnu.scd  fiu'sorue  miruite:-!,  when  the  con- 
rersation  (laif.Mng  he  rallied  a;jain  with — "J.}ut,  friend,  I 
Jjave  nadc  couverls  ineviiy  town  I  have  visited—" 

"(')nveii.'<'  aye,  you  uii;f|it  ujaKeconverlsfoi  any  thing 
now  J  MMch  is  iho  miirch  of  mind  that  every  one  thinks 


Vi 


A   subaltern's   rVKLOUOH. 


t^f/tfM^/l 


himself  wiser  than  his  father,  and  anything  now,  however 
mad  or  absurd  the  scheme  may  be,  is  eagerly  swallowed. 
Why,  you  might  convert  one  half  the  human  race  to  mur* 
der  the  other,  if  you  would  but  propose  it :  any  mad 
scheme  finds  numerous  converts.  A  few  years  since,  at 
Bristol  here,  a  man  was  considered  worse  than  a  heretic 
if  he  was  not  a  Mason,  and  now,  such  is  the  change  in 
people's  sentiments,  and  Anti-masonry  is  carried  to  such 
a  pi.ch,  that  they  would  cut  every  Mason's  throat  for  a 
mere  trifle — " 

"  I  have  heard  as  much  upon  the  other  side  of  the 
question,"  answered  the  Quaker,  '*  and  with  some  truth 
I  believe"  (alluding  to  Morgan.*)  This  was  evidently 
touching  upon  a  tender  point,  for  the  dark  man  did  not 
say  any  thing.  The  Q,uaker  now  addressed  himself  to 
the  young  man,  saying,  "  Thou  hast  read  Gamsin's  work 
on  Colonization?" 

"  No,  1  have  not." 

"  They  miglit  as  well  give  them  arsenic  at  once  as 
send  them  there,"  again  commenced  the  slaver. 

"  Aye,  now  I  like  to  converse  with  thee  upon  a  subject 
on  which  both  agree — " 

"  I  nevLi  .substitute  theory  for  practice,  nor  talk  about 
things  J  do  nut  understand — " 


I 'ill 


iP» 


In* 


*  Williiim  Morran  wiis  a  printer,  reiitUng  at  Batavia  in  tiie  state 
of  New-York,  ana  piil>li«h*;a  what  Unvc  ber.n  culled  tlif  secrets  of 
iniisonry,  buiiij^  liimsilf  u  inenihtir  of  iliut  s<»cioly.  A  short  time 
ut'itir  the  iippoHrunc'  of  his  pamphlet  hr  wus  niissin^,  and  nuthinf^ 
certiiiii  rtispcrtiiiu;  liiw  fate  la  known  to  thiis  day.  It  was  aMO«rtatnod, 
upon  tlic  trial  of  si>nit<  HUH|)(;ciod  pcrHons,  that  uc  had  been  car- 
r;-d  nwiiy  by  force  fimn  liis  house  (luririf^  the  ni{j;ht,  and  was  siibsfy 
•lucnily  cimfiriod  in  a  hi  "ik-housc  wi  'in  ilic  fort  of  Niiif^arn,  on  tho 
Anieiicu)  aliore  of  Lake  Ontario.  As  niiifhi  bo  exfiected,  a  f^rcnt 
txi'iteinent  wax  created  throut^hout  the  SlulCH,  and  in  some  placet 
even  arts  of  p(>rMi>na!  violrnce  werr  cotriniitteti  u(»on  the  Masons, 
who  were  n<*«MW«d  of  haviny;  nutrdc  red  .Moruan.  In  every  part  of 
the  *  lion  .  .  tnisonir  societicN  were  furmeii  ;  there  arc  now  anti- 
musix.a'  newspiiiKiN,  anti  inaMon*c  almaiiairs,  and  even  aiiti-manonk 
cand  datci«  fur  tiie  hiu;lt  in  (>i  prtiHidcnl  an<i  |;tivcmor»  of  states, 
tin  !v  f;ronnd  of  pn*t.eiisi(in  these  caiididAles  i^issins  fur  Kllinff 
s'ich  offices  iMiin^r  th>l  tht-y  are  opjioscd  to  Ma.sonry.  Many  Masoiii 
r»niMincod  the  sociriy  of  which  they  were  mcinbrr*,  and  the  number 
of  those  puopio  who  have  arrayed  llienis«dv«-s  on  the  side  of  the  unti* 
masonic  parly  is  such  as  now  to  form  a  poworAd  politioal  on|;uic. 


k  bvbaltb&n's  furlodou. 


irr 


'•  But  thou  was  talking  of  Liberia,  Friend !" 

"  Well,  I  said  it  was  murder  to  send  the  negroes  there: 
the  settlement  is  located  on  the  worst  spot  of  the  whole 
coast  of  Africa ;  they  are  poor  helpless  beings,  and  when 
they  arrive  there  they  are  not  inured  to  the  climate,  and 
die  by  thousands."  The  Q,uaker  here  took  out  his  tablets 
and  said,  "  Friend,  thy  name  ?" 

"  Why,  Samuel  S ,  of street,  Boston,  opposite 

the .   All  Boston  know  mo  as  well  as  they  do  the 

old  spire — " 

*•  Well,  Friend,  I  want—" 

*  Oh,  I  don  t  care  what  you  want — " 

"  1  want  till!  privilcj^c  of  addressing  a  letter  to  thee  upon 
the  subject  of  coloni/ulion,  for  ihy  answer — " 

"  ril  answer  you,  1  don't  care;  1  have  been  amongst 
forty  priests  at  once.  1  belon<r  to  the  {?;ood  old  church,  but 
I  don't  bclievtj  all  tlicy  want  me :  I  don't  think  there's  so 
much  misery  in  this  world  as  thoy  say — " 

"  But  some  pco])le  j.Tive  such  accounts  of  the  colony." 

"  Aye,  to  gull  the  Ncw-Euglimdcrs  out  of  their  mo- 
riery — 

"  And  to  malceslav(!ry  niorc  srciire  by  j:,M'Uin<'  rid  of  the 
Free  Blacks."  We  shuuld  now  iiavc  had  another  storm, 
but,  unfurtunnii'ly,  n  mm  in  th(  road  broiij'lit  us  in  sight 
of  a  larg'e  .slwuncr  with  iMiuiimntiiu'  schooner  alongside, 
lying  in  the  river  beneath  us,  which  iininiHliately  changed 
the  conversjjiion.  The  slaver  invi'ighed  most  bitterly 
Rgainsl  the  IV<>w  Yorkers  for  runniuij;  uj)  nnd  down, 
«])rcading  the  cholera  ihroui^h  thu  couuiry,  "  jor  nothing 
( ould  ever  eouvim-e  hiui  that  it  was  not  contiii,''iou3.  In 
the  East  Indies,  however,  they  thoui'ht  nothiiii.',  of  it;  for 
the  Caj)tHitis  v(  ships  had  lold  him  that  they  liad  been 
attacked  two  or  three  liuus  by  it  iu  (Jahuitta,  hut  alwa3rs 
came  clear  nil'  l)y  keepinff  u  bottle  of  brandy  and  somo 
luudamirn  at  their  bedsicK',  and  taiiini''  a  dose  when  they 
ielt  the  attack  coiuin;,'  on.  nnd  ( ontinuinjf  it  at  intervals 
until  cured."  Al(liouj.'h  I  knew  he  was  labouring  under 
B  false  imnression  with  rejjurd  to  the  cholera  being 
thought  lii;mly  of  in  ('alcutta,  and  ditlered  with  him  in 
upinion  as  to  confaijion.  1  deemcMl  it  prudent  not  to 
make  any  objcrvution  upon  (he  latter  part  of  the  subject, 


I  i 


«i 


t  ' 


m^ 


178 


A    SUBALTERN  S    rVRLOVOH, 


I 


■I 

lii'j'' 


being  so  lately  from  New- York,  and  only  remarked  that 
•'  such  being  the  case,  how  would  the  Temperance  So- 
cieties retain  their  influence  over  the  people,  if  they  form- 
ed an  idea  that  brandy  would  cure  the  disease  V  The 
little  old  woman  sprang  up  sharply,  "A  man  came  to  me 
the  other  day  with  a  book,  and  asked  me  to  aflix  my 
name.  I  said,  no ;  I  will  not  sign  my  name  to  any  thing 
I  do  not  know ;  he  told  me  to  read,  and  I  looked  into  the 
book,  and  found  it  was  a  Temperance  Society  Register ; 
oh,  sir,  said  I,  I  thank  you,  I  know  what  is  good  for  me 
without  being  dictated  to ;  and  if  I  feel  thirsty,  and  some 
spirits  and  water  were  standing  near  me,  I  should  think 
it  cruel  to  debar  myself  a  draught.  I  am  seventy-two 
years  of  age,  and  old  women,  like  me,  require  a  stimulus 
and  my  own  good  sense  will  tell  me  when  I  have  taken 
enough :  I  gave  it  him  in  short-hand,  I'll  warrant  you." 
We  had  now  arrived  at  the  pretty  town  of  Taunton,  and, 
changing  coaches,  I  was  deprived  of  a  company  which 
had  afforded  me  much  amusement,  and,  thinking  it  a  good* 
specimen  of  coach  conversation,  noted  it  down  while  the 
baggage  was  removing. 

My  fellow-passengers  were  now  much  the  reverse  of 
the  last :  immediately  we  had  left  the  town,  they  all  leaned 
back  in  their  seats,  and  closed  their  eyes.  Once  only  did 
the  slaver,  who  siill  accompanied  me,  endeavour  to  break 
the  dead  silence  by  observing  that  '•  we  should  now  keep 
on  the  turnpike  the  rest  of  the  journey ;"  but,  no  one 
answering  him,  he  also  followed  the  general  example,  and 
[,  though  there  were  nine  inside  passengers,  having  se- 
cured a  seat  near  the  window,  renewed  my  examination 
of  the  surrounding  country,  or  watched  the  dark  rolling 
clouds  of  a  gathering  thunder-storm.  The  road  we  tra- 
velled was  certainly  excellent,  and  no  wonder  as  the  whole 
country  was  covered  more  or  less  with  stone,  and  the  walls 
of  the  inclosurcs  made  immoderately  thick  (from  4  to  6 
feet)  for  the  purpose  of  ridding  the  ground.  There  wa3 
mdeed,  a  sutficient  quantity  of  rock  upon  the  land  (o  jus- 
tify p  p»*ce  of  wit  by  a  Yankee,  who,  some  few  days  atter- 
wardft.  was  n  t'hniu -e  travellir  with  me  over  the  same  de- 
scription o(  ctiuntry  After  gazing  fur  a  length  of  time  in 
apparent  astiMiMhment  at  the  thick  walb  and  tho  mass  of 


hai 
air 
coi 
"V 
"I 
sh( 
thii 
vel 
gei 
wo 
ao( 
riv( 
ly: 
Yc 
Ho 
Sta 
an] 
wit 
ne^ 
tiot 
hot 


A   SUBiLTtRN  8   TVRLOVGU. 


no 


hard  materials  whrch  covered  every  acre,  he  said,  with  au 
air  of  well-feigned  simplicity,  "Well,  I  wonder  where  they 
could  have  got  all  the  stones  to  huild  such  thick  walls." 
"Why,  from  the  fields  to  be  sure,"  said  a  surly  old  farmer. 
"  La  !  did  they  indeed?"  answered  the  other;  "really  I 
ithould  never  have  missed  them."  To  me  this  was  some- 
thing new ;  but  judging  from  the  faces  of  my  fellow-tra- 
vellers, and  the  Yankee's  failure  in  attempting  to  create  a 
general  laugh,  it  was  not  original.  The  country  was 
woody  and  undulating,  increasing  in  picturesque  beauty 
and  population  as  we  approached  Boston,  where  we  ar- 
rived at  half-past  seven:  and  I  considered  myself  especial- 
ly fortunate,  as  so  many  people  had  flecl  from  New- 
York  to  this  city,  in  obtaining  room  at  the  Tremont 
House,  the  fiiiest  and  best-conducted  hotel  in  the  United 
States.  The  building  itself  is  not  inferior  in  beauty  to 
any  in  Boston,  and  the  reading-room  is  well  supplied 
with  not  only  the  principal  American  and  Canadian 
newspapers,  but  also  European  and  American  publica- 
tions, Of  which  I  could  never  get  a  sight  in  any  other 
hotel  in  America. 


■  ■ 


iw 


A  Subaltern's  FTritLouoB. 


CHAPTER  Xni 

Athens  of  Italy ! 


SOTHEBT. 


f^' 


The  city  of  Boston  is  built  upon  a  peninsula,  which  is 
joined  to  the  main  land  by  a  very  narrow  neck  on  the 
southern  side ;  it  contains  about  70,000  inhabitants,  and 
vies  with  any  of  its  southern  neighbours  in  the  situation 
and  beauty  of  its  public  and  private  dwellings.  In  1630,  at 
its  foundation,  the  Indian  name  was  Shawmut,  which  was 
changed  to  Trimountain,  from  the  three  hills  upon  which 
it  is  now  built;  subsequently  it  received  its  present  name,  jn 
honour  of  a  minister  who  emigrated  from  Boston  in  lift- 
colnshire.     Upon  the  other  sides  of  the  peninsula,  corr^ 
munication  is  kept  up  with  the  mainland  by  several  strong 
wooden  bridges  varying  in  length  from  1500  to  3500  feet, 
and  on  its  western  side  by  a  pier  of  solid  materials  1  ~  mils 
in  length,  and  above  80  feet  in  width.    The  bay  is  a  most 
magnificent  one,  and  equals  that  of  New- York,  but  in  a 
different  style  of  beauty.     The  Boston  bay  is  on  a  much 
moregrancfand  extensive  scale  containing  75 square mii)B« 
and  studded  with  more  than  100  islands  and  rocks,  the 
only  ship  channel  being  between  Forts  Warren  and  Iiv 
dependence  on  Governors  and  Castle  islands.    The  land 
which  almost  encircles  the  bay  is  high  and  cultivated, 
and  numerous  towns  and  villages  are  scattered  over  it. 
When  entering  the  harbour  from  sea,  I  think  it  much 
more  beautifnl  than  New- York.    The  city  ri.ses  in  a  much 
prettier  and  more  showy  form  upon  its  three  hills,  and  the 
whole  is  surmounted  by  the  lofty  dome  of  the  State  House, 
But  then  there  is  no  view  from  any  part  of  Boston  to  be 
compared  with  the  bewitching  one  from  the  battery  in 
New- York  ox\  a  still  summer's  eveninj?. 

As  to  liti.'rary  character,  it  is  the  vVthens  of  the  western 
world;  the  number  of  its  literary  publio.uions  is  very 
great,  being  0  newspapers  daily,  4  three  times  a  week, 
8  twice  a  week,  and  10  weekly  ;  2  weekly  magazines,  2 
semi-monthly,  1 1  monthly  (principally  religious.)  4  every 
two  months,  6  quarterly,  and  1   semi-annually;    and 


,1 


A  ^UBALTBRN  S    FURLOUGH. 


1«1 


! 


"%  ntew-year  annuals ; — in  addition  to  which  the  British 
Q,uarterly  Review  is  re-printed.  As  an  historical  spot,  it 
ranks  far  above  all  others  in  the  west,  having  been  the 
birth-place  of  American  Independence ;  and,  the  city 
having  arrived  to  maturity  before  that  eVent  took  place, 
it  more  resembles  an  English  one  than  any  other  in  the 
States,  I  had  become  rather  wearry  of  straig-ht  streets, 
which,  though  in  some  respects  convenient,  are  tiresomely 
monotonous  to  a  stranger,  and  was  glad  to  be  once  again 
walking  in  those  of  a  description  I  h;ul  been  most  accus- 
tomed to.  Theenvirons are  more  i  _;  alsolhan  those 
of  Philadelphia  and  New  York  ;  i  v  being  inter- 
sected with  delightful  rides,  ever  hich  affords 
some  fine  view. 

The  "  common"  in  which  the  State  Houst  is  situated  is 
an  open  park,  containing  75  acres  of  broken  and  abrupt 
ground,  with  a  promenade  and  double  row  of  fine  trees 
roundit.  It  was  reserved  in  perpetuum  by  the  first  settlers 
for  a  parade-ground,  or  other  public  purposes,  and  is  sur- 
rounded upon  three  sides  by  elegant  private  dwellings  and 
several  churches,  the  fourth  side  being  open  to  a  wide  bay. 
There  is  a  fine  drooping  old  elm  in  the  centre  of  it,  near 
a  serpentine  sheet  of  water,  which  the  inhabitants  are 
taking  evrjry  possible  pains  to  preserve,  by  binding  the 
large,  broad,  spreading  branches,  and  eonnecting  them 
witheach  other  by  strong  belts  and  bars  of  iron.  The  State 
House,  at  one  corner  of  the  common,  is  on  elevated 
ground,  30  feet  higher  than  the  street,  from  which  a  broad 
flight  of  steps  leads  to  the  great  hall  of  50  feet  in  length 
and  breadth,  and  20  high.which,  with  the  treasurer's,  ad- 
jutant, and  quarter-master  general's  offices,  occupies  the 
lower  story.  In  a  building  attached  to  the  basement  story 
is  a  marble  statue  of  Washington,  executed  by  Chantrey 
at  a  cost  of  15,000  dollars  (3100/.  sterling,)  and  consi- 
dered, by  those  who  knew  the  original  at  the  time  of  life 
it  is  intended  to  represent,  a  most  striking  and  admirable 
likeness.  The  figure  is  concealed  by  the  Roman  toga, 
supported  over  the  breast  by  the  left  hand ;  while  the  right, 
pendent  at  the  side,  holds  a  scroll ;  it  is  placed  upon  a  high 
pedestal,  which  (proh  pudor !)  is  surrounded  on  every  side 
by  the  stains  of  squirted  tobacco  juice.     It  is  well  that  u 

VOL.  1. — Q. 


ii! 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


i.o  i^iu  m 

■u  lU  112.2 


Z  lU 


1.1 


■MUW 


\> 


FhotograiJiic 

^Sciences 

CorporatiQn 


31  WmT  MAIN  ITRIIT 

WIMTIR.N.Y.  I4IM 

(7U)l7a>4>03 


^^^ 
^ 


;\ 


183 


▲  BABALTSRN's  rVRLOUOH. 


•trongiron  railing  prevents  visitors  from  approaching  with* 
in  less  than  seven  feet,  or  the  statue  itself  would  be  barely 
sacred  from  such  a  filthy  pollution.  The  second  story  con- 
tains th6  fine  and  spacious  Representative's  Room,  and  Se- 
nate Chamber;  from  the  dome,  which  is  230  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  8ea,a  mostexter.dive  view  presents  itself  of  the 
beautiful  harbour  and  surrounding  country.  The  exterior 
of  the  building,  at  a  distance,  is  a  striking  object ;  but,  upon 
closer  inspection,  it  is  found  to  be  constructed  merely 
of  the  common  brick,  painted  white.  The  entrance  being 
through  an  arched  front,  which  supports  a  colonnade  of 
Corinthian  columns,  extending  94  feet,  the  full  length  of 
the  centre  of  the  building,  has  a  handsome  appearance, 
but  the  two  wings,  40  feet  each  in  length,  look  extremely 
bare,  and  might  be  much  improved  in  architectural  beauty. 
The  Mason's  Hall,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Common, 
isa  fine  granite  building,  with  Gothic  windows  and  towers : 
and  the  Park  Church  near  it  has  a  highly  ornamental 
and  light  spire. 

The  New  England  Museum,  which  I  had  heard  was 
the  best  in  the  States,  contained  a  very  poor  collection ; 
every  thing  in  it  appeared  mere  trash,  excepting  a  Venus 
by  Canova,  two  pintings  by  Vernet,  and  one  by  Opie. 
The  Americans  nave  a  singular  taste  for  wax  figures  in 
their  museums;  I  had  seen  them  exhibited  at  New- York, 
but  should  have  given  the  Boston  poople  credit  for  possess- 
ing better  taste.  In  this  museum  they  were  most  wretched 
compositions,  and  some  of  thoni  disgusting  subjects. 
One  represented  a  man  (who  hod  been  lately  executed  for 
the  crime)  in  the  act  of  murdering  another  as  he  slept  in 
bed.  Others  were  "  Clueen  Caroline  of  England,''  the 
"  Princess  Charlotte,"  "Siamese)  twins,"  &c. ;  and  another 
was  absurdly  ridiculous :  it  represented  the  Goddess  of 
America  weeping  over  the  tomb  of  Washington,  unon 
which  was  an  inscription,  tolling  every  reader,  "  whether 
an  American  or  not,  to  behold  with  reverence  and  regret 
the  tomb  which  contained  the  remains  of  the  truest  pa- 
triot, the  best  relative,  and  the  kindest  friend."  The  tomb 
was  no  more  a  model  of  the  one  at  Mount  Vernon  thun 
it  wnff  of  the  mausoleum  of  Mydur  Ali  at  Serinp^npiituut ; 
and  tho  goddess  had  such  a  ruei'ul  dirty  uountenunco,  from 


▲  subaltern's  furlough. 


163 


the  dcimp  which  had  caused  the  dust  to  collect  in  long 
streaks  upon  it,  like  the  stripes  of  a  zebra,  that  it  was  next 
to  an  impossibility  to  look  at  the  figure  without  bursting 
into  a  fit  of  laughter.  This  same  goddess,  too,  appears  a 
great  favourite  in  the  Museum,  as  there  was  a  large  daub 
of  a  painting  in  one  of  the  rooms,  representing  a  female 
in  the  attitude  of  holding  a  cup  to  an  eagle  which  was 
hovering  over  her  head,  with  the  following  inscription ; 
"  The  goddess  of  America  giving  nourishment  to  the  bald 
eagle,  trampling  the  key  of  the  Bastile  under  foot,  and 
the  British  fleet  leaving  Boston,"  about  which  the  light- 
ning is  playing,  and  shivering  the  topsails  of  the  men-of- 
war  in  a  most  terrific  manner. 

The  Fanouil  Hall  is  an  interesting  old  building,  from 
the  circumstance  of  its  being  the  place  where  Hancock, 
Adams,  and  other  revolutionaiy  orators,  addressed  the 
populace  and  excited  them  to  take  up  arms,  after  a 
small  party  of  British  soldiers  had  fired  in  their  own  de- 
fen(*e  upon  some  citizens,  who  (to  quote  the  words  of  the 
American  biographer)  ^'had  aa$ailed  the  troops  with  balli 
of$now  and  other  weapon$J^  The  original  building,  com- 
menced in  1740,  was  thegifl  of  a  gentleman  of  the  name 
of  Faneuil  to  the  city  of  Boston,  but  was  partially  de- 
stroyed by  fire  twenty  years  afterwards,  and  repaired  in 
1763.  The  lower  story  is  now  occupied  by  shops,  but 
the  hall  is  still  in  use  tot  public  meetings.  Between  it 
and  the  bay  is  the  Faneuil  Hall  Market,  630  feet  in  length, 
and  60  in  width,  built  entirely  of  granite,  upon  ground 
reclaimed  from  the  sea.  The  interior  is  divided  into  188 
fltalls  of  most  capacious  dimensions,  each  furnished  with  a 
large  sash  window,  and  kept  remarkably  neat  and  clean : 
some  even  had  smartly  framed  prints  and  other  decora 
tions  in  them.  They  are  also  divided  according  to  the  fol 
lowing  order : — 14  for  mutton,  lamb,  veal,  and  poultry 
46  for  beef;  19  for  pork,  lamb,  mutton,  and  poultry 
4  for  butter  and  cheese ;  19  for  vegetables ;  3  for  poultry 
and  venison ;  and  20  for  fish.  The  cellar  story  is  occupied 
for  stores  and  provisions,  and  the  second  ground  story 
for  two  great  halli,  the  centre  of  the  building  being  sur- 
mounted by  a  dome.  On  each  side  of  the  market-houi«, 
at  tt6  and  lOO  feet  distant,  are  two  fine  rows  of  excellent 
,  ihops,  uniformly  built  of  granite,  and  being  of  the  same 


18^ 


it  svbactsrn's  rVRtOVOH. 


length  as  the  market,  they  present  a  remarkably  handsome 
appearance.  In  rear  of  the  Athensbum,  which  contains  a 
well-selected  library  of  27,000  volumes  and  a  collection  of 
medals  amounting  to  about  15,000,  is  the  Gallery  of  Fine 
Arts ;  the  lower  story  of  the  building  is  occupied  by  the 
Medical  Society's  Library,  and.the  philosophical  appara- 
tus of  the  Mechanics*  Institution;  the  upper  by  the  exhibi- 
tion of  paintings,  in  which  there  are  two  very  fine  venera- 
ble heads  of  Washington  and  his  wife,  by  Stuart,  the  only 
original  portraits  of  them  by  that  artist  in  America ;  they 
are  upon  plain  canvass,  and  considered  striking  likenesses, 
but  the  pictures  are  in  a  very  unfinished  state,  the  figures 
not  being  even  traced  om. 

In  tlie  Navy-yard,  which  is  at  Charlestown  (built  on 
another  peninsula,  connected  with  Boston  by  bridges,  and 
containing  7000  inhabitants,^  a  most  excellent  Dry  Dock 
is  constructing.  It  is  the  only  one  in  the  country,  and  is 
formed  of  hewn  cranite  upwards  of  TOO  feet  in  length  and 
80  in  width;  the  chamber  intended  for  line-of-battle  ships 
to  lie  in  is  200  feet  in  length,  by  t8  or  20  in  depth.  It 
has  double  gates,  an  outer  one  being  required  to  bieak  the 
motion  of  the  sea.  Two  line-of-battle  ships  and  a  large 
frigate  were  drawn  up  under  cover  of  the  sheds,  and  three 
other  vessels  of  war  lay  alongside  the  pier.  The  vessels 
on  the  stocks  were  in  the  some  state  of  forwardness  as 
those  at  the  other  Navy-yards,  and  could  be  prepared  for 
sea  in  a  few  weuks.  Not  a  workman  was  employed  about 
any  of  three  line-of-battle  ships  and  four  frigates  which 
I  saw  on  the  stocks  at  Washington,  Philadelphia,  Brook- 
lyn, and  Charlestown,  though  much  work  was  in  progress 
connected  with  other  branches  of  the  navy.  Within  a  short 
distance  of  the  Navy-yavd  is  Breed's  Hill,  i  i  which  tho 
memorable  battle  of  the  17th  of  June.  17  'as  fought; 
and ffenerally  known  by  the  name  of  Buiikt.  o  tlill,  which 
lies  Haifa  mile  to  the  north  west,  at  thi'  entrance  of  the  nar*  , 
row  neck  of  the  peninsula.  Beinu  sixty  feet  higher  than 
Breed's  Hill,  it  was  the  intention  oi  the  American  general 
to  defend  it ;  but  the  officer  entrusted  with  tho  charge  of 
the  troops,  through  some  mistake,  led  them  to  the  one  on 
the  point  of  the  peninsula,  within  range  of  the  British 
batteries. upon  Copp's  Hill  in  Boston.   The  redoubt  whicb< 


k  SDBALTERN'8  FURLOVOHi 


165 


they  thtew  up  during  the  night,  being  attacked  the  follow- 
ing day  by  the  royal  troops  under  the  command  of  Ge« 
nerals  Howe  and  Pigot,  wascarried  with  great  slaughter, 
after  a  most  determined  resistance  on  the  part  of  the  re^ 
volutionists.  In  the  redoubt,  on  the  summit  of  the  hill, 
and  on  the  spot  where  General  Warren  fell,  a  monument 
was  commenced  on  the  17th  of  June,  1826  ;  the  corner 
stone  was  laid  by  Lafayette,  but  was  subsequently  taken 
up  and  relaid,  the  foundation  not  being  deep  enough  to 
resist  the  action  of  the  frost.  For  the  last  three  or  four 
years  no  farther  progress  has  been  made,  though  the  entire 
side  of  the  hill  is  covered  with  the  requisite  materials  ; 
want  of  funds  is  the  reason  advanced  for  not  finishing  it ; 
but  a  stranger  would  imagine  that  such  a  city  as  Boston 
might  in  itself  contribute  more  than  there(}uisitesum:  at 
present  it  is  but  a  monument  of  the  inhabitants'  want  of 
spirit.  The  design  is  upon  a  grand  scale ;  an  obelisk  of 
granite,  50  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  320  feet  in 
height.  No  one  would  wish  to  deprive  the  Americana  of 
the  honour  of  their  victories ;  but  I  never  met  one  yet  who 
did  not  claim  Bunker's  Hill  as  a  splendid  triumph  over 
the  British  arms.  In  arguing  the  matter,  I  always  re- 
ferred  them  to  their  own  histories  of  the  war,  which  have 
the  candour  to  acknowledge  that  the  provincialists  retir* 
ed  from  the  position,  aAer  making  a  resistance  even  longer 
than  prudence  admitted.  The  works  of  the  Americans 
to  this  day  prove  how  ably  they  blockaded  the  town,  and 
a  scries  of  strong  redoubts  and  entrenchments  may  be 
easily  traced  for  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles,  from  Dor- 
chester HeiQ[hts  on  the  murgin  of  the  Bay  to  Winter  Hill 
on  the  Mystic  River. 

Two  miles  from  Charlestown  is  Harvard  College, 
which  was  founded  in  1H37,  and  took  its  name  from  its 
first  great  benefactor,  a  minister,  who  bequeathed  nearly 
800/.  to  it.  The  general  Court  of  Massacnusetts  had  ap- 
propriated  the  sum  of  400/.  towards  its  commencement  in 
103l>,  and  the  small  but  pretty  town  in  which  it  is  situat- 
ed was  called  Cambridge,  from  many  of  the  colonists  hav- 
ing been  educated  at  that  university  in  England.  It  is 
more  richly  endowed  than  any  other  in  the  States,  and, 
having  property  to  the  amount  of  about  000,000  dollars 


id6 


A  sobaltern'b  ¥VKL<maa. 


\ 


>  ( 186)000/. ),  is  considered  the  most  efficient  for  its  purpose. 
A  considerable  income  is  derived  from  the  bridges  lead- 
ing into  the  city,  the  proprietors  of  some  of  them  being 
bound  by  their  charters  to  pay  a  certain  annuity  to  the 
college  for  the  loss  of  the  income  derived  from  the  ferries, 
which  were  its  property.  The  halls,  six  in  number,  stand 
within  an  inclosure  of  eight  oi  ten  acres,  thickly  planted 
with  trees.  The  university  is  a  fine  granite  building,  and 
of  more  modern  date  than  the  rest,  which  are  of  brick, 
atid  have  rather  an  air  of  anticuiity,  arising  from  the  thick 
wooden  window  sashes,  small  square  panes  of  glass,  the 
numerous  attics,  and  roof  surmounted  by  a  wooden-  baU 
cony,  or  platform  and  railing. 

The  mill-dam  across  Charles  River's  Bay  is  one  of  th© 
most  interesting  objects  near  Boston ;  it  is  a  continuation 
of  Beacon-street,  which  forms  one  side  of  the  Common, 
and  connects  the  city  with  Brookline.  The  piers  is  of  solid 
materials,  and  \l  mile  in  length,  cutting  ofl' upwards  of 
000  acreA  of  land  over  which  the  tide*formerIy  flowed, 
and  by  which  means  a  great  water-power  has  been  ob- 
tained. A  second  dam  has  been  thrown  at  right  angles 
from  it  to  a  point  of  land  in  Roxbury,  dividing  the  600 
acres  into  two  reservoirs  of  rather  unequal  proportions; 
and  several  mills  have  been  erected  upon  this  second  dam, 
whose  wheels  are  kept  in  motion  by  sluice-ways  from  the 
upper  reservoir.  The  long  pier  in  the  upper  reservoir 
is  furnishud  with  six  pair  of  floodgates,  which,  moving 
upon  easy  pivots,  are  opened  at  high  water  by  the  force 
of  the  tide,  and  close  again  at  the  ebb.  The  lower  reser- 
voir is  also  furnished  with  similar  floodgates,  which  open 
at  low  and  close  at  high  wotcr.  Thus  the  mills  have  a 
fall  of  14  feet  from  the  upper  reservoir  (which  is  reple- 
nished every  tide)  into  tne  lower  one,  which  lets  off  the 
waste  water  at  the  lowest  ebb.  Charles  River,  also,  flows 
into  tho  upper  reservoir,  and  supplies  it  so  abundantly 
that  when  I  whs  at  the  floodi;ates  about  half-ebb  a  vast 
quantity  of  superfluous  water  was  rushing  over  them. 
The  cost  of  the  pier  was  350,000  dollars  (7:),0C0/.)  but 
does  not  appear  to  be  very  profitable  stock,  there  not  be- 
ing more  than  twelve  or  fourteen  mills,  although  ther« 


A  SUBALTERN'S  FURLOUGH. 


197 


is  space  for  one  hundred  upon  it,  and  it  has  been  finished 
eleven  years. 

The  Tremont  Theatre,  immediately  opposite  the  hotel, 
and  a  very  ornamental  building,  had  closed  for  the  season 
when  I  arrived;  but,  the  fanaticism  for  which  the  New- 
Englanders  were  formerly  so  barbarously  notorious  hav- 
ing soAened  down  to  true  religious  principles,  the  town 
now  supports  two  or  three  theatres,  though  the  first  was 
built  only  thirty-six  years  since.  Even  at  the  present  day 
such  innocent  amusements  are  forbidden  by  law  in  some 
of  the  States,  west  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains. 

One  afternoon  seeing  a  funeral  enter  the  Granary 
Burial-ground,  adjoining  the  Tremont  hotel,  so  called 
from  the  public  bread  store  having  formerly  stood  there, 
I  followed  it,  and,  walking  up  to  a  lofty  granite  obelisk 
surounded  by  trees,  discovered  it  was  to  the  memory 
of  Dr.  Franklin's  parents;  it  bore  the  following  inscrip- 
tion : — 

FRANKLIN. 


"  J08IAH  Franklik,  und  Auiah  his  wife,  lie  here  interred. 

They  lived  lovingly  together  in  wedlock  65  years, 

and  without  an  estutc,  or  any  gainful  employment, 

by  constant  labour  and  honest  industry, 

maintained     a   large    family    comfortably, 

Snd  brought  up  thirteen  children  and  seven  grand-children  i*- 

spectably ; 

80^  from  this  instance,  reader, 

bo  encouraged  todiligence  in  thy  ciilling,  and  distrust  not  Providence. 

Ho  was  a  pious  and  prudent  man. 

She   a   discreet   and    virtuous  woman. 

Their  youngest  son,  in  fllinl  regard  to  their  memories,  piacM 

this  stone. 

J.  F.  born  165A,  died  1744,  JE.  89. 

A.  P.   —   1667,  —  1768,  —  88. 

The  original  inscription  having  been  nearly  nbliterati.d,  a  number 

of  citlKens  erected  this  monument  as  a  mark  of  respect  for  tht  U- 

luitrious  author. 

MDCCOXXVII." 

Turning  round,  immediately  I  had  copied  the  abov«, 
which  could  not  have  occupied  mo  five  minutes,  to  my 
f  reat  surprise  the  funeral  party  had  disappeared,  and  tht 


I 

i    K'  I 


.'.! 


IBS 


subaltern's  FURLOUOtt. 


gates  were  agfain  locked;  so  I  had  no  alternative  but  to 
climb  the  wall,  and  leap  down  some  six  or  seven  feet  into 
the  street,  my  sudden  appearance  in  it  astonishing  some 
of  the  passers  by. 

The  materials  for  building  at  Boston  are  excellent, 
there  being  almost  inexhaustible  quarries  of  granite  at 
the  small  town  of  duincy  (the  birth  place  of  two  of  the 
Presidents  of  the  United  States,)  about  nine  miles  from 
the  city.  The  day  I  left  the  citv,  a  melancholy  accident 
occured  to  a  party  of  four  gentlemen  from  the  Tremont 
hotel,  upon  the  inclined  railway  connected  with  the  quar- 
ries, by  the  chain  to  which  the  car  was  attached  sudden* 
ly  breaking  when  it  had  arrived  within  a  short  distance 
of  the  summit :  the  carriage  descended  with  amazing  ve- 
locity until  it  struck  some  obstacle  at  the  bottom,  by  which 
they  were  all  thrown  out  with  such  violencie  that  one  was 
killed  upon  the  spot,  and  the  limbs  of  the  other  three  were 
severely  fractured. 

Brattle-street  Church,  where  I  attended  service,  was 
occupied  as  a  barrack  during  the  siege,  and  Governor 
Hancock's  name,  who  was  one  of  its  benefactors,  is  in- 
scribed upon  two  of  the  corner-stones  of  the  tower,  with 
the  date  of  27th  July,  1772.  One  of  the  inscriptions  bears 
the  marks  of  having  been  nearly  erased  by  the  bayonets 
of  the  British ;  and  a  nine-pounder  shot  still  remains  in 
the  tower  where  it  struck,  close  to  one  of  the  windows. 
It  was  fired  from  the  American  lines  the  evening  before 
the  city  was  evacuated,  and  evidently  intended  for  Ge- 
neral Gage's  quarters,  which  were  in  a  house  opposite 
the  church. 

Boston  is  often  called  "the  paradise  of  clergymen,"  and 
never  did  a  place  possess  such  a  proportion  of  churches; 
including  Charlestown,  it  has  not  fewer  than  six- 
ty ;  their  style  of  architecture  is  generally  neat.  Trinity 
Church,  which  has  not  been  lonff  built,  is  a  handsome 
and  substantial  edifice,  and  King  s  Chapel  ^or  the  stone- 
church,  as  some  of  the  republicans  call  it,)  m  which  the 
British  Governor's  pew  still  remains,  more  closely  ap- 
proach the  English  style  of  places  for  sacred  worship  than 
any  others  I  sn\v. 

The  hospitals  and  charitable  societies  are  very  nume- 


i.  SUBALTERN'S   flTRLOVOH. 


18t 


mtto 
tinto 
some 


rotts.  One  of  the  latter  is  very  creditable  to  the  British 
inhabitants  of  the  city :  it  was  established  for  the  purpose 
of  giving  advice  to  emigrants  upon  their  arrival  in  the 
country,  and  to  render  pecuniary  assistance  to  those  who 
may  require  it,  or  have  been  reduced  to  poverty  by  the 
failure  of  their  enterprise.  Though  established  only  fif- 
teen  years  it  has  given  relief  to  more  than  a  thousand 
British  subjects,  the  funds  being  created  by  annual  sub. 
scriptions  of  two  dollars  and  upwards.  The  Massachu- 
setts' General  Hospital,  which  was  commenced  about  the 
same  time  by  private  subscriptions,  is  a  fine  building^neaz 
one  of  the  Charlestown  bridges,  and  its  interior  economy 
well  arranged.  The  origin  of  the  hospital  was  the  be- 
quest by  a  gentleman  of  a  large  sum  of  money,  which 
was  added  to  by  a  general  subscription  throughout  the 
state,  and  so  far  exceeded  the  amount  requireid  that  the 
committee  built  a  lunatic  asylum  at  Charlestown  with  th© 
surplus.  Several  of  the  private  subscriptions  amounted 
to  from  1000  to  5O0O  dollars,  and  one  even  to  20,000. 

Leaving  Boston  on  the  26th  July  through  Brighton  and 
Newton  Lower-Falls,  and  to  Westborough,  over  a  fi^e 
sheet  of  water  by  means  of  a  floating  bridge,  I  arrived  fit 
the  pretty  town  of  Worcester  late  in  the  evening.  Th© 
road  ran  through  a  country  of  rather  improved  fertility, 
and  every  stream  was  taken  advantage  of  by  some  manu* 
factory.  Engineers  were  also  busy  along  the  whole  line 
of  it  in  surveying  and  marking  out  a  railway  which  was 
projected  from  Boston  to  Albany,  160  miles,  and  thus  a 
connected  line  of  communication  would  be  opened  be- 
tween Lake  Erie  and  the  Atlantic  at  Boston.  From  Wot« 
cester  to  Northampton  the  road  passes  through  a  fine,  bold 
country,  but  rocky  and  difficult  of  cultivation ;  the  hi^fh 
lands  and  sides  of  the  hills  being  set  apart  for  pasture, 
and  the  valleys  and  along  the  banks  of  the  rivulets,  where 
the  soil  was  ofa  more  fertile  quality,  for  the  growth  of  grain. 
This  State,  with  Connecticut  and  Pennsylvania,  has  the 
reputation  of  being  better  farmed  than  any  other;  the 
average  produce  being  from  25  to  30  bushels  of  Indian 
corn,  and  from  16  to  20  of  wheat  It  struck  me  that  the 
schools  were  much  more  numerous  than  in  the  other 
States  I  had  visited,  every  district  and  village  possessing 


190 


A  subaltern's  furlough. 


one,  which  generally  occupied  a  spot  on  the  road  side ; 
the  children  were  also  remarkable  for  their  decorum  of 
manners,  bowing  and  making  courtesies  to  the  passengers 
as  the  coach  passed.  I  observed  the  same  respect  paid  to 
well-dressed  people  in  most  parts  of  the  New-England 
States,  and  also  in  the  western  part  of  the  State  of  New- 
York.  In  the  first  code  which  was  passed  by  Connecti- 
cut in  1639,  six  years  after  the  first  settlement  of  the  co- 
lony, it  was  ordered  that  every  village  of  fifty  families 
should  maintain  a  good  school  for  reading  and  writing; 
and  the  same  law  is  also  established  in  Massachusetts. 

We  had  a  charming  view  of  the  fine  country,  with  Am- 
herst College  upon  an  eminence,  from  the  summit  of  a  hill 
a  few  miles  before  arriving  at  the  village  of  Hadley,  where 
the  regicide  judges  lived  after  their  retreat  had  been  dis- 
covered at  New-Haven.  It  is  related  that  when  the  village 
was  attacked,  during  Philip's  bloody  war  of  Itt75,  it  would 
have  probably  shared  the  fate  of  Brookfield  and  other 
towns  through  which  we  passed  on  the  road  from  Boston, 
but  for  the  timely  appearance  of  a  venerable  stranger,  who 
ibgr  bis  skill  in  military  tactics  and  encouragement  to  the 
troops  repulsed  the  Indians.  His  immediate  disappearance 
after  the  retreat  of  the  enemy  induced  the  superstitious 
inhabitants  t<i>  consider Hhat  he  was  their  guardian  angel, 
and  had  been  expnessly  sent  to  their  assistance.  It  was 
Colonel  GoflTe,  who,  in  the  emergency  of  the  case,  had 
ventured  to  leave  his  place  of  concealment  in  the  cellar 
of  the  minister's  house. 

Between  the  village  and  the  Connecticut  river,  two 
miles  distant,  are  rich  and  beautiful  meadows,  unconfined 
by  fences,  but  well  planted  with  fruit  trees,  and  being 
overflowed  by  the  spring  freshets,  which  leave  a  deposit, 
the  land  fs  as  productive  as  any  in  the  State.  A  wooden 
bridge  half  a  mile  ia  length,  crosses  the  river  into  the 
prettiest  of  American  towns,  Northampton.  Nowhere  did 
I  see  such  beautiful  villages  as  in  New  England,  of  which 
Concord  in  New  Hampshire,  Worcester  and  Northamp- 
ton, rank  pre-eminent.  The  situation  of  this  last  is  a 
charming  one,  in  a  rich  country,  upon  a  noble  river,  and 
•team  navigation  to  the  ocean.  The  streets  are  unlike 
any  thing  English.    Frame  houses  possess  a  neatness 


A  subaltern's  purlovoh. 


191 


and  cleanliness  of  appearance  which  it  is  impossible  to 
impart  to  our  heavy  town  abodes ;  and,  as  the  material 
of  which  they  are  built  can  be  moulded  into  more  elegant 
forms,  the  American  houses  are  generally  ornamented 
with  light  balconies  and  porticos,  supported  by  columns 
of  the  Doric  or  Corinthian  order.  I  thought  Northamp- 
ton the  most  delightful  and  enviable  place  I  had  ever 
seen;  it  is  the  very  realization  of  a  "rus  inurbe"  the 
streets  being  so  thickly  planted  with  trees  of  a  primeval 
growth  that  their  boughs  are  almost  interwoven  across 
the  road,  and  the  neat  private  dwellings  and  shops  beneath 
them  appear  like  a  series  of  cottages  and  gardens.  The 
town  has  been  settled  nearly  180  years,  and  contains 
above  2000  inhabitants.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
which  is  crossed  at  South  Hadley  by  a  horse  ferry,  two 
miles  distant,  is  Mount  Holyoke,  1070  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  river,  and  a  favourite  resort  of  travellers  and 
parties  of  pleasure.  Seven  carriages,  filled  principally 
with  ladies,  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  mount  at  the  same 
time  as  myself  The  road  winds  along  the  side  of  it 
through  a  dense  forest  of  trees,  until  within  400  feet  of 
the  summit,  where  i^  is  necessary  to  dismount  and  clamber 
over  rough  loose  stones  and  logs  of  wood  for  the  remain- 
ing distance.  But  the  scene  which  bursts  upon  the  spec- 
tator's view,  as  he  steps  upon  the  bare  black  rock  on  the 
summit — a  scene  of  sublime  beauty,  of  which  but  an  in- 
adequate description  could  be  conveyed — amply  repays 
him  for  his  trouble  and  fatigue.  A  more  charming  day 
could  not  have  been  desired :  it  was  one  of  those  clear  Ame- 
rican atmospheres  which  are  unknown  in  our  own  hazy 
clime,  with  just  sufficient  light  floating  clouds  to  throw 
a  momentary  shadow  over  parts  of  the  rich  vale,  which 
lay  spread  out  beneath  in  all  the  various  hues  of  a  quickly 
ripening  harvest.  Innumerable  white  houses,  ana  spires 
of  churches,  were  seen  scattered  amongst  the  trees  and 
along  the  banks  of  the  smooth  but  rapid  Connecticut  ^up 
which  a  solitary  steamer  was  slowly  creeping,)  which 
river  in  its  fantastic  and  capricious  windings  returned 
within  a  few  yards  of  the  same  spot,  after  watering  two 
or  three  miles  of  the  vale — o^,  after  being  concealed  at 
intervals  by  the  hills  and  woods,  would  again  appear 


Yds 


A  6UBALTfeRN*S  rVRLO'VOll 


Krith  its  silvery  surface  glistening  amidst  the  dark  foM&ffi 
at  the  distance  of  many  miles.  These  objects,  and  above 
all,  the  high  and  rocky  mountains,  contrasted  with  the 
smiling  vmleys,  altogether  formed  one  of  the  most  mag* 
nificent  panoramas  in  the  world.  Places  160  miles  apart 
from  each  other  were  distinctly  visible.  I  soon  recog*^ 
nized  the  bluff  rocks  near  New-Haven,  at  eighty  miles 
distance,  though  only  400  feet  in  height,  and  could  ea- 
sily trace  their  rugged  and  bold  outline  lipon  the  clear 
horizo^n. 

I  had  carried  my  pencils  and  sketch-book  up  with  me; 
but  did  not  even  presume  to  take  them  from  my  pocket. 
So,  after  having  feasted  my  eyes  for  the  space  of  an  hour 
I  went  into  the  small  frame  house  which  is  on  the  sum> 
mit,  for  something  more  substantial.  The  occupant,  or 
rather  tenant,  as  he  pays  a  rent  of  100  dollars  per  annum 
for  the  spot  of  ground,  might  be  an  old  sailor,  from  th« 
extravagant  price  he  charges  for  refreshments ;  but,  in 
my  opinion,  his  money  is  well-earned,  as  he  ascends 
the  mountain  daily  from  the  village  at  its  foot.  The  table 
in  the  room  was  covered  with  a  number  of  books,  mis- 
named albums,  in  which  every  visitor,  who  has  been  eithef 
in  a  sentimental,  witty,  or  meditative  mood,  has  thought 
proper  to  record  the  workings  of  his  mind,  which  wen* 
generally  bombastic  descriptions  of  the  view,  winding  up 
with  a  moral  lecture.  I  sympathized  deeply  with  one  poor 
poet,  who  had  departed  from  the  usual  line,  with 

*'  O  great  CMympus,  kit  Northampton's  pride, 

How  hot  it  is  to  travel  up  thy  side ! 
Hail  mighty  mount,  grand  ueucon  of  our  sphere ! 

I  wonder  hbsv  the  d — 1 1  got  here  !'• 

But  many  Smiths  and  Thompsons,  more  ambitious  of 
transmitting  their  n^mes  to  remotest  posterity,  had  with 
laudable  zeal  engraven  their  names  upon  the  hard  rock. 
The  descent  is  even  more  difficult  than  the  ascent,  being 
so  precimtous.  When  I  regained  the  spot  where  I  had 
tied  my  horse,  an4  found  it  quietly  standing  there,  I  could 
hot  but  admire  the  complete  manner  in  which  he  was 
trained.  Arriving  at  the  skirts  of  the  wood,  and  imagin- 
ing that,  from  this  point,  I  could  take  a  good  sketch  of 


▲  subaltern's  rVRLOVOB. 


m 


llie  rich  vale,  with  Northampton,  and*  mountain  in  the 
Wck-ground,  I  dismounted,  and  placing  the  bridle  over 
a  post  in  the  fence,  sat  down  upon  the  grass,  and  com- 
menced the  preliminary  operations ;  but,  hearing  a  noise 
I  turned  round  and  perceived  that  my  well-trained  steed 
which  evidently  had  not  been  accustomed  to  this  second 
part  of  the  day  s  performance,  had  broken  the  bridle,  and 
was  galloping  on  at  full  speed.  Gathering  up  my  pen- 
cils and  rubber,  I  pursued,  and  at  last  succeeded  in  driv- 
ing him  up  into  the  angle  of  a  worm-fence,  where  he 
took  up  a  most  impregnable  position,  defending  it  as  reso- 
lutely with  his  heels.  To  add  to  my  discomfiture,  some 
ladies  with  whom  I  had  been  conversing  on  the  summit 
of  the  mountain  came  down  at  the  moment  I  was  busily 
engaged  in  reconnoitring  the  ground,  prior  to  making 
an  attack  to  the  best  possible  advantage;  and  seeing  them 
laughing  heartily,  I  felt  myself  in  honour  bound  (lest 
they  should  imagine  that  I  had  been  thrown)  to  walk 
up  and  explain  the  merits  of  the  case  to  them.  After 
much  manoeuvring,  I  succeeded  in  securing  him,  and, 
tying  the  bridle  on  with  my  handkerchief,  returned  to 
Northampton  without  the  intended  sketch. 

Proceeding  west,  the  road  passes  through  a  mountain- 
ous and  only  partialljr  cleared  country,  with  fine  groves 
of  noble  hemlock,  which  appeared  to  be  fast  diminishing 
in  number  from  the  bark  being  used  for  tanning  leather. 
We  were  five  hours  and  a  half  upon  the  road  from  North- 
ampton to  Worthington,  though  only  nineteen  miles. 
From  Pittsfield  (where  an  agricultural  show  has  been 
established  upwards  of  twenty  years,  and  takes  place  an- 
nually in  October,  the  road  ascends  a  hill  of  considera- 
ble height.  Being  formed  on  the  side  of  the  hill,  the 
foundation  on  the  outer  edge  is  made  with  trees  laid  cl6se 
together,  covered  with  earth,  and  no  protection  for  a  car- 
riage against  falling  over  the  side,  but  some  weak  rails, 
generally  composed  of  small  trees  laid  horizontally  in 
the  fork  of  others  fixed  upright  in  the  ground,  form- 
ing a  very  inefficient  fence  against  the  precipice  close  to 
which  the  coach  passes.  I  congratulated  myself  upon 
arriving  safely  at  the  summit  with  a  fine  view  of  the 
CatskilT  Mountains  in  the  distance,  and  the  village  in  the 

VOL.  I. — R. 


IM 


A  SUBALTERN  8  IVRLOUOR 


valley  of  Lebanon,  two  miles  beneath  us.  The  road  was 
however,  even  more  steep  than  on  the  other  side  we  as- 
cended; and  having  a  hea/y  load  on  the  coach,  and  as 
usual  in  America,  no  slipper  on  the  wheel,  we  descended 
the  hill  with  such  frightful  speed  that,  whirling  round  a 
sharp  turn  (where  the  road  too  had  an  inclination  out- 
wards,) the  vehicle  lost  its  equilibrium,  the  passengers 
screamed  out  and  over  it  went.  I  would  not  at  that  mo- 
ment  have  given  half  a  dollar  to  insure  all  our  lives.  I 
saw  the  tops  of  the  trees  far  below,  and  thought  nothing 
could  save  us  from  perching  amongst  their  boughs.  The 
rails  gave  way  with  a  crash,  when  I  was  surprised  by  a 
sudden  and  violent  shock,  occasioned  by  the  coach  falling 
on  the  friendly  stump  of  a  tree  which  checked  us  in  our 
course.  The  vehicle  in  part  overhanc^ing  the  precipice, 
carpet  bags  and  mail  bags,  trunks  and  hat  boxes  were  to 
be  seen  rolling  down  the  hill  to  the  depth 'of  160  feet. 
Reguluji  of  old  could  not  have  had  a  more  uncomfortable 
descent  in  his  barrel  than  we  should  have  had,  if  the  coach 
had  been  two  or  three  feet  farther  on  either  side  of  the 
stump.  There  were  eight  passengers  of  no  light  weight 
inside,  and  I  was  one  of  those  who  were  undermost.  A 
strong  voice  called  out  above  me,  ••  Never  mind,  there's 
no  one  hurt."  '•  Thank  you,"  said  a  smothered  tone, 
"  but  there  a'int  'casion  to  speak  for  ma,  I  guess."  As 
soon  as  I  could  extricate  myself  from  the  confused  mass 
of  arms  and  legs,  and  scramble  out  of  one  of  the  windows 
I  began  to  shako  myself  to  discover  what  broken  limbs  1 
had  ;  but  finding  only  a  sprained  thumb,  ditto  leg,  and 
one  or  two  contusions  on  the  ribs,  and  that  none  of  my 
companions  were  much  more  ii^ured,  I  began  to  searcn 
for  my  baggage. 

Wo  had  just  raised  the  shattered  coach  again,  when 
somu  people  who  had  seen  it  upset  from  the  Lebanon 
springs  j^nlloped  up,  expecting  to  find  half  the  pns.sen- 
ffcrs  killed ;  m  an  hour  more  I  was  in  the  Columbia  hall 
hotel. 


A^w    -'• 


▲  SUBALTERN^  FURLOVOH 


196 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

By  y6ur  prieathood,  tell  me  what  you  are ! 


DONNI. 


At  Manchester,  in  England,  this  burning  truth  bistfan, 
When  Christ  made  his  appearance  in  blessed  Mother  Ann. 
A  few  at  first  received  it,  and  did  their  lusts  forsake, 
And  soon  their  testimony  brought  on  a  mighty  shake. 

For  Mother's  safe  protection,  good  angels  flew  before, 
Towards  the  land  of  promise,  Columbia's  happy  shore ; 
Hail  thou  victorious  GospeL  and  that  auspicious  day 
When  Mother  safely  landed  in  North  America ! 

"  Memorial  to  Mothir  Ann." 

The  company  at  the  Lebanon  springs  during  the  season 
IS  made  up  of  the  same  kind  of  people  as  at  Cneltenham, 
or  any  of  our  fashionable  watermg  places.  Some  come 
to  get  rid  of  their  daughters ;  others  to  get  rid  of  their 
complaints ;  others,  again,  to  avoid  the  sickness  of  the 
south ;  and  the  rest  are  composed  of  travellers,  fortune- 
hunters,  pleasure  seekers,  and  the  odds  and  ends  of 
society.  The  Shakers*  village,  two  miles  distant,  proves, 
however,  a  great  attraction.  On  the  29th  of  July,  I  at- 
tended their  Sunday  meeting,  which  was  held  in  a  large 
buildins;  by  the  road  side,  containing  a  finely  proportioned 
room  of  80  by  60  feet,  with  arched  ceiling,  well  calculated 
for  sound,  and  a  beautifully  white  floor,  with  scarcely  a 
knot  upon  its  surface.  There  were  two  doors  in  the 
front  of  the  room,  the  gentlemen  visitors  entering  at  the 
one  and  the  ladies  at  the  other ;  while  the  members  of 
the  Society  made  their  appearance  separately  also,  the 
men  by  a  door  at  the  south,  and  the  women  by  one  at  the 
no^-th  end  of  the  buildinff.  Elevated  seats  for  the  visitors 
occupied  one  side  of  the  room,  a  rail  dividing  the  two 
sexes.  1  sat  very  impatiently  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  before  the  Society  assembled,  when  thoT  occupied 
two  rows  of  benches  facing  each  other,  a  slight  opening 
between  two  boards  in  the  floor  forming  the  boundary 
line  The  men  were  dressed  in  drab  coats,  quaker 
fi^shion,  but  with  a  rolling  collar,  old-fashioned  dark  waist- 


106 


▲  subaltern's  rURLOUOH. 


coats  reaching  as  low  as  the  hips,  and  gray  trowsers  of 
striped  cotton  or  linen,  the  hair  cut  short  in  front,  and  al- 
lowed to  grow  a  considerable  length  at  the  back  of  the 
head ;  the  women  in  white  gowns,  with  large  muslin  caps 
which  concealed  their  profile,  and  high-heeled  shoes. 
Both  sexes  entered  with  a  singular  kind  of  springing 
step,  as  if  walking  upon  the  toes.     The  total  number  of 
members,  including  two  people  of  colour,  might  have 
been  860,  of  which  130  were  males.     Amongst  them 
were  30  or  40  children  from  ten  to  fifteen  years  of  age ; 
the  rest  were  from  thirty  to  seventy :  but  I  scarcely  ob* 
served  any  who  appeared  between  those  two  periods. 
Most  of  them  entered  without  their  coats,  and  the  day 
beinff  warm,  all  had  their  waistcoats  unbuttoned,  so  as  to 
display  a  clean  long  white  neckcloth  and  shirt,  with  a 
narrow  piece  of  green  riband  encirclinff  the  arm  above 
the  elbow.    The  service  commenced  by  the  whole  society 
rising  ai^d  removing  the  benches  to  the  side  of  the  room. 
Both  sexes  then  advanced  towards  the  line  of  demarcation 
in  a  close  column,  showing  a  front  of  16  by  8  deep,  but 
in  oblique  lines,  so  that  the  feet  of  the  two  people  on  the 
inner  flank  were  within  a  few  inches  of  the  boundary  line, 
while  those  on  the  outer  were  six  paces  apart.  An  elder, 
stepping  out,  addressed  them  in  a  few  words,  standing 
with  his  back  to  the  wall,  his  feet  upon  the  line,  and 
fronting  the  open  space  between  the  two  parties.     He 
spoke  m  so  Iowa  tone  of  voice  that  I  could  scarcely  catch 
the  import  of  his  words,  but  understood  him  to  say  that 
*'  they  nad  assembled  there  to  pray,"  and  recommending 


**  suitable  exercise;"  when,  resuming  his  place,  the 
members  sang  a  hymn,  moving  their  feet  in  time  with 
the  air,  which  was  a  strange  composition,  equally  unin* 
telligible  and  monotonous  as  an  Indian  cnant  at  the 
feast  of  the  Mohorum,  or  a  Burman  boat  song  as  I  have 
heard  it  on  the  Irawaddi,  to  which  it  bore  no  slight  re* 
semblance.  When  it  was  concluded,  they  knelt  in  silence 
for  a  few  minutes,  and,  after  rising,  another  elder  address* 
ed  us,  saying,  "  He  trusted  we  should  behave  with  pro- 
priety ana  decency,  as  decent  people  ought,  and  recollect 
that  we  were  in  a  house  of  worship,  though  we  were  not 
believers  of  the  same  Atith :  an  address,  mdeed  that  wat 


A  SUBALTKRN't  7    ILOVOH. 


197 


much  required;  for  I  could  n-  divest  myself  of  the  idea 
that  we  were  in  a  theatre,  and,  had  any  one  set  the  exam- 
ple, I  have  but  little  doubt  there  would  have  been  a  bois- 
terous round  of  applause.  In  truth  we  were  but  mere 
spectators :  none  took  any  part  in  the  service,  but  re- 
mained as  immoveable  and  attentive  to  the  proceedings 
before  them  as  they  would  if  viewing  any  novelty  in  a 

Slace  of  public  amusement.  The  rest  of  the  men  now 
[vested  themselves  of  their  coats,  hanging  them  upon 
pegs  in  the  wall,  and  each  of  the  women  laid  the  white 
handkerchief  she  had  held  in  her  hand  upon  the  benches ; 
indications  that  they  were  about  to  set  to  in  good  earnest. 
Two  rows  of  about  forty  persons  stood  with  their  backs 
to  the  wall,  the  remainder  forming  a  column  fronting 
them  at  some  distance.  The  former  party  struck  up  a 
lively  air,  with  some  words  attached  to  it,  fall  that  I  could 
distinguish  were,  "  I  will  be  truly  good,''  frecjuently  re- 
peated,) and  the  latter  commenced  dancing  in  correct 
time,  advancing  three  steps ;  then  balancing  three,  and 
retiring  again,  advanced  as  before,  turning  round  at  in- 
tervals in  the  tune  in  a  style  which  a  quadrille  dancer 
might  even  be  proud  of.  The  singers  throughout  the 
time  kept  their  arms  close  to  their  bodies,  with  the  lower 
part  of  them  projecting  out,  and  moving  their  hands  up 
and  down  (I  hope  I  shall  be  excused  for  making  an  ab- 
surd but  striking  simile,)  like  so  many  kangaroos  stand- 
ing upon  their  hind  legs.  Upon  the  whole,  it  was  a  most 
singular  scone :  old  and  young  were  dancing  away  with- 
out their  coats,  as  if  it  had  been  a  matter  of  life  and 
death ;  while  the  room,  containing  not  fewer  than  six 
or  seven  hundred  people,  was  hot  to  suffocation.  Though 
the  women  exerted  themselves  most  laboriously,  they 
were  (owing  to  their  dress,  I  presume)  as  pale  ana  ghast- 
ly as  so  many  shroudiid  bodies  or  living  corpses, — an 
ippearanco  they  wished  to  assume,  I  shoiud  imagine,  as 
not  being  very  inviting  to  the  eyes  of  "  the  world's  peo- 
ple," as  they  term  us  oUi-fnshioncd  folks.  I  overheard 
one  of  a  party  of  younff  men  sitting  in  rear  of  me,  who 
could  not  at  all  contain  themselves,  "  he  had  snen  an 
Egyptian  mummy  look  handsomer  than  any  of  them." 
1  could  not,  however,  agree  with  him  upon  that  score ; 


m 


A  80BALTCRN*!  FVRLOVOH. 


for  there  were  two  or  three  pair  of  very  pretty  dark  tyea, 
with  some  finely-formed  features.  One  young  giri,  in 
particular,  about  eighteen  or  twenty  years  of  age,  who 

Said  much  more  attention  to  the  spectators  than  to  her 
evotions,  would  doubtless  have  been  well  pleased  to  n- 
gain  her  former  place  in  the  world.  She  was  in  the  last 
row  of  females,  so  that  no  one  could  overlook  her  mo- 
tions;  and  all  the  young  people  were  similarly  disposed 
of  Those  who  formed  the  first  row,  and  who  were  con- 
fronted  face  to  face  with  the  men,  were  the  oldest  and 
ugliest  of  the  party  :  a  dangerous  post  like  this  was  not 
assigned  to  young  people,  with  such  eyes  as  interpreters, 
an  elopement  havmg  occasionally  talcen  place,  much  to 
the  dismay  of  the  elders. .  A  respectable,  middle-aged 
man,  who  had  received  the  visitors  and  shown  them  to 
their  seats  with  great  civility,  took  no  part  in  the  per- 
formance of  the  above  ceremonies,  but  passed  his  time  in 
observing  the  effect  such  a  singular  show  had  upon  the 
audienbe.  After  the  Society  had  finished  their  first  dance 
and  song,  he  came  up  directly  in  front  of  me,  and  said, 
"  he  had  seen  two  or  tnree  young  men  talking  and  laugh- 
ing, as  if  they  were  in  a  theatre  or  ball-room."  All  eyes 
were  turned  tnatanter  in  my  direction ;  but,  fortunately 
for  my  credit,  the  speaker  particularized  them,  and  I  dis- 
covered they  were  the  •'  Egyptian  Mummy"  party.  He 
continued  his  lecture  by  telling  them,  "if  they  wished  to 
laugh,  to  walk  out  upon  the  floor,  and  allow  every  one  to 
see  them ;  if  they  had  any  thing  to  say,  let  every  one  hear 
what  it  was;  that  the  rest  of  the  visitors  had  behaved 
respectably  and  with  propriety,  and  had  his  thanks  for  to 
doing;  but  that,  for  these  young  men,  they  conducted 
themselves  worse  than  heathens,  who  have  some  respect 
for  the  religion  of  others;  that  they  deserved  reprimand- 
ing, and  that  ho  reprimanded  them  accordingly."  The 
The  young  men  looked  much  abashed,  and  took  nn  early 
opportunity  of  retiring.  The  Society  afterwords  formed 
ft  column  of  live  in  front,  with  fourteen  members  in  the 
centre  of  tho  room,  who  sang  «omo  words  to  o  tune  like 
"  Ynnkfo  doodle,"  the  colnmu  stepping  offnt  quick  time, 
and  marchinj?  round  the  room  os  correctly  as  any  well- 
drilled  battalion,  changing  step  whun  necessary,  and,  if 


jt.\ 


A  SVBALTIRN's  rVRLOUOB 


190 


any  one  fell  out  in  front,  his  place  was  immediately  oc* 
cupied  by  some  one  from  tho  rear.  They  beat  time  by 
moving  their  hands  up  and  down  as  before  described, 
clapping  them  in  certain  parts  of  the  tune.  After  thui 
marching  round  several  times^  they  halted,  and,  the  inner 
files  of  two  (kcing  about,  a  brisk  air  was' struck  uj;>,  and 
they  moved  off  affain  in  different  directions,  circling 
round  the  room,  haltiiig  and  singing  in  the  slow  parts  of 
the  air ;  then  quickening  their  pace  almost  to  a  run  at  the 
more  lively  parts.  Altogether  1  scarcely  ever  saw  so  dif. 
ficult  or  so  well-performed  a  field  day.  They  had  been 
evidently  well  arilled,  or  they  coula  not  have  acquired 
such  skill  in  manoeuvring ;  for  there  was  such  a  series 
of  marching  and  countermarching,  slow  step,  auick 
step,  and  double  quick  step,  advancing  and  retiring,  form- 
ing  open  column  and  close  column,  perpendicular  lines 
and  oolique  lines,  that  it  was  sufficient  to  puzxle  and 
confound  the  clearest  head  of  the  lookers  on. 

Afler  a  hard  hour's  work,  the  first  speaker,  who  had 
requested  us  "  to  behave  with  decency,"  again  came  for- 
ward, and  spoke  to  the  following  effect :  "  Friends,  I  wish 
to  say  a  few  words  to  you.  No  doubt  what  you  have  seen 
to-day  appears  vastly  strange — a  mode  of  worshipping 
the  Almighty  altogether  new  to  you ;  and  I  am  net  sur- 
prised that  It  should  appear  strange,  '  The  way  of  the 
Lord  is  foolishness  with  man.'  I  asked  your  attention 
and  good  conduct  before  we  commenced ;  some  few  have 
not  behaved  well — far  from  it  indeed,  but  I  am  not  even 
surprized  at  that.  They  probably  despised  us  and  laughed 
at  us  in  scorn  and  derision.  TVc,  however,  are  satisfied : 
we  weli  know  that  we  are  in  the  right  jath,  that  the  Lora 
is  pleased  and  is  reconciled  with  us.  Works  speak  for 
themselves,  and  the  tree  is  known  by  its  fruit ;  we  there- 
fore foar  not  the  taunts  of  men.  There  are,  however,  so 
many  sects,  so  many  various  forms  of  relij^ion,  so  many 
crying  out  '  this  is  the  right  way,'  and  '  this  is  the  ri^hl 
way,'  that  those  seeking  the  truth  scarcely  know  which 
way  to  turn ;  but  if  you  wish  to  be  saved,  if  anyof  you  feel 
you  have  need  of  salvation  (and  'the  physician  is  only  re- 
quired by  the  sick')  it  is  hen  onlu  to  be  round — thii  is  th« 
onlv  true  path ;  amongst  these  onlu,  these  the  true  disciples 


SNM 


A  tUBALTIRN's  VURLOUOH 


0 


of  Christ,  who  follow  his  glorious  exainole  in  taking  up  a 
dailv  cross,  and  denying  themselves  tne  things  of  this 
world.  I  have  no  doubt  some  of  you  despise  us,  and  that 
all  of  you  profess  to  be  religious,  and  all  ruarljf  determine 
upon  repenting  of  your  sins,  and  leading  anew  life;  but 
day  after  day  is  tms  hour  of  reformation  put  ofi!  It  is 
delayed  time  after  time  until  some  more  convenient  op* 
portunity.  We  desire  your  happiness,  we  pray  for  your 
good,  but  we  cannot  flatter  vou — not  one  of  you  mil  be 
eaved,  unless  you  abstain  Kom  the  lust  of  the  flesh,  all 
sin  and  worldly  desires,  and  shun  the  eye,  the  pride  of 
life — the  eye,  the  pride  of  life." — The  speaker  here  be- 
came quite  violent,  stampinff  with  his  feet,  and  holding 
out  his  clenched  hand  while  ne  repeated  the  last  sentence, 
lookinfif  hard  at  the  lady  spectators.  "  Whence  arises  all 
sin,  all  deadly  and  barbarous  wars? — whence  this  sick- 
ness which  now  desolates  the  land  ?  Let  those,  then, 
who  wish  to  be  saved,  forsake  those  things  which  sepa- 
rate the  ?oul  from  God.  Cease  to  do  evil,  and  vou  will 
learn  to  do  good ;  imitate  us  in  taking  Christ  for  a  pat- 
tern, and  you  will  then  assuredly  find  salvation." 

His  address  lasted  about  twenty  minutes,  and  was  de- 
livered with  great  energy ;  but  he  vms  an  illiterate  man, 
and  could  scarcely  speak  correct  English — evidentlv  la- 
bouring, too,  under  o-reat  difflculty  from  want  of  words  to 
express  himself,  and  his  whole  discourse  abounded  with 
tautology.  I  was  rather  alarmed  lest  he  should  observe 
me  takmg  notes  of  his  lecture;  for,  had  he  only  cast  eyes 
upon  me,  I  should  have  received  no  gentle  reprimand. 
After  another  song,  the  meeting  broke  up,  having  lasted 
an  hour  and  a  half 

I  had  some  conversation  immediately  afterwards  with 
one  of  the  elders,  who  appeared  a  sensible  well-informed 
man.  He  stated  that  the  Society  at  this  village  consisted 
of  600  people,  but  that  not  more  than  a  third  ever  at- 
tended service  together,  excepting  once  a  year,  when  all 
assembled.  In  answer  to  my  inquiries,  he  said  that  they 
had  received  an  addition  of  100  members  within  the  last 
two  years,  many  of  whom  were  English.  I  had  observed 
two  very  stout,  ruddy  faced,  farmer-looking  men,  who,  he 
if  aid,  had  only  just  arrived  from  my  native  country.  One 


▲  SUBALTERN'S   FURLOUGH. 


801 


was  the  rery  j^rototype  of  Friar  Tuck,  and  it  would  be  a 
considerable  time  before  he  exchanged  his  fiit  cheeks  for 
the  long  demure  face  of  the  rest  of  the  Society.  The  other 
danced  round  the  room,  swinging  his  hands  about,  and 
bellowing  at  ihe  full  extent  of  his  voice,  as  if  he  was  still 
tripping  it  at  some  English  village  wake.  'Tis  said 
'*tnere  is  nothing  new  under  the  sun ;"  but  it  seems 
strange  that  such  fanaticism  should  exist  with  so  much 
zeal  and  good  religious  feeling. 

The  village  is  remarkable  for  the  neatness  and  cleanli- 
ness of  the  houses.  The  school  is  well  conducted,  and 
the  children  educated  in  it  generally  possess  a  superior 
education  to  those  elsewhere.  After  acquiring  the  age  of 
maturity,  they  are  under  no  obligation  to  remain  with  the 
Society,  but  are  free  to  return  to  the  world ;  nor  are  they 
allowed  rashly  to  enlist  under  the  banners  of  "  the  be< 
lievers,"  but  must  seriously  take  the  matter  into  consi* 
deration,  and  even  undergo  a  noviciate  of  some  months, 
when,  if  still  of  the  same  opinion,  they  are  admitted  and 
enjoy  the  same  privileges  as  the  other  members.  At  any 
time  indeed  they  may  withdraw,  but  cannot  claim  any 
compensation  for  the  time  they  may  have  worked  upon 
the  lands  of  the  Society,  nor,  should  they  have  thrown 

S-operty  into  the  common  stock,  can  they  reclaim  it, 
ough  none  that  have  as  yet  withdrawn  have  gone  away 
empty-handed.  The  principal  rules  of  the  Society  are 
celibacy,  non-interference  with  politics,  peace  with  all  man* 
kind,  and  paving  to  every  man  his  due ;  nor  will  thoy  be 
answerable  tor  the  debts  of  any  of  the  Society,  or  admit 
any  one  as  a  member  who  has  not  honestly  discharged 
all  his  pecuniary  debts.  No  one,  except  in  cose  of  sick* 
ness  or  infirmity,  is  allowed  to  become  a  burthen  on  the 
Society;  but  all  must  work,  and  all  property  is  in  common, 
the  fruits  of  their  labour  being  thrown  into  a  general  fund. 
The  women  are  employed  in  knitting  gloves,  making  Ain* 
oy  ornaments,  and  spinning,  while  the  men  follow  various 
trades,  the  goods  being  exposed  for  sale  at  the  trustee's 
office :  every  article  is  of  the  best  quality,  but  the  price 
is  exceedingly  high.  The  woman  who  sold  me  what  few 
tilings  I  bought  used  as  many  persuasives  os  the  most 
ecperieuced  shopkeeper  in  England,  with  the  true  "will 


i,' 


I  I 


90H 


A  aVBiLLTBRN's  FURLOVftH. 


you  look  at  this,  sir) — this  is  an  excellent  article  "  and 
*'  these  gloves  wear  remarkably  well;  you  had  better  take 
a  pair,  sir."  They  possess  about  30(K)  acres  of  well-cul- 
tivated land  adjoining  the  village,  and  extensive  gardsns 
for  rearing  seeds,  which  produce  a  considerable  income, 
being  in  great  demand  throughout  the  States.  Th^  So- 
ciety is  governed  by  two  elders  of  each  sex,  elected  by  the 
members.  Their  duty  is  to  give  information  to  candid 
inquirers,  and  to  admit  those  who  desire  to  unite  them- 
selves to  the  Society ;  also  occasionally  to  preach  the 
gospel.  The  entire  body  is  divided  into  fiumilies  from  80 
to  100  members  each,  who  again  appoint  two  elders  as 
their  head,  whose  duty  it  is  to  manage  the  temporal  con- 
cerns of  the  family.  Their  houses  are  large,  commo- 
dious, and  substantial  brick  buildings,  four  stories  in 
height. 

The  Society  is  also  divided  into  three  classes :  1st, 
those  who  do  not  assent  to  the  rule  of  celibacy,  but  re- 
aide  at  a  distance  from  thevillage  with  their  own  families 
attending  worship,  and  otherwise  conforming  to  the  rules, 
ddly,  Those  who  are  members,  but  can  return  to  the 
world's  people  whenever  they  think  fit;  and  3dly,  those 
who,  vowing  to  remain  members  in  perpetuum,  have  en- 
tirely given  themselves  up  as  followers  of  the  faith.  They 
all  live  in  a  remarkably  comfortable  manner,  even  well,  in 
the  sense  of  the  world,  with  whose  people,  however,  they 
will  not  eat  in  company;  but,  when  some  of  them  rode  up 
to  the  springs  in  a  car,  they  showed  that  they  possessed 
a  taste  for  the  good  things  of  this  life,  as  well  as  the  rest 
of  mankind,  by  sitting  dovvn,  taking  a  glass  of  brandy  and 
water,  smoking,  and  conversing  cheermlly.  Two  or  three 
backsiidings  have  occurred  amongst  the  young  members, 
who  have  eloped,  proving  they  were  not  invulnerable  to 
the  shafts  of  that  little  urchin  Cupid ;  and  I  shrewdly 
suspect  that  many  others  would  not  be  at  all  backward 
in  following  the  same  example,  did  but  an  opportunity 
occur.  The  sect,  however,  gains  ground  considerably, 
and  there  are  not  fewer  than  6000  Shakers  in  the  United 
States,  though  it  is  but  fifty-nine  years  since  Mrs.  Lee,  or 
*'  Mother  Ann,"  as  she  is  called,  emigrated  from  England 
0he  wit9  a  native  of  Manchester,  and  married  to  a  black- 


A  BVBALTBRN'b  rVRLOVOH. 


203 


smith  in  that  town,  and  is  considered  the  founder  of  the 
sect,  though  several  people  had  formed  themselves  into  a 
Society  following  the  same  mode  of  worship  as  early  as 
1747-  She  was  an  illiterate  woman,  unable  either  to 
read  or  write.  The  cruel  persecutions  she  suffered  in 
England  on  account  of  her  religious  opinions  induced  her 
to  embark,  with  her  husband  and  others  of  the  same  per- 
suasion for  America,  in  1774,  where  she  established  herself  | 
near  Albany,  twenty-five  miles  from  Lebanon,  removing 
to  the  latter  place  some  few  years  af^er,  and  dying  in 
1784,  in  her  forty-eighth  year.  Lebanon  is  now  the  head 
of  the  Shaking  church.  That  such  a  sect  is  not  well  cal- 
culated for  a  young  and  thinly  inhabited  country  is  self- 
evident  ;  for  though  by  their  sobriety,  good  &ith,  honest 
and  upright  conduct,  they  set  an  example  to  the  rest  of 
mankmd  worthy  of  imitation,  and  most  of  their  regu- 
lations are  founded  upon  highly  moral  and  admirable 
principles,  yet  others  are  fallacious,  and  the  argument 
upon  which  they  rest  is  altogether  untenable.  They  hold 
that  the  millennium  has  commenced,  and  that  all  the  hu- 
man race  is  to  be  extinct  by  conforming  to  their  first 
great  precept  of  celibacy.  Without  such  a  fundamental 
rule,  indeed,  such  a  Society  could  not  long  exist.  Pro- 
fessing to  be  close  imitators  of  Christ,  they  are  far  from 
it.  "nie  Saviour  of  the  world  went  about  doing  good, 
exposing  Himself  to  the  ingratitude  of  those  He  served, 
and  at  last,  for  their  sakes,  suffering  an  ignominious  and 
painful  death ;  while  they,  who  pretend  to  take  Him  as 
a  pattern,  lead  an  easy  and  comfortable  life,  and  seem 
chiefly  occupied  in  adding  to  their  wordly  riches,  while 
their  charity  is  bounded  by  the  chain  of  hills  which  en- 
circle their  settlement.  That  such  a  Society  should  exist 
for  a  day,  in  the  present  intellectual  state  of  the  world,  is 
truly  astonishing;  but  "nil  admirari"  appears  to  be  the 
motto  of  common  sense.  The  Society  is  composed 
chiefly  of  ignorant  and  illiterate  people,  and  of  many  who 
have  been  disappointed  in  life,  and  have  thus  withdrawn 
themselves  from  the  rest  of  mankind,  unable  to  bear  up 
and  strive  against  the  adversities  of  their  lot  as  true 
Christians. 
The  temperature  of  the  water  at  the  wells  is  78°  Fah-^ 


904 


▲  SC&ALTERM's  rVRLOVOR. 


renheit ;  it  is  pleasant  to  the  taste,  and,  being  devoid  of 
,'  almost  every  medicinal  quality  or  saline  taste,  is  used  as 
common  beverage.    From  chemical  analysis,  two  quarts 
are  said  to  contain 

grain. 

Muriate  of  lime    .    ,    .    1.00. 

Muriate  of  soda    .    .     .    0.75. 

Sulphate  of  lime    ...     1.60. 

Carbonate  of  lime  .  .  0.67. 
It  boils  up  in  the  gardens  of  the  hotel  in  sufficient  quan* 
tity  to  supply  the  the  requisite  baths,  and  is  afterwards 
used  for  setting  in  motion  the  wheels  of  three  manu&c* 
tories.  I  was  much  amused  by  seeing  a  large,  party  of 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  fresh  arrivals,  assemble  round  the 
spring  one  evening,  tasting  the  water  and  passing  their 
opinion  upon  its  merits,  some  even  refusing  to  put  the 
glass  to  their  lips,  fearing  the  effects  of  a  draught,  when 
they  had  been  taking  plentiful  potions  of  the  same  at 
the  diiinler  table. 

The  evenings  were  usually  passed  in  dancing  except  on 
Saturday,  the  Sabbath  commencing  with  some  of  the  New 
I  Englanders  at  sunset  on  the  preceding  day.  The  band 
consisted  of  two  negroes  playmg  on  violins,  and  a  third 
upon  a  bass.  The  leader  of  the  sable  trio  (a  barber,  by  the 
bye,  composing  part  of  the  establishment  of  the  house) 
acted  as  a  kind  of  maitre  du  ballet,  crying  out  "  Ba> 
lanciey !" — "  tan  your  mtners !" — "  La's  shen  I"  and  other 
jargon,  utterly  unintelligible  even  to  those  who  were  ac- 

Suainted  with  the  figure  of  every  (quadrille.  The  ladies' 
ancinff  was  a  composition  of  walking,  running,  and  shuf* 
fling;  tne  gentlemen  acquitted  themselves  a«t0e//as  gen- 
tlemen generally  do.  I  overheard  one,  who  priued  him* 
self  a  good  deal  on  his  manner  of  twirling  round  the  room« 
say  that  he  had  "the  best  waltzing  master  in  Paris,  last 
winter." 

Amongst  other  resources  for  killing  time  at  the  springs, 
« nine-pins  bore  a  prominent  part.  I  accompanied  some 
gentlemen  to  the  alley  one  day  for  the  purposeof  playing, 
when,  our  number  on  each  side  being  unequal,  one  of  the 
party  (a  young  collegian  from  New-Haven)  invited  a 
gentlemanly'looking  man  to  join  us  in  a  Tuboer;  he  con- 


k  CVBALTIRK't   FURIOVOU^ 


5M6 


oidof 
led  as 
luarts 


settled  to  play  a  single  game  after  some  hesitation,  and 
came  off  winner.  At  dinner  I  heard  a  voice  familiar  to 
my  ear  say,  from  behind  my  chair,  "  What  will  you  take. 
Sir  ?"  and  turning  round,  saw  our  friend  of  the  morning 
acting  in  capacity  of  waiter ;  he  certainly  possessed  a 
more  intellectual  countenance  than  two-thirds  of  the  peo- 
pie  at  table. 

Feeling  myself  sufficiently  recovered  to  undergo  the 
dislocating  motion  of  the  road,  and  all  my  acquaintance  at 
the  springs  taking  their  departure,  I  also  stepped  into  the 
coach  on  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  August,  and,  being  the 
only  passenger,  imagined  I  should  have  a  quiet,  easy  jour- 
ney, but  soon  found  myself  egregiously  mistaken.  There 
not  being  sufficient  weight  to  steady  the  vehicle  on  its 
clumsy  springs,  it  was  tossed  to  and  fro  like  a  ship  in  a 
gale  of  wind.  Wc  passed  through  the  small  manuiactur* 
ing  towns  of  Nassau  and  Alvia.  Some  singular  signs 
in  the  latter  attracted  my  attention ;  one  especially,  of 
"  Miss  Simms,  Tailoress,'*^  emblazoned  in  large  characters 
upon  a  board  against  the  house-side,  struck  me  as  a  novel 
mode  of  a  lady  earning  a  livelihood. 

The  entrance  to  the  city  of  Troy,  twenty-five  miles  from 
Lebanon,  through  an  excavated  rock,  which  forms  part 
of  the  classically-named  Mount  Ida,  is  exceedingly  pretty 
The  city,  containing  about  12,000  inhabitants,  occupie.s 
an  alluvial  plain  of  some  extent  between  the  mount  and 
the  Hudson  River.     Having  some  apare  time,  I  walked 
through  several  of  the  streets,  and  visited  the  Episcopal 
Church,  which  has  a  very  tasteful  Gothic  tower:  one  of 
the  prettiest  specimens  of  architecture  I  saw  in  the  Unit- 
ed States;  but  the  body  of  the  church,  not  being  built  in 
unison   with  it,  gives  the  edifice  the  air  of  a  piece  of 
patch-work      An  elegant  and  large  Court-house  was 
completed,  with  the  exception  of  its  portico,  in  a  street 
adjoining  the  church ;  but  it  bore  too  strong  a  resemblanoM 
to  the  United  States*  Banl'-  at  Philadelphia,  of  which   l 
had   since  seen  so    many  fac-similes,  to  have   many 
charms  for  me.    The  building  was  entirely  of  white  mar- 
ble, and  modelled  after  the  temple  of  Theseus  at  Athenn 
The  gallant  "  Trojans,"  as  the  inhabitants  call  themselves, 
were  partaking  of  the  New- York  panic,  and  leaving  th(i 

VOL.  I. — 8.  « 


206 


1   SVBALTBRN'S   rVRLOVOJI. 


eity  in  crowds,  on  account  of  few  cases  of  cholera  heing 
reported. 

The  river,  which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  is 
crossed  by  a  horse-feiry  to  the  village  of  Watervliet, 
where  "Mother  Ann"  originally  established  herself;  and 
a  few  miles  farther  the  road  passes  the  houses  of  some 
married  Shakers,  belonging  to  the  Niskayuna  settlement, 
three  miles  to  the   south-west.       From  this  place  to 
Schenectady  the  country  is  dull,   uninteresting  in  point 
of  scenery,  and  devoid  of  habitations ;  but  now,  having 
gained  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk  River,  a  rich  alluvial  soil 
presents  itself  There  is  but  little  worthy  of  notice  in  the 
town,  excepting  Union  College,  on  an  eminence  near  the 
road  from  Troy,  Only  two  large  buildings,  forming  part 
of  what  is  intended,  are  at  present  erected;   but  several 
more   are  to   be  immediately  added,  and,  the  adjoining 
grounds  being  spacious,  it  promises  to  become  a  pretty 
spot.     The  college  has  been  very  liberally  endowed  by 
the  State'to  the  amount  of  300,000  dollars,  and  the  num- 
ber of  students  at  this  time  is  about  200.     Dr.  Nott,  the 
President,  is  not  only  a  good  classical  scholar,  but  an  ex- 
cellent and  persevering  mechanic.     Some  of  his   inven- 
tions have  even  gained  a  considerable  name  in  England, 
amongst  which  is  an  improvement  in  hot  air  stoves  for 
heating  cathedrals  and  large  buildings.    He  has  expend- 
ed also  large  sums  of  money  in  experiments  upon  steam- 
vessels  ;  several  of  which  are  constructing  upon  \iis  plan 
of  having  twenty  small  boilers,  instead  of  two  or  four 
large  ones,  and  are  considered  safer  than  those  generally 
in  use,  and  equally  swift.     After  passing  two  hours  iti 
Schenectady,  I  entered  the  packet  boat  on  the  Erie  Ca- 
nal, and  proceeded  at  the  rate  of  four  miles  an  hour,  on 
a  line  parallel  with  the  Mohawk.     This  immense  work, 
which  connects  the  waters  of  the  Hudson  with  those  of 
Lake  Erie,  was  commenced  in  1817,  at  the  suggestion  of 
De  Witt  Clinton,  at  that  time  Governor  of  the  State  of 
New-York.     It  was  then  looked  upon  u3  a  visionary 
scheme,  and  called  in  derision  *'  Clinton's  big  ditch  ;"  yet, 
notwithstanding  considerable  opposition,  he  succeeded  in 
carrying  his  project  into  effect,  well  knowing  the  in- 
estimable benefiti  which  would  arise,  and  the  enormous 


A   >VBALTBRN^t   FVRLOVOH 


357 


Tevenae  which  would  accrue  to  the  State  from  its  con- 
struction. It  was  not,  however,  finished  until  eight  years 
after  its  commencement,  at  an  expense  of  a  million  and  a 
half  sterling ;  but  the  income  already  arising  from  it  is 
250,000/.  annually,  and,  in  four  years  hence,  the  stock 
will  be  redeemed.  It  is  363  miles  long,  40  feet  wide  at 
the  top,  28  at  the  bottom,  with  4  feet  depth  of  water,  and 
a  slight  inclination  of  half  an  inch  in  a  mile  from  the  lake, 
which  is  568  feet  higher  than  the  Hudson.  The  packet 
boats,  as  on  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal,  are  large 
and  well  furnished  with  excellent  sleeping  berths,  and  the 
charge  very  reasonable,  being  only  three  cents  (lifrf.)  per 
mile,  breakfast  and  dinner  being  provided  on  equally  mo- 
derate terms ;  so  that  the  travelling  is  rendered  more 
agreeable  and  almost  as  speedy  as  upon  the  rough  turn- 
pikes. 

I  varied  my  mode  of  travelling  by  leaving  the  boat 
sometimes  at  the  locks,  and  walking  on,  being  able  at  a 
moderate  pace  to  keep  a-head  of  it.  Upon  arriving  at  the 
first  lock,  we  found  more  than  twenty  boats  waiting  for 
their  turn  to  pass  through;  but  all  were  obliged  to  give 
way  to  our  vessel,  which,  paying  a  higher  toll,  claimed 
priority  of  passage.  The  legality  of  this  preference  did 
not.  however,  appear  to  be  at  all  comprehended  by  the  pas- 
sengers in  the  other  boats,  nor  did  they  submit  to  it  with- 
out murmuring,  thinking  (as  they  said)  that  all  boats 
"  were  alike  free  and  equal."  We  had  only  ten  passen- 
gers, although  there  was  ample  accommodation  for  forty. 
Having  walked  several  iniles  along  the  towing-path  dur- 
ing the  day,  I  was  in  a  sound  sleep  soon  afler  taking 
possession  of  the  berth  allotted  to  me.  The  locks  being 
90  feet  in  length  and  15  in  breadth,  and  the  boats  80  by 
14,  some  little  inconvenience  arises  to  those  people  who 
are  not  sound  sleepers,  from  the  impossibility  of  steering 
the  boat  to  sucii  a  nicety  as  to  avoid  strikmg  heavily 
against  the  walls.  We  experienced  an  hour's  delay  dur- 
ing the  night,  from  the  horses  of  a  vessel  a-head  of  us 
breaking  loose,  and  galloping  down  upoti  our  train  which, 
throwing  their  driver  head  foremost  into  the  canal,  follow- 
ed the  example  of  the  others  by  breaking  the  tow  rope  and 


M  . 


--■f  ;f  ,T!(f.-'JW4T''r  « 


'966 


A  svbaltirn's  WVRLOVOn, 


scampering  off,   leaving  the  man  rolling  about,   half 
stunned,  in  the  water. 

In  the  morning  we  had  a  dense  fog,  not  uncommon  on 
the  banks  of  the  Mohawk,  and  which,  as  is  frequently  the 
case  elsewhere,  wos  the  forerunner  of  a  very  hot  day. 
The  country  through  which  we  passed  was  pretty  well 
diversified  with  hills  and  rich  meadows  of  Indian  corn 
on  the  banks  of  the  stream,  and  the  farmers  were  every 
where  employed  in  reaping  or  cradling*  the  grain  on  the 
uplands.  As  the  canal  approaches  the  Little  Falls  of  the 
Mohawk,  fifty  miles  from  Schenectady,  the  scenery  im- 

E roves,  and  has  some  claims  to  the  picturesque.  I  had 
eard  so  much  in  praise  of  it  that  I  stepped  out  of  the 
boat  at  the  first  lock,  half  a  mile  from  the  village,  not  only 
for  the  purpose  of  viewing  but  of  sketching  some  of  thi» 
far-famed  scenery,  and  walked  past  it  all,  momentarily 
expecting  to  come  upon  something  excessively  grand  and 
aublime,  so  much  had  1  been  deceived  by  exaggerated 
description  !  Although  very  pretty,  no  part  of  it  can  vie 
with  Matlock  in  Derbyshire.  I'here  is  one  bend  in  the 
canal  which  winds  round  the  rocky  mount,  and  under 
•omo  dnrk,  bleak,  impending  crugs,  with  the  noisy  tor- 
rent of  the  Mohawk  washing  its  bnse,  and  the  spires  of 
the  village  churches  with  a  fine  aqueduct  visible  tli rough 
the  excavation,  which  would  form  a  pretty  skitch,  but 
nothing  to  warront  the  overdrawn  descriptions  given  me. 
Having  to  pasn  through  five  locks  in  succession,  we  had 
time  to  cross  the  aqueduct  to  the  village  on  the  opposite 
•ide  of  the  river,  y  ^ich  is  becoming  a  manufacturing  town 
of  some  importance,  from  the  great  water-nowerofibrded 
by  the  Falls.  Its  progress  anu  prosperity  nave  been  con- 
■idorably  retarded  for  some  years,  owing  the  most  valuable 
and  useful  ground  being  tfie  property  of  a  gentleman  in 
England,  wno  did  not  dispose  of  it  until  lost  year,  when 


♦  A  term  uwid  for  mowing  the  whent  with  a  scytho,  which  hn« 
five  nirnes  of  wood  proir.nliii^  from  th<>  •liafl,  ho  ns  to  form  it  frumo 
iiiiniW  to  a  pcrson'M  iliigora  nt  Ihebnrk  of  tlio  scythe:  tliis  cradle  re- 
tain* the  straw  nfior  it  is  out  in  tlic  snriiv  pf)Nition  ns  when  growing, 
which,  bfljng  thrown  on  the  ground  with  a  Jerk,  lies  with  all  the  eard 
in  one  direouon,  and  ready  ror  the  binder ;  long  practice  it  re(|ntr«<| 
to  uao  the  cradle  expertly. 


k  BVBALTfeRK^S   VVRLOUOH. 


iM 


it  was  purchased  by  a  company,  who  are  proceeding  ra- 
pidly in  the  construction  of  numerous  manufactories. 
Large  pieces  of  rock  in  the  river  here  present  a  singular 
appearance,  from  being  worn  perfectly  hollow  and  round 
like  a  caldron,  the  shell  or  rim,  as  it  were,  beinff  reduced 
in  many  parts  to  a  few  inches  in  thickness.  Other  rocks 
are  bored  through  in  circles  with  as  smooth  a  surface  as 
if  they  had  been  chiselled  or  worked  out  with  an  auger. 
These  effects  are  supposed  to  have  been  produced  by 
small  pebbles  having  lodged  in  an  orifice  in  the  rock, 
nnd  been  agitated  by  the  eddies  and  force  of  the  current, 
until  they  increasea  the  opening  sufficiently  to  admit  lar- 
ger stones,  which,  in  process  of  time,  formed  these  sin- 
gular excavations. 

From  the  Little  Falls,  the  canal  passes  through  Her- 
kimer or  German  Flats,  a  fine  rich  tract  of  country,  with 
farms  varying  from  150  to  200  acres,  at  about  100  dollars 
per  acre,  yielding  from  36  to  30  bushels  of  wheat,  or  from 
(K)  to  100  bushels  of  Indian  corn.  At  Frankfort,  a  few 
miles  further,  it  does  not  exceed  from  20  to  60  dollars, 
the  soil  appearing  rich  and  fertile,  but  in  a  poor  state  of 
cultivation.  The  farming  of  the  Dutch  on  the  Flats  forms 
a  striking  contrast  to  that  of  their  slovenly  neighbours. 
At  this  last  village,  '*tho  long  level"  commences,  the  canal 
runningadistaiiceof  sixty-nine  miles  to  the  town  of  Sy- 
racuse, without  a  single  intervening  lock. 

At  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  entered  Utica,  eighty 
miles  from  Schenectady,  having  been  twenty-two  hours 
on  our  journey,  and  stepped  from  thecnnal  into  the  United 
l^tates  hotel,  where  we  were  accommodated  with  excellent 


ro^ms 


^n 


/ 


tuo 


A  tUBALTlRir'*   rURLODOH. 


.      K. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Ohr  what  a  FM  wm  Uiere,  my  oountrymen. 

Shaupiaks. 


Ha  VINO  hired  one  of  the  four-wheeled  carriages  known 
at  Philadelphia  as  a  "  dearborn,"  in  the  eastern  States  as 
a  "carryall,  and  in  Utica  as  a  "wagon,"  a  friend  (Mr.  B.) 
and  myself  started  at  eight  o'clock  on  the  3d  of  August 
upon  an  excursion  to  the  Trenton  Falls.  The  road  being 
rough  and  mountainous,  and  the  day  excessiveiv  hot,  we 
pulled  up  at  a  small  tavern,  eight  miles  from  the  town, 
to  give  the  horse  some  water.  While  I  was  holding  the 
bucket,  mine  host  come  out,  and  after  looking  on  quietly 
for  some  time  without  tendering  his  assistance,  ne  ob- 
served that  we  "  had  better  let  the  beast  stand  in  the 
flhade  a  minute  or  two  until  it  became  cool,  and  then  it 
would  proceed  more  cleverly  on  the  journey."  I  under- 
»tood  him  immediately,  and,  determining  to  accept  the 
challenge,  led  the  horse  into  the  shade  of  the  house,  when 
the  following  conversation  ensued,  much  to  the  amuse- 
ment of  my  companion,  who  did  nut  at  first  comprehend 
our  host's  manoiuvre. 

Landlord.  "  You  are  from  the  southward,  I  guess." 

Myaelf.  "  No— from  Utica." 

"Aye,  but  you  don't  keep  there,  I  reckon." 

"  No,  in  the  southward."  > 

"Aye,  I  guessed  so;  but  whereabouts  ?" 

"  Oh  t  south  of  Wnshington," 

"Ah  I  pretty  sickly  there  now?" 

"  No,  pretty  smort." 

"  But  there's  tarnntion  little  travelling  now;  lost  (all 
(his  hero  road  was  quite  unpnssnble,  but  now  I  havebe«n 
fixing  it  mjrself,  expecting  company,  and  no  one  comes." 

*<  You  will  have  them  all  hoie  when  the  cholera  panio 
has  subsided  a  little." 

"  I  don't  know  that;  I  heard  a  gentleman,  who  had 
boon  in  the  south,  say  the  other  day  that  there  was  vtry 
liUlo  money  there  now;  the  southerners  wuuld'nt  carta 


A  •C*.ALTIlirS  rdRLOVOH. 


itii 


fig  for  the  cholera,  they'd  clear  out  tarnation  aoon  if  they 
had  plenty  of  money  to  spare ;  a'int  it  so  ?" 

I  had  now  put  one  foot  on  the  step  of  our  vehicle,  but 
mine  host  was  not  yet  satisfied,  so  he  followed  me  up 
with — "  But  you  are  going  to  the  west,  I  expect  9" 

"  Perhaps  we  may." 

"  Aye,  you  came  down  the  canal." 

••Yes." 

•'  That's  fine  travelling ;  that's  what  I  like ;  you  push 
along  80  slick,  there's  no  chance  of  getting  one's  neck 
broke  as  there  is  aboard  those  stages  on  the  rough  turn- 
pikes ;  if  the  boat  sinks,  one's  only  up  to  one's  knees  in 
water.     You'll  see  the  Foils?" 

•*  We  are  going  there  now ;  which  is  the  way  ?'*  So, 
receiving  the  necessary  directions,  we  wished  this 
true  specimen  of  tin  American  pot-house  keeper,  good 
morning,  und  drove  on,  subsequently  finding  his  parting 
words  propht'tic.  Though  the  Yankees  are  so  noto- 
riously uiquisitive,  yet  there  is  nothing  disrespectful  in 
their  mnnncr;  nor  did  I  «'ver  feel  annoyed  by  their  ask- 
ing such  pryini,' questions,  generally  leadinc"  them  "con- 
siderably "n  the  wrong  trail,"  as  they  woiilcl  say,  or  else, 
havincf  satisfied  them,  commencing  n  cross-examinotion, 
to  which  they  always  submitted  with  good  grace. 

AfU'V  a  pleasant  ride  of  fourteen  miles,  we  arrived  at 
tho  hotel,  a  short  distanco  from  the  village  of  Trenton, 
and  proceeded  immediately  to  view  the  Falls,  which  com- 
mence within  *-J()0  yiirds  of  the  hous«',  though  entirely 
concealed  from  it  by  n  thick  intervening  forest.  To  see 
them  to  advantage,  it  is  necessary  to  descend  a  rocky  prs- 
cipico  nearly  100  feet  perpendicular,  into  the  ravine  along 
wliich  the  «)urk  stream  winds  its  course.  Scarcely  any 
thing  can  be  conceived  more  grand  or  picturesque  than 
the  firi't  view  of  the  surrounding  objects  aAur  the  visitor 
has  gained  the  rocky,  and,  at  this  season,  dry  bed  of  the 
winter's  torrent.  I  have  seen  many  falls,  but  none  pos- 
sessing such  a  variety  of  scenery  or  differing  so  much  in 
tlie  formation  of  the  cataract  as  these;  nnd  of  their  sub> 
limity  hut  a  very  fiiint  idea  can  be  conveyed  from  descrip- 
tion. The  impetuous  rush  of  water  (luring  succossivt 
agss  has  worked  a  bed  for  itself  through  a  ridgo  of  limt - 


/) 


iiii 


k  IVBALTIRM's  fVRLOVOH 


atone  rocks,  which  extends  from  th«  Mohawk  to  the 
northward  as  &r  as  the  St.  Lawrence ;  but  in  several 
places  it  appears  to  have  encountered  a  reef  of  harder 
materials,  which  has  been  able  to  withstand  the  force  of 
the  torrent.  There  are  several  of  these  ledges,  occupying 
an  extent  of  about  two  miles,  over  which  the  stream  is 
precipitated.  Of  these  the  High  Falls  are  the  finest,  be- 
ing 100  feet  in  height,  including  a  small  intervening  slope, 
which  breaks  the  perpendicular  fall,  and,  dividing  it  into 
two  cataracts,  renders  it  more  picturesque  than  if  falling 
in  one  unbroken  sheet. 

The  Americans  possess  a  most  singular  taste  for 
marring  the  beauty  of  every  place  which  can  boast  of 
any  thing  like  scenery,  by  introducing  a  bar-room  into  the 
most  romantic  and  conspicuous  spot.  Consequently  there 
js  a  little  white,  painted-wooden  shanty  perched  upon  the 
very  brow  of  tlie  High  Fall,  from  which  all  kinds  of  li- 
quors are  distributed  to  the  Yankee  admirers  of  nature, 
after  they  have  undergone  the  overpowering  fatigue  of 
walking  400  yards  from  the  hotel.  It  proved  an  insur- 
mountable barrier  to  the  further  progress  of  a  large  party, 
who  had  flocked  round  me,  passing  the  most  candid  and 
unconcerned  opinions  possible  upon  my  efforts  at  delineat- 
ing the  scenery.  Numerous  fossil  organic  remains  arc 
visible  in  the  lofty  banks,  which  bound  the  ravine  ;  and 
the  formation  of  the  singular  holes  in  the  rocks,  similar 
to  those  at  the  Little  Falls  of  the  Mohawk,  is  here  seen 
actually  in  process.  Many  are  formed  by  the  backwater 
of  the  rapids.  One  called  the  "Rocky  Heart,"  from  its 
striking  resemblance  to  the  common  representation  of  the 
seat  of  life,  has  been  made  by  two  of  these  eddies.  The 
water  rushing  over  a  slight  mil  proceeds  on  its  course  for 
15  or  20  feet,  when  arriving  ot  a  narrow  pass,  the  bottom 
or  point  of  the  heart  as  it  were,  it  separates  in  the  centre, 
returning  back  to  the  Fall  on  each  side  of  the  river's  bed, 
and  hns  thus  washed  away  the  rock  into  a  circular  chasm. 
Adjoining  is  a  natural  well,  called  "Jacob's  Kettle,"  about 
«i.v  feet  deep,  and  three  in  diameter.  The  bottom  is  co- 
T«red  to  some  depth  with  round  pebbles,  which  hare  been 
deposited  there  during  the  floous,  and  been  employed  in 
forming  the  kettle. 


A  subaltern's  rVRtOUOH. 


318 


The  width  of  the  ravine,  through  which  the  stream  takes 
its  course,  varies  from  one  to  three  hundred  yards.  At 
the  lower  end,  where  the  bed  is  formed  of  a  smooth  level 
rock,  walking  is  as  safe  and  agreeable  as  upon  any  well* 
laid  {)avement:  but  at  the  upper  it  contracts  to  a  narrow 
pass,  and,  the  rocks  rising  in  a  smooth  perpendicular  mass, 
the  passage  is  rendered  rather  dangerous ;  and  few  people 
attempt  to  pass  the  Rocky  Heart,  the  path  not  exceeding 
six  inches  m  width,  the  water  being  of  a  pitchy  blackness, 
forty  feet  deep.  I  explored  to  the  next  point  beyond,  but, 
the  scenery  appearing  much  the  same,  1  thought  further 
risk  unnecessary,  especially  as  lu  rning  round  upon  so  small 
a  pivot  was  very  inconvenient  and  difficult.  The  West 
Canada  Creek,  after  emerging  from  this  ravine,  pursues 
its  course  some  miles  farther,  and  joins  the  Mohawk  at  the 
village  of  Herkimer. 

Having  passed  some  very  agreeable  hours  at  this  en- 
chantingspot,  we  again  stepped  intoourdenrborn,  carryall, 
or  wagon,  and,  turning  our  backs  upon  Trenton  ond  its 
delightful  sconn  y,  arrived  at  the  sinnmit  of  a  long  hill  five 
miles  from  Utica,  without  any  adventures,  or  incident, 
worth  recording.  Upon  gaining  this  height,  the  sun  was 
drawing  nigh  to  the  horizon,  and  casting  a  mellowed  tint 
over  the  extensive  landscape,  which  was  beautifully  inter- 
spersed with  all  the  requisites  to  form  an  attractive  scene. 
[  was  about  expressing  my  admiration,  when  seeing  the 
long  steep  descent  down  which  1,  as  whin,  was  to  guide 
our  vehicle,  my  thoughts  were  immediately  diverted  else- 
where, and  1  observed  (having  the  upset  at  Lebanon  upper* 
most  in  my  imaginatiun)  that  "  1  should  not  like  to  de- 
scend such  a  hill  in  a  heavy  coach,"  My  companion 
answering  that  "the  Americans desnised  dragclmmsand 
slippers,"  1  was  aboiu  to  exemplify  tne  truthof  his  remark 
by  giving  him  a  full  and  true  account  of  my  misfortimes 
the  preceding  week,  when  1  felt  the  carriage  pressed  too 
much  upon  tne  horse,  ond  ottempted  to  check  it,  but  in 
vain ;  for,  owing  to  some  accident  or  mistake  at  the  hotel, 
a  strap  upon  (he  collar  of  the  harness  had  given  away,  so 
that  the  horse,  unable  to  keep  the  carriage  oflf  its  legs,  b«* 
eame  frightened  and  set  off  at  full  gnljop,  kicking  most 
Tiolently,  to  the  imminent  dan^r  of  our  legs  Mr.  B.  lifted 


•/ 


314 


▲   SUBALTBRH's   VVRIOVOH. 


his  upon  the  seat  in  the  first  instance,  and  then,  wisely 
thinking  "  discretion  the  better  part  of  valour,"  lifted  hii 
whole  body  out  behind  (knocking  my  hat  over  my  eyes  in 
the  hurry  of  its  movements,)  but,  not  being  able  to  relin- 
quish his  hold  of  the  vehicle  immediately,  he  cut  up  the 
rough  road,  with  his  knees,  like  a  plough,  for  a  considerable 
distance;  or,  as  he  afterwards  mo  reclassically  compared  it, 
like  Hector  dragged  by  the  car  of  Achilles  round  the  walls 
of  Troy.     When  freed  from  his  additional  weight,  I  was 
carried  along  with  the  rapidity  of  a  whirlwind;  the  foot- 
board splintering  in  all  directions  from  the  incessant  bat- 
tering of  the  horse's  heels.     Abroad  deep  ditch  ran  upon 
either  side  of  the  road,  so,  perceiving  if  I  attempted  to 
overturn  my«eif  in  either  direction  I  should  be  clashed 
with  great  violence  upon  the  ground,  and  remembering  the 
cautious  advice  Phaeton  received  from  the  old  gentleman, 
his  father,  when  he  drove  the  fiery  car,  "medio  tutissimus 
iftis,"  I  kept  in  the  middle  of  the  road,  pulling  hard  upon 
the  ri'ins  to  prevent  the  horse  falling  down.     I  knew  that 
a  serious  obstacle  opposed  me  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  in  the 
shape  of  a  narrow  bridge  over  a  deep  and  broad  ravine, 
with  a  deep  stream,  where  I  might  even  meet  with  the  fate 
of  the  above  worthy  himself;  so  I  dashed  the  horse  at  a 
high  rail  and  fence  at  a  turn  of  the  road,  where  a  tempo- 
rary bridge  crossed  the  ditch.     He  seemed  to  compre- 
hend me ;  for  over  we  went,  after  a  vast  heaving  and  roU- 
in:,^  a  kind  of  tottering  doubt  whether  we  should  capsize 
or  not,  which  would  have  ejected  any  thorough  landsman 
from  his  seat.     The  strong  wall  brought  us  to  a  sudden 
«i»eck.     I  was  from  my  seat  in  an  instant,  at  the  head  of 
the  horse,  who  was  striving  to  scramble  over  it ;  but  he  soon 
desisted,  having,  like  myself,  had  quite  enough  of  such 
work  in  the  Inst  half  mile.  Mr.  B.  was  still  faraway,  peer- 
h\^  through  the  clouds  of  dust,  to  see  what  had  become  of 
me,  fearing  the  result  of  my  rapid  descent.    Ho  was  much 
aut  and  bruised,  as  was  the  horse  from  kicking  the  wagon, 
and  vice  vena.  I  alone  escaped  uninjured,  being  but  a  suf- 
ferer in  the  purse,  from  the  compensation  wo  were  obliged 
to  make  the  owner  of  the  steed  and  rehicle,  for  injuriei 
received,    In  my  case  the  names  of  the  two  places  "  Leba- 
non Shakers,"  and  *'  Trenton  Falls,"  are  incongruous ;  they 


A  subaltern's  fURldtOH/ 


315 


shbuld  be  the  "  Trenton  Shaken,'*  and  "  Lebanon  FaH$ ,-" 
as  such  I  shall  ever  remember  them,  and  with  them  th« 
recollection  of  my  shaking  in  the  wagon,  and  upsetting 
in  the  coach,  will  ahvays  be  associated. 

The  above  accident  detained  us  a  few  days  at  Utica, 
Mr.  B.  being  too  unwell  to  proceed  on  his  journey ;  but 
the  cause  could  scarcely  be  regretted,  since  we  had  the 
good  fortune  to  make  the  acquaintance  of  an  eminent 
barrister  residing  in  the  town,  who  had  been  one  of  our 
fellow-passengers  from  Schenectady,  and  from  whom  we 
received  much  kind  attention. 

The  town  or  city  of  Uticn,  as  I  believe  it  is  now  called, 
occupies  a  gentle  slope,  rising  to  the  west,  from  the  banks 
of  the  Mohawk,  and  until  the  commencement  of  the  canal 
was  an  inconsiderable  place,  with  a  population  of  about 
3000.     Since  the  completion  of  that  work,  it  has  aug- 
mented to  10,000  souls,  and  is  daily  on  the  increase.  The 
line  of  canal,  which  eight  years  since  was  on  the  outskirts, 
now  passes  directly  through  the  centre  of  the  city,  giving 
it  a  ploasing  appearance,  to  which  the  innumerable  wooden 
bridges  with  their  light  open  railing  greatly  contribute. 
Tlie  inhabitants  are  well  aware  of  its  rising  importance, 
piedictiug  already  that  the  State  Government  will  be  re- 
moved from  Albany,  ano  .Iiat  the  future  laws  will  emanate 
from  their  cnpitol,  whose  site  they  have  marked  out  in  i\ 
souare  at  the  upper  end  of  the  city,  on  a  rising  eminence, 
whence  its  dome  will  be  seen  by  tfie  surrounding  country 
for  forty  miles.     The  streets  are  also  laid  out  in  a  style 
befitting  the  capital  of  the  most  populous  State  in  the 
Union.     As  a  central  situation  it  is  more  convenient  than 
Albany,  which  is  on  the  veiy  confines  of  the  State,  and 
three  hundred  miles  from  the  inhabitants  of  the  western 
parts  of  it.     A  stranger,  seeing  no  manufactories  or  large 
mercantile  establishments  in  Utica,  finds  it  difhcult  to  ae> 
count  for  its  rapid  increase,  until  he  discovers  that  every 
stream  from  the  neighbouring  hills  is  covered  with  such 
speculations,  and  the  margin  of  every  creek  is  peopled. 
The  goods  being  transported  from  the  town,  it  derives 
all  the  benefit,  without  any  of  the  inconvcnienco,  arising 
from  numerous  manufactories. 

At  Whiteiborough,  in  the  ricinity  of  tbt  city,  is  the 


216 


▲  SUBALTERN'S   rURLOVOH. 


singular  but  laudable  "  Oneida  Institution  of  Science  and 
Industry,"  which,  similar  to  some  institutions  in  Swit- 
zerland, combines  learning  with  manual  labour.  It  was 
first  established  by  a  clergyman  in  bad  health,  who,  open- 
ing a  small  school  ten  years  since,  discovered  that,  by  the 
pupils'  working  for  a  few  hours  daily,  they  earned  suffi- 
cient money  to  defray  the  expense  of  their  education. 
Since  that  time  it  has  been  much  encouraged  and  had 
several  benefactors.  There  is  a  farm,  containing  upwards 
of  one  hundred  acres,  attached  to  it,  upon  which  the 
students  may  be  seen  working  for  three  or  four  hours 
daily;  and. two  years' produce  will  pay  their  board  for 
that  time.  It  is  principally  intended  for  those  designed 
for  the  Church,  but  some  are  aldo  educated  for  other  pro- 
fessions. The  merit  of  the  institution,  independently  of 
that  derived  from  the  system,  is,  that  young  men  of  ta- 
lent may  obtain  an  education  here  who  cannot  afford  to 
go  to  more  expensive  establishments.  Upon  the  whole, 
from  the  prevalence  of  mercantile  pursuits,  there  art-  but 
few  places  for  classical  education  in  the  States,  compar- 
ed with  England. 

On  Sunday,  the  6th  of  August,  we  attended  divine  ser- 
vice ut  the  Ddtch  Reformed  Protestant  Church,  the  min- 
ister of  which,  Mr.  Bcthune,  a  Scotch  gentleman,  is  in  high 
repute  as  ancloquent  and  a  powerful  preacher.  We  were 
much  pleased  with  his  manner  which  was  tliat  of  the  majo- 
rity of  American  ecclesiastics,  and  preferred  it  to  that  of  the 
English.  The  sermon  being  delivered  in  a  more  familiar 
and  colloquial  style,  and  with  great  earnestness  of  man- 
ner, was  well  calculated  to  rivet  the  attention  of  the  con- 
gregation. In  America  the  compact  is  between  the  con- 
gregation and  minister,  as  between  master  and  serva»'t,  or 
tradesman  and  customer,  so  long  as  they  agree  and  suit 
each  other.  The  clergyman's  salary  in  small  towns  is  ge- 
nerally IOOO,dollars  (210/.)  per  annum,  which  is  sufficient 
for  people  who  are  expected  to  debar  themselves  the  active 

{mrsuits  of  the  rest  oi  mankind.    But  in  cities  and  popu- 
ous  places,  where  the  duty  is  more  severe,  it  varies  from 
1600  to  8600,  which  is  raised  by  a  tax  upon  tbe  congre- 
gation, or  (as  in  New- York)  from  grants  of  land  nmde 
prior  to  the  Revolution.  In  a  Presbyterian  Church,  which 


k  SUBALTERN  8   FURLOUOM. 


217 


we  attended  in  the  afternoon,  the  pews  were  originally 
sold  at  280  each,  and  the  annual  tax  was  19  dollars  and 
60  cents,  or  4/.  sterling,  the  organist  and  leader  of  the 
orchestra  alone  receiving  small  salaries,  in  addition  to  the 
minister.  The  floor  of  this  church  was  on  an  inclined 
plane,  so  that  each  pew  was  more  elevated  than  the  one  in 
front,  the  pulpit  being  under  the  organ-loft  at  the  lower 
end  of  the  building.  After  service,  we  visited  the  Sun- 
day school  on  the  ground-ftoor  under  the  church,  where, 
from  the  minister  having  made  frequent  allusions  to 
"  Samuel  James  Mills,  the  Founder  of  Sabbath  Schools," 
we  expected  to  see  one  of  a  superior  order,  but  were  dis- 
appointed. There  seemed  great  room  for  improvement. 
The  school  consisted  of  about  180  boys,  and  a  voluntary 
teacher  to  each  class  of  six  or  eight  boys.  Before  we 
4pparted,  the  superintendant  (an  Editor  of  a  Newspaper) 
requested  us  to  address  the  children,  but  appeared  satisfied 
with  an  answer,  that  "  our  qualifications  were  not  in  that 
line."  For  my  own  part,  I  was  rather  at  a  loss  to  com- 
prehend his  meaning,  until  he  rose  and  delivered  a  long 
extempore  prayer  for  the  prosperity  of  the  school. 

The  State  of  New- York  has  a  permanent  school-fund, 
of  the  enormous  amount  of  a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars, 
which  originally  arose  from  the  sale  of  land  ;  and  the  pro- 
ceeds, being  laid  out  to  interest,  in  time  accumulated  to  so 
large  a  sum  that  the  annual  distribution  is  now  120,000 
dollars,  and  as  much  more  is  raised  in  the  State  by  contri- 
butions ;  so  that  nearly  a  quarter  of  a  million  is  yearly 
expended  by  this  one  State  in  promoting  knowledge 
amonffst  the  people,  very  few  of  wnom  have  not  received 
a  useful  education.  Connecticut  is  the  only  State  in  the 
Union  which  possesses  the  same  powerful  means:  its  fund 
arose  from  a  vague  charter  granted  by  the  King  of  Eng- 
land, soon  after  the  establishment  of  the  American  colo- 
nies, to  Lord  Say  and  Sele  and  Lord  Brook  in  1631,  by 
which  the  State  of  Connecticut  was  bounded,  east  by  the 
Naraganset  River,  south  by  Long  Island  Sound,  north  by 
Massachusetts,  and  extended  west  to  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
By  this  document  it  claimed  the  right  of  extending  iti 
rule  over  tracts  of  land  which  were  unexplored  at  the  time 
the  charter  was  granted,  and  which  included  a  consider- 

VOL.  I. — T. 


218 


A   subaltern's   FURLOUaH. 


able  portion  of  Pennsylvania  and  New- York.  These  tw6 
States  resisted  the  claim,  but  compromised  the  matter 
after  the  Rerolution,  by  obtaining  for  Connecticnt  the 
grant  of  certain  lands  in  Ohio,  which,  being  sold,  produced 
Uie  sum  of  1,200,000  dollars.  This  sum  was,  in  the  first 
instance^  to  be  appropriated  for  the  propagation  of  the 
Gospel,  but  subsequently  was  formed  into  a  school-fund ; 
and  thus  one  of  the  smallest  States  in  the  Union  distri- 
butes an  annual  sum  amongst  the  several  districts,  for  the 
support  of  education,  considerably  exceeding  the  State 
tax  on  the  inhabitants ;  and  the  most  singular  instance  is 
presented  of  a  Government,  after  all  its  expenses  have 
been  defrayed,  returning  to  the  citizens  more  than  the 
amount  they  have  been  taxed.  In  those  districts  which 
receive  assistance  from  this  fund,  it  is  required  that  the 
same  amount  should  be  raised  by  contribution.  New- 
York  imitated  Connecticut  in  adopting  the  same  system, 
and  ordaining  that  the  proceeds  of  all  unsold  or  unap- 
propriated lands  should  be  added  to  the  school-fund,  which 
will  increase  it  at  least  to  the  amount  of  another  million  of 
dollars.  In  Massachusetts  much  attention  is  paid  to  edu- 
cation, and  numerous  schools  are  established  throughout 
all  the  New-England  States,  the  necessary  fu^ids  being 
annually  raised  in  districts. 

On  the  6th  of  August  we  proceeded  on  our  journey 
through  New  Hartford,  a  small  village  four  miles  from 
Utica,  and  two  or  three  from  Hamilton  College,  incorpo- 
rated in  1821,  and  so  called  after  the  unfortunate  general. 
We  obtained  a  good  view  of  its  white  buildings,  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  rising  ground  above  the  village  of  Clinton. 
We  arrived  at  the  manufacturing  village  of  Manchester, 
nine  miles  from  Utica,  in  an  hour  and  ten  minutes,  being 
at  the  quickest  rate  we  had  yet  travelled  upon  American 
turnpikes,  and  accordingly  anticipated  a  continuation  of 
such  rapid  progress  ;  but  were  soon  undeceived,  for  the 
innkeeper,  not  expecting  the  mail  so  soon,  had  made  no 
preparations  for  breakfast,  and  three  quaiters  of  an  hoar 
elapsed  before  the  beefsteaks  and  coffee  made  their  appear- 
ance upon  the  table.  At  the  village  of  Oneida  Castle  we 
obtained  the  first  sight  of  some  Tuscarora  Indiani,  who 
were  standing  by  the  roadside,  wrapt  up  in  their  blankets. 


A  SUBALTERN  S  FURLOUOH. 


919 


though  a  burning  sun  was  shining,  looking  composedly, 
and  apparently  without  curiosity,  at  the  coach  as  it  whirled 
along.     There  was  an  extensive  settlement  of  log  huts 
with  an  Episcopal  Church  belonging  to  the  tribe,  on  a 
plain  half  a  mile  from  the  turnpike ;  and  a  circular  grove 
of  trees  where  their  councils  were  formerly  held,  and 
where  they  now  receive  their  annual  allowance  from  the 
State,  to  which  all  land  they  wish  to  dispose  of  must  be 
sold,  not  having  the  power  to  grant  a  title-deed  to  indivi- 
duals.    During  the  last  year,  fifty  of  the  tribe  with  their 
Episcopolian  Pastor,  a  man  of  liberal  education,  having 
sold  their  lands,  migrated  to  Green  Bay  on  Lake  Michigan. 
In  the  summer  season  their  time  is  employed  in  tilling 
the  ground  in  the  Reservation,  or  in  cutting  fuel  from 
the  extensive  forest  in  rear  of  their  village.     In  winter 
many  of  them  proceed  to  the  hunting  grounds  three  or 
four  hundred  miles  in  the  west,  where  they  collect  an 
abundance  of  skins,  from  the  sale  of  which  they  might 
realize  a  considerable  sum  of  monej'' ;  but  like  all  savages, 
or  semi-barbarians,  they  are  much  addicted  to  drink,  and 
barter  their  hardly-gained  spoils  for  a  small  quantity  of 
spirituous  liquors.     Twenty-five  miles  further,  at  Onon- 
daga Hollow,  where  there  is  a  tribe  of  that  name,  some 
women  came  up  to  the  conch,  offering  smpjl  articles  of 
their  own  manufacture  for  sale ;  they  could  speak  Ellg^lish 
Very  fluently,  as  can  most  of  the  Indians  in  those  tribes 
which  have  much  intercourse  with  the  "pale  faces."  The 
frontier  war,  which  had  but  lately  broken  out,  was  much 
deprecated  by  most  Americans,  who  asserted  that  their  Go- 
vernment wns  the  aggressor.  To  a  foreigner  the  American 
policy  towards  the  Indians  appears  most  cruel  and  inhu- 
man, every  possible  advantage  being  taken  to  dispossets 
the  rightful  owners  of  the  soil  of  their  property.     The 
Indian  character  is  noble  and  generous,  when  well  treated, 
but,  when  goaded  as  they  have  been  to  desperation,  it  is 
no  wonder  that  their  treatment  of  the  white  prisoners 
who  fall  into  their  hands  should  be  barbarous.     Ameri- 
cans have  been  found  to  retaliate  such  cruelties ;  and  the 
public  prints  at  this  time  were  filled  with  late  accounts  of 
another  "glorious  victory,"  in  which  some  volunteers  or 
militia  men  had  brought  three  scalps  into  camp  i 


^'- 


390 


▲   subaltern's   FURIOUOH. 


The  towns  of  Onondaga  Hollow  and  Onondaga  Hill, 
were  of  some  importance  during  the  late  war,  and  rivals  in 
growth  and  prosperity,  being  situated  in  a  grain  country, 
and  the  great  deposits  of  com  and  other  requisites  for  the 
aimy  on  the  frontier.  But,  alas !  their  day  has  gone  by ; 
the  sunshine  of  their  greatness  and  prosperity  is  for  ever 
overclouded.  The  houses  are  almost  tenantless,  and  of 
the  arsenal  nothing  is  left  but  the  name ;  the  canal,  run- 
ning within  three  miles,  gave  them  the  coupde  grace.  The 
sooner  the  road  is  diverted  from  the  present  route  the  more 
secure  will  the  lives  of  all  travellers  become;  for  of  all 
hills  to  ascend  or  descend  the  one  near  Onondaga  Hollow 
is  the  most  frightful.  The  extensive  and  fine  view  of 
Syracuse,  Salina  with  its  salt  vats,  Onondaga  Lake,  the 
town  of  Liverpool,  with  the  thickly  wooded  country  be- 
tween it  and  Oneida  Lake  in  the  extreme  distance, 
scarcely  compensate  for  the  risk  of  ascending  it  in  a 
heavy  coach. 

Our  progress  was  much  delayed  by  the  delivery  of 
the  mail  bag  at  every  small  hamlet  on  the  road.  The 
letters  in  A}nerica,  instead  of  being  put  into  separate 
bags  for  each  town  as  in  England,  are  carried  m  one 
huge  leather  case,  which  the  postmaster  is  allowed  to 
detain  ten  minutes,  so  that  he  may  pick  his  letters  out 
of  the  general  mass.  The  coachman  (there  being  no 
guard)  drives  up  to  the  office,  sometimes  a  small  tavern, 
and  throws  the  bag,  about  the  size  of  a  flour  sack,  upon 
the  hard  pavement,  or  muddy  road  as  most  convenient ;  it 
is  then  trailed  along  into  the  house,  and,  being  unlocked, 
the  lower  end  is  elevated,  and  out  tumble  all  the  letters, 
newspapers,  and  pamphlets,  in  a  heap  upon  the  floor. 
At  the  little  village  of  Lenox,  I  had  the  curiosity  to 
look  into  the  bar  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  the  mode  of 
sorting  letters,  and  witnessed  a  scene  which  could  never 
an«wer  in  any  other  country.  The  sorters  consisted  of  an 
old  grey-headed  man,  at  least  seventy  five  years  of  age, an 
old  woman,  "  with  spectacles  on  nose,"  the  old  gentle- 
man's equal  in  point  of  years,  and  a  great,  fat,  ruddy- 
faced  damsel  of  twenty-five,  backed  by  half  a  dozen  dirty 
little  barefooted  urchins,  who  were  all  down  upon  their 
knees  on  the  floor,  overhauling  the  huge  pile  befor9 


A  BiniALTERN  S   VURLOVOH. 


331 


it 


them,  flinging  thoie  letters  which  were  for  their  office 
into  a  distant  corner  of  the  room,  amongst  sundry  wet 
mops,  brushes,  molasses  barrels,  &c.;  and  those  which 
were  for  other  towns  on  our  route  were  again  bagged  in 
the  same  genile  style,  part  having  to  undergo  the  same 
process  every  fifth  mile  of  our  day's  journey,  excepting 
at  theofficoat  Onondaga  Hill,  where  the  postmaster,  be- 
ing an  attorney-at-law,  managed  to  detain  us  only  two 
minutes.  Many  of  these  offices,  costing  the  Government 
an  annual  sum  of  200 or  300  dollars  for  the  postmaster's 
salary,  do  not  receive  half  that  amount  in  letters  One 
man  assured  me  that  sometimes  his  month's  receipts  did 
not  exceed  six  dollars.  No  revenue  being  required 
from  the  post-office  establishment,  the  offices  in  large 
towns  furnish  funds  for  extending  the  mail  line  of  com- 
"munication.  The  surplus  funds  of  that  at  New- York 
are  enormous ;  but,  for  the  last  three  years,  the  expendi- 
ture upon  the  mails  has  much  exceeded  the  receipts 
throughout  the  States.  In  1790,  there  were  only  seventy- 
five  post-offices ;  at  this  time,  there  are  9000,  and  1 15,000 
miles  of  mail  communication ;  and  the  postage  on  letters 
from  Boston  to  Baltimore,  a  distance  little  under  400 
miles,  is  only  9d.  sterling. 

At  Marcellus  the  coach  stopped  at  an  inn,  of  which 
the  landlord  seemed  quite  an  original.  He  was  sitting 
in  the  bar,  without  his  coat  ant^  neckcloth,  reading  a 
newspaper,  and  his  feet  stretched  iialf  across  the  top  of 
iTio  table,  round  which  several  of  his  guests  were  enjoy- 
ing "  a  drink "  and  a  mouthful  of  the  Virginia  weed. 
Hearing  one  of  the  passetigoi.s  address  him  by  the  title 
of  "  Doctor,"  I  observed  "  he  was  an  elegant  specimen 
of  a  medical  man."  "  Ah,  but,"  said  my  fellow-travel- 
Ur,  "  he's  one  of  the  smartest  physicians  in  the  State, 
I'll  assure  you ;"  certainly  not  a  literal  description,  ac- 
cording to  the  English  acceptation  of  the  word  ;  for  he 
was  one  of  the  shabbiest-looking  men  I  ever  cast  eyes  on. 
At  sunset,  we  reached  the  beautiful  little  village  of  Ska- 
neateles,  situated  at  the  head  of  a  romantic  lake,  sixteen 
miles  long  and  nearly  two  wide,  of  the  same  nam& 
While  delayed  here  for  some  time  to  "  shift  hordes," 
and  for  the  mail  to  undergo  another  examination,  the 


S32 


A  aOBiXTBRll's  ruRLovoa. 


passengers  stood  on  th«  margin  of  the  lake,  admiring  its 
clear  and  unruffled  surface,  save  here  and  there  where  a 
slight  ripple  was  caused  by  the  slow  movement  of  one 
or  two  small  scullers,  as  they  changed  their  fishing 
berth  for  some  spot  which  woula  appear  more  favourable 
for  their  diversion.  Gardens  and  cultivated  fields  ex- 
tended to  the  water's  edge,  and  numerous  neat  white 
houses  scattered  about  upon  the  range  of  low  hills  orna- 
mented either  bank.  While  gazing  on  its  beauties,  a 
thunder-storm  suddenly  burst  over  us,  with  a  heavy 
squall  of  wind ;  and  ere  we  could  regain  the  coach  the 
wnole  scene  was  changed.  The  lake  was  now  perfectly 
black,  and  its  disturbed  surface  with  a  small  and  troubled 
ripple,  occasioned  by  the  violent  gust,  formed  a  strong  and 
somewhat  unpleasing  contrast  to  its  late  placid  and  mild 
appearance. 

At  half-past  eight  we  arrived  at  the  American  hotel  in 
Auburn,  rejoiced  that  the  fatigues  of  the  day  were  over, 
having  had  scarcely  200  yards  of  level  ground  during 
the  last  twenty  miles.  Wo  had  passed,  too,  through  the 
strangest  medley  of  named  towns  imaginable.  It  ap- 
peared almost  as  if  the  founders  had  collected  them  from 
all  quarters  of  the  globe  indifferently,  discarding  many 
of  the  fine-sounding,  significant,  old  Indian  names,  and 
substituting  some  gleaned  from  ancient  Greece  or  Italy, 
interspersed  with  one  from  Cockney  land,  or  perhaps  a 
genuine  Yankceism.  The  following  is  the  correct 
order  in  which  we  saw  the  towns  during  our  journey 
of  this  day.  Utica,  New  Hartford,  Manchester,  Canes- 
tota,  Quality  Hill,  Chitteningo,  Manlius,  Jamesville, 
Onondaga,  Syracuse,  Liverpool,  MartoUus,  Skaneateles, 
Auburn. 


viro  or  VOL. 

1. 

■ 

'  . 

' 

1 

..   1  i 

\ 


LIBRARY  OF  SELECT  NOVELS. 


117  The  following  worka  are  printed  and  bound  nnifbnnljr,  and 
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